Maddy Starbucks

70's flash and splash


70's floral glare


Shirt dresses in wild geometric printed fabric are coming in full force.

Tory Burch dress in interlock silk for $465 from Bloomingdale's.

I like shirt dresses, but ironically I have only two in my current wardrobe.




Pattern Description
Misses'/miss petite dress with sleeve variations.


Size
Misses' sizes, 4-6-8-10-12. I sewed a "12" for the entire dress, instead of the usual "14" at the bust, waist, and hips. Since there seemed to be more ease in the tummy area, I went down a size.





Fabric
Cotton in some atrociously bizarre geometric print from Fabric.com. It reminds me of coffee beans encased in teardrops. Just call me "Maddy Starbucks". I feel so "Carol Brady" going 70's full force in a dress with a flighty collar and bizarre printed fabric.



Directions
I did not have problems following them and occasionally strayed from their order of construction. For instance, I attached the sleeves to the bodice before the collar whereas Simplicity has vice-versa. I paid attention to the markings such as the circles at the corners of the front plackets and sleeve plackets and the pleats on the sleeves. I give credit to Simplicity for providing clearer directions to attach the plackets, in comparison to those for my Hot Patterns' Plain and Simple Iconic Shirtdress. For me, the tricky part was to sew the plackets (after crossing the left over the right) to the lower edge or simply closing the lowest gap of the placket. The bulk caused by the overlap of the placket edges made it somewhat of a challenge to sew a very short seam (approximately an inch) without a slight pucker. The sleeve plackets are attached the same way, but on a smaller scale.

I prefer theFearless placket construction because it looks more sleek.
I was worried that the dress started looking like a billowy house dress or night shirt. Once I added the sleeves and collar, the dress started having some form and character.


Favorite Features
*Shirt dress style

*Retro-styled collar. I you are not a fan of "big" collars, you might want to trim the edges to a wearable width.

*Collar construction
I liked the idea of attaching the collar to the inside instead of on the outside. Then the collar is flipped to the outside and topstitched to the neckline. I recall a similar method I used to construct a 1950's blouse. This leaves a sleeker and cleaner finish from the inside of the neckline leading to the top lapel of the upper front facing, and no erratic topstitching on the neckline seam on the outside.


Not-so-favorite Features
*Overestimate of the fabric yardage requirements for certain parts of the dress.

I actually used less than fabric than what was mentioned on the back of the envelope, typical of many who sewed with Project Runway-inspired patterns. I used less fabric for the entire dress than the sum I calculated from the estimated yardages. I did not think that the sleeves and cuffs would take more than a yard of fabric and the rest and the dress (front, back, yoke), more than 2 yards of fabric.

Modifications/Alterations
*I shortened the upper yoke 3/4". I should have gone with my instinct to take out the length from the gathered back below the yoke, hopefully to also eliminate the ripples due to extra ease.

*1" petite adjustment

*Removed 1'' from the lower edge of the dress.

*I was not sure if I threw away or misplaced the cuff piece. I re-drafted one (6" width, 13" length), eliminating the need for the button holes. I sewed the seam of the first cuff and the seam of the corresponding sleeve before sewing the cuff to the pleated edge of the sleeve and due to the small circumference, I had difficulty maneuvering the seam below the needle. For the second cuff and sleeve, I sewed the cuff to the sleeve before sewing their side seams. Then I took a short cut and sewed a button below each placket.



Conclusion
This is the second shirt dress I have sewn during the past year and plan to sew more because I actually miss wearing shirt dresses (an incentive to wear long boots). I might shorten the pattern to a top and sew a short-sleeved version. I was hesitant to use this pattern due to the impression of creating a voluminous piece. This has now become a "why-didn't-I-sew-this-sooner" item.

If you have this pattern and have not tried it yet, give this one a chance.

Giving Many Thanks

Heather shared her Thanksgiving projects that she completed at school.

I was particularly intrigued by her "I am thankful" booklet.

As I turned each page, I encountered a cutout that represents one of the true wonders of our world.

"I am thankful for...

The good brown soil,
The green hills,
The tall trees,
The clear, clean water,
The tall purple mountains,
The bright warm sun,
The big blue sky."

Now I feel that I have not really been appreciative enough of the "natural" gifts whose importance transcends that of our technological gadgets.



I chuckled at one of "Heather's feathers": "Heather's thankful for squirrels". I asked Heather about this and she responded, "Because they are so cute." I added that they are not so cute when they are disease-ridden. We occasionally spotted a squirrel or two at the school where I work, especially when there are no students on campus. The little critters must reside somewhere on campus, certainly on the lookout for food. Heather has a high appreciation for nature and its inhabitants.




