Red, White, and Rainbow Bright

Simplicity 6109 collared tops. Whoa! It's Kelly, Tiffany, Sabrina and Jill ready to go on a mission for Charlie!



More Than A Rainbow, More Than a Rainbow To Me...."


"How deep are your dots, deep are your dots?"

I have been searching for a collared wrap top suitable for knits and wovens. Here is one of my recent ebay wins: a 70's wrap top! I have been looking for a wrap top pattern suitable for knits with 70's flair! The high neckline is taboo in Burda land.

It's obvious I like that 70's collar which defined this top's signature look. which conjures up an image of John Travolta's iconic disco pose. Obviously many people like my mom would not want to be caught wearing these collars again. I understand. She and her friends were most likely envisioning some creepy Mr. Joe cool guy at Studio 54, flaunting his chunky chains around his neck, and of course, wearing that Haggar polyester butterfly collar jacket with swishy "Angel Flight" (remember that brand?) bell bottom pants.......You get the picture, but we all DO NOT want that picture!


Pattern Description
From 1973, "Misses Blouse: The front wrap blouse V. 1 and 2 with front gathered to back yoke at forward shoulder seams has "V" shaped neckline, collar, tie ends, fastened in back and optional top-stitching tri. V. 1 has elbow length set-in sleeves. V. 2 has short set-in sleeves. The top-stitched blouse V. 3 &4 with front slash opening has collar and long set-in sleeves. V. 3 has self fabric drawsting slipped thru casing.

I sewed view 2 the wrap blouse with short sleeves which consisted of 8 pieces: the front, back, yoke back, tie end, collar, front facing and back facing. It was nice that the pieces for each pair of views is printed on the back of the envelope as a handy preview.

Size
Misses' size 14, bust 36"

Suggested fabrics
Lightweight wool, double knit, matte jersey, jersey, challis, shantung, sateen, printed silk, crepe-back satin, surah, crepe, crepe de chine.

Fabric I used
First version: cotton knit from a local swap meet for $1/yd, which was easy to work with

Second version: Maggie London jersey with a bit of lycra/spandex from Emma One Sock. Slightly slippery to work with, but has a nice resiliency.

Directions
They came all on one page: the entire front consisted of the layout and a few tidbits on cutting, marking, and types of stitching. The back were the directions, nicely organized by view number (1-4) and in an easy-to-read format. Today's patterns could take a cue from many vintage patterns on saving paper by compacting the directions onto few sheets as possible. Unlike Burda WOF and even some of its packaged versions, nicely written directions with a clear illustration beside EACH step!

I easily became familiar with the steps after making my first version, that I was able to sew my second version with minimal reference.


Likes
*Pleated front.
I marked the fabric (dotted, solid lines), folded each of the three pleats following the up arrow from a solid to a pleated line and basted them to hold them in place.
*The iconic 70's collar
*The slight gathers at the front yoke below the shoulders
*The length which on me landed on my hips. On a person with a longer torso, most likely just past the waist.
*The drape of the short sleeves.
*The neckline did not droop. Yeah!

Dislikes
*The tops of the sleeves had a lot of positive ease (I was working with knits)


Modifications
*For my first version,I used a piece of fabric left over from Heather's retro circles dress for the upper collar to add some contrast. After doing this, the top seemed 50's diner/bowling/cosmic retro looking to me.

*I skipped the front facing and back for my second version. Somehow the front due to being cut on the bias did not stretched beyond the facings. I turned the raw edges in and made tiny zig zag stitches. I slipstitched the upper collar's tucked in raw edge over the lower collar.

*I lengthened the ties so that it would wrap around. The original ties were so short and appeared to be meant to be tied in the back.


Conclusion
This was really a fun pattern to work with. I might make View 4, the open square neck tunic looks with that style that seems to be revived in current patterns and in the fashion scene!


You should be dancing!(but not with those guys watching JT!)











Heather!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Gathered-Licious!

After the famous pop hit with this ending, all my mind has been too "icious"!

After seeing this top from Burda WOF's June 2008 issue, I had to make it!

I already made two versions of this asymmetical, gathered knit top!



I'm very happy with the results, despite some goofs along the way!


I call this "easy as 1-2-3" top my "Comedy of Errors". Unlike the other reviewers of this top, I made goofs that I could roll on the floor and giggle away! But then what makes life interesing is our unique experiences!


