Friday, June 24, 2011

Moulin Ruched

Pattern Description:
Misses' knit tops with sleeve options and the folowing style options: a gathered front, a faux wrap, or a cross-over detail. I sewed view B, a faux wrap top with an asymmetrical twist formed by the looping of left and right overlay.

Pattern Sizing:
Misses 6-8-10-12-14. I sewed a 10 at the shoulders, a 12 at the armscye, and a 14 elsewhere. 

Fabric Used:
A  poly-lycra knit (as described) from fabric.com.  Due to its texture it felt more like a rayon knit.





Instructions
Overall the directions and illustrations were fine, except those for the front facing and facing for the back neckline (a small rectangular piece). I should have trusted my intuition and use a reliable method to finish the neckline.

I was able to succesfully create the asymmetrical twist with the two overlay pieces.

First version:

Honestly, I prefer my asymmetrical ruched (no overlays) knit top from a Burda WOF January 2009 pattern, #110:



"Penned" Photos
I borrowed my daughter's pen featuring penguin Badtz Maru (a Sanrio character) to "pen-point" the looping detail.

The seam on the right overlay is formed by joining the lower end and an edge with the matching notch and dots.


The left overlay is inserted through the loop of the right overlay.

The looped left and right overlay pieces as a whole is basted onto the front piece.

An asymmetrical twist top by Classiques Entier for $118, at Nordstroms.com

Lynn Ritchie Ambrosia knit top from Bloomingdale's, spring 2010, $108 



Likes/Dislikes of the Pattern
*I like the faux wrap style formed by the asymmetrical twist of the overlay pieces. 

*The fit of the top is satisfactory after my usual adjustments, but I thought that the overlay was constrictive or tight. Extending the length of each overlay by a reasonable amount would most likely "loosen" the "wrap". However, even if both overlays were slightly lengthened, then they would seem to "interrupt" or surpass the lower hem of the front of the top. It would seem to make sense to increase each overlay just past the loop, while keeping the length of each overlay intact. I welcome suggestions.

*Switching the overlays would hopefully de-emphasize one side of my bust and "balance" my asymmetric figure.

*What I am not to fond of are the front facing that nearly lines the entire front and the "awkward" back facing. As mentioned by PR reviewers Elizabeth Made This and MNBarb, the front facing would come in handy for sheer knits. I should have gone with my first intuition to either bind or topstitch the neckline. What would be the easiest way to bind a "V"-neck?

I did a search and found this:  A PDF tutorial for a V-Neck binding

Modifications/alterations:
*I performed my petite adjusments at the usual upper back and at the waistline.

*Added 1" to the lower edge.



I plan to use this pattern again, but without the overlays, especially after being now familiar with this view.  This pattern is a nice deal - a variety of looks from one envelope. 


Second version, July 3, 2011, without the overlays, and sleeves from view "E". I curved the "V" point or vertex to make an elongated "U".



Thursday, June 16, 2011

O-La-Dee O-La-Dah



A pattern from 1974: Misses' Jiffy (R) knit short front-wrap dress (sized for stretch knits only)...The front wrap dress with dropped shoulders features "V" shaped neckline and self fabric tie ends. V. 1 has tri-color braid trim. v. 2 has top-stitching trim.

Size 14, bust 36

Although I did not use them, the instructions were definitely easy to follow accompanied by helpful diagrams, and even easier without using the back facing and the lengthy front facing.




It has been two weeks that we watched the Beatles "Love" Cirque Du Soleil performance at the Mirage in Las Vegas. I still recall the colorful performances set to some memorable songs of the Beatles. Although "Ob La Di Ob La Da (1968)" was not on the playlist of the show (it would have fit in very well due to its story-telling lyrics), I thought I commemorate the fifth anniversary of the "L-O-VE" show with my neon "O"rings-printed wrap dress.

Fabric:
A French imported rayon/lycra knit from emmaonesock.com. This knit sewed like a dream. My neckline did not need any "extra treatment" (i.e. invisible elastic, stabilizers).



Favorite Features
* This is the easiest dress or one of the easiest garments (front pattern piece, back pattern piece) that I have sewn from my sewing experience especially when I omitted the facings and topstitched the front edges and the back neckline.

*Unlike a "very easy" current Vogue wrap dress that I originally intended to sew, this wrap dress did not consume 3 yards or more of fabric: approximately 2 1/4 yards in my case.



*I also liked that I did not need to adjust the neckline which surprisingly is a conservative one! There is nothing to dislike.


Alterations/modifiations:
* Replaced the front and back facings with topstitching along the back neckline and front edges.
* To preserve the pattern pieces (leaving them uncut). I traced them my alterations onto tissue paper.
* My usual petite adjusments at the upper back (3/4" and waist (1")



* Taking in an additional 1/2" seam starting at the upper center back and tapering to 0" above the waistline.

* I removed 4" from the original length of the dress to obtain the desired length as shown on the model.

* It was not necessary for me to lengthen the tie belt.



La La How The Life Sews On...
I plan to sew a few more with sleeve variations. I highly recommend this if you are able to find it online (one of those rare gems) or something very similar to it.


All the JIFFY patterns from Simplicity that I sewed with make some of those current "very easy" patterns seem "moderately easy" or even "moderately difficult", and they do indisuputably live up to the name. It is nice to occasionally receive a JIFFY sewing gratification!



A DKNY wrap dress with cap sleeves for $345
Saks Fifth Avenue link