Hawaii Bob-O

We recently purchased some bright yellow SpongeBob/Patrick fabric fro $3.33/yd at le Wal Marche. I originally intended to make Heather a dress. Heather pulled out two patterns from her "to be sewn" box and insisted that I make the top from Butterick 3860 and the handkerchief looking skirt from McCall's 5091 (already out of print) from the Sassy Girl collection.








McCall's Pattern Description
Girls Tops, Skirts & Armbands

Fabric
Sponge Bob and Patrick themed cotton






Features of Handkerchief Looking Skirt
*Three tiers of fabric
*Elastic casing at waist
*Be prepared for lots of hem pressing and stitching!
*Still easy to construct


Amazing Trace
I decided to start with creating the skirt, which consisted of 4 pieces: the upper yoke, the upper front/back, the middle front/back, the lower front/back. I dauntingly traced and cut what I approximated to be a size "6" from girls' patterns in the 7-10 range (McCall's skirt) and 7-14 range (Butterick top). Heather also helped with the labeling of the pattern pieces and the cutting. She then whined a little about being tired especially when cutting curved pieces, so I took over the cutting.




Directions
Tiers for Fears
I found them satisfactory. The illustration for adding each layer in the skirt is not clear. It helps to visualize the progression of the tiers. The upper front and back is shorter than the middle front and back which is shorter than the lower front and back. Also the wrong side of the upper front/back is placed over the middle front/back. The wrong side of the middle front/back is placed over the right side of the lower front/back. If you have sewn skirt with similar styling, you would have no problems.

The pieces are sewn to produce 3 tiers of fabric with hem corners in different orientations, all sharing the same top seam that the upper yoke encircles. The skirt is simple to sew, but not quick to sew due to the seemingly endless hemming! After sewing the side seams of a front to its corresponding back, I proceeded with the pressing and stitching those 5/8" hems. It reminded me of stitching the hems of 3 large handkerchiefs! Here's the math: upper front and back (4 hems, approx 17" each side), middle front and back (4 hems with each side length approximating 23 1/2") and the lower front and back (4 hems with each side length approximating 23"). So 4 * 3 = 12 hems! Your math assignment will be calculate the total hem distance of this skirt...
(total = 254"= 21' 2")



Modifications
These seams go on when I close my eyes
* Used French seams at the sides to joining a front piece to its corresponding back piece.
* Embellished the seam of the upper yoke, and upper front/back with a Hello Kitty ribbon.




Conclusion
Twirls just want to have fun
Although the hemming takes some time, you get a very unique and stylish skirt for your favorite girl that she can twirl in!

Butterflies Are Free

Yippee!!! Spring is here!

Heather received some belated birthday presents from her godmother/aunt (my sister). She is wearing happily, proudly a Hello Kitty necklace, a globally conscious Hello Kitty t-shirt, and eating go-gurt, of course.


I just completed my third entry for the "One Pattern, Multiple Looks" contest! What an enabler to update my wardrobe. My favorite is my second version in the Paola Frani fabric (purple).



This was my first choice to sew from the March 2009 issue of Burda WOF!


Pattern Description
Shirt "with 3/4 sleeves and an-extra-large collar make this blouse a veritable showpiece. The plunging V-neckline can be gathered by drawstrings, ensuring a perfict fit without bust darts."


Size
Burda 36-38-40-42-44. I sewed a "40".




Fabrics
First version: Leftover mystery (from my Burda 7891 ruffled front shirt poly/charmeuse type for $1/yd from le Wal Marche!


Second version: Paola Frani microfiber (poly) print from EmmaOneSock ($17/yd...). It is "drapey and lightweight."



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Third version in cotton seersucker




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Favorite Features
* Ability to adjust the depth of the neckline by cinching further the tie
* Figure flattering silhouette
* Simple to construct (still, not quick) after the first version.


Not-so-favorite Features
* Without the drawstring, inarguably very low necklne on me (below my rib cage!!!). I think it even still plunges despite cinching the tie further. I modified my original pattern front piece's neckline along with the height of the front facing for my second version. Maybe I have a lower chest to neck ratio than the average woman.

