Butterflies Are Free

Yippee!!! Spring is here!

Heather received some belated birthday presents from her godmother/aunt (my sister). She is wearing happily, proudly a Hello Kitty necklace, a globally conscious Hello Kitty t-shirt, and eating go-gurt, of course.


I just completed my third entry for the "One Pattern, Multiple Looks" contest! What an enabler to update my wardrobe. My favorite is my second version in the Paola Frani fabric (purple).



This was my first choice to sew from the March 2009 issue of Burda WOF!


Pattern Description
Shirt "with 3/4 sleeves and an-extra-large collar make this blouse a veritable showpiece. The plunging V-neckline can be gathered by drawstrings, ensuring a perfict fit without bust darts."


Size
Burda 36-38-40-42-44. I sewed a "40".




Fabrics
First version: Leftover mystery (from my Burda 7891 ruffled front shirt poly/charmeuse type for $1/yd from le Wal Marche!


Second version: Paola Frani microfiber (poly) print from EmmaOneSock ($17/yd...). It is "drapey and lightweight."



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Third version in cotton seersucker




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Favorite Features
* Ability to adjust the depth of the neckline by cinching further the tie
* Figure flattering silhouette
* Simple to construct (still, not quick) after the first version.


Not-so-favorite Features
* Without the drawstring, inarguably very low necklne on me (below my rib cage!!!). I think it even still plunges despite cinching the tie further. I modified my original pattern front piece's neckline along with the height of the front facing for my second version. Maybe I have a lower chest to neck ratio than the average woman.

*Oops! I should have cut the left and right front separately. I did not intend for that big flower be situated like that on my left front, if you know what I mean.


Other
I encountered more ease with my floral top than with my dotted top due to my fabric choices.

Now excuse me for cranking up some fun, retro pop...

Directions
Sew on down the line...
They were concise and doable for Burda WOF regulars, yet requires the "read, read again and ponder" process for even Burda WOF regulars as myself.

When it's time to change, you've got to rearrange who you are into what you're gonna be. Sha na na na, na na na na na, sha na na na na...
I did the following steps 'before' instead of 'after' sewing the back darts and side seams:
* I applied fusible interfacing to the upper collar and front facing (Burda makes no mention of this) and folded it twice and pressed it. I made a mistake of applying interfacing to my first version's upper yoke which caused some bulking.
* Stay stitched the back neckline to be on the safe side
* Pressed the front facing along the fold lines
* Turned the the left and front necklines 1/4" and pressed along the foldline for the casing


Upside down, boy, you turn me inside out and round and round...
First version:
But somehow, my internal compass experienced some technical difficulty when I encountered the step, "stitching the the front yokes to the lower front pieces from edge of armhome to marking." I said to myself "this should be easy!" I proceeded with confidence and after stitching one yoke, I noticed that my undercollar was inverted!

I ripped out the seam and stared at the upper yoke piece while turning it probably almost every which way to figure out where to situate it on the front piece. Then the "a-ha" came after noting that the mark on the upper collar aligned with the apex of the neckline casing and that the more pointed of the two points aligned with the mark on the lower part of the armhole just above the side seam. I included a picture of front yoke pinned to the lower front.



Placement of upper yoke with virtual post-it notes. I did not need to interface the entire piece, but only the corners as Christina S. suggested.

I really appreciate Christina's very helpful review showing pictures of the under collar and upper yoke as one piece and the extension the upper collar that looks like a "mock" collar stand that is hand sewn and tacked to the inside.


Modifications/Variations

Both versions:
*Shortened the sleeve, as printed on the pattern sheet, by 3/4" inch and turned up a 1/2" seam, with 1/4" of raw edge turned under

*Used French seams to finish the side and sleeve seams.

*Used a small safety pin to turn the ties inside out and to thread each through a neckline casing exiting through the little buttonhole.

*Reduced the height of the sleeve cap by 1/2".

Floral top:
Fill my eyes, with that double vision...
*I cut the top collar into two pieces with seam allowances so that each piece has the nearly the same floral design for some symmetry. I was not able to get a mirror image of the butterfly at the upper yoke.


Down on the corner, out in the seams...
*In sewing each shoulder seam where the upper yoke and back meet, I stopped precisely at the corner where the upper yoke and the under collar meet. I minimized the bunching that I encountered in sewing my first version when I attached the undercollar to the back neckline (after sewing its center back seam)

Lady, you bring me up when I'm down, up when I'm down...
* I overlayed a smaller piece of gift wrap tissue paper, and raised the neckline to 2" from the front facing, tapering to 0" at the apex of each lower front piece. I also adjusted the fold line for the neckline casing and the buttonholes through with the ties would pass. In comparing the second with my first shirt, I did not see a significant difference, but it seemed that I did not have to cinch as much to get the neckline at a decent depth.


Conclusion

Since I have already sewn two of these tops, I'll give this pattern a brief time-out. If I do sew this again, I would make a short-sleeved version. The cinched front with the ties and the collar give this top its distinctive styling. If you have this month of BWOF or can get ahold of a copy, give it a try!







Update, March 28, 2009

Modifications
* Used seersucker fabric.
* Replaced front facings/buttonholes with center front seam except at 1 1/2" before the edge of neckline. Folded inward a narrow hem at top center before folding approximately a 3/4" hem for the neckline (with 1/4" of raw edge tucked under).

* Threaded the ties through the casings so that they exit through the front centers instead of from two little buttonholes as in the first and second versions.

* Cut each front separately to achieve chevron design.

* Shortened sleeves. For a "flutter" look, increased each seam by 3/4" from the bottom, tapering to 0" below armscye.


Conclusion
* The top had less ease than expected. I should have increased seam allowance to another 1/4"
* I plan to sew this version in a poly knit and see what happens.
* Versatile pattern. I achieved variations in fit, drape, and style just by changing the fabric and sleeve lengths.