I Heard It Through the Grape Lines, Curves, and Flounces!






Pattern Description
From Burda:
"Shimmering emerald silk satin, a raised waist seam and fluttering tied flounces – this blouse porivides a perfect example of the new feminine Safari Style. Narrow épaulettes (shoulder tabs) and cuffs add sporty counterpoints."

Sing to the music and "The Beat Goes On"...

Chorus
And the flounces go round, the tiers go on
Needles keep pounding a rhythm to the plate,
La de da de de, la de da de da

The bodice posed no outrage, uh huh
Flouncing has turned the page, uh huh
Edging became the thing uh huh
Needle bopping became the king uh huh

Size
34-36-38-40-42.


Fabric
'Peter Max' style mod purple silk (100%) charmeuse from Emma One Sock


Pattern pieces
Front (x2), front band with self-facing (x2), back on fold (x1), flounce (1 pattern piece that is later separated on the cutting layout: upper, middle, and bottom flounce (x2 for each flounce), sleeve (x2), collar on a fold (x2). Shaded regions on layout are reserved for interfacing.

Directions
They were typical Burda lingo. I thought that the bodice went fairly easily (stitch shoulder seams, stitch front and back darts, stitch front bands (look like front facings to me) to the front edges, and creating the collar. The buttonholes were done before the flounces and sleeves. Seam numbers are included in the diagram of the pattern layout which came in handy when putting the pieces together.

But..... the flounces are another story. I was surprised that something really simple turned out to be complicated when done, when actually it was my fault for having that "piece of cake" attitude and not taking more time (which I already have) to really go over the cutting layout because I was so caught up in going over the directions word for word! It all started when not having the common sense to visualize which the upper, middle and lower flounces altogether! The cutting layout really did not help any because the flounces were not labeled adequately, just piece #4, flounce, which were cut on the bias! What happened was that I cut three flounces of the same width, with different lengths, instead of noticeably increasing widths (not very evident in the cutting layout) and different lengths! I was even careful to cut the other half of each flounce by inverting the pattern piece!

After finishing the blouse, I realized that the bottom flounce was the original pattern piece left uncut and the others were cut on the lines provided, being that the middle flounce was larger than the upper flounce.

Anyway, the assembly of the flounces seemed very vague or could have been rewritten. "On the middle and top flounces, turn the left opening alowances to the inside, baste at the top. Lay the middle flounce on the bottom flounce, wrong side to right, the top flounce on the middle flounce, wrong side to right, the top flounce on the middle flounce. Baste top edges together. Leave the opening allowances of the bottom flounce free. Stitch flounces to the bottom edges of front and back..." Huh? A little diagram would have helped here. So it's really easy to just to give up and put the top aside. I then realized that I cut the flounces incorrectly and do not have enough material to redo them! Arghhhh!

It would have helped it Burda put it this way and include an illustration:
Align the top edges of the flounces so that the that the right sides are showing for all pieces and the largest piece is the bottom layer with the smallest piece the upper flounce, giving a tiered effect. Maybe using too many words did not work after all in the flounce section!

Likes/Dislikes
*I like the upper bodice and sleeves.

*A serger would be handy to edge the flounces!

* The three tier flounces were not what I had hoped for. I stopped after the second tier of flounces.

* This top simply did not work for my figure type! I should have followed my initial instinct to do away with the flounces and lengthen the bodice!

Modifications
* The length of the upper bodice was fine, although I preferred it a tad longer. For those with longer torsos, plan to adjust the length accordingly.

* Omitted the size zipper. There was a "helpful hint" section on adding zippers. I also opted for size snaps. Since, I was able to slip the top over my head I sewed up the left side seam originally reserved for the zipper.

* I resorted to "doing my own thing" and attaching the middle layer (folded upper edge) to the already edged top flounce layer. I did not continue with the third flounce.

* I skipped the shoulder tabs and buttons. They would have been easy to add, but I thought they would look better on unprinted fabric.

* I added a front tie.


Conclusion
This is actually a fairly easy top if I had not assumed as I do when working with any of the big 4 patterms! Burda really tested the type of thinkers and learners we are: global vs. analytical. I over analyzed before getting the whole picture!

If I ever do sew this pattern again, I would skip the flounces and redraft a slightly aline lower bodice. Otherwise, this top is easy to construct and to modify.

I'll reserve the flounces for skirts or for the lower edges of dresses!

This blouse did not work for me, but would certainly work for another! ;-}

Raven and Clover, Over and Over!


Once I saw the jacket from the Vogue Patterns website, I just had to get and make this!




Once I saw this Vogue 8491 pattern from the Vogue Patterns online site, I picked it up from the most recent JoAnn's sale! Lesson learned: Better to buy a few cool styles from a Vogue pattern sale online for a few dollars extra per pattern than spending much more than expected at JA's!


Pattern Description
"Misses/Misses' petite jacket, belt and dress: Semi-fitted, lined jacket with above elbow length sleeves, button closing and belt. Close-fitting, sleeveless, lined dress with darts, back zipper and slit opening." I made the jacket.


Size
Size 8-10-12. I really hoped to find the envelope with the next sizes up! Either somebody beat me to it or there were others that were misfiled! I took a leap of faith and cut out a 12. Semi-fitted as described? Vogue misled me and should have printed semi loose or about semi tent! Fortunately the belt pulled the jacket's look together.


Fabric
Cotton with slight stretch from Gorgeous Fabrics.
Dress with clover power!


Reactions to Pattern

* The front princess seams went together fine and constructing the raglan style sleeves were a pleasant reprieve from easing and setting in sleeves!

* I really like the belted look of this jacket and slightly bell sleeves. This is quite a change of scenery from the "poofy" sleeve top that I constructed recently.

* I liked the length of the jacket on me. I did not have to make any adjustments.

* I am still sort of in a quandary about the large lapels and the collarless neck maybe because I'm accustomed to wearing the "blazer" look: neck collar and lapel.

* I think Vogue mislabled the sewing level! I agree with the adjective easy, maybe because there are no sleeves to ease and set in the armscye and collar to assemble, but words "time consuming" should be included!

* Whoa, the jacket is more roomy than expected, even when I went down by a size! Fortunately there is a belt to cinch the waistline.



Directions

They were brief, to the point, and easy to follow. The illustrations were alongside the steps which were very helpful and speak for themselves. I found it helpful to mark on the wrong side of the fabric ("SLF", "SLB"), or put a colored dot stickie to distinguish among the FRONT and BACK sleeves pieces (their silhouettes look identical, except for the notches, if I had cut them well enough!). The directions assumed the that you know how to do basic techniques. For instance, Vogue assumes you know how to make buttonholes and slipstitch. Clipping curves at the princess seams is probably assumed that the sewist knows also since it was not mentioned.

Constructing lining starts with sewing the fabric facings with the side fronts and the rest is constructed the way as in the original jacket. Then the lining is placed right sides together with the original jacket and sewn at the outer edges, leaving a large enough gap at the lower hem to turn the jacket inside out, which I call the "quick and dirty" way to line a jacket. I would rather "bag" the lining for a more smoother finish especially at the bottom hem, where the lining tends to "peek" out, which I temporarily resolved with my handy dandy iron and tacking stitches.


Modifications
* I added another 1 1/2" to the belt length.
* I raised the lower button placement so that it is above the wrap around area.
* Since I was working with a print, I did my best to match the left and right fronts. I can see why I would next time add myself to the list of people who dread working with prints because of taking the time to align the prints of pieces sewn together to achieve fashion symmetry. Coincidentally, the top button placement nearly coincided with a certain part of the print that would look aesthetically and geometrically ideal, (buttonholes, buttons placed inside a printed shape instead of "on" its edges)


Conclusion
Very easy??? I recommend that the big 4 (even Burda does this!) come up with a category for "easy, but time consuming"! I do recommend this pattern because it is really straightforward to sew and for its distinctive styling, but for now one of these will do for me now! I plan to make the dress sometime soon.

McCall Me Mellow Yellow!

I just completed my vibrant version of McCall's ruffled shirt!


Ruffles are "in"!









Yeah! I finally completed my blouse for the fitted blouse contest on PR!

Maybe it is not as top notch as the other entries, but at least I gave myself credit for working on a blouse with 6 panels below the upper bodice, a ruffled front, a shaped lower hem, and cuffed balloon sleeves! I do not have the fitting expertise as many members do. That's just something that comes with more time, willingness, and patience. Also it would be hard to "figure" out consistent alterations, if I choose to alter my figure by losing weight.