Pattern Description
"A T-shirt is just a T-shirt? No way! This style is a real highlight with its clever gathers and a mock wrap-over front!" My nickname for this knit top is "the asymmetrical knit top with gathering on the wearer's PREFERRED side." Something I learned about gathering on a certain side. If you have a certain preference, go with it! By the way the other front side is also gathered but at a lower section.


Size
Burda sizes 34-42. I sewed a "42".

Pattern pieces
Front (x1), left side front (x1), back on a fold (x1), sleeve (x2), front facing, on a fold (x1), back facing (x1). I borrowed a collar piece from a 70's Simplicity shirt pattern. I added 5/8" to the facings which seemed unusually narrow to me.

Likes
* Simple to construct once I was certain about the steps!
* Few pattern pieces to trace and cut
* Gathering at one side
* Versatile/adaptable


Dislikes
*Sparse directions
*The top seemed more asymmetrical on the front edge than what was represented on the technical drawing
*The neckline is lower and wider than I expected, but wait, this is a Burda WOF! So this should be expected!
*For my unusual figure type, the gathering/ruching works better for me if it were placed on my right-hand side, contrary to what's on the technical drawing!



Directions
Sparse but sufficient for those who have constructed shirts and tops before.

I'm one of those who could make more errors (due to taking things for granted!) on such an "easy" pattern as this one than those that are more advanced!


First version with Emma One Sock silky knit fabric
Maybe there was a subliminal reason why I cut two of the huge front piece and two of the left side front. I guess I have a force of habit of cutting two from a pattern piece. For the first step of construction, I gathered the left side of the front. Then I made a silly placement error of the left side piece to the front! The edges were so unaligned! My eyes somehow deceived me in the beginning because everything seemed to start off fine.

So instead of ripping apart the seams, I took my duplicate front piece which was the mirror image of the original and gathered the right hand side. So the top has gathers along the side opposite to what what was on Burda WOF. But it does not change the overall style anyway.


Second version with left over funky flowers jersey knit from my Vogue 8379 wrap dress.
I forgot to gather the lower right side of the top between the asterisks (oops, I forgot to mark them on the pattern piece!). Somehow I got away with it when I sewed both side seams of my first version. Then I could hum the Ms Spears' song, "Oop, I did it again!" with this second version! I realized that the back was obviously shorter than ther right hand seam. I know I cut the back piece correctly. Then I referred back to the technical drawings of the pattern pieces and realized that I was supposed to gather the right hand side of the front piece!

The directions are sufficient if you know the sewing basics. However, I skimmed over the directions, taking for granted, I knew what I was doing. Then,lo and behold, steps such as sewing the the seams of the front and back facing I thought were missing were written next to another step on the same square bullet!


Modifications

First version
* As mentioned earlier, I reversed the direction of the gathers.
* I added some elastic to bring up the wavy neckline. I should not have understitched because it loosened the neckline.

Second version
* I shortened the sleeves to 3/4 length due to shortage of material.
* I sewed in the sleeves flat instead of setting them in as directed.
* I added a collar for diversion from Burda's and decided to use the front and back facing.

After I tried on my second version with the gathering on the correct side (wearer's left-hand side). Then my inner voice said to me, "Hmmm. I told you so!" I noticed that since I am asymmetrical in the bust area (got more so as time goes on..), the gathering on my left-side emphasized it even more also causing the v point of the neckline to naturally shift in that area, causing more asymmetry! Having the gathers on my right hand side as in my first version provided some balance.


Conclusion
Despite some of my frustrations, I definitely recommend this top because it is really easy to put together! The styling is flattering to all figure types. I definitely recommend stabilizing the neckline with elastic instead of using the facing. I predict that this will be one of the "IT" tops for the season!

Digiticious

I just had to make another version of New Look 6621!



I got digitized, mathematized, integerized, you name it!

Reverse the digits!

Back of shirt


From my very first PR review, Heather's Numbers Dress from 2 years ago.



************************************************************************************
I cannot get enough of this pattern!
Back of shirt

From my very first PR review, Heather's Numbers Dress from 2 years ago.

I was inspired by Contrariwise's integer dress from the same fabric. I found the fabric on ebay for $8.50 a yard. Then I intensely searched the internet for this Alexander Henry "What's Your Number?" fabric. This is the first time I ever heard of this famous manufacturer for quilting cotton fabric. I did not have luck, but I found lots of groovy designs on several websites. So, I resorted to ebay and placed the next higher bid. I asked for more from the seller (5 yards!) and purchased 2 2/3 yards from what was remaining on the bolt. That's all she had left! It was better than nothing. I paid about $31 with tax and shipping.