Here's one of my favorite songs that so nicely expresses my gratitude and thanks for the generosity of others...

la la la la la la la la la.................


You've been so kind and generous, I don't know how you keep on giving
For your kindness I'm in debt to you
For your selflessness, my admiration
For everything you've done, you know I'm bound, I'm bound to
thank you for it....

la la la la la la la la la ...........................


You've been so kind and generous, I don't know how you keep on giving
For your kindness I'm in debt to you
And I never could have come this far without you
For everything you've done, you know I'm bound, I'm bound to
thank you for it....

Na Na na na na na na na na na
na na na na na na na na na na


Oh, I want to thank you for so many gifts you gave with love and tenderness,
I wanna thank you
I want to thank you for your generosity, the love and the honesty that you gave me
I want to thank you, show my gratitude, my love and my respect for you,
I wanna thank you

Oh I want to thank you, thank you, thank you,
thank you, thank you, thank you...

(by Natalie Merchant)

Many thanks to you!

Happy Thanksgiving!

Star Spangled Manner

I discovered on-line this earlier last year, a Banana Republic silk geometric blouse for $69.50.




Here's Talbot's top in a solid:

The version of my pattern envelope.


Another version of the pattern envelope.


Pattern Description:
Blouses with front bow, front and back vertical fronts, buttoned front, and sleeve variations.

Pattern Sizing:
Misses' 8-18. I sewed a "12" at the shoulders and sleeves, tapering to a "16" for the first version and a "14" for the second version.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
They were fine. The only thing I made a note of was to exercise caution in attaching the front facing (which I used in my second version), especially at the top end, where the bow started. I should have made the top little seam 1/8" wider, leading into the collar, where the raw edge is turned under and hand-stitched or topstitched.


Favorite Features
*Bow
*Vertical darts for shaping
*Sleeve variations
*Relatively easy to sew

Slight dislikes
* The neckline is low, but fortunately as mentioned by the other reviewers, the bow makes the neckline modest, by covering up the lowest portion.

*The bow can be bulky depending on the fabric used.

*More noticeable on my second version than on my first, some bunching above the bust. I might have cut the "12" instead of the "14" or took in the bust darts more than I should. The model wearing the fuscia top is experiencing a tad of it.


Fabric Used:

First version in printed cotton left over from Heather's patriotic dress.




Heather's patriotic dress that I made last year from McCall's 5308. Now in first grade, Heather just learned several patriotic songs and has been singing them a lot around the house (America, Grand Old Flag) with Star Spangled Banner, being her favorite, of course.

"Campaign" buttons from the back view.




Second version: Cotton from Fabric.com

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

First version
*Eliminated the center front seam

*Reinforced the the upper center front by creating a narrow 3/8" seam which will be covered by the bow when worn.

*I took out 2" in width of the bow for the first version, because I was using a double knit.


Second version
* 3/4" horizontal tuck to eliminate the slight "puff" in the upper back
center back seam. I made this alteration after my first version.

* I used the front facing for the button down portion

* In making my second version to a "14", I reduced the width of the darts and had to eliminate the front darts. My fabric had less ease than the one I used on my first version. I should have eliminated the center back seam.


Both versions
*Made a 3/4" petite adjustment


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes. I might try the longer sleeve version.

I realize the importance of creating a muslin version (in my case with "less serious" fabric) before making a very wearable outfit in more luxurious fabric. It took me years to realize what adjustments I needed to make something fit better after looking at things I have made with a critical eye. I still have a long way to go.

Conclusion:
Nice pattern to try, as a diversion from collared tops.

O say can you sew, by the dawn's early light...

Chasing Rainbows

I have been on a woven cotton sewing spree. I sewed this before my HP princess seamed shirt.




Pattern Description:
Misses' tunics and dresses

Pattern Sizing:
Misses' 10-22. I sewed a "12" at the shoulders and a "14" everwhere else.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, except for my sleeves.



Fabric Used
Another 100% cotton from Fabric.com. Those special deals advertised in their email newsletters are just too enticing...

Were the instructions easy to follow?
They were fine and I did not have problems with them. Some cf the construction details are reminiscent of my Kwik Sew 3062 scoop neck top in terms of the the slight gathers below the front bodice and the bias skirt. The back of Kwik Sew 3062, however, is cut as one piece.

