Technical drawing of blouse:
First version:
"You Spin Me round, round, round like a record, baby!
Second version:
"You're on CBS!"
First version
Technical drawing of blouse
Anne Klein blouse with front tie and printed circles
Pattern Description
Tie front blouse with ruching in the center front by the tie and long sleeves
The "Duh" Burda Code
Hip, hip, hooray! I finally sewed my first official Burda WOF pattern! It was probably the easiest pattern from the September 2007 issue. I enjoyed reading the reviews and seeing the projects from the PRers who previously reviewed this pattern.
Although I sewed with Burda commercial patterns before, the Burda WOF patterns do not come with illustrations besides the technical drawings and layouts. The sparse directions can contribute to the "duh?" and then the "aha!" moments. I am at the start of my learning curve to master the Burda code!
Being E"spatial"y Patient
I was confused for the first time looking at the pattern layouts! Various types of lines (dotted, solid, alternating circles/dashes, etc) are overlapping each other all over the large sheet! The colored numbers at the top and bottom margins line up with the corresponding numbers that refer to the specific pattern pieces that are printed somewhere alongside them. This reminds me of an interesting form of mapreading without the gridlines!
I purchased three Burda Moden pattern magazines from the 60's and 70's and they are so much more convoluted (like colored pick up sticks strewn all over the place!!) than the current patterns! The vintage Burda magazine patterns layout have more pattern reference numbers on the margins, more color coded markings (beyond the dotted, solid, i.e. wavy) and so many patterns overlapping, enough to cause severe eyestrain!
Paper or Plastic?
For those desperately finding an alternative to tracing paper (I had some at one time at home). I finally figured out a use for those ever growing number of white plastic grocery/shopping bags (Vons, Ralphs, Target, etc) stashed in my kitchen somewhere. Yup, you guessed it, the cheap, but "green" alternative to tracing paper! Wow, I could easily see and trace the lines beneath a bag! I snipped the bags to have them lie flat, cutting across the creases and traced what I can with a black sharpie pen over the pattern outlines. Then if the tracing surpasses the piece of plastic, I tape on another piece, continuing where I left off. What's nice is that the plastic clings nicely to the fabric while cutting! I even used a huge K-B toystore bag to trace out a pattern piece for the front of a coat!
Sizing
Multi-sized 36-46. I sewed a 42, according to my measurements. Although I forgot to add the seam allowances, it blouse fits fine.
Fabric
Both versions are nice jersey knits from Gorgeous Fabrics. The "CBS network" looking fabric appears to be sold out.
Directions
They consisted of very brief and vague statements (i.e. Stitch shoulder seams...)I was perplexed by unclear directions on how to attach and finish the collar ties. A diagram would help immensely because I was not clear as to how Burda wanted the tie collar attached to the neck. Burda's verbage: "Stitch collar to the neck, leaving the tie bands free from tne marking. Fold collar lengthways, right side in, leaving the tie bands free from the marking. Stitch tie band edges together. Trim seam allowances, cut corners off. Turn and press ties. Press joining seam on the collar. Turn in inner collar edge and sew to the joining seam. " Questions that popped in my mind, "Tie bands, or the ends of the collar meant for tying or making a cute bow?....Sew to the joining seam?...." If Heather had her digital camera, she would have savored the opportunity to capture my "duh, what in the world?" expression! I had to ponder carefully what I was going to do next.
My interpretation:
After sewing the collar to the neckline while making sure that the collar tie's center seam aligned with the center back of the top, I folded each of the tie ends, right sides together and stitched the seam from the front center of the blouse (where the neckline ruching starts) to the ends of the ties and turned the ties inside out. Then I folded the collar inward, with the raw edge tucked underneath, and stitched close to the edge so that on the outside the stitching would appear very close to the seamline where the collar and neckline meet. I wonder if there is an existence of the phrase "instinctual sewing."
Likes, dislikes
*I like the style with the tie front, a modern day interpretation of secretarial blouse.
*Easy to construct
*Pattern consists of only four pattern pieces: front, back, sleeve, and tie collar!
*I forgot to add the side seam allowances and to lengthen the sleeves by 1" for my arms! But I was glad that I omitted the side seam allowances because the blouse is still somewhat roomy.
*The neckline came lower than expected. Fortunately I could bring the neckline up a little by pulling and tightening the ties. If I make this again, I'll raise the neckline another 1/2".
Modifications
* I sewed the sleeves in flat. Why set in sleeves for knits?
* It seems as if there was a lot ease in the top of the sleeves. I trimmed 3/4" from the top edge, tapering to the sides.
* I added 1 1/2" to the length of the sleeves for the second version after forgetting to do it to the first version.
Conclusion
The gathering in the front is a nice feature of this blouse and overall this blouse would flatter all figure types! So far, I have been impressed with Burda commercial patterns due to that distinctive and flattering fit that I could not acquire from the Big 4 and it seems like Burda WOF would be no exception. If you can get ahold of this September 2007 issue (lots of great stuff!), I definitely recommend making this blouse as a first Burda WOF project or as a very versatile and trendy top!
