Friday, December 26, 2008

May All Your Christmases Be Very Merry and Bright


Heather in her kinder school picture from this past August and her aunt Jenny (my sister) in third grade circa 1980, 1981? Her picture slightly discolored over the years. I'll look though more of my parents' photo albums. Jenny's first grade picture looks even more like Heather's photo!





Christmas was fun this year! My favorite activity was decorating our tree this year. I asked my mom if we could have more ornaments (beyond the Dora the Explorer, Sesame Street, and Blues' Clues ones). I selected a Virgin Mary ornament and a transparent fish ornament.




I made a present for my mom and dad at school, a "Peace on Earth 2008" frame with puzzle pieces glued to it (get it, peace, piece?) and in the middle a picture of me next to a globe taken by Mrs Brown. My mom gave me a big, big hug and proudly displayed it on the fridge, along with my other artwork (there was a magnet piece on the back).

I like things that captivate the vivacity and spirit of this holiday season such as...


the wild colors and design of my new coat that my mom made me. It is now one of my favorites. Wearing bold colors cheers me up and hopefully cheers others. In some cases, maybe shock others, especially when many people choose to wear dark and drab colors.




Hello Kitty's guitar in this t-shirt that lights up by detecting motion.


The twinkly colored lights on my grandparents' tree representing all of the beautiful colors shining from all branches of the world united in one tree, the guiding light of the universe.





Festive red, a popular holiday color!


The bold Barbie pink dress that my Godmother/Aunt Jennifer gave me with my favorite stylish cat, Hello Kitty.


It was really fabulous (as Ashley Tisdale or Sharpay from HSM would point out) to receive lots of cool gifts. My mom asked me what the best present that I received is and always will be every day of the year, not just one, but MANY big hugs! Of course it is cool to give a big hug just as to receive one!

Love,
Heather

Monday, December 22, 2008

Bolt of Colors!!



I wanted to make something for Heather that I have not made yet, a lined coat or jacket. She selected this pattern about a month ago for me to purchase when we were at JoAnn's.

I could tell Heather wanted to have an outfit in the same fabric of my dress that I made just recently. She did not have to tell me directly.










This is officially the first lined jacket I sewed for Heather. I originally intended to give this to her all wrapped up for Christmas. Instead this became the "early" present. She enjoys partipating as much as she can in the sewing process (cutting, pinning, pedalling, etc). I wanted to have her try it on (is it done yet, mom?) to determine how it fits her.


Pattern Description
From the Project Runway series: "Child's and Girls' coat jacket and hat". My description for this pattern: Girls' coat jackets with front and back yoke, double breasted feature and length and sleeve variations.

The pattern includes the croquis or sketch feature that allows you to select which design element such as the length of sleeves (long or three-quarters) along with the type of sleeve finishing (vertical tab and button, ruffled, band with button at end). I prefer the traditional way of patterns showing several views (A, B, C, etc) each with their unique design features already incorporated, while still having the flexibility to morph design features from two or more views. I found it a somewhat inconvenient to have cutting layouts separate for each design element instead of typically showing all the pattern pieces for a particular style.

Size
Girls' 3-4-5-6. I sewed a size 6 for my 5 y.o. daughter.


Fabric
Printed cotton twill with some stretch from the Fashion Fabrics Club.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, for the most part, except for the vibrant fabric I used.

Favorite Features
* Pea coat style
* Pleated front and back
* Front and back yokes
* Sleeve variations: I sewed the three-quarter length sleeved version with a ruffled band or cuff on the bottom. In fact the cuff was really not ruffled. It really consists of 4 pleats made opposite the seam of the band.


Other Issues
* Directions for the lining are sparse. Some day soon I plan to study and use methods suggested by our fellow PRs instead of the simple version of "bagging the lining".

* I become apprehensive when attaching the upper collar to the lower collar (in the process of lining the jacket), at the large dots that transition to the neck seam and the front facing. I had to pay closer attention while pivoting at the large dots where the collar joins the neck seam. Yes, I confess, I am all to familiar with the bunching or puffiness of the collar at the neck seam!


Directions
*Overall they were sufficient and the illustrations were easy to decipher (except for the section on attaching the lining). It helps to read through the directions, noting the boldface titles of the design elements of interest (i.e. "...for coat", ".... for jacket,","long sleeves and sleeve tab", "three-quarter length sleeves") and following those steps. Otherwise, the steps apply to all of the given styles (i.e. "continue as follows for any coat or jacket").

*A note of CAUTION on making the pleats: make them from the correct or right side of the fabric. Oops! I did the front and back sections from the wrong side of the fabric (where I marked the pleats. But overall, such goof did not affect the overall style of the jacket. In fact, I like the way the back looks where the there is a center fold, flanked by a pleat. Otherwise, there would be an inverted-looking pleat at the center.

