Living in And-Dottica

Yeah! After having this pattern for months now, I finally decided to make it!


Pattern Description
"Misses' pullover bias tunic or top". I sewed View A, but with changes.

Sizes
Misses' 8-18. I sewed a "12" instead of a "14" after reading reviews that the sizing runs a bit large. I followed Krisine Kay's recommendation to cut a size based on the finished garment's measurements and glad that I did!

Fabric used
Poly charmeuse from Voguefabricsonline.com. This is the left over fabric from Heather's retro dress made last May.




Favorite Features
* Flattering v-neckline
* The built-in mock camisole or inset.
* Sleeve and length versatility
* Pullover style (no need for zippers!)
* Sans the back ties, I worked with only four pattern pieces for view A (bodice front, bodice back, sleeve, front and back of lower bodice or skirt). View B has 3 (front and back skirt, bodice front with built-in sleeve, bodice back with built-in sleeve)


Not-So-Favorite Features
* Inset originally came really low
* Back ties
* Tunic length not flattering for my figure


Directions
They were sufficient with good illustrations, especially for attaching the straps and the mock camisole or inset piece. It would have been easy to attach the inset in the wrong direction if I had not paid attention closely to the illustration, which showed the right side of the inset placed over the wrong side of the V-neck bodice (from the inside of the blouse) with the straps coming from the shoulders stitched to the marked circles at the corners of the inset.

There is some discontinuity of directions in reference to view A, then to view B and to both ("continue as follows for both views"). On the last page, there are the directions for the side seams and sleeves for view A, changing to the underarm seams for view B, and concluding with directions for both views for sewing the side seams of front and back of the lower bodice or skirt, hemming the bottom edge and attaching to the top of the bodice to create the waistline seam. I thought the last set of very brief directions would seem somewhat mysterious for a beginner sewist. They seemed hastily written!


Modifications
* Shortened the sleeves to about 5 cm in-seam. I could have selected view B, the kimono short-sleeved version (maybe next time), but opted for the slightly puffy sleeve cap that went with the long sleeves that were elastically gathered above the wrists.

* Omitted the back ties.

* Instead of pieces of ribbon as suggested, I cut out straps from the same fabric, 4 cm in width.

*I reduced the straps of the inset by one size. Next time if I plan to make this again, I'll shorten it by 1 1/2".

* Shortened the tunic length to an 1 1/2" above the cutting line for view "B", the top/blouse length. I did this to more in balance with the upper bodice. The tunic length (long enough on me to be a mini dress!!!!) of the lower bodice or skirt portion of the blouse placed more emphasis BELOW the bust, giving me that maternity look. I should have (got carried away with the scissors, heh heh) kept the View B's marked length to elongate my torso. I'll just call this some feature to emphasize my shoulder width.

* I edge-stitched the bottom for an undulating effect and also to reduce sewing time by eliminating the pressing and hemming what seems like a circular skirt, cut on the bias. I have some flashbacks from hemming Heather's dress with the circular skirt months earlier.


Conclusion
I definitely recommend this top if you want something stylish and easy to sew. Be on the lookout for the sizing.

Flowers in an Hour?
From 2001,



At that time, I made a knit striped from this pattern (long sleeve version, view C) and it was really easy for a beginner!

Now, seven years later, and I prefer it in a woven, view E:


Pattern Description
"Misses'/miss petite tops and sash" Tops A, B, C, D have dolman sleeves and bateau neckline; tops A, B have long sleeves; top B has over arm slits; tops C, D have three-quarter sleeves; top D has a sash; top E (the one that I recently sewed) has short sleeves with splits and optional purchased flower.

Size
Small/Medium. I sewed a medium.

Fabric
Crinkled cotton from Gorgeous Things


Favorite Features
* The boat or bateau neckline
* The short dolman sleeves with splits at the upper arms, which gives the top a distinctive style.
* Flattering contour of the side seams of the front and back pieces
* Tie belt, which I borrowed from another view
* Few pattern pieces to work with: the front, back, front facing and back facing.
* The sewing directions' format was easy to follow with helpful diagrams.

Other Features
* The openings under the armscyes came low. Wearing a camisole underneath would resolve modesty issues after all the hems and topstitching had been sewn. When I make this top again, I would sew 1 1/2"-2" beyond the top circular mark on each side seam to close the under arm gap, while still not restricting freedom of arm movement.

*The upper back for me was somewhat roomy, suitable for a horizontal tuck.

Directions
Cutting layouts, other information, and sewing directions for tops A, B, C or D all occupied a double sided page. The directions and illustrations were simple to follow and sufficient even for a beginner with basic skills.