*Oops! I should have cut the left and right front separately. I did not intend for that big flower be situated like that on my left front, if you know what I mean.


Other
I encountered more ease with my floral top than with my dotted top due to my fabric choices.

Now excuse me for cranking up some fun, retro pop...

Directions
Sew on down the line...
They were concise and doable for Burda WOF regulars, yet requires the "read, read again and ponder" process for even Burda WOF regulars as myself.

When it's time to change, you've got to rearrange who you are into what you're gonna be. Sha na na na, na na na na na, sha na na na na...
I did the following steps 'before' instead of 'after' sewing the back darts and side seams:
* I applied fusible interfacing to the upper collar and front facing (Burda makes no mention of this) and folded it twice and pressed it. I made a mistake of applying interfacing to my first version's upper yoke which caused some bulking.
* Stay stitched the back neckline to be on the safe side
* Pressed the front facing along the fold lines
* Turned the the left and front necklines 1/4" and pressed along the foldline for the casing


Upside down, boy, you turn me inside out and round and round...
First version:
But somehow, my internal compass experienced some technical difficulty when I encountered the step, "stitching the the front yokes to the lower front pieces from edge of armhome to marking." I said to myself "this should be easy!" I proceeded with confidence and after stitching one yoke, I noticed that my undercollar was inverted!

I ripped out the seam and stared at the upper yoke piece while turning it probably almost every which way to figure out where to situate it on the front piece. Then the "a-ha" came after noting that the mark on the upper collar aligned with the apex of the neckline casing and that the more pointed of the two points aligned with the mark on the lower part of the armhole just above the side seam. I included a picture of front yoke pinned to the lower front.



Placement of upper yoke with virtual post-it notes. I did not need to interface the entire piece, but only the corners as Christina S. suggested.

I really appreciate Christina's very helpful review showing pictures of the under collar and upper yoke as one piece and the extension the upper collar that looks like a "mock" collar stand that is hand sewn and tacked to the inside.


Modifications/Variations

Both versions:
*Shortened the sleeve, as printed on the pattern sheet, by 3/4" inch and turned up a 1/2" seam, with 1/4" of raw edge turned under

*Used French seams to finish the side and sleeve seams.

*Used a small safety pin to turn the ties inside out and to thread each through a neckline casing exiting through the little buttonhole.

*Reduced the height of the sleeve cap by 1/2".

Floral top:
Fill my eyes, with that double vision...
*I cut the top collar into two pieces with seam allowances so that each piece has the nearly the same floral design for some symmetry. I was not able to get a mirror image of the butterfly at the upper yoke.


Down on the corner, out in the seams...
*In sewing each shoulder seam where the upper yoke and back meet, I stopped precisely at the corner where the upper yoke and the under collar meet. I minimized the bunching that I encountered in sewing my first version when I attached the undercollar to the back neckline (after sewing its center back seam)

Lady, you bring me up when I'm down, up when I'm down...
* I overlayed a smaller piece of gift wrap tissue paper, and raised the neckline to 2" from the front facing, tapering to 0" at the apex of each lower front piece. I also adjusted the fold line for the neckline casing and the buttonholes through with the ties would pass. In comparing the second with my first shirt, I did not see a significant difference, but it seemed that I did not have to cinch as much to get the neckline at a decent depth.


Conclusion

Since I have already sewn two of these tops, I'll give this pattern a brief time-out. If I do sew this again, I would make a short-sleeved version. The cinched front with the ties and the collar give this top its distinctive styling. If you have this month of BWOF or can get ahold of a copy, give it a try!







Update, March 28, 2009

Modifications
* Used seersucker fabric.
* Replaced front facings/buttonholes with center front seam except at 1 1/2" before the edge of neckline. Folded inward a narrow hem at top center before folding approximately a 3/4" hem for the neckline (with 1/4" of raw edge tucked under).

* Threaded the ties through the casings so that they exit through the front centers instead of from two little buttonholes as in the first and second versions.

* Cut each front separately to achieve chevron design.

