Wednesday, July 03, 2013

Double Twist with Vogue 1327



             A RTW Anne Klein with the twisted upper bodice (already sold out)

Anne Klein Dress, RTW promotion



                                               
                                   My pattern envelope of Vogue 1327.
Vogue 1327 Anne Klein

Pattern Description:
Lined dress has bias, pleated, twisted upper front bodice, semi-fitted bodice, front pleated skirt, invisible back zipper and vent.


I was misled by "easy" label on this pattern. This would be "easy" if the dress consisted of two or three pieces and with much fewer and less elaborate instructions. I hope you benefit from my "learn by doing" experience. Maybe my shortcuts and "goofs" are your gain as well.

I sewed a "12".



Jagged Edges, Vogue 1327 Anne Klein

Fabric Used:
Marc Jacobs houndstooth jersey that seemed to be lined with a lightweight and had a tendency to fray a little at the edges.
 

I am not certain about my dress looking like the one depicted on the pattern envelope because I used a printed fabric, and being not built like typical Vogue pattern models, I "fill" out the dress quite differently...

Instructions
I seemed to only use 20 of the 49 steps because I used a knit. For an "easy" pattern, this one seems quite extensive, in regards to lining the upper and lower bodice, lining the upper back and skirt portions, inserting a zipper, making the 13 little pleats below the waistline at the skirt front, binding the seams, finishing portions of the lining and hems by slip-stitching or hand-stitching, and making the lower back pleat at their skirt in conjunction with its lining. Steps 45-49 involve inserting a "lingerie strap" or "hanger strap". Although I followed less than half of the lengthy set of instructions, it is still not one of those "instant" or "quick gratification" projects.


Favorite and Not-So Favorite Features
I liked the twist front style with the "keyhole" or peek-a-boo front bodice. I had to really revert several times to the illustration showing the "double twist" of one side of the upper bodice. The lining of the upper bodice (in the same fabric) was done the same way. The upper bodice and its lining are stitched right sides together along the neckline (stopping at the "triangles" near the shoulder seams) and at the lower edge "between two marked circles" which designate what I call the "boundary points" or the start and stop of the upper part of the keyhole opening.


Upper Bodice, Vogue 1327 Anne Klein



Pinning the lower bodice to the upper bodice that had already been lined in the same fabric was tricky because the "twist" had a tendency to revert to its original position! To "hold" the twist or prevent it from unraveling, I pinned the shoulders together, and took my time to pin the upper and lower bodices together as well as the upper and lower bodices of the lining.

What I thought would be a "piece of cake" were forming those 13 front pleats at the skirt! During cutting, I cut out narrow triangles to designate the width of each pleat. This helped somewhat to avoid the "vanishing chalk marks" that occurs with fabric manipulation. Because they were very close together, it was easy to miss the upcoming or consecutive basted pleat during stitching. I had to stitch, stop, push the fabric forward, so as not to "miss" the next pinned pleat. I wanted the pleats to be secured prior to attaching it to the bodice. 



It was somewhat of a challenge for my fabric of the skirt portion of my dress to pleat according to these line segments and circles. The pleats are very close together and it would have been wiser to "gather" from one point to another.


 Pleat Mark-It



Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
*My typical 3/4" petite adjustment at the waist and my upper narrow back adjustment. Next time, I plan to omit this petite adjustment. The bodice would have worked out fine without it, especially in a woven.

*I omitted the back and skirt lining.

*I hemmed and top-stitched the back neckline and back armholes.

*I left the lower hem of the lining of the lower bodice detached from the front skirt.


 Hem, Vogue 1327 Anne Klein



* Since I was using a knit, I omitted the invisible zipper.

*I omitted the back pleat, which I would keep I were using a woven.



 Jagged Edges, Vogue 1327 Anne Klein




Jagged Edges with Vogue 1327, Anne  Klein





Future Plans/Recommendations
I would not sew this again in my immediate future. Although I recommend this pattern, is helpful to make a muslin or a "run-though" version to work out fitting and construction issues.

Lining the back in the same fabric would have made the dress look more polished. The flattering style and the fit precluded me from giving this pattern a "mediocre"rating. "Easy" is a misnomer for the sewing level of this pattern. Considering the labor intensity, "Average" would be more appropriate.



Solid and Checkered



21 comments:

  1. Love your version of this dress. I tried to buy the pattern some time ago and couldn't get it. Looks lovely on you.

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  2. Hi Heather - I have this pattern on my to do list later this year - it's gorgeous. Yes, I don't think, even without reading your blog, I would assume this to be easy. I think yio have done a wonderful job on making this dress, especially as you have had to adjust the pattern to fit - not what I like to do with tricky patterns. You've done a lovely job on making it all work :)

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    1. Thank you, Sarah! I am looking forward to see your version. :-)

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  3. Replies
    1. that's ok, nowadays, with kids saying yio, yio, yio...

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  4. Thanks for your thorough review, Heather. I'm intrigued by this dress, but it's good to know what I might be getting myself into! It definitely looks more toward Difficult than Easy to me. Your version looks great.

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  5. I agree, the work you put into this dress is nothing short of FABULOUS!

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  6. Your dress is beautiful. It's a classic style that you can wear year round, so all your hard work will definitely pay off.

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  7. Your dress is beautiful. It's a classic style that you can wear year round, so all your hard work will definitely pay off.

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  8. Very, very pretty! Nice job on the construction too - those twist ts get me every time ;)

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  9. What a *hot* dress - you look amazing in it! Thanks for a thorough review of the pattern. I wouldn't have even thought to do it in a knit, but the end result is great :-)

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  10. The keyhole is such a great detail on this dress! I love your choice of houndstooth. Thank you for the warning on those tiny pleats--gathering seems a lot easier for very similar effect, or maybe making fewer, larger pleats.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you, SS! Those pleats were a challenge.

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  11. Great review and you did an awesome job. The dress looks fantastic on you.

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