*The lining is constructed the same way as the outside of the jacket in terms of the back and yoke back except that the front consists of the front facings each to be attached to front lining piece. I had to take out two pleats so that the back yoke lining (cut on the bias) would not extend much beyond the span of the upper edge of the lower back.

* The directions for attaching the lining to the coat/jacket were sparse. The illustrations for adding the lining were unclear and insufficient.

* There seemed to be an error in the illustration showing the edge of the front facing being stitched horizontally, 1 1/2" from the lowest edge of the jacket. It was supposed to show the front facing, interfaced side up, right sides together with the front edge

*After the first fitting, my daughter felt constricted at the neck area (She does not like feeling constricted. Pullover sweaters are not her cups of tea. She's been like this since she born. I recall so vividly when she constantly freed herself from her blanket, arms and hands pop out, after being bundled for warmth and security). The space between the two ends of the collar, the front segment of the neckline, seemed to be a tad narrower in relation to the corresponding portions of the jackets on the pattern envelope. I could have used a smaller seam allowance when attaching the front facings, but details like this and more would be discovered after sewing the first version of this pattern. To lessen the constriction around my daughter's neck, I marked the points for the hidden snaps about a centimeter towards the center, thus making the yoke at the closure area a little off-center.


Modifications
*Used hidden snaps. I might revert to buttonholes. Heather had some difficulty aligning and securing the snaps.
*Used wild fabric



Conclusion
I recommend this pattern for a stylish coat or jacket for the little ladies you know. Since I am not a "speedy" sewist and tend to "overthink" things, I spent well over 10 hours on Heather's jacket. All the time and work are worth it to get a big hug and lots of smiles!

Saturday, December 20, 2008

Rhythm Notion



It must be the color, style, combined with the silver shiny buttons that made me have flashbacks of Janet Jackson dancing in her "Rhythm Nation" video. Wow, performers actually sung about songs with a meaningful message and danced to great choreography back then. Fast forward 19 years and I'm seeing various versions of Janet's military style jacket popping up in the current fashion scene.


Britney, Cristina, Beyonce.... what have you SEWN for us lately?

Pattern Description
A "2 hour fashion express" pattern: Unlined, semi-fitted above wait jacket has dolman sleeves with length variations and with or without collar. View A has snap closure at neck. View B has double-breasted, buttom and buttonhole closures. View C has front tabs with buckle without prong, front hook and eye closures.

Size
Misses' 8-10-12-14. I sewed a "14".

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Somewhat, except mine screamed 80's/early 90's. There's not much talent, fun, and innovation in the pop current scene, Composer/musician/singer Alicia Keys is a notable exception. Nostalgia has been setting in as I get older.
While sewing this jacket, I might have been hearing in the corners of my mind a much younger and cuter Simon Le Bon singing "Please, please sew me now, is there something I should SEW?" and wearing that oh-so-80's white jacket.


Favorite Features
*Cropped style although I would have preferred it an inch longer.
*3/4 length sleeves
*Few pattern pieces to work with (front, back, collar, front facing, back facing)
*Contoured back seam, which flatters the back and sides. I'll keep this feature in mind to morph this with my other favorite short jacket patterns.
*Boxy upper look that tapers to the waistline, if you ignore the sleeves.


Other Features
*Needs more than the one snap closure that is attached below the wearer's left side. To keep the fronts from flapping out and sliding (or a jacket malfunction), there should be one below the wearer's right neck, and one on the wearer's lower left.

*The sleeves are a bit baggy and unstructured for my taste. Maybe it stems from the nature of dolman sleeves that flare out at the ends. I recall dolman sleeves typical of 80's fashions. I discovered a helpful and interesting SEW NEWS glossary of types of sleeves

*"2-hour" finishing time is a bit misleading, especially for those who are not "speedy" and prefer to finish the seams. I slipstitched the bottom hem after pressing 1 1/4" hem with a scant 1/8" machine-stitched hem. Maybe my eyes deceived me, but I did not find the directions on how to finish the sleeve hems. I turned in a 1/4" machine-stitched hem and slipstitched a 2" hem.

*Positioning the asymmetric collar to look as close to the picture on the envelope took some time.


Fabric
Denim colored cotton poplin, great for muslins.


Directions
That's the way this pattern SEWS...
They are easy to follow and brief with more than decent illustrations. The neckline and that of the facing (each front facing is connected to each end of the back facing) are staystitched. I made sure that I transferred the notches and markings (dots, squares, and triangles) to the collar pieces and the neckline.

Missed it much, I missed it by SEW much
I had to temporarily detach myself from my habit of "centering the collar" at the neckline. I spent the longest time getting the collar to be asymmetric as featured on the envelope and in the illustrations while aligning the corresponding markings to the neckline! After comparing collar to the original pattern piece in terms of the markings and the length taking into account the seams, I did not find serious discrepancies. I eased the neckline a little by using loose and long machine stitches. I basted the collar to the neckline so that the marked triangles align at the shoulder seams and the notches align (one was closer to the wearer's right front edge and the other was further in distance from the wearer's left front edge).