* Shortened sleeves. For a "flutter" look, increased each seam by 3/4" from the bottom, tapering to 0" below armscye.


Conclusion
* The top had less ease than expected. I should have increased seam allowance to another 1/4"
* I plan to sew this version in a poly knit and see what happens.
* Versatile pattern. I achieved variations in fit, drape, and style just by changing the fabric and sleeve lengths.

Purple Reigns Again

The minute I saw this jacket from the January issue, I wanted to sew it immediately! Now that I have a 4 week vacation from work, I found the opportunity to sew this.

If I had to summarize my experience with this pattern it would be, "One step forward, then one step back". I humbly confess that I probably made every mistake imaginable that warranted constant use of my handy-dandy seam ripper.

Pattern Description
Rating: Three Dots

"Let the sunshine in! The yellow luxury fabric highlights the clean cut of the double-breasted jacket with cuffed 3/4-length sleeves, rounded collar, and self-fabric belt. A knee-length pencil skirt of the same fabric joins the jacket for a sporty-feminine costume/ suit." My version is more like "I Heard It Through the Grapevine."


Size
I traced and cut a Burda "40".




Fabric
For my first/muslin version, I used a rayon linen from Fashionista Fabrics. This was left over from a New Look shirt.


Favorite Features
*Pleated sleeve caps
*Double breasted style


Not-so-favorite Features
*Really roomy bodice which necessitated a belt to cinch the waist. I probably would have gotten away with a "38", but still a 40 at the shoulders. This time, I found the shoulder width a little narrow for me. Possible cause: tracer's error.

* If only I was able to fully understand the ambiguous directions! I almost gave up on this jacket due to my many misinterpretations (which caused my dependance upon the seam ripper).


Pattern Pieces
Come on, come on, come on trace it!
Trace another little piece of my Burda WOF

There was extensive fabric cutting which I had anticipated after tracing the pieces a month ago. As mentioned in the "cutting layout" section, there were pattern pieces that were embedded in the main front portion of the jacket. For instance, I traced (with seam allowances) and cut the front facing, front lining and pocket pieces that were drawn in the front piece.

To make the cutting task more motivational and fun, I put on some background music: 1982's "Success Has Not Spoiled Me Yet" by Australian-American rocker Rick Springfield (still lookin' good and touring at 59). His website has some good-length samples to listen from his current (reminiscent of 70's rock) album while you are reading this. My favorite new song is "She" which is very Beatles'-Sgt Pepper's sounding. From Amazon.com (wow...free shipping), I purchased some CD's to replace some worn-out vinyls, cassettes, and 8-track tapes in my collection. The 80's has never sounded this good in a long time. Precautionary note: rocking out can cause some cutting errors...


Directions
Burda WOF is two-faced. It can be sparse and cryptic and it can be verbose and still be cryptic. Despite being lengthy and detailed for a Burda WOF (4 columns worth of directions with technical drawings and cutting layout), I was baffled and frustrated by certain steps (i.e. welt pockets) due to the lack of illustrations.

The WELT-To-Do
It would have been delightful if Burda assigned this "exclusive design" as the "sewing course" of the month! I spent the most time deciphering the construction for the welts with the built-in belt-carriers which reminds me of two "cell phone" cases sewn onto the front of the jacket. I experienced major difficulty in situating the welt and fabric pocket piece before stitching along the marked stitch lines on the top. I did not see a mention (unless my eyes deceived me) of where the pocket lining was to be situated prior to stitching, so I assumed that it was to be sewn over the welt.


Welt with error: I forgot to sew the bottom seam. So I had to remove the basting stitches on the lower side edge, turn the outside in and stitch the bottom edge.

Placement of welt and pocket piece:

Placement of lining piece over welt:

Sewing the pocket lining piece from the inside of the jacket (as directed by Burda):


Just as I had done with Heather's peacoat-styled jacket, I should have used Kenneth King's method for single welt-pockets that he fully described in his Cool Couture book. I persisted in using the method described in Burda WOF and came to the conclusion that Kenneth's method is sleeker in minimizing the bulk in the corners (and elsewhere) after slashing between the two stitched rows formed by the welt and pocket piece.


