Crazy Eights

From 1965:





Pattern Description
From 1965: "Misses' Dress in Three Versions. Long waisted dress, with double-breasted bodice and five section skirt, may be sleeveless or have above-elbow length set-in sleeves. Notched shawl collar, cut in one with bodice fronts, is faced and interfaced. Skirt has pleat at left front in wrap-around effect. Dress with sleeves may have contrast skirt. I made the sleeveless version.

Size
Size 16, Bust 36"

Fabric
Cotton printed with rows and columns of ittle splattered stars. I spent $6 for 3 yds of fabric at W - M.

Directions
* The instructions and diagrams were overall good for advanced beginners and beyond. Only two or three diagrams needed more specific verbal directions so that a step would not be missed or misinterpreted.
* I was able to construct some parts with little or no instruction.
* Pieces have extensive markings: 5/8" seamlines, bodice darts (bust, two long ones in the front, under collar area, two long ones in the upper back), slash marks and reinforced stitching for the lapels
* The constuction of the front bodice along with the collar is similar to current shawl collar construction of tops or jackets.
- The left and right front pieces are sewn together, creating a center seam
- Below the center seam, the neck corners are reinforced before getting clipped or shashed. The edges formed are then sewn at the back shoulders of the back bodice piece.
* The slash marking at the front edge of the bodice are for creating the notches of the lapel.

Likes
* The overall style: the double breasted bodice, low waist, notched collar
* The bodice is also secured by eyes/hooks and snaps in addition to the buttons.
* The flattering elongated back darts


Dislikes
* The actual construction was more time consuming than I had anticipated. Those design sketches of what seemed like basic coat dresses on the pattern envelope were misleading!
* * The actual construction was more time consuming than I had anticipated. Those design sketches of what seemed like basic coat dresses on the pattern envelope were misleading!

* I was careless in following the instructions to attach the
back facing to the front facing (nearly skipped it!). Because I was doing my own thing, I attached the front facing to the neckline of the bodice and the rest of the facing to the right side of the dress. However, I was supposed to sew the back facing below the center seam and neckline of the front facing and its left and right edges to the seam shoulders of the front facing (before turning the entire front facing to the inside of the dress, and hence the right side of the back facing would land just below the neckline). Instead of ripping out stitches, I attached the back facing to the front facing after it was turned to the inside of the dress. I handstitched the bottom edge of the collar facing over the back facing.



Modifications
* Eliminated the front darts
* Used eight instead of six buttons (Aligning and adjusting the buttons to fit is easier said than done!)
* Although the instructions for bound buttonholes are useful, I used my machine's buttonhole feature.
* Larger lapels (I used a seam allowance smaller than 5/8")
* Eliminated the interfacing (fabric was firm enough)
* Maybe because I decreased the width of the back darts by 1/8", I discovered that the back panel of the skirt did not line up with the bottom edge of the back bodice because there was extra fabric. I cut the back panel of the skirt through the middle and added a center back seam at the back panel of the skirt. Actually the center back seam looked nice on the skirt!
* Shortened the length of the skirt by 4".


Conclusion
This dress would also look great in light woolens or a soft corduroy.

If I do make this again, I would skip making the skirt and convert the dress to a top.

I would not say that this 60's pattern is easy, but of moderate difficulty that requires a lot of time and attention to detail!

Paisley and Wine Puff

The drip droop sleeves with billowing sleeves are here!

From Newport News


I thought that was a nicer color than the "grape" I purchased. It wrinkles so easily!

McCall's haute couture version:



Update: Sept 27, 2007
Look at those puffy sleeves with banded bottoms:


Here's my second version:


First version:







Pattern Description
"Misses'/Miss Petite Shirts: Fitted shirt with front button closure has topstitched seams and sleeve variations." I sewed view B with the self fabric ties at the sleeve ends.

Pattern Sizing:
6-8-10-12-14 with McCall's "Made for You" bust cup measurements A/B, C, and D.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?
* They were adequate.

* I noticed that the cutting layout was for the "D" size. I wrote the A/B numbered patterns next to the corresponding to the front and side front. I read the entire set of directions for view B and highlighted the ones that belonged to "B" to ensure that I would not skip anything. There were steps common to all views that seemed to belong to a particular view due to the format.

* The side front and side back are first sewn together.

* The sleeves are gathered at the top and bottom edges, seams are sewn and the bands are sewn to the gathered edges.