Modifications
* None, except for sewing a belt used for view D, a long sleeved version.
* If I make this top again, I plan to add a center back seam or a horizontal tuck to take in the upper back to prevent the little gap and hence, the back neck facing from peeping out despite the understitching and tacking. There goes the "one-hour"!


Conclusion
This was really a quick, simple and fun top to make! But I would disagree a little with the one-hour sewing time. Details such as split sleeves, sewing a sash, and finishing the seams took a little added another forty minutes for me. I am not a speedy sewer as I used to be.



This was the second "timed" top that I made and have been satisfied with the results. If you have this pattern or something similar, give it a try!

Dot Your Ties!






I was inspired by Lori V's gorgeous tie blouse. I hereby propose that she and the blouse be on the front of the revised pattern envelope! Note that the Kwik Sew models (especially the right one) have these "Why-do-I-have-to-wear-these, eeeew-icky" expressions on their faces.

After two months of sitting on a shelf bookcase with the pattern pieces already cut, I finally decided to cut the fabric and sew it immediately! This garment will be part of my "Carribean Seams" mini-wardrobe plan for the fall.

Pattern Description
Misses' Fitted blouses have v-neckline, collar, bust darts, back waist darts, and front button closure. View A has three-quarter sleeves finished with facings and wide ties attached in the seams. View B has shawl collar, short sleeves with elastic rolled into casings and back ties attached in waist darts.


Sizing
Ladies' XS-S-M-L. This is the second time I worked with Kwik Sew patterns, my first being a 70's pattern. It seems as if Kwik Sew patterns lean toward some form of "vanity" sizing. For instance, I am not a medium according to Burda WOF's typical range of sizes on the patterns I have used. Based on my bust size, I am a medium on Kwik Sew's chart. The given waist size is 27 1/2"-29" (not what I currently have!!) and the hips 38 1/2 to 40" which is in my range. Those lucky ladies with waistlines that I envy will most likely have to adjust this pattern accordingly.

Favorite Features
*Great directions
*Wide front ties
*Shawl/wing style collar
*Slightly dropped shoulders
*Two back vertical darts (for back shaping)
*Bust darts
*Sleeves set-in very nicely into the armscyes (very little easing required). This seems to be a typical characteric I noted in the KS reviews I had read.
*Slit sleeve cuff. I like this quickie (KWIKkie) method, that I will adopt on tops with similar cuffs. The sleeve facing is sewn to the sleeve PRIOR to sewing the sleeve seams. I sewed the sleeve facing to the bottom edge of the sleeve (right sides together) while, stitching around the slit (1/8" from its edge). Then I turned the facing right side out at the corners.


Other Features (not really dislikes)
*Low armscye which seems to be a style feature. I have been used to styles with higher armscyes.
*Seam allowances of 1/4" are included. I used a 3/8" allowance which worked fine for me.
*I used 3" spacing between the 5 buttonholes. After re-skimming the Kwik Sew directions, I finally noticed that 3" was also the recommend spacing!


There is nothing really to dislike about this pattern, except wishing that I had sewn it sooner!


Directions
Very good! The overall presentation is nicely organized and uncluttered. You could easily locate the cutting tips, fabric layout (by fabric width, pattern view and size), basic sewing procedures (selecing a needle size, a quick and handy reference to types of stitches)and even clipping curves and corners. I wish I knew about KWIK SEW years ago!

I like the convenient pamphlet format, where I can leave the paper nicely folded to a particular section by column without having the entire page open and taking up space. The steps are clear and to the point. The illustrations are very helpful and easy to decipher.


Basic steps sans the illustrations (a la Burda WOF). Skip to the next section. I do not intend to bore you with redundant information!
* Interface the front facings and sleeve facings.
* Sew the bust darts and back vertical darts.
* Sew the fronts and back at the shoulder seams.
* Stitch the under collars together and attach to the neckline.
* Stitch the front facings at the center back seam and attach to the front and outer collar edges. Turn them to the wrong side and topstitch the neckline.
* Finish the hems of the ties and attach to the front of the blouse, aligning notches (wrong side of ties to correct side of the blouse)
* Sew side seams
* Ease-stitch sleeve cap
*Sew sleeve facing to edge of sleeve, right sides together. Turn to inside.
*Stitch sleeve seam while keeping the sleeve facing outstretched (right sides together, sleeve facing seam is formed which becomes clear after folding it to the wrong side of the sleeve)
*Set-in the sleeves
*Hem the blouse and make buttonholes.