Modifications
I sewed a "12" instead of a "14". I like the fit of the 12 better, especially in the bust area and more fitted in the hip area. I notice that the style of this shirt reminds me of Butterick 4985's, except that the Butterick has the front facing instead of the band.

If you have not seen this video, this is hilarious! Mathematicious!, set to the music of "Fergilious", which sounds like a rip-off of late 80's hit "Supersonic" by JJ Fad. A trip down memory lane for the late 80's/early 90's fans: Fergilicious, Supersonic comparison

The Floral Empire Shirt Strikes Back!

Having fun at the dressing room at Kohley's!




I just had to make this after receiving from the mail (PR sent this)!

More joyous modeling!


Close-up of this wild and groovy print! Yes, total flower power!


I hereby name this shirt, my "P & T" shirt because there's quite a bit of "pressing and topstitching"!


Pattern Description
I did not see any, but here's my best and brief one:
Fitted shirts with front princess-seamed panels, slight gathers below the bust, back darts, and collar and sleeve options. I sewed View B with the slightly 70's style collar and short puffy sleeves with banded edge.

Sizes
Misses' 6-16. I sewed a "14".


Suggested fabrics
Cotton and cotton blends, laundered cottons, poplin, sateen, lace, eyelet, silks, and stilk types, jacquards, laundered silks-rayons, batiste, voile, soft lightweight linen and linen blends.


Fabric I used
Printed cotton, 50% off at Jo Annie's. I used about 1 3/4 yard. The specs for View B mention 1 5/8 yard for a size 14 and 1 3/4 yard for a size 16.


Directions
Beyond mediocre! With all the great reviews of the pattern, I anticipated this! Every or nearly every step had easy-to-decipher illustrations. If you have made blouses/shirts before, the steps are straightforward.

I could not skim over the steps due to the order of construction differing from what I have been accustomed to. For instance, the hemming of the lower edge of the shirt preceded attaching the front band of the shirt whereas I am used to attaching the front facing of a shirt and hemming much later. I also noticed that the sleeve bands for the puffy short sleeves are attached before sewing the under arm sleeve seams.

It's been awhile since I attached a front band to a shirt (the last time was sewing my husband's Star Trek shirt). The directions and illustrations make it simple. Each front band is interfaced and sewn to its corresponding facing piece on the unnotched edges. The notched edges of each interfaced front band is sewn to the front edge of the shirt, right sides together. The band extends a little beyond the front lower hem as illustrated. The excess portion is opened up and folded right sides together and stitched 5/8" from the bottom edge or up to lower edge of the front of the shirt. After trimming the seam and folding the wrong side to the inside, the front band casing has a nice finish. The front band facings are pressed under and topstitched.

I really like the method of attaching the collar band to the neckline (while heeding the orientation of placement and the notches!) then followed by the collar and collar band facing. The seams are finished with more topstitching.


Likes
*Versatility such as the various sleeve and collar variations

*The princess seamed panels

*The back vertical darts

*The markings (dots, circles) and notches matched up pretty nicely

*The method to attach the collar band and collar


Dislikes
*Just as I read in the other reviews of this pattern, the upper chest area/upper bodice runs somewhat large. I could have used one size lower. The gathers below the bust area nearly reach my waistline.

*The neckline was a tad low for me (but not as famously low as many of those Burda shirts and blouses), but I could wear a camisole for modesty's sake.


Modifications
* I decreased the back darts width by 1/4"
* I used 5 buttons instead of 6.
* I plan to use a size 12 in the upper bodice


Would you recommend this pattern?
I definitely recommend this shirt for something fitted and flattering! Just be prepared for lots of pressing the raw edges under and topstitching! This is now my favorite princess seamed shirt and I plan to make another very soon! I would say this shirt took me one night to cut the pieces and interface the collar, collar band, and front band. Then another morning and afternoon for about 6 hours, which included doing other duties (probably less if I were a speedy sewist). It was a good thing to start off with some not-so-expensive fabric to determine sizing and fitting issues.

Conclusion
This is definitely a versatile and comfortable shirt!

CBS Rerun!

Oh no, another top with the "CBS Eyes" fabric! My fourth Jalie sweetheart neckline top! I made four version of this pattern four months ago.




Mini-me version:






My second version's neckline:




Oh no, another review of this pattern!

Next to chocolate chip cookies, I found a new addiction: Jalie's knit sweetheart top! Help!