* The sleeves are attached to the side fronts and side backs (forming the bottom edge of the armscye), right sides together, matching notches.

* The front of the shirt is sewn to the side front and the back to the side back. The top gathered edge of the sleeves are set in to the upper armscyes.

* I found that hand basting (I used to believe that pin basting is adequate) the seams together before machine stitching really helps to keep the sleeve gathers together.

* This time I had an easier time in putting together the collar. The written directions were a little more specific (compared to those I encountered in previous patterns I worked with) in how the collar band and the collar are sewn together. I found that for me the front facings were a little tricky in positioning and sewing onto the outer seams of the collar before turning them to the inside of the top. When I turned the front facings to the inside, they did not exactly match the original fold lines.

*Topstitching the upper seams of the shoulders and the princess seams really pulls the look together.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the princess seams! The pieces even lined up nicely at the princess seams! The blouse was really "fitted" for my own taste! I could have decreased each seam by 1/4". I also liked the fact the front bodice pattern accommodates the 4 cup sizes.

Fabric Used:
Paisley printed cotton from W-M for $2 per yard. I was able to make this blouse and a sundress for my daughter. What a deal!

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I used fewer buttons for the first version. The length of the blouse was fine without any adjustments. Since that was the case, the blouse on the envelope's model should have been higher on her due to her proportions!

For View B (the sleeves with ties)
I was surprised that the ties barely tied around my upper arms which are smaller for my proportions. I would add 2" to their length if I make this top the next time.

For View C (the banded sleeves)
The sleeves came out longer and a little larger than expected. But I ended up liking them anyway.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, in another fabric! Yes, I would recommend this pattern because of its timeless style, versatile sizing and that it is easy to work with!

Conclusion
This is absolutely a nice shirt pattern that can easily be a TNT pattern!


(Updated Sept. 23)

Knit Fit for Knit Wit....It's also Emmy Night!!!!

I find drape tops very flattering!










flickr link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/83461746@N00/1389641686/in/set-72157600382180795/

Simplicity View Finder:
http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=3682

Close up

Drape top from Neiman Marcus

Pattern Description:
Misses' knit tunic and tops. (That's all mentioned by Simplicity!)
There were six views. Views A and B are gathered at the top edge and have short gathered sleeves. Views C and D are also gathered at the top edge, have empire styling and long sleeves, with sleeves gathered at the top. When I first saw View C and D, images of the Gibson Girl and 1890's fashion come to mind! Views E and F have built in camisoles, draped fronts, and either 3/4 sleeves or long sleeves with elasticized wrists. I sewed View F which was shorter in length than View E.

Pattern Sizing:
Misses' 6-8-10-12-14

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, except the top seemed to have more drape in the illustrations.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, they were sufficient. This is definitely an easy pattern, but also easy enough for simple errors to happen (when rushing)! I had to make sure that I sewed the overlay's incorrect side to the right side of the fabric and aligned the points where the folded upper edge of the front overlay and the built-in tank top meet. I was somewhat surprised that I was a bit puzzled by the somewhat vague directions and illustration to attach the back to the front of the top, right sides together. It would have been helpful to show that the back was really placed over the front overlay (before sewing the side seams), especially for somebody who has never sewn with overlays!

I used the method described to finish the neck and bottom by folding along a 5/8" stitch from the edge (making sure the stitching is not visible from the outside),tucking the raw edge under, and stitching. Finishing the neck edges and the hem probably would have been easier with a serger!


Pattern Description:
Misses' knit tunic and tops. (That's all mentioned by Simplicity!)
There were six views. Views A and B are gathered at the upper edge and have short gathered sleeves. Views C and D are also gathered at the upper edge, have empire styling and long sleeves, with sleeves gathered at the top. When I first saw View C and D, images of the Gibson Girl and 1890's fashion come to mind! Views E and F have built in camisoles, draped fronts, and either 3/4 sleeves or long sleeves with elasticized wrists. I sewed View F which was shorter in length than View E.

Pattern Sizing:
Misses' 6-8-10-12-14

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, except the top seemed to have more drape in the illustrations.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, they were sufficient. This is definitely an easy pattern, but also easy enough for simple errors to happen (when rushing)! I had to make sure that I sewed the overlay's incorrect side to the right side of the fabric and aligned the points where the folded upper edge of the front overlay and the built-in tank top meet. I was somewhat surprised that I was a bit puzzled by the somewhat vague directions and illustration to attach the back to the front of the top, right sides together. It would have been helpful to show that the back was really placed over the front overlay (before sewing the side seams), especially for somebody who has never sewn with overlays!