I did not experience difficulty while attaching the front facings to the front edges of the jacket. I iron pressed the back facing to the inside and tacked it to the inside to prevent it from flopping about. The tricky part was where to sew the snap on the wearer's left side so that it does not interfere with the left collar just above it. I spent an inordinate amount of time situating the snap so that the the left collar does not get bunched above the corner where the snap would be. Due to the nature of the fabric coupled with fusible interfacing, my collar is rigid, which made things more bearable. However, I foresee the collar being floppy or bulky with other types of fabric.

Modifications
They're all part of the Rhythm Notions
*Added three hexagonal buttons
*Need to add a snap at the bottom to prevent some sort of jacket "malfunction".
*Shortened the sleeves by 2".


Conclusion
Let's SEW Awhile
I did not have a "2 hour express" experience with this pattern. It was actually more like a "5 hour escapade!" I do highly recommend this pattern for its simplicity and stylishness. I don't plan to sew this asymmetrically collared style in the near future. However, I plan to sew the version with the stand up collar for my sister.

Friday, December 19, 2008

Little Superstar Citizens!!!

I was very happy to attend the kindergarten super citizen assembly or the kinder awards assembly at Heather's school. What parent would not be proud and excited to witness his/her child receive an award for doing well in school? Song and dance performances by the children were cute and sweet, but they seemed to be going on for eternity as I patiently await for the actual presentation of the awards!

Heather received her "15-week" super citizen ribbon and a pencil grip for being a super citizen for 20 weeks. She had received the 10-week certificate from an earlier assembly that I did not attend. It's nice that nearly everyone, if not everyone received an award. Then mysteriously in high school the athletes receive over-recognition, even those that do not have stellar academic achievement. It is very heartwrenching that many students do not receive positive acknowledgement and awards for excellent scholastic performance and/or being a well-behaved student.

There's Heather returning to her line after eagerly picking up her awards from the principal.



Tuesday, December 16, 2008

For It's a Jolly Good Red, Black, and Yellow




Ah....the 90's and still a happy time. Baywatch, Seinfeld, Home Improvement, The Nanny, Mariah Carey singing at her best, and The Fresh Prince of Bel Air.

Two fears I want to overcome: (1) bounded buttonholes and (2) fully lined dress. I already have tackled fear #1 when I made my 60's Fabiani dress. Now it is about time tackle fear #2. The only time I sewed a lining for a dress was when I sewed Heather's retro 40's dress. I actually have not sewn a fully lined dress for myself.

This is officially my first fully lined dress!



Pattern Description
From 1997, "Misses' lined dresses: Fitted dress has darts and back zipper; view B is sleeveless with front yoke that forms opening." I won this pattern for a dollar at e*ay.


Size
12-14-16. I sewed a 14. I should have sized down to a 12! I could have done away with the zipper!


Fabric Used
Pucci-esque printed cotton with slight stretch from Fashion Fabrics Club.


Favorite Features
*Elliptical opening below yoke
*Curved silhouette
*Fully lined
*Darts at sides of bust
*60's retro style. I recall seeing a 60's vintage pattern with similar details.
*Few pattern pieces to work with: front yoke, front (below yoke), back.


Not-so-favorite features
*Not as fitted as appears on the envelope
*More ease than expected
*Construction of the shoulder seams. The front and back are joined at the shoulders well after attaching the lining and zipper. Joining the front yoke and the back at the shoulders was challenging due to the limited length of the edges to sew together with the lining attached. The edges of the lining are slipstitched.


Directions
The directions and illustrations were clear and straightforward. This is really an easy dress. The lining just adds a little more challenge. Once one section was sewn, the corresponding lining was sewn the same way.

The side bust darts are created by pinning each slash along the stitch lines given in the pattern piece.

There was staystitching at the necklines, armholes, and between the marked circles at the yoke and the upper edge of the front (below the yoke).

I opened out the yoke and bottom linings to sew them together and to sew their corresponding fabric pieces together.

The yoke and the bottom front were clipped at the dots (where the yoke and the bottom front align) up to the seam allowance. It was easy to sew them together from the sides to the dots, leaving the middle section unsewn so that the elliptical slit is formed. The tricky part was including the lining (sewn the same way as the yoke and front) while paying attention to sewing to the clipped seams at the dots and preventing the bunching at the corners.


Modifications
*I used an invisible zipper

*Instead of hand-sewing the lining to the edge of the zipper and for a nicer finish, I sewed the lining to the dress right sides together, being careful not to catch the zipper teeth.

*I did not sew the lining hem to the dress.


Conclusion
If I do sew this dress again, I would sew it in a solid color as pictured on the model for a more serious look. After an overall positive experience with this 90's dress, I'm looking forward to making more lined dresses!