I made four versions of this top 4 months ago. The one pictured is my fourth version and I could easily make my fifth in the near future!


Pattern Description:
"Top with sweetheart neckline, gathering at bust, neckline bands and choice of three-quarter or cap sleeve." I sewed not one, but four versions of View A, the top with the 3/4 sleeve!

Pattern Sizing:
27 sizes in one pattern! Wow! Instead of a "V" (37" bust), I sewed a "W" after reading the previous reviews regarding the fit.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, for the most part! I do agree that the neckline runs slightly lower than pictured on the model.


Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, after I worked with them before! The directions are printed on the folded pattern which was quite cumbersome. Again, I printed the #2794 directions from the Jalie website, stapled the pages and kept them handy.

This is the second Jalie pattern I worked with and I am used to their brevity in the descriptions of steps and satisfactory illustrations. The directions were organized in three sections:

1. Front
The steps consisted of stitching the center front elastic, attaching the front neck band, and easing the armholes of the front of the top.

There was the mark for the elastic placement which I missed the second time around! I found 9.2 cm, the recommended length of 1/4" wide elastic to be somewhat long for giving that "ruched" effect. I shortened the elastic by about 2 cm and was careful with the "stretch as you sew". For my first version, I used two pieces of elastic side by side because I was working with some really stretch mesh/knit! I noticed that my teal top had the nicest ruching. I had to really stretch the elastic for my third version to get it to even gather!

2. Yoke and back
The steps consisted of attaching the yokes (the bolero-like portions) to the back, attaching the neckbands along the edges of the yokes, right sides together. Again the illustrations helped. Jalie did not mention how to finish the center back of the neckbands (where they intersected). When I sewed my second and third versions, I joined the left and right neckbands, making about a 1/2" seam, which corresponded to the center back seam. Then I did not have problems "zig-zagging" the neckband to the neckline while lining up the front notches at the yoke

3. Assembly
The steps consisted of joining the front of the top to the back with the yokes, finishing the yoke/bolero bands, attaching the sleeves, and hemming the bottom

After reading the the vague "pin front to neckband seam allowances, matching notches", I was referred to the diagram that I looked at very carefully. The zigzagged portion of the neckband that was attached to the yoke is sewn to the armhole of the front of the top (right sides together, ease stitches adjusted so that notches coincide), which was easestitched in the the first section of the instructions.

However, the diagram was not clear on the location of the stitches joining front armhole to the band to the yoke/bolero piece. By instinct, I sewed them together about 1/4" from the edge of the front armhole. While working on my first version of the top, I looked ahead in the instructions and diagrams and noticed that ...a ha! The yoke/bolero bands, when pressed toward the center, will be topstitched which eventually cover those unsightly ease stitches!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the overall flattering fit of this top! The only thing is that the neckline is somewhat low, but maybe that was the intended design. The top requires as Deepika mentioned about 7/8 yard of fabric. As with working with any pattern for the first time, the only thing to dislike was encountering unfamiliar or unclear steps.

Fabric Used:
First version: meshy knit fabric, a leftover from my New Look 6729 Criss Cross top. Result: not great, but a wearable muslin.

Second version: teal fabric, a leftover from my Kwik Sew 70's knit shirt used for the bodice coupled with new fabric, smooth knit fabric with groovy circle print from Emma One Sock used for the bolero portion. Result: tight in the hip and waist area and I cut the neckband a little more than I should.

Third version: knit/spandex blend, leftover from my Simplicity 3682 knit top with drape front.

Fourth version: knit jersey, leftover from my Burda WOF tie blouse.


Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I shortened the top by about 1 1/2". For each top due to the variations in fabric, I fiddled with the elastic for the front center to get a decent ruching effect.

As an experiment, I reduced the gap in my second top (teal version) by shortening the neckband by about 1/2". As a result the yoke/bolero, moved towards the center thus decreasing the width of the sweetheart portion of the neckline!

I noticed that the necklines varied along with my fabric variations. The neckline of my first version has little ripples. The neckline of my third version was the most stable of the four tops.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I already sewed it four times! I plan to sew tops for other members of my family! Yes, I would definitely recommend this pattern! It does not require much time (especially after the first one, after you figure out some quirks) to cut and sew!

Conclusion:
I really liked this pattern and so far have been impressed with the Jalie fit and its current styles! This pattern provides the opportunity to use leftover fabric (reserved for those projects called the "I'll-make-something-from-these later" )to make something easy and wearable. Try this pattern and it could easily be your TNT with little or no alterations. You'll get hooked!