Saturday, June 28, 2014

Mc-Cowl's 6963 Tops and A Fair-y Good Day

Calvin Klein's Colorful Cowls
(Now say that more quickly)

Colorful Calvin Klein Cowls



McCall's 6963:  Close-fitting, pullover tops have draped front neckline variations (high or low cowl), narrow hem on back neckline and stitched hems. A: armhole bands.

mccalls6963


Size: Misses: 8-10-12-14-16. I sewed a 12 at the shoulders, neckline, and armscyes tapering to a 14 elsewhere.  

Fabric Previous versions: rayon jersey knit from fabric.com 

Third version: Polyester/lycra blend from a local Yardage Town.

The drape of the neckline varies with the fluidity of the knit.


 Mc-Cowl

Heather and I (wearing the third version of this McCall's pattern) at one of the exhibits at the Del Mar/San Diego County Fair. This year's theme is "The Fab Fair".

 Fab Fashions


Full exhibit without human models displaying "prize-winning"  handmade clothing
Fab Fashions


Two of my favorite Beatles tribute quilts that we saw in the same exhibit hall: Beatles Tribute Quilt  

 Beatles Tribute Quilt

Favorite/Not-so Favorite Features of McCall's 6963:
  My favorite features are the options for the two levels of drape and sleeve lengths (sleeveless, short sleeve, long sleeve). My not-so-favorite feature is after my typical adjustments in my first version, the top required more adjustments. In other words, there was still extra fabric in the length that would work better with a longer torso.

Here is my second version after my disappointment with my original (in rayon jersey animal print which fits somebody I know perfectly in such a way that it complements her longer torso.) . The sleeves were borrowed from McCall's 6884's wrap dresses.  I wish I had used the short sleeves that came with this cowl neckline pattern instead.  They would have seemed to create an aesthetic balance with the rest of the top.  After I decreased the length another inch at the front and back, I was still not satisfied with the results. More fabric needed to accommodate my bust (my bust consists of two different size cups). Yup, I agree with this pattern being form-fitting per the description.

Black and White

 
 Directions: The first 3 pages are devoted to tissue-fitting the pattern for the most common adjustments (at the marked alteration lines): broad back, high round back, low round back, full bust, full hips, sway/flat back, forward shoulder, and full arms. The sewing directions seem user- friendly like those found in a typical Kwik Sew pattern: each step is supplied with a diagram. For instance, in step #8, page 5, "Turn front self facing to outside along foldline (over back), matching notches. Stitch entire shoulder seam..." is made more clear with the diagram showing the placement of the front facing with respect to the shoulder seam and the back neckline.


Modifications/Alterations: For my third version, while keeping the draped neckline of this pattern intact, I redrafted the front and back pieces using my already altered Sewaholic Renfrew for below the armscyes.


Fair-y Good Day

Conclusion: I like the draft of the neckline, but more alterations need to be done to achieve my desired fit. The pattern is very helpful in terms of addressing and detailing common alterations. I did not want to reinvent something if I have something such as the Renfrew that already works for me.

Here are two of those rare moments when my husband poses for the camera.  He really is camera-shy.  What is really cool is that he does not mind my sewing addiction.  He encouraged (more like prodded) me to take a look at the SEWING machines available at a vendor's booth.

 Fair-y Good Food




Pair of Smiles

Wednesday, June 11, 2014

It's a Wrap with McCall's 6884

Three dresses in wrap-tivity
Wrap-ture


Two styles of wrap dresses, both by Maggy London
 Maggy London Wrap Dresses



Include dress and sleeve length options, we have McCall's 6884

McCall's 6884 Dresses



Pattern Description:
Close-fitting, pullover, mock wrap dresses have right front variations, tie ends and narrow hems.  I sewed view "B", the dress with the "wrap-around" tie.


Pattern Sizing:
Misses; 6-8-10-12-14.  I sewed a "12" at the shoulders, and a "14" elsewhere.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, except I made my dress a true instead of a faux wrap dress.


Fabric Used:
ITY knit from fabric.com

 Dot Your Ties


Instructions
They were separated by the two pairs of views, A/B, and C/D, and there was no need to muddle through the steps to see what are common to all views.

The ones for views "A" and "B" were satisfactory, paying attention to basting the front sides after the "crossover" (right front over left front) while not getting the back piece involved (the diagram adequately shows this step.   After reinforcing and stitching the shoulder seams, stitching a 5/8" narrow hem along the front edges (below a "square"), and forming the two tie belts,  I digressed from the directions to create a true wrap dress.  Hence, I avoided basting the fronts (right front over left front while both are facing upwards) together at the seam allowances and stitching them onto the back piece, right sides of the fabric together.


Likes/Dislikes
I was originally drawn to the side wrap view, but ended up making a true wrap dress, with the ties encircling the waist and meeting at the front.  Wrap dresses seem to flatter every figure type. I agree with other fellow PR'ers of this pattern that the waist tie placement markings are high, even for me being short-waisted.  I plan to place the markings additional inch below the original ones for my next dress.

The neckline seemed somewhat wide and low for me which prompted me to make adjustments.


 Dot Your Ties


Alterations/Modifications
*My typical narrowing of the upper back, 3/8" from the center back and my 1" petite adjustment at the waist.

*Instead of sewing the waist ties at the marked dots as specified on the pattern piece along the sides of the right and left fronts, I sewed a tie end, after turning in the raw ends, to each front, just above the narrow hem or the skirt of the dress. 

*On the right side seam, 1" below the lowest marking originally designated for the raw end of the tie belt, left a 1" opening to allow the end of the tie belt left front to pass through and encircle the back and then meet the tie end of the right front before securing a knot or bow.

*Raised the neckline 1" from the lower edge to 0" at the shoulders.

*To prevent gaposis, I bound the neckline with a bias strip cut in the same fabric 1 1/4" wide.  Starting from one end of the fabric,  I slightly stretched the strip as I pinned it to the neckline, right fabric side of strip to inside of dress. After cutting to an appropriate length, I turned the strip to the outside, folded the raw edge under over the seam allowance, pinned, and topstitched at the edge. I might have stretched the fabric strip a little more than I should, but at least I have the reassurance of modesty. 

Dot Your Ties


Conclusion:
Although I did not adhere to the directions of views A/B,  I still recommend this pattern due to its ease of construction, the style options, and has a potential to be a "go-to" wrap dress pattern.