The Fifth Dimension with Butterick 5645

I am addicted to pattern Butterick 5645, view "D", with the split-sleeves. I recently sewed my fifth version of this top.

 

Things to be on the lookout for: excessive ease and long length.  For me, the longer length works due to being short-waisted. To compensate for the excessive ease, I sewed a medium instead of a large.

My fifth version in a "stretch jersey ITY knit cheetah aqua/white" from fabric.com (already sold out). For me, sewing with ITY knit can be either a success or a disappointment.  To stabilize the hems (back of neckline, edge of cowl neck before turning in the facing, sleeve edges, and lower edge of entire top), I ironed on a 1/2" wide strip of interfacing to the edge, folded and top-stitched.  I am glad my lower hem did not "catch the wave".

Fourth version, made from a polyester jersey remnant of Vogue 8451.  As in my earlier versions, I sewed an inch beyond the marked point for more stability and 1 1/2" from the lower edge of each sleeve before hemming for a "cold-shoulder" style, which is trending very much now.

Vogue 8451, short sleeved version, made two years ago:

Vogue 8451:




Now "back to Butterick 5465:  Due to fabric constraints, I sewed a center back seam and went one size smaller (from M to S). So it is a bit fitted than my other versions from this pattern.

Third version, made from a soft rayon woven with an "ikat" style print.  For my third version, I hand-stitched the ends of the split sleeve to prevent them from "flipping, flapping, and flopping" in various directions. This pattern seemed to be compatible with soft wovens, but not with fabrics such as cotton lawn and a slightly denser cotton woven that I used in my second version, which nearly became a "wadder".  I also did not fare successfully with a soft and lightweight rayon/(cotton?) blend knit that I used for my first version, which made the excess ease apparent. The only changes beyond my typical petite adjustment at the waist and narrowing of the upper back, was increasing the shoulder width another inch (to prevent more slippage and to reduce the chance of a bra strap peeping out) and to stitch the two ends of the sleeve together to prevent the sleeve hems from showing.

 

I enjoyed wearing my fifth version.  I made my typical adjustments: shortening 3/4" at the waist, narrowing the upper back 1 1/2" (3/4" from the upper center seam).  Since the fabric I used was a remnant of a previous project,  I shortened the front and the back of the sleeves by different amounts.  Since I was satisfied with the asymmetry (sleeve front is curved and the back sleeve is straight),  I did not bother changing the back sleeve to reflect the change used for the front sleeve.

My "shy" photographer in a RTW dress with mixed print. She's slowly drifting away from me sewing some outfits for her.  Forever 21 (now they have a girls' department) has trendy and low-cost ready-to-wear. I still would rather sew for her than for myself.  A child's sweet reaction to creating something personally made for him or her is very precious and endearing.

Getting a little shade on a very warm, sunny day.  Yesterday's temperature seemed higher than 75 degrees.

Webbed Sights to See and Wear

My husband, Heather and I saw just saw "The Amazing Spiderman" in 3D, starring Andrew Garfield and Emma Stone.  I found the movie surprisingly fantastic.

Heather wore her "Spidey Skirt" with three tiers of ruffles while Andrew wore ...

... his "Spidey Spandex".  During an interview at the height of popularity of  "The Social Network", co-star Justin Timberlake (seated next to Andrew) trying to be pun-ny,  made a reference to this being his first "skintight" role.  I don't remember Tom, Denzel, Johnny or Brad in such roles earlier in their careers. 

A few weeks ago, Emma and Andrew participated in a photo session in Madrid, Spain. Emma's Roksanda Ilincic from the fall 2012 collection would look better without the ruffle.  It is reassuring to know that there is another one besides myself who experienced some challenges with gathering a piece of fabric...
 

This 2012 Spider Man "reboot" had a nice melange of  (I don't care what the critics say)...

action,

adventure,

drama,

science fiction,

romance,

and much more...

For Heather's "Spidey Skirt" I used McCall's 6276




For the yoke and upper ruffle I used the same fabric as for my Spidey top made from a July 2012 Burda Style pattern (separate post)

for the second tier, I used this fabric that I purchased at Joann's.

and for the third tier, I used a cotton printed with colorful butterflies and swirls filled with connected circles.

Heather really enjoyed the movie and of course, wearing her new Spidey skirt.

By her grandparents' home (not the one behind her).

Have a Spidera-Dee-lightful day!

4th Burda Style Top for The 4th of July

Last night, I just completed my 4th version of pattern #108 from this month's issue of Burda. I used a silky polyester from my stash.

My "Julie Defourth" top.  I feel very patriotic today. 

I threaded several red beads and  a "La Mode" flag/heart button through each existing earring hoop.

My earlier three versions:

 

Fourth version:
*I cut the fabric on the bias per Burda Style's directions. (My first three were cut on the lengthwise grain).

*I went down one size at the shoulders. I should have also adjusted the location of the bust darts accordingly, or for one being asymmetric.

*I doubled the width of the rectangular bow tie piece to create a "tubular tie"  (fold it in half lengthwise right sides together, sew the ends and edge, leaving a 2" opening at the center at which to turn it inside out).  Instead of cutting the bow as one rectangle, I cut it as two rectangular pieces to be joined at a center seam.

*I  omitted the binding and top-stitching at the armscye.  Folded a hem, pressed, and topstitched a narrow 3/8" hem at the  armscye below the cap sleeves.  I used a finishing stitch for armscye's inner seam.

*I sewed French seams for the side seams.  For the lower hem, I pressed under 1/4" from the raw edge, stitched the hem, and pressed under an additional 3/8" and stitched the new hem.

Here's a photo of a portion of the lower hem and a French side seam on my new ironing board cover.

Here's a link to my earlier review of Burda Style #108 that will open in another window.  If you plan to make this, I hope my experience with this pattern is helpful. 
 First three versions blog entry

We plan to visit my parents this evening.

Have a wonderful 4th of July!