Fabric
Cotton shirting from Gorgeous Things.


Modifications/Alterations
*I shortened the length to a "S".
*I lengthened the ties about 1".
*I raised the first butthonhole by about 3/8" above the pattern's marking.
*I cut another pair of the ties so that I could sew them right sides together and turn them inside out for a nicer finish. I also did not like the idea of turning the raw edges under and stitching which would show as the ties flop about.
*Machine finish the seam allowances. Next time, especially with thin fabrics, I plan to use a bias strip to bind the edges for a cleaner finish.


Conclusion
Overall, the top is straightforward and easy to construct, but not "quick" to sew, as the name of the pattern company implies.

I highly recommend this top, especially if you like the stylish wide tie front or as an alternative to the famous Burda front tie blouse. It is also very comfortable! I plan to sew another one in a silkier fabric.

Lotsa Dotsa!

Vogue 8292, already out of print!









Pattern Description
"MISSES’ BLOUSE: Wrap blouse has sleeve variations. B: front ruffle. C: purchased trim." I sewed view "A".


Size
10-12-14.

Usually I sew a "14" in the big 4. I took a chance with a "12" and glad that I did. A "14" would be really roomy in the upper portion.


Fabric
Polka-dotted georgette from Gorgeous Fabrics. I used a 60/8 needle due to it being slighly sheer.


Directions
After working with Burda WOF for about half a year now, these directions along with the illustrations are satisfactory. If you have sewn wrap tops and/or dresses, then you could get by just skimming the directions and relying on the illustrations. It can be assumed that the sewist has experience with basic sewing techniques such as binding an edge with self-facing, making darts, finishing seams, adding trim, and making ruffles.


Favorite Features
* The wrap style with several sleeve and neckline variations (sleeve lengths and style embellishments).
* The wide pleats or darts below the shoulders, giving a nice drape in the chest area.
* The short sleeves that are darted at the center, giving a slighly puffed effect.
I like the look of the neckline made from a long piece of fabric folded lengthwise and attached right sides together, folded to the inside and stitched.
* Slight asymmetrical front hem


Other Feathures/Observations

* The neckline runs lower than pictured on the envelope.

* I used my handy dandy seam ripper to remove several misaligned stitches on a section on the neckline where it bunched up due to the slight slipperiness of the fabric and some uncoordination on my part. If I make this top again in a similar type of fabric, I plan ot interface the neckline facings to stabilize them prior to stitching them to the neckline.

* From the envelope drawing of the view I sewed, I did not see the tie wrap to the front and tied in a bow. It seemed to be hidden and tied to the side.


Modifications
*Added a "modesty" snap as a quick and effective fix to raise and stabilize the neckline. I would not be surprised with this slippery fabric, if the neckline shifted every which way.

*I added my favorite 70's collar. For convenience, I traced and cut a copy of the original pattern piece. This is the second time I used this collar with another pattern. I did not encounter a problem stitching the neck facing to the collar.

*I omitted the front and back vertical darts. The top was better without them since I sewed a "12" instead of my usual "14" at the hips.

*I lengthened the ties by about 5". I wanted to make sure that the ties were long enough to encircle my waist and have enough for the bow.


Conclusion
I recommend this top if you want a fairly easy and gratifying project. I had a little challenge from working with a slightly slippery fabric.

Tangerine Twist


WOW! This is a first for me to have the new Burda WOF issue early in the month! This super August 2008 issue appeared in my mailbox a few days ago! ("Honey, I just picked up the mail.....I notice that there may be something of great importance....)

Pattern Description
Giant dots line up on this figure-fitted top! Raglan cap sleeves and a standing collar furnish the chic pullover look. Our sewing tips: Use an invisible zipper in centre back so that the collar fits snugly. Stitch all the hems with twin needles to guarantee suitably elasticity.

Sizes
Burda misses' 34 – 42.




Fabric
Rayon-Lycra Jersey - "Tangerine Floral" from Lucy's Fabrics.

Likes
*Versatile top that could be made in a solid or printed knit!
*Pattern consists of a front piece, a back piece, a front piece and a back piece for the sleeves, and rectangular pieces with specific lengths and widths: the collar and little lower armhole facings.
*The mock turtleneck and short sleeve style
*That indescribable Burda fit


Dislikes
*The sparse and cryptic directions, typical of Burda WOF, but can be figured out after careful thought or after an "Oops! I made a silly mistake...... Now I know what those directions mean!"