Collar, Are You There?
Since the big collar pieces had a unique C-curve to them, I was somewhat uncertain as to how to attach the nearly "elliptical" collar stands to them. From what I saw, each collar piece would have to "surround" the collar stand. So, I took a leap of faith and matched up the curves, taking into account how the collar will appear on the neckline. I did not recall (unless my eyes deceived me again) seeing on the pattern sheet additonal symbols where the pieces would align.

I had to use my seam ripper because I stitched beyond the lapel (curved portion next to the collar band). Other than that the collar construction and application was straightforward. Even though I am familiar with collars and facings, I was still confused by the verbosity of the directions. It would have been better if Burda mentioned, "Place entire collar with stand on the neckline with facing over it." Up to this point, the back facing had been unattached to the neckline of the jacket and the front facing nearly fully attached (sewed the neckline up to a certain point that I somehow missed to mark on my pattern piece!).

I "sandwiched" the entire collar between the neckline of the jacket and the facing (= little back facing and two large front facings). The under collar with its stand was sewn directly on the neckline of the jacket and the top collar with its stand (over the under collar) was beneath the facing.


Liner Notes
I made sure that I cut the front lining piece sans the front facing and the back lining piece sans the back facing, but with the ease pleat (additional 2 cm). Since the sleeve lining pieces did not have the upper pleats, I cut the sleeve lining pieces from the sleeve pattern pieces with the pleats pinned pinned in place (per Burda directions) to avoid the pleats in the sleeve lining. Since I already spent quite a bit of time on this jacket that, I decided to to use my swift and familiar "bagging" technique. One of my next goals to take my sewing to the next level is to use a couture technique for lining construction. Just a note to myself: not to sew when you are tired. I realized later that after sewing the lining to the jacket, right sides together and turning the jacket inside out, the wrong side of the lining (back pleats showing) stared at me. I was too tired to reach for the seam ripper...


Modifications
* Redrafted my own belt from left over fabric (4 1/2 width). I added a temporary "D" ring for decorative purposes.

*Omitted the sleeve vents and cuffs. I like the look of the sleeves the way they are.


Conclusion
I most likely will not use this pattern again, since I have more to try in my stash. I would have to redraft it if I want to eliminate the belt.

You might be able to breeze through this pattern and not encounter any ambiguous sections while reading the directions. I would recommend this pattern due to its classic styling and if you are up to the challenge.

March 14, 2003, 12:15 a.m.

After enumerating the months, days, minutes
And seconds to the infinitesimal mind-swirl..
The time has arrived for a little soul and being
To make her offical debut to the world...







A vivacious and lovable being
A little flower, a precious jewel...
God's loving creation
For the first time, I felt an abundance of
Love and joy, a spiritual renewal...





From the moment I saw and held you,
I immediately recognized two features
That can captivate, delight,
And mesmerize...
They also reveal so much about how you view
And how you can influence the world,
They are are your eyes...




Distinctively large as to be perceptive and inquisitive,



Instinctively large as to be receptive and sensitive...



Intellect and compassion
They fully display

They remain the same
To this very special day....










We are very blessed to have you in our lives,
Happy 6th Birthday, Heather Marie!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!






Love,
Mommy and Daddy.....

Plaid to Meet You!

The mad for plaid trend is arriving full bloom for spring 2009!



Burda website





Heather eagerly chose this jacket from the children's section in Burda WOF, January 2009.

For the little ladies from Juicy Couture:


From Nordy's, a plaid wool jacket for $358.

From Neiman Marcus, a cropped jacket for $148.




P-P-P-P-Plaid to the Bone!



Since Heather is working with rhyming words in kindergarten. I associated "plaid" with "mad" pointing to a popular 80's song that came to mind, "I'm Plaid (Mad) About You...."


I just completed sewing Heather's new peacoat. She adores it!

I'm Mad About Plaid! Plaid About You!!!!!!!!!!!!


Pattern Description
"Her favourite new jacket is not only comfortable and easy to mix and match – its decorative jeans-style topstitching and the double-breasted front also look great."