I used the method described to finish the neck and bottom by folding along a 5/8" stitch from the edge (making sure the stitching is not visible from the outside),tucking the raw edge under, and stitching. Finishing the neck edges and the hem probably would have been easier with a serger!


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I finally found a pattern that looked like one of my favorite RTW top that I purchased months ago. I liked the drape front and the built-in tank underneath and the fact the blouse is simple to make. The view I sewed consisted of only four pieces (the front, back, front overlay, and sleeve).


Fabric Used:
Mystery stretch/lycra/spandex fabric from Joann's clearance section.


Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I zigzagged the upper edge of the front overlay before folding it along the fold line. Other than that, I left the pattern as is. I did not encounter major fitting issues. If I were longer in the torso, I would definitely lengthen the entire blouse a little. I also found the armscye a little high. For those who have different proportions (I'm only 5'1" , short in the torso, arms and legs made for a woman who is 5'6", average weight), you might have to adjust accordingly. If I had broader shoulders and more muscle in the upper arms, I would have to alter the pattern so that I have would have more freedom of movement. The nature of the fabric would also have to be taken into account.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes! I might make a short sleeve version similar to my RTW top. The other views are also worth trying and are so "in" now. I sewed my version in one evening! I really recommend this pattern for those who want something stylish that is fuss-free, self-gratifying, and is easy to put together!

Working with this pattern is definitely a welcoming change after completing more challenging projects such as my recent labor of love, the 30 piece Simplicity 5376!


Conclusion
I usually avoid sewing with knits due to past experiences with finished products that looked unflattering and revealed more than what I wanted to show. But this pattern convinced me that knits coupled with certain styles can work!

Bohemian Wrap-sody"

Tops with Boho flair:


Here's my take on these empire waist tops:




Bohemian "Unwrap"sody


What? A belt instead of an empire waist casing?

Alternatives to the empire waist style!

Spiegel's Silk Blouson


LaBelle


Laundry by Sagal


Lepore


Have you tried something that looked enticing from the cover or packaging and discover along the way, that you were misled?

Pattern Description
"Misses' Tops nad Tunics: Tops and tunics have raglan sleeves, waistline elastic casings and ribbon bow. I sewed View B whose sleeves contain elastic casings at the wrists. The artwork on the envelope pattern enticed me to purchase at a Joann's sale some time ago.

The last time I wore an empire waist top was when I was pregnant five years ago. I sewed several maternity McCall's empire waist tops that had the back ties. They were very trendy looking for mommies-to-be! Although I really like the boho look of this top, I wish I could confidently wear the empire waist as I did before and during pregnancy. Being honest with myself, I decided to skip the empire waist look and pursue an alternative look.

I found some ideas
Shelli Sagal's Printed Jersey Dress at Nordy's (check out that retro hair!)

La Belle's Floral Charmeuse Dress at Macy's

Sizing
Misses' XS-S-MED. I sewed a medium. The top billowed out (tent style) without the empire waist elastic.

Fabric Used
A shiny and silky polyester from Joann's. Not quite charmeuse? Although it easy to work with, it can slightly fray (some thin threads protruding wildly!) I sewed 1/4" hems before turning 1/2" under to sew the neck and wrist casings.

What did you like or dislike about the pattern?

Likes
*Ease of construction
*Pieces for View B consited of the front, back and sleeve.
*The directions were easy to follow, although I somewhere switched the order of construction.
*Could be easily be adjusted to be a dress

Wishes
* Wish I could wear the empire style as well as the models.

Pattern alterations/modifications
* Omitted the empire waist casing.
* Created threaded belt hoops and a tie belt
* Cut neckline elastic to size XS on the elastic guide
* Sewed the sleeves to the fronts and back before sewing the sleeve and side seams as instructed
* Sewed the sleeves together and continued with the side seams

Conclusion
This pattern is definitely a very easy top to sew and is a wonderful and gratifying diversion from more complex projects!

This is a top that could be made up easily in one evening. Just a change of sleeves, embellishments and fabric creates endless daytime and evening styles!

* As I was surfing the Simplicity website, I found Simplicity's basic boho top, 4177 which probably would have worked better for me!