The only tricky part for me was to attach the front band. If I were not careful, it would have been a front facing. I made sure I attach the notched edge to the front edge of the bodice, right sides together. I did not have any problems attaching the front and back facing. After turning the facings to the inside, I handstitched the edges to the inside seams, instead of stitching in the ditch to avoid misaligned stitches to show on the outside.

Adjusting the crossover portion of the neckline might have caused the notches to not to line up precisely when attaching the skirt portion. I aligned the bodice and skirt at the side seams and made very minor adjustments in the gathers at the lower edges of the bodice before sewing the bodice and skirt together. I did not encounter the skirt stretching that was cut on the bias. I can easily imagine having issues with fabric that are usually tricky to deal with. Wendlesue's review addresses this issue very well.

Favorite Features
*Top/dress options
*Sleeve options
*V-neck or buttoned front options
*Slight gathering below the shoulders and below the bust.

Not-so-favorite Features

* Potentially revealing neckline.
To avoid undergarments from showing or simply a free peep show, I made sure that I crossed the right side of the bodice over the left at a suitable point. I tried the bodice and pinned the cross-over several times, making sure I achieved a comfortable fit and an acceptable neckline, before basting it in place.

*Bias skirt, especially if it is fitted, below the bodice is not flattering on me due to potentialy revealing things that I like to be hidden, like the non-muscular portions of my abs, if you know what I mean.


Fabric Used:
Cotton from Fabric.com

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
*1" petite adjustment

*3/4" horizontal tuck in the back, 3" below the shoulder seam

*Due to fabric constraints, I made short sleeves, gathered the lower edges, and attached bands (right or visible side of band to wrong side of sleeve) that were originally cut from the cuffs for the long sleeves with added length of 1 1/4". Then I turned the cuff to the outside, pressed it in half, pressed under the raw edge and topstitched 1/8" from the edge.

*I thought the top was unproportionately long for me. I shortened the skirt portion 2".

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, it is not a difficult top to show. I spent most of the time handstitching the band's facing to the inside.

Conclusion
This is a versatile and stylish top that can be suitable for various occasions. I can also easily envision it in a knit.

Crush Hour Traffic

I was in an "Orange Colored Sky" mood when I made this shirt. Adorable Natalie Gauci from Australian Idol Season 5, singing the Nat King cole classic. I like her voice and also her outfit, especially that skirt...


Pattern Description:
Princess seamed top with collar and lapel with sleeve variations.



Here's HotPatterns' narrative description:
The basic, go-anywhere, wear with anything shirt, designed for shirting weight cottons, crisp silks or soft rayons, or any shirt-weight fabric you wish! Fitted, single-breasted shirt has Princess seams front & back, a classic collar & rever, and finishes at the high hip. Shirt features a choice of three sleeve lengths: full length with a classic shirt cuff, as well as 3/4 length or short sleeve, both finished with a deep hem. Wear this versatile shirt with your favorite pants or skirt for a slick, classic look...it’s perfect for school, college, work, interviews, and any time you need to look your polished best.

Pattern Sizing:
Misses' multisized: 6-26 I sewed a "12" at the shoulders, tapering to a "14" at the bust and hips. I should have gone with my original instinct and sewed a "12".

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
At the princess seams, yes. Otherwise, my top does not seem to come from this pattern as illustrated on its envelope.


It more closely resembled a top (a 1969 McCall's pattern) I made three years ago with a wild collar.



Fabric Used
"Zazu Chandelier Lace Persimmon" in 100% cotton from Fabric.com (sold out) that I purchased just before Halloween, last month. I was surprised that for $2.4/yd, I received really quality fabric. I paid just under $5 for 2 1/2 yards (50% off the original and an additional 30% with a special online code).

Were the instructions easy to follow?
They were adequate. The diagrams are in my opinion, are not very helpful and seem to serve as prompts, or symbols of the actual steps. Because HP's presentation of the methods such as creating and finishing the sleeve vent and creating and attaching a collar are vague, I recommend referring to sewing reference books, online tutorials, or even directions from a Big 4 pattern or a Kwik Sew.

Thanks to Rebecca and Karla Kizer for mentioning about Pam's tutorials for the collar and lapel which are very helpful in constructing the collar and lapel, especially where they overlay. I wish I had these handy!

Collar tutorial, part one.

Collar tutorial, part two.



There is also no reference to what are wrong or correct sides of fabric and how to for instance, lay the front and back facing onto the rest of the shirt, prior to sewing them on (as one unit).

Something I do not recollect doing with wovens, is sewing the sleeves in flat, per the directions.