Size
Height in cm: 104, 110, 116, 122. I sewed a 116 based on her height. In terms of fit, the jacket seemed two sizes larger for her. After looking again at the Burda models, the jacket seemd drafted to be unstructured and slouchy.



Fabric
Tahari glen plaid from Fashionista Fabrics.
a Tahari Glen Plaid dress from Overstock.com



Favorite Features
*Well-drafted. The pieces went together nicely.
*Peacoat style
*Raglan styled sleeves (two-piece sleeve)
*Back yoke with pleat just below it.


Not-so-favorite features
*Confusing directions for the welt pockets. Used Kenneth King's method for "Foolproof Single-Welt Pockets" from his "Cool Couture" book.

*Aligning the plaids.

Directions
Directions were easy to follow (except the convoluted ones for welt pocket for another pattern in the same issue), especially if you are familiar sewing a raglan shirt or jacket.

I paced myself, setting a goal for each day I have available to sew. I have a habit of wanting to finish everything in one day!

Day One
* Traced and cut all pattern pieces including the pieces to be measured such as the back loop and the welt and pockets.
* Interfaced the two center fronts and one collar piece.

Day Two
* Cut the fabric and lining pieces (side front, back, front sleeve, back sleeve.
* Prepared and attached the welt pockets to the side fronts, using Kenneth King's method described in "Modifications" section below.




Day Three
* Basted the back pleat and prepared the back loop and basted it to the center back.
* Sewed the back yoke to the the lower back portion containing the pleat and the loop.
* Sewed the front sleeve to the upper curved portion of the side front and the back sleeves to the upper curved portion of the back.
* Joined each front section to the corresponding back section at the seam underneath the sleeves and the at the sides as one continuous seam.
* Sewed the interfaced center front to the sides front.
* Prepared the collar and basted it to the neckline.

Day Four
* Prepared the lining in the same way as the visible jacket, sans the yoke.
* Attached the lining along the front edges, neckline, and lower edges. Instead of leaving an opening on the bottom to turn the jacket inside out, I left a 4" opening at the side through which to gently pull the garment through. Then I carefully slip-stitched the opening.
* Stitched the 6 buttonholes and attached the buttons.
* Finished the sleeve lining edge with a 1/8" seam allowance, tucked under an additional 3/8" seam allowance, and handstitched it to the sleeve's finished edge.


Modifications
* Instead of at the beginning of construction (just after cutting the fabric pieces), stitched the center fronts to the side fronts just before attaching the collar.

From Olliebollen, a Catimini wool manteau for $149 The welt/pocket flaps are downward.


*Used Kenneth King's method for "Foolproof Single-Welt Pockets" from his "Cool Couture" book. I situated my welts upward instead of downward on the markings so that the pocket flaps will face downward after stitching, slashing, sewing the pockets and turning them to the underside of the side fronts. After scrolling down a little, here are more information and pictures that provide an overview of Kenneth's nicely detailed method that started on page 89. I highly recommend this book!

*Omitted all topstitching.

*I was remiss in omitting the lower hem allowance for the center front and front facings. So the jacket ended up being about an inch shorter in length.


Conclusion
Can you sew them, sew right through them....It doesn't matter what they say, even if the fabric frays, hey, hey, hey... Our Seams are Sealed

I made one final press of the collar and the center front to maintaing the crease for the lapels.

My first impression of Heather's new jacket was "That seems to be 2 sizes large for her!" However, it did pass the "grandma" test. Grandma (my mom) adored the style and asked me to make another one for Heather! Now I appreciate that the jacket really had that retro "swing" style. I later noticed its cape-like style which makes it more endearing.

I am not sure if I will sew this again, but if I do, I would probably use a lightweight denim for a casual look. It really is simple to sew, although time consuming due to details such as welt pockets, collar, and lining. Nevertheless, I highly recommend this as a first time Burda WOF lined jacket because it is very well drafted and the directions are concise and clear (except for the welt pockets borrowed from another pattern) in comparison to other BWOF patterns.

More "affordable" RTW from Nine West:


From Macy's for $129:



From a high-end online store for $149: