McCall of the Wild from 2001

 "Jungle January" hosted by Anne of  Pretty Grievances provided me the inspiration to use a leopard spotted crinkly poly woven that has been in my fabric stash for 9 months. This pattern has been in my stash for awhile (since 2001).  I purchased it due to view "A" in the animal print.

Pattern Description:
From 2001 (out of print): Pullover or wrap front top, with front darts, sleeveless, long or three-quarter length sleeve variations, neck and sleeve flounce options.  I sewed view "A" in a medium.


Instructions
They were satisfactory for view "A".  It was mentioned by Debbie Cook and Skye  (in their pattern reviews in patternreview.com) of the horrible directions for the view with the neckline ruffle.   As for view "A", I was able to sew it minimal guidance after a quick glance of the diagrams and skimming the directions.

Fabric Used:
Crinkled polyester (acetate/poly blend) from gorgeousfabrics.com.

Favorite Features
 I like view "A" due do its simplicity in construction, the front tie detail and ruffled sleeve flounces.

Not-so Favorite Features
The only thing I dislikes are excessive ease of the sleevehead,and the neckline finished with an interfaced facing.  I wish I had reduced the diameter of the circular sleeve flounces to reduce the "flare".  The hole to be cut at the center of the flounce piece would need to be cut wider to accommodate larger hands and wrists.  If my hands and wrists were any larger, I would have struggled slipping them past the lower edges of the sleeves that lead into the ruffled sleeve cuffs.


Alterations/Modifications

* Performed my typical narrowing of the upper back and a 3/4" petite adjustment at the waist.

 

* Trimmed the neckline facing (back facing flanked by two fronts) and converted them to strip 1 1/4" wide to encircle the neckline.  I stitched it 3/8" to the inner edge, turned it to the outside, pressed under a tiny hem and topstitched.  I added a center seam at the "v" point after topstitching the trim to the neckline.  I basted the front ties to the inner edge instead of the outer edge (per McCall's) before attaching the strip trim. 

* Instead of hemming the circular hem of each sleeve flounce, I cut an additional pair of the sleeve flounce circles in the same fabric to "self-face" each flounce.

* I took in the side seams an additional 1/4"

* Had to machine gather the lower edge of the sleeves to ease the sleeve flounce (the center hole of the flounce piece) onto the sleeves.

Future Plans/Conclusion:
I plan to sew another top from the same view . Despite the mediocre directions, I still recommend the pattern due to its fairly simple construction and the styles still being on trend. I spent more time with the neckline than expected due to drifting from the directions regarding the neckline and fiddling with the sleeve flounces.


Current tops with the front tie detail.  The Pucci top at the lower right has the flounced sleeve cuffs.

 

Making Waves with a McCall's 6844 Cardigan

Shawl collared cardigans........



It has been about 3 months since I worked on the sewing machine. Due to the many positive reviews of McCall's 6844, I was confident to try it.

Here is the peplum version with a slight "high-low" hem, that I did not sew. It is lovely, but peplums are unpredictable on me.
 

 Description: Misses/Miss Petite Cardigans: Close fitting cardigans (do not meet at center front) have collar extending int front band and narrow hem; A, C: Shaped hemline, wrong side shows. I sewed view "B".

 Size: XSm-Sml-Med, L-XL-XXL. I sewed a medium.

Fabric: Approximately 1 5/8 yards of "yarn-dyed serpentine-striped" from EOS that was in my stash for 21 months. Thank goodness it does not fray, which makes sewing with this lightweight knit a breeze.  I did the best I could with the continuity of the waves along the seams.

 

Likes:
(1) I agree with the "EASY" label, especially with view "B" not having the peplum.

(2) The flattering slight "flare" along the sides and the fit, neither snug or nor loose. The ease for me was sufficient for me not to wear a belt.

 (3) Instant chic: The style allows the cardigan to be casual, dramatic or elegant depending on the fabric you choose, and/or the accessories you wear.


Dislikes: I cannot think of any dislikes except for the back came which out looser than I had anticipated, and possibly due to the draping nature of the knit that I used, or the drafting.

 

 Directions:
They were easy to follow, with minor changes in the sequencing to further simplify the construction.

Summarizing the steps that were all printed on one two-sided sheet:
(1) Stitch the shoulder seams

(2) Attach the sleeves flat (instead of the side seams first and setting in the sleeves per the instructions) and hem the sleeves

(3) Stitch as one continuous seam the sleeve seam and side seam on both sides.

(4) Stitch the collar/front band at the center seam , stitch its facing in the same fabric along the un-notched edges and lower edges, right sides together, and turn the entire piece inside.

(5) Attach the front band to the front, right sides together, and hem the entire cardigan. I am not sure if would have been better to hem the fronts and back before attaching the front facing as instructed.



Alterations/Modifications 
I performed my typical narrowing at the upper back and 1" petite adjustment at the waist (using the marked petite adjustment line on the pattern),.

Stabilized the shoulder seams with a strip of interfacing prior to stitching.

Omitted interfacing the collar/front band.

Stitched the sleeves flat to the armholes. I did not encounter any problems easing the sleeve onto the edges of the armholes. I trimmed at most 3/8" from the sleeve cap's height after machine basting.

 Omitted the topstitching of the collar due to the "airy" nature of the knit. I just let the front drape "naturally" on its own.


Conclusion:
Without interruptions, this cardigan took me approximately 3 1/2 hours of sewing time (no serger), or simply one full evening.

McCall's 6844, already a popular pattern in Pattern Review and I can understand why. Not only that it is easy to sew and flattering, it has the potential to be addictive. I highly recommend this pattern for all levels of sewers/sewists.

Already my sewing mojo is returning. Of course, another cardigan is on my sewing queue.

I like Missoni, in general, but  I would have to spend a little over $700 to get these "lurex waves".

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