*The slight gathers atop the sleeve at the seam of the front and back short raglan sleeves. This could be caused by a combination of the fabric cut on the bias and goofy operator errors. I notice that even the Burda fashion model had some fabric bunching at the shoulders and arms!

*This top really requires an invisible zipper due to the high neckline and the length of the collar. However, after my "discoveries", I was able to bypass this feature.


Directions
What seemed like a very easy top due to the dot and a half rating was actually a test in perseverance and discovery!

I made note of the seam numbers and transferred the markings to the tissue paper onto which I was tracing. Unless my eyes deceived me, the only markings I saw were the ones on the upper armholes. As I discovered later, these are the points where the lower edges of the sleeve hems would be placed before pinning and sewing the sleeves onto the front and back piece.

The raglan looking sleeves with a front and back piece took more time than if I had set in a sleeve for a jacket!

I found it helpful to lay the pieces over the upper edges of the top (after side seams are stitched)as a point of reference to figure out the orientation of each pair of the front and back sleeve pieces. The directions mention to sew the shoulder seams (top edges of the front and back sleeve pieces seams marked "1") and the top seam of the front and back sleeve pieces in a "continuous seam." The tricky part was aligning and attaching the entire front and back sleeve piece onto the neckline while figuring out how to position the shoulder seams to avoid some fabric from bunching.


Modifications
*I was hoping that I would not need a back zipper. I was able to barely slip the top over my head before attaching the collar made from a 16" length and 4" rectangle of the same fabric which would eventually become a 2" wide collar after folding it lengthwise. Then I was curious how the collar would look like after I sewed it to the neckline. Yes, a zipper would be necessary due to the high neckline! I lowered the neckline about 3/4" (while cutting away the collar, ditching the seam ripper!). Fortunately I had already added enough of a seam allowance when I traced the pattern piece to compensate.

* I drafted a new collar piece. I cut a slightly wider and longer rectangle on the bias. YES! I was able to slip the top over my head! I like the slight drape my new collar. Now, I do not have to worry about feeling restricted by a tight collar and neckline.

*I skipped the facings for the lower arm facings. I made small zig-zag stitches after turning in a 3/8" hem.


Conclusion
I might give this top one more try with all the changes I just made! Hopefully the next top's construction will take less time. It's really a simple top to sew after figuring out some rough spots.

However.....I do very much recommend this fashion packed August 2008 issue! There are a lot of great looking outfits!

Jessie's Girls

1981.....What a great year and a year in music!

I purchased this from ebay. I like the square neckline and the sleeve variations! I made the sleeveless top with the ruffled front.







Pattern Description
From 1981, misses' pullover blouses with square neckline and sleeve options.

When I saw the printed year of this pattern I was taken back to flashbacks of high school, the "Valley Girl" fashion scene, and rocking to the music of Rick Springfield, the Police, Rick James and Pat Benatar!

Remember when the #1 hit "Jessie's Girl" was heard everywhere and soap opera fans swooned when they saw Dr. Noah Drake on General Hospital?


Size
Misses' size 12, bust 34"

Fabric
Alexander Henry "Mad for Mod" fabric from Hancock's of Paducah.

Did it look like the envelope
A little. My fabric, belt, and trim made my top unique.






Likes
*Square neckline with optional trim
*Organized instructions
*Versatile pattern






Dislikes
* Definitely meant to be belted due to being somewhat baggy
* Order of construction for adding the trim to the neckline
The trim is added to gathered edge of the ruffles, before sewing the ruffless to the neckline. But it was somewhat of a challenge to get my ruffles to line up with the trim (bias binding in a contrast color), especially at the "mitered" corners (little darts at specific points that line up with the square necklines' corners), and this is before attaching the ruffles to the neckline!



Modifications
* Added 3/8" to width of ruffle.
* Instead of adding trim to the ruffles prior to attaching to the neckline, I basted the ruffles to the neckline the and trimmed excess fabric at top (grade the edges). Then I sewed trim with a narrow elastric edge and little organza ruffles onto the edges of the neckline.

* If ever I make the ruffled neckline again, I would skip the trim and I would baste and sew the ruffles to the neckline before attaching the facings. I would also used elastic thread to gather the edge of the ruffles. It would have made gathering so much easier!


Directions
This was basic and simple blouse to sew that I relied more on the satisfactory illustrations! McCall's assumed that the sewist knows basic constructions such as gathering and making facings.


Would you make this again? Would you recommend this pattern to others?
Yes! I plan to make the other styles without the ruffled neckline. I would recommend this pattern or something similar to others. There are current patterns that have similar styling (i.e. Simplicity's Project Runway series