Saturday, December 24, 2011

Holiday Wishes

We wish you a joyous, tranquil, and blessed Christmas/holiday season



and also one that is festive and bright,








"...And so I'm offering this simple phrase,
To kids from one to ninety-two,
Although it's been said many times, many ways,
Merry christmas
Merry christmas
Merry christmas to you"


From our sew-spicious minds to you, Merry Christmas and Season's Greetings to you!

Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Clover and Over

Here's my first "Amazing Fit" pattern by Simplicity that I recently sewed with.  The pattern comes with sleeve and collar variations.The front pieces also come in  A, B, C and D cups sizes.



I used a "10" at the shoulder seams, a "12" at the armscyes and sleeves, and a "14" elsewhere.



I used a printed cotton by Kaffe Fassett that I purchased from a local fabric store that recently went out of business.  The owner decided to retire and wanted more time to spend time with family and of course, to sew.



My other purchases on that day, which coincided with PR's 10th anniversary.  I received a 60% discount on the entire transaction!




My Simplicity 2151 blouse



Pattern Instructions 
The procedures and diagrams to construct the blouse are clear. The directions for achieving an "amazing fit" are in a "fit as you sew" format which is helpful for a beginning sewist or any sewist who wants to be involved in a fitting process. There are "opportunities" to check for the fit at the front, back, and sides and make adjustments as necessary from the basted seams (1" allowance). The sleeves also needed to be adjusted accordingly. However, there are no "tips" to alter a pattern piece, based on your fitting adjustments.


Favorite/Not-so favorite Features of Pattern
I like the "wing" collar, epaulets, princess seams at the front, and the pleated and buttoned sleeve cuffs. 

A "wing" collar shirt by Lafayette 148 New York for $228 at bluefly.com

A "Foxcroft" shirt at travelsmith.com, $74



I did not obtain an "Amazing Fit" immediately based on my typical adjustments to the pattern. In fact, I encountered a "dismay-zing" fit: extra ease at the waist, hips, and the back, necessitating more adjustments than my usual with shirts and blouses. I probably could have gone down a size to avoid spending additional time taking in the back darts and side seams.


Pattern alterations
* My standard 1" petite adjustment at the waistline

* Trimmed an excess of 1/4"-3/8" from the sleeve caps after easing and setting in the sleeves.

* I slightly lowered the first buttonhole from the original marking on the buttonhole guide and used five instead of six buttons.

*Omitted the side vents.


Recommendations
I probably would, now that I am familiar with this pattern. I recommend this shirt for its classic styling and despite the fitting to achieve the "amazing fit", it really is a straightforward shirt to sew. 



Conclusion:
It is a nice basic for any wardrobe.

Sunday, December 04, 2011

Don't Sleeve Me This Way

I made a second top from pattern #138B from the September 2011 issue of Burda Style, with a few modifications.


The sleeves are actually "poufier" than illustrated.

But not as voluminous as this Yves Saint Laurent cotton top.  Would you believe this off-shoulder top is $1,390 at SaksFifthAvenue.com? This is such a simple style!



My second version of the Burda Style sewing pattern. The fabric I used was an Amy Butler cotton from the "Lotus" collection.


I used an Amy Butler cotton from the "Lotus" collection.



My first version that I call my "Tool Time" top, printed with school supplies such as protractors, scissors, drafting compasses, and more. Original post for this blouse



Modifications from first version
(1) replace the button/buttonhole front (front facings) with a center seam

(2) create a keyhole opening/slit above the center seam, with the lower edge 3 1/2" below the edge of the neckline. I folded a narrow hem to the inside of the top and topstitched close to the edge.

(3) increase the shoulder width by adding 1 1/4" to the front shoulder tapering to an additional 3/8" at the armscye. I also added 1 1/4" to the back shoulder width from the neckline and re-drew the neckline (raising it slightly) to accommodate the additional width.




(4) use a drawstring for the entire neckline casing (per Burda's original directions) instead of an elastic with fabric ties at the ends

(5) decrease the width of the sleeves by a maximum of 1/2" at each side (and still the sleeves are "poufy")

I'll probably make another top sometime soon in a drapier fabric such as chiffon. 


An Alexander McQueen semi-sheer bohemian top with long sleeves gathered at the wrists. Saksfifthavenue.com, $1,440.



Even though the colors of this blouse do not complement my skin tone as well as deeper colors, I am satisfied with the overall style.