The Fifth Dimension with Butterick 5645

I am addicted to pattern Butterick 5645, view "D", with the split-sleeves. I recently sewed my fifth version of this top.

 

Things to be on the lookout for: excessive ease and long length.  For me, the longer length works due to being short-waisted. To compensate for the excessive ease, I sewed a medium instead of a large.

My fifth version in a "stretch jersey ITY knit cheetah aqua/white" from fabric.com (already sold out). For me, sewing with ITY knit can be either a success or a disappointment.  To stabilize the hems (back of neckline, edge of cowl neck before turning in the facing, sleeve edges, and lower edge of entire top), I ironed on a 1/2" wide strip of interfacing to the edge, folded and top-stitched.  I am glad my lower hem did not "catch the wave".

Fourth version, made from a polyester jersey remnant of Vogue 8451.  As in my earlier versions, I sewed an inch beyond the marked point for more stability and 1 1/2" from the lower edge of each sleeve before hemming for a "cold-shoulder" style, which is trending very much now.

Vogue 8451, short sleeved version, made two years ago:

Vogue 8451:




Now "back to Butterick 5465:  Due to fabric constraints, I sewed a center back seam and went one size smaller (from M to S). So it is a bit fitted than my other versions from this pattern.

Third version, made from a soft rayon woven with an "ikat" style print.  For my third version, I hand-stitched the ends of the split sleeve to prevent them from "flipping, flapping, and flopping" in various directions. This pattern seemed to be compatible with soft wovens, but not with fabrics such as cotton lawn and a slightly denser cotton woven that I used in my second version, which nearly became a "wadder".  I also did not fare successfully with a soft and lightweight rayon/(cotton?) blend knit that I used for my first version, which made the excess ease apparent. The only changes beyond my typical petite adjustment at the waist and narrowing of the upper back, was increasing the shoulder width another inch (to prevent more slippage and to reduce the chance of a bra strap peeping out) and to stitch the two ends of the sleeve together to prevent the sleeve hems from showing.

 

I enjoyed wearing my fifth version.  I made my typical adjustments: shortening 3/4" at the waist, narrowing the upper back 1 1/2" (3/4" from the upper center seam).  Since the fabric I used was a remnant of a previous project,  I shortened the front and the back of the sleeves by different amounts.  Since I was satisfied with the asymmetry (sleeve front is curved and the back sleeve is straight),  I did not bother changing the back sleeve to reflect the change used for the front sleeve.

My "shy" photographer in a RTW dress with mixed print. She's slowly drifting away from me sewing some outfits for her.  Forever 21 (now they have a girls' department) has trendy and low-cost ready-to-wear. I still would rather sew for her than for myself.  A child's sweet reaction to creating something personally made for him or her is very precious and endearing.

Getting a little shade on a very warm, sunny day.  Yesterday's temperature seemed higher than 75 degrees.