Sewberta Plant

Here is a pattern that I purchased last week at JoAnn's during a Buttericks' sale. 

Pattern Description:

Tops/tunics with scoop necklines and sleeve options. I sewed view "B", the top with the sleeve tabs that the model is wearing.  I agree that this pattern is "easy", if it is sewn straight out of the envelope.

Pattern Sizing:

Misses' 8-18.

I sewed a "10" at the shoulders and neckline. I sewed a "14" elsewhere.

Fabric Used:
A mystery lightweight polyester woven from le Wal Marche

I feel llike a walking billboard for Ragu pasta sauce or for Knorr soups and seasonings due to the color scheme of their logos.  

"Babe I’m Gonna Sleeve You"

The pair of sleeve tabs for view "B" is simple to sew (This is actually the third time to sew then on a garment). Once a tab is turned inside out after sewing two pieces together and closing the open end with little zig-zag stitches...

(1) I stitched a buttonhole, 3/4" above the pointed end.

(2) I aligned this end and double-stitched it (using a 1/4" seam allowance) along the marked circles (transferred from the front and pattern pieces) perpendicular to the interior shoulder seam. On the outside, where the double-stitching was visible, I attached a button, centered at the shoulder seam.

(3) I took the tab "out of hiding" from the inside to the outside, "ruching" the sleeves in the process, to fasten it to the button, instead of rolling up the sleeves first per the instructions. The button and pointed end of the tab ended up being just past my shoulder. I fiddled with the tab and sleeve so that the tab and sleeve seam are both centered as much as possible along my upper arm.

"Whole Lotta Length and Width"
*For the views that do not have the elastic at the waist, the top billows out due to its exaggerated a-line shaping.

*Loose neckline, which could be remedied by taking in further the center seam of the bias strip of fabric to tighten the neckline, or adjusting the front/back pattern pieces to remove excess width.

*The original length of the tunic can overwhelm petite frames.


More Riffs
* To decrease the width of the upper back, I took out a 3/8" seam (3/4" total width) from the center of the upper back before cutting the entire back piece from the fabric.

*To shorten the upper back I made a horizontal fold starting with a 1/2" length from the center of the pattern piece, tapering to 0" at the sleeves

*I made a 3/4" petite adjustment at the waist on the front and back pattern pieces.

*Instead of sewing the bias strip onto the right side or visible part of the neckline, I sewed it onto the wrong side at 3/8" seams, pressed one end, turned it to the outside and topstitched it to the neckline.

*Topstitched the sleeve tabs

*I found the tunic length long for my short torso. Instead of using the full length for the tunic version, I added 1" to the length for view "C" .

*I took in each side seam an additional 1/4".

*Since I was dealing with fabric that unravelled or frayed easily at the edges, I staystitched the lower edges of the sleeves and those of the entire top 1/8" from the edge before pressing under a 1/2" hem and topstitching.

Comeback Tour?
I would sew with this pattern after a few more changes:
(1) tightening and raising the depth of the neckline
(2) removing excess width at the bust, upper back, and hips (especially for the non-elasticized tops)

So this pattern has a hopeful potential to be "go-to" or TNT pattern.

I recommend this pattern due to its ease of construction and its versatility, with added caution of the neckline depth, potential generous sizing at the bust and hips, and the the tunic length being long, especially for petites.

If you sew the pattern, straight out of the envelope, it undoubtedly is a "simple sew" or a "quick gratification" project.

Time to prepare dinner.  Chicken Broccoli flavored rice sounds good for tonight or maybe some Ragu and pasta.

Wave-O-Lution

A forty-one-year-old pattern that I purchased from ebay several years ago...

This pattern was one of the earlier ones that I purchased on-line to start my "retro" pattern collection.  I recall being inspired after watching some of my favorite classic television shows that appeared on the TV Land network or elsewhere.  For months now, I have been in a phase of sewing "collar-less" tops.  During one particular week last summer, I was on a shirt-sewing spree which included using a Burda commercial pattern, a Marlo Thomas 1970's pattern, and this pattern.   

 Pattern Description:  "The top-stitched men's and misses' shirt V. 1 and 2 with forward shoulder seams and slash opening at neck edge have collar, set-in sleeves and slit openings in side seams.  V. 2 with long sleeves gathered to buttoned cuff is worn with self fabric tie belt.  V. 2 with short sleeves has optional purchased belt."

Size:  Misses' size 14, bust 36

Here is the back of the pattern envelope that also includes information on men's sizing and fabric requirement. 

I made this top from a cotton woven blend from fabric.com. 

Favorite Features:

*I like the tunic-style of this top, although the fit and overall style look a bit dated due to the decade of the pattern.  This pattern would have been ideal  for dressing Mr. and Mrs. Brady and their children during their early 1970's heyday on television.

*I replaced the sleeve cuffs and plackets, with pleated flounces, for a more feminine look.