I was hesitant to enter this in the fitted blouse contest because of the silly goofs I made in this blouse with $16/yd fabric, but I thought I would motivate myself and get it completed anyway. I think of the contests as motivation to do something I have not done in awhile or have never done. I was so unsuccessful with a blouse that consisted of several lower panels (Butterick 4985) that I mustered up the courage to try this McCall's from my stash.

This is labeled "4 One easy pattern", which is misleading because McCall's has easier patterns that are not labeled as such. I would label this as "easy, but somewhat time consuming."

Just when I pulled out this pattern, I see a number of ruffled tops online!
Ruffled front top by Pink Tartan at Nordy's

MARC by Marc Jacobs Ruffled Bib Tank


Pattern Description
"Shirts have front gathers, princess seams with topstitching, front bands, collar (stand up or pointy collar with collar band) and sleeve options) and sleeve variations (bubble, gathered with cuffs, pleated with cuffs)....." I sewed view B that has the ruffled front, gathered sleeves with cuffs, and the collar with the collar band.

Size
Misses' 12-14-16-18-20 with separate pieces for A/B, C, D cup sizes. I sewed a 14, cup C.

Fabric
From EmmaOneSock, a Dolce and Gabbana fun flowery print in cotton. "From Dolce & Gabbana, made in Italy, this is an exquisite cotton lawn with a lovely floral in brighter and softer yellow, a sprinkling of muted orange, with outlines in greenish-black."

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, except my sleeves billowed out more!

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes and the illustrations helped. However, there was an error on my pattern piece #5, which was labeled lower back which should be lower "front." It was easy to discover this from the layout and the directions. I am uncertain as to whether McCall's corrected this in subsequent versions.

It's been awhile since I have sewed a blouse with these many pieces! They were the upper front (x2) and upper back bodice (x1), lower front (x2), lower side front (x2), lower side back (x2),lower center back (x1), front band (x2), ruffle (x2), sleeve (x2), sleeve cuffs (x2), collar (x2), collar band (x2). I interfaced the bands, the sleeve cuffs, one piece of the collar band and both of the collar pieces (instead of just one to add more stability) with a lightweight fusible. Although the cutting took some time, the pieces fit together nicely as they were sewed in each step.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Overall, I like the princess seams and the ruffled front.

This is the first top I made that more closely resembles a tuxedo shirt due to the ruffles in the front which were very easy to make. One end of each ruffle is gathered and the other has a narrow hem. Each front band is then attached along raw edges of the ruffle and front edge of the shirt, right sides together and turned in prior to topstitching or hand sewing.

I like the options for cup sizing. I sewed a "C" to be on safe side, although one side of me is a "B".

I like the simple collar/collar band construction. I have to constantly remind myself that the collar is inserted between the two collar band pieces prior to stitching them together since I am used to collars without the band. except it seems a tad larger than what I expected. McCall's seems to draft collars larger than what are on the pattern envelopes, from my experience with current patterns and patterns from several years ago.

Whoa, talk about sleeves that made me think I could fly in the air! The ones illustrated on the envelope suggest otherwise. If I ever sew another version of this blouse I would decrease the circumference of the sleeves. They add a certain character to the blouse, but I'll just have one version.

Escada top with puffy sleeves, but not as puffy as mine!


Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I found it strange that there was a 12/14 size on each lower piece! I added 1/8" seam allowance to each lower panel of the shirt and the side seams because I did not want to take away too much from the ruching/gathering below the bustline. This helped somewhat, and of course silly me, was remiss in placing the needle on the front band resulted in stitching the first buttonhole off-center and so, instead of ripping out stitches, I stitched the other four buttonholes in the same way. Maybe I did this subliminally thus increasing the width of each front band by 1/2", making the blouse less snug. I would have preferred to make other modifications, but I do not want to spend more time on already a multi-pieced lower bodice.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Maybe one more in a few months or so. This as an easy pattern which I would recommend to sewists who have experience with collared and button-down shirts. I found this top straighforward to make, but somewhat time consuming (one evening and one afternoon of sewing time).


Conclusion:
This is a stylish and versatile shirt with collar and sleeve variations.