Saturday, May 18, 2013

Missed the Twist

I sewed a top from this pattern before my "lipstick tubes-printed" top from Kwik Sew 2694.

 Twisted


Sizing:  Misses XS-S-M-L-XL. I sewed a "M" at the shoulders, tapering to a "L" at the hips.  


Fabric : A  French soft "stylized knit" from EOS.  As a quick fix for a very low neckline, I tacked the center 2" above the "twist".
Fleurs Bleues



Instructions They are understandable as typical of a Kwik Sew pattern.  As usual the diagrams nicely supplement already the straightforward instructions.  



Favorite/Not-So-Favorite Features
I like that it was simple to sew and that the twist top style seems to be here to stay. The things that I am not fond of are the truly low depth of the neckline and the potential of the neckline hem showing at the "twist" (which can be resolved by self-facing the upper or bodice portion of the fronts. I was hoping that the neckline would be at an appropriate level to obviate the need for a tank or camisole underneath. To avoid indecent exposure, I had to tack the neckline 2 inches above the "twist", which also resulted in bringing upper sleeve seams "inward", thus narrowing the upper front.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 
I performed my typical 3/4" petite adjustment at the waist and narrowing the upper back by taking out 3/8' from the center back seam tapering to 0" above the waist.

Fleurs Bleues



Future Plans/Recommendations
I am not sure if I will sew this pattern again. 

 Butterick 5283 Twist Tops

 Giraffic Park


  and Jalie 2788 twist tops.
Jalie 2788 Twist Front Tops
 Oh Pebbles and Wilma, I'm Home!

However, this Kwik Sew top makes a nice quick gratification project and can easily be a TNT after making any necessary customized alterations.  

Fleurs Bleues



Conclusion: I wish I had read Margaret's review (from patternreview.com) that nicely detailed raising the neckline and the under bust.

Saturday, May 11, 2013

Come Pep-tember with Vogue 8815

Peplum tops are still trending on-line and off-line.

A DKNY silk/elastane top from Saksfifthavenue.com
 DKNY Peplum Top


Three months ago at a local Macy's, Heather posing next to a cats-printed top with a price tag of $150, if I recall correctly.
Catty-ness


Vogue 8815:

Misses' fitted tops with raised waist and hem-line variations, narrow hem. I sewed view "B" with the nearly elbow-length sleeves and back zipper. 
I sewed a "12" at the shoulders, tapering to a "14" at the hips.

 Pep-pep-pep Hurray!
 

Favorite and Not-Sew-Favorite Features
I like that the peplum is proportional with respect to the bodice and how it appears on my figure. The peplum neither hugs my hips nor extensively "flares out".   Using a print, I did not notice if there was something strange about the top tips of the vertical bust darts. The upper back edge of the top comes somewhat high at the neckline. As for the front and back bodice, I did not need to make my usual petite adjustment at the waist. So, if you are not short-waisted as myself, you might have to lengthen the bodice. 


I used a  cotton twill from a previous project.

Come Pep-tember
 

From 2 years ago,  a Simplicity 2373 cropped jacket in the same fabric.
Olive-ia Newton-Frond


Two months ago, I sewed a peplum top sewn New Look 6130.  I really did not like this top on me.  The front neckline was loose and although the peplum skirt looked lovely on the model, I did not like it that much on me.

 New Look 6130


Peplumdicular


Now "back" to Vogue 8815:
Zippy

Alterations/Modifications
*Narrowed the upper back from the center /3/8", tapering to 0" above the waistline


*Shorened the sleeves nearly 2 1/2" because the original length did not seem to be flattering.

* There was quite a bit of
tease when attaching the sleeves. I removed at most nearly 1" from the top edge of each sleeve head.

*To finish the neckline and lower edge of the peplum, I used lace hem tape which worked so well with this nearly circular type of hem. I sewed one edge of the lace at a 1.4" seam allowance to the right side of the edge and turned it over and tucking beneath prior to top-stitching. I did not experience the "crinkled hem" that I typically experience from folding a narrow hem and top-stitching.
Edgy

 

Future Plans/Recommendations:
My fear of making and wearing peplums has dissippated! I can see why this top has become a favorite at patternreview.com.

 Pep-tember


This MSGM top from farfetch.com looks very much like view "B" from Vogue 8815, except that the peplum appears shorter.
MSGM Top

Happy Mother's Day and Happy Sewing!

Saturday, May 04, 2013

Some "Kwik" Cosmetic Sew-gery

I purchased at the McCalls pattern website on sale before they became discontinued.

Desccription
"Misses close-fitting pullover tops have deep V-neckline, overlapped front, and neckline edge finished with narrow hem.  View A has three-quarter length sleeves.  View B has empire waist
nd short sleeves."  The sizes are XS-S-M-L-XL.

I anticipate close-fitting to be "tight" especially with the type of knit I used and Kwik Sew's recommended 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowance (I prefer sewing a 1/2"-5/8" seam allowance), and I don't feel comfortable wearing body-hugging outfits.  I sewed a "M" at the shoulders, tapering to a "L" at the hips.



 Knit Fit

Note the  adjective "deep" in boldface.  On me, it came "very" deep...
Cosmetic Sew-gery


Instructions
They were direct, clear, and so were the diagrams. All come in a convenient, brochure style page (front and back), folded in thirds.

 I also liked the "recommended sewing procedures" or some helpful tips that came after the layout diagrams and before the instructions for both views.   Such tips include the types of thread (cotton or synthetic), types of needle (11/75 or 12/80 ballpoints), and types of stitches (reverse cycle, zig zag, straight stitch, serger/overlock).


Favorite and Not-Sew-Favorite Features
I like the classic front cross-over style at the bust and the empire seam that came about 2" above my waistline, thus evading a "matronly" style.  My only reservations are the really low neckline (serious competition with typical Burda patterns).   I wish I had lengthened the top 1" at the lower edge.  So if you are not short-waisted, you might have to watch for the length. There is nothing really much to dislike about this pattern.  See the 100 + reviews for yourself on Patternreview.com!


Fabric Used:
"Just Cavalli" signature knit jersey with arrays of lipsticks...
Just Cavalli Signature Jersey



Alterations
* 3/4" petite adjustment at the adjustment line
* narrow the upper back 3/8" from center back seam (3/4" width)
* tack the center front to prevent some "indecent exposure"

Kwik Sew 2694 knit top

Recommendations
 Yes. I am planning to sew more and I highly recommend this top for its faux wrap style that flatters every figure and for its simplicity in construction.  I can easily imagine this as a quick gratification project.

Definitely sew this one, if you have this pattern and have not tried it.  Before you know it, you will want MORE than one...

Wearing Lots of Lip-stick

Thank you for visiting!