* The directions and illustrations are user friendly and non-intimidating for beginners who want to sew collared and cuffed shirts, without such features as front buttons and buttonholes and collar stands.   I also find that sewing with such basic patterns help return some sewing "mojo" before tackling more challenging  projects.

*The front slit is easy to create using the stitch and slash method as described on the instruction sheet. 

All the directions are on one sheet, front and back.

Not-so-favorite features

* Dropped sleeves (approximately an inch and a quarter past each shoulder) and excess gathers/ease, which do not appear on the illustrated models on the pattern envelope.

*No shaping at the side seams. 

Modifications

* Performed my usual petite adjusmtents at the upper back and at the waistline.

* Changed the cuffed sleeves to pleated sleeves for a flounced look.  It seemed that I cut the width of the sleeve cuff/flounce 4"-5" inches wider than the circumference of each sleeve at the wrist's location, and distributed 5 little pleats as evenly as possible before attaching it to the end of the sleeve.

* Sewed the collar from the inside, or the wrong side of the garment, leaving the facing portion free between the clipped points (right side of collar to the wrong side of the neck line), instead of sewing from the outside (right sides of the collar and neckline together). Then the collar is flipped to the outside and topstitched to the neckline. I recall a similar method I used to construct a 1950's blouse. This leaves a sleeker and cleaner finish from the inside of the neckline leading to the upper front and no erratic topstitching on the neckline seam on the outside.



Conclusion:

I probably will not use this pattern again.  It's a fairly easy pattern that I would recommend for those who like styles from the early 1970's or for a retro-themed event.

Two pairs of dangling gold "waves".  I purchased a pair of the Veronese from hsn.com last year.

Changing Your Spots

"Sew, Sew, Sew Your Bateau Gently Down The Seams..."

Pattern Description:
"Misses' Top, Tunic and Sash: Very loose-fitting, pullover tops A, B, tunics c, D have bateau neckline and attached hems. A: Armhole flounce. B: contrast appliques and ends of sash. C, D: side slits. D: contrast above wriist length sleeves. A, C, D: purchased belt.

I sewed view A.

Pattern Sizing:
I used BB: 8-10-12-14.
I sewed a "10" at the shoulders and neckline. For my second version,  I sewed a "12", instead of my usual "14" at the bust and sides. When Butterick meant "loose-fitting", it really meant very loose fitting!


Fabric Used:
Second version: Pre-laundered cotton woven with red and white leopard print.   First version: Remaining poly-satin from Le Wal Marche from my previous two projects. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes, except my sleeves of my second version of this pattern ruffled "differently" due to my "little" upwards translation of the start of the armholes.


Were the instructions easy to follow?
I thought they were easy to the point that I was able to nearly get by with only the illustrations. I found it helpful to preview the entire set of instructions due to the pattern having 4 views.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Favorite Features
*Few pattern pieces (front, back, front facing, back facing, sleeve flounce (view A)

*The top sews more quickly, especially if you sew view "A" without the flounced sleeves.

First version (muslin).  This top was a very loose "sack".  Then now it's too fitted!  I should have stopped after taking the seams in for the second time.

*Bateau neckline



Not-so-favorite Features
*Although I like the bateau neckline, I am not fond of using the "outdated" interfaced neck facings. For my first version, I folded and topstitched the neckline, which somehow did not work, especially with the "slippery" fabric I was using. It would have probably worked if I ironed on a strip of interfacing to stabilize the neckline. However, for the second top, I used the front and neck facing. After careful understitching and some iron-pressing of the neck facing, I was able to get a sleeker neckline.

*The neckline tended to drape with a droop, which I attribute to my narrow shoulders. If I make this top again, I would do a slash and overlap below each shoulder.

*My usual 1" petite adjustment did not work for the back because of those extra wrinkles created by the additional length. It seemed that I needed to fold in an additional 1".

*I thought the location where the armholes started (designated by the marked squares which are lower for view A than the other views due to including the sleeve flounces) were quite low for me, landing below my bustline. After I raised it to the upper squares, I had to shorten the sleeve flounces to better encircle armscyes as I stitched. Now due to the placement, my flounces flared out "wildly"! For a moment, I thought I heard samba music playing!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
*I took in the sleeve flounces approximately 1 1/2".

*I took in the back an additional 5/8" (folded the pattern piece before cutting) because I foresaw "draping" in the upper back.

*I sewed the shoulders together and sides together using French seams.

*To prevent the hems of the sleeve flounce from showing, I cut another pair of flounce pieces to act as self-facings or linings for the other pair. I sewed each facing (right sides together) to the original flounce.

*Since I was not yet able to find a belt that would coordinate well with the flounced top, I sewed a makeshift belt from the remaining fabric and secured it with a red buckle from Lucy'sFabrics.com that I purchased a few years ago.



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I have already sewn it twice and need to make a neckline adjustment and another petite adjustment at the back waistline. I recommend this top along with my observation that the top seems to run one or two sizes larger from my experience.

Without a belt:

Conclusion:
Even with my fuss with the sleeves and the fit, I was able to sew my top in nearly two hours!