Wave-O-Lution

Wave-o-lutionary

This is the second pattern from her collection that I used.  From 1983: "Misses' Dress or Top: Pullover dress or top, tapered to hemline, has elastic in neckline and sleeve casings.


Size: Miss Medium


The style is a typical raglan-sleeved top with a gathered neckline. Although I sewed a 70's top from Simplicity, I was curious how this would turn out.

This is the first pattern from the Brooke Shields Signature collection that I sewed with.  It is from 1986.

For the 1983 top, I inserted the neckline elastic and stitch an end closed, I was shocked at the fit! Much to my dismay, it was a tent that P. T. Barnum would be happy to rent. This shocked my daughter the she was reluctant to photograph the "tent". A belt was not sufficient to "cinch away" the extra fabric. Here's the math: I ended up taking in the seams approximately 6" from each side and 6" from the center back. I made two darts with the widest part of each dart being 1". Therefore, I removed about a foot and 8" or about 5/9 of a yard of fabric.

I still do not like the fit of the back, although now it looks more decent than before. I am not sure if skipping my usual "petite" adjustments at the upper back and the other at the waist affected the outcome. The gathered fabric puffs out, making my upper back appear rounder and shorter. After my changes along the way, the top looks wearable, and would be more so after a few more adjustments. For an "easy" McCall's, I spent more time getting the top to fit than actually stitching the entire top. I prefer the fit of my "Super Simple" Simplicity top with similar styling. It is strange that the front and back section come from the same pattern piece, whereas in Brooke's pattern, the front and back come from two distinct pieces.

This pattern did not seem to be the same one that was used to create Brooke's top and dress. Also, A lighter weight fabric or one with more drape would seem to work better with this classic style.

Button-ical Gardens

As I was browsing through some of my pattern stash, I discovered many dress patterns. One of my sewing goals is to sew and wear more dresses, stepping out of my comfort zone of sewing tops/shirts/blouses and an occasional blazer/jacket.

From 1970, a "Step-by-step pattern" by McCall's: "Miss petite dress in three versions...." Original cost: 75 cents.

The front of the dress consists of three pieces: the left front bodice, the right front bodice, and the skirt. The dress has sleeveless and short-sleeve options along with options for welts and buttons details on the shoulders or diagonally along the front bodice.

I sewed a size 14, bust 36". It seemed as if McCall's was slightly generous in their sizing. If I went strictly by the specified measurements (i.e. 27 1/2") for this size, the dress would have been spacious.

Here's a  schematic of the pattern pieces and back views of  their dresses.

I used a mystery linen-blend type from Joann's. Although the fabric sewed nicely, it wrinkled easily and does not have the fluidity or drape to masquerade my figure flaws. Since it was only $2/yard, I thought it would be ideal for my first version or muslin from this pattern.

The directions  were straightforward and were accompanied by large and easily decipherable illustrations. Assembling the front bodice pieces was easier than I had expected. The matching notches aligned nicely. I would recommend this pattern for beginners if directions for attaching the back zipper were included. However, insufficient directions for particular methods could be supplemented with information obtained from on-line and/or print resources/tutorials.

Favorite Features

 *The buttons placed diagonally across the bodice.

*The composite bodice consisting of three distinct pieces that add geometric interest

*Fairly simple to sew

*Late 60's / early 70's aline style. After I sewed and tried on the dress, my mind conjured up images of retro airline stewardesses/flight attendants. I also recollect some bold blue color still worn by the KLM Dutch Airlines flight attendants on our flight to Sweden last summer.

Designer Matt Vasser just released a new line of his KLM uniforms for female flight attendants.

     In 2011, Cynthia Rowley will release her line of uniforms for United Airlines.  Here is a website containing a flight attendant's collection (coincidentally working for KLM) of "906 different stewardess uniforms from 378 airlines" It's interesting to see the evolution of fashion through the years. It's hard to tell if RTW was patterned after airline fashion or vice-versa.  Desginers such as Nina Ricci, Pierre Balmain, Balenciaga, Patou, Christian Lacroix and more have contributed to airline fashion. Here's a link  to a forum about these designer contributions.   In the 1960's, the now defunct Braniff International Airways hired Emilio Pucci to design stewardess attire in order to update its image.

Not-so-Favorite Features

* It would have been wiser and simpler to replace those cumbersome and bulky neckline and armhole facings with lining. The lining would have provided a "sleek and smooth" finish. When working with a retro/vintage pattern for the first time, I usually like to "stay true" as much as possible to the original directions. But sometimes, I drift from them, especially if there are simpler or updated methods that yield comparable or better results.

*I am not a fan of understitching (at the neckline seams and armhole seams), but it is needed to minimize the facings from "flapping" out.
* I re-cut the right front of the bodice on the bias due to fabric constraints. I discovered that I initially cut the piece on the wrong side just before stitching the front bodice pieces and skirt together (different lighting in my office). It was hard to distinguish the fabric's right and wrong sides due to their identical weave and imprint.


Pattern alterations:

*I interfaced the neckline and armhole facings. As in previous vintage patterns I used, the interfacing was basted onto the neckline before attaching the facings (non-interfaced).

*Usual adjustment: shortened the upper back by 1"

*Shorten the length by nearly 5".

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes, after another fitting adjustment, I would sew another version in a different fabric and include a lining. I definitely recommend this classic line of McCall's and other similar retro/vintage patterns due to their uniquely distinctive styles and geometric artistry that are rare in current RTW.

Conclusion:

Heather and I enjoyed wearing our new dresses on Easter day!