Tangerine Twist


WOW! This is a first for me to have the new Burda WOF issue early in the month! This super August 2008 issue appeared in my mailbox a few days ago! ("Honey, I just picked up the mail.....I notice that there may be something of great importance....)

Pattern Description
Giant dots line up on this figure-fitted top! Raglan cap sleeves and a standing collar furnish the chic pullover look. Our sewing tips: Use an invisible zipper in centre back so that the collar fits snugly. Stitch all the hems with twin needles to guarantee suitably elasticity.

Sizes
Burda misses' 34 – 42.




Fabric
Rayon-Lycra Jersey - "Tangerine Floral" from Lucy's Fabrics.

Likes
*Versatile top that could be made in a solid or printed knit!
*Pattern consists of a front piece, a back piece, a front piece and a back piece for the sleeves, and rectangular pieces with specific lengths and widths: the collar and little lower armhole facings.
*The mock turtleneck and short sleeve style
*That indescribable Burda fit


Dislikes
*The sparse and cryptic directions, typical of Burda WOF, but can be figured out after careful thought or after an "Oops! I made a silly mistake...... Now I know what those directions mean!"

*The slight gathers atop the sleeve at the seam of the front and back short raglan sleeves. This could be caused by a combination of the fabric cut on the bias and goofy operator errors. I notice that even the Burda fashion model had some fabric bunching at the shoulders and arms!

*This top really requires an invisible zipper due to the high neckline and the length of the collar. However, after my "discoveries", I was able to bypass this feature.


Directions
What seemed like a very easy top due to the dot and a half rating was actually a test in perseverance and discovery!

I made note of the seam numbers and transferred the markings to the tissue paper onto which I was tracing. Unless my eyes deceived me, the only markings I saw were the ones on the upper armholes. As I discovered later, these are the points where the lower edges of the sleeve hems would be placed before pinning and sewing the sleeves onto the front and back piece.

The raglan looking sleeves with a front and back piece took more time than if I had set in a sleeve for a jacket!

I found it helpful to lay the pieces over the upper edges of the top (after side seams are stitched)as a point of reference to figure out the orientation of each pair of the front and back sleeve pieces. The directions mention to sew the shoulder seams (top edges of the front and back sleeve pieces seams marked "1") and the top seam of the front and back sleeve pieces in a "continuous seam." The tricky part was aligning and attaching the entire front and back sleeve piece onto the neckline while figuring out how to position the shoulder seams to avoid some fabric from bunching.


Modifications
*I was hoping that I would not need a back zipper. I was able to barely slip the top over my head before attaching the collar made from a 16" length and 4" rectangle of the same fabric which would eventually become a 2" wide collar after folding it lengthwise. Then I was curious how the collar would look like after I sewed it to the neckline. Yes, a zipper would be necessary due to the high neckline! I lowered the neckline about 3/4" (while cutting away the collar, ditching the seam ripper!). Fortunately I had already added enough of a seam allowance when I traced the pattern piece to compensate.

* I drafted a new collar piece. I cut a slightly wider and longer rectangle on the bias. YES! I was able to slip the top over my head! I like the slight drape my new collar. Now, I do not have to worry about feeling restricted by a tight collar and neckline.

*I skipped the facings for the lower arm facings. I made small zig-zag stitches after turning in a 3/8" hem.


Conclusion
I might give this top one more try with all the changes I just made! Hopefully the next top's construction will take less time. It's really a simple top to sew after figuring out some rough spots.

However.....I do very much recommend this fashion packed August 2008 issue! There are a lot of great looking outfits!