Favorite Features
* Princess seams

* Sleeve variations

* Whoa, my collar made me feel like Johanna Travolta ready to boogie beneath the glitter ball......Caution: the collar is larger than illustrated on the envelope.


Not-so-favorite Features
*The shirt is not fitted as I had anticipated. It seems to run a size or even nearly sizes larger on me. Even after taking in each seam 1/4", the shirt is still roomy.

* My collar and lapels are further apart (most likely my doing), whereas the illustrations show them nearly overlapping on the models.

* There was some extra pleating at the front between the upper sleeve and lapel due to excess fabric.

*The sleeve caps have excess ease.

*After I sewed the seams of the long sleeves, I felt overwhelmed by their size, which contradicted the more fitted look on the envelope. Along with the large collar and really bright orange, they threw the shirt out of balance. I felt the need to shorten them.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
*I wanted to eliminate the drag lines on the sides when I wore my Deco Vibe Tango shirt. I suspect they were visible because I did not make my needed adjustments.

* I made a 3/4" horizontal tuck on the side and center back pattern pieces to eliminate the familiar little ripples and/or puffiness in the upper back.

*I made a 1" petite adjustment to all pieces. However, I added 3/4" to the length to also accommodate for the lower hem. According to HP's description, the shirt is hip level and I like mine a little below that. If you have a longer torso, beware the length, especially if you like to wear your tops below hip level.

*I reduced the collar 1/4" along the edges.

*I took in the sleeve sleeve caps a maximum of 1/2".

* I shortened the sleeves and still I was not satisfied with the way the sleeves jutted out, making me look like I was ready to go bowling, retro style. To simultaneously balance the entire look of the shirt due to the the roominess at the waist and hips, and to avoid the "retro bowler" sleeve look, I added an elastic casing (5/8" hem) and elastic (1/4" wide, cut two inches longer than the circumference at my upper arm and adjusted) at the sleeve hem.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I am not sure if I would sew it again. I had high hopes for it. Then I created a little temporary belt from the remaining fabric and liked it much better. If you have or intend to purchase this pattern, I definitely recommend making a muslin or wearable muslin before delving into scrumptious fabric.

Conclusion:
It was really not a difficult top to sew, although it was not "Minute Made", but more like 5-6 Hours Made.

Cute, clever, and entertaining clip from The Nat King Cole Show, 1957. Betty Hutton and Nat King Cole's sing each other's song, especially Orange Colored Sky and more when they later appear on stage (even opera!). Today's shows do not compare to this.

Corda Roy

Pattern Description:
Misses' tops and skirts.

Pattern Sizing:
A(6-8-10-12) B(14-16-18-20). I sewed a "12'. I usually sew a "12" at the shoulders, tapering to a "14" at the bust and hips. I was surprised to find that the "12" was somewhat roomy at the bust and the upper back. The model on the envelope at the right encountered some issue with her bra nearly peeping out.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes! The instructions were well written and the illustrations alongside them were adequately clear for sewists like myself to rely on them almost completely.



Favorite Features
* I like the two vertical darts on each front and the four on the back, which give the top a flattering silhouette on my figure.

*I like the scoop neck

* I like the fact that it is easy to sew.

* The retro 40's/late 80's/early 90's look. I remember having a favorite top with similar styling in the early 90's.


Not-so-favorite features
* I would feel more comfortable if the neckline was a tad higher. If I wore this to work, I would definitely wear a tank underneath, just in case.

* Due to a combination of the material I was using and other factors, it was somewhat of a challenge to get the neckline to stay flat so that the facing would not show. Understitching was necessary per the instructions.

*It was a challenge to create the pleat at sleeve caps between the two markings, again due to the material I was working with. I hand gathered the top edge and hand basted the sleeves to the armscye, before machine stitching.


Fabric Used:
Stretch corduroy from Fabrics.com


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
* Omitted the pleat at the lower edge of the sleeve due to a possibility that it be too fitted for me.

*Ignored the pleat (between two circles ) on the sleeve cap, and the other above the lower hem of the sleeve

*I sewed the facing to the wrong side of the sleeve (correct side of facing to wrong side of sleeve edge) and topstitched the sleeve facing to the visible side, to avoid hand stitching the facing from the inside.

* I used four nearly transparent buttons.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Maybe, after a few adjustments, and with different fabric. The one I used made this suitable for a shirt/jacket.

Conclusion:
This is actually the first piece that I sewed with a Butterick's See and Sew. I did not find the pattern much easier than Butterick's "very easy" pattern. However, the directions are easy to follow and nicely written.