Dot Your Ties!






I was inspired by Lori V's gorgeous tie blouse. I hereby propose that she and the blouse be on the front of the revised pattern envelope! Note that the Kwik Sew models (especially the right one) have these "Why-do-I-have-to-wear-these, eeeew-icky" expressions on their faces.

After two months of sitting on a shelf bookcase with the pattern pieces already cut, I finally decided to cut the fabric and sew it immediately! This garment will be part of my "Carribean Seams" mini-wardrobe plan for the fall.

Pattern Description
Misses' Fitted blouses have v-neckline, collar, bust darts, back waist darts, and front button closure. View A has three-quarter sleeves finished with facings and wide ties attached in the seams. View B has shawl collar, short sleeves with elastic rolled into casings and back ties attached in waist darts.


Sizing
Ladies' XS-S-M-L. This is the second time I worked with Kwik Sew patterns, my first being a 70's pattern. It seems as if Kwik Sew patterns lean toward some form of "vanity" sizing. For instance, I am not a medium according to Burda WOF's typical range of sizes on the patterns I have used. Based on my bust size, I am a medium on Kwik Sew's chart. The given waist size is 27 1/2"-29" (not what I currently have!!) and the hips 38 1/2 to 40" which is in my range. Those lucky ladies with waistlines that I envy will most likely have to adjust this pattern accordingly.

Favorite Features
*Great directions
*Wide front ties
*Shawl/wing style collar
*Slightly dropped shoulders
*Two back vertical darts (for back shaping)
*Bust darts
*Sleeves set-in very nicely into the armscyes (very little easing required). This seems to be a typical characteric I noted in the KS reviews I had read.
*Slit sleeve cuff. I like this quickie (KWIKkie) method, that I will adopt on tops with similar cuffs. The sleeve facing is sewn to the sleeve PRIOR to sewing the sleeve seams. I sewed the sleeve facing to the bottom edge of the sleeve (right sides together) while, stitching around the slit (1/8" from its edge). Then I turned the facing right side out at the corners.


Other Features (not really dislikes)
*Low armscye which seems to be a style feature. I have been used to styles with higher armscyes.
*Seam allowances of 1/4" are included. I used a 3/8" allowance which worked fine for me.
*I used 3" spacing between the 5 buttonholes. After re-skimming the Kwik Sew directions, I finally noticed that 3" was also the recommend spacing!


There is nothing really to dislike about this pattern, except wishing that I had sewn it sooner!


Directions
Very good! The overall presentation is nicely organized and uncluttered. You could easily locate the cutting tips, fabric layout (by fabric width, pattern view and size), basic sewing procedures (selecing a needle size, a quick and handy reference to types of stitches)and even clipping curves and corners. I wish I knew about KWIK SEW years ago!

I like the convenient pamphlet format, where I can leave the paper nicely folded to a particular section by column without having the entire page open and taking up space. The steps are clear and to the point. The illustrations are very helpful and easy to decipher.


Basic steps sans the illustrations (a la Burda WOF). Skip to the next section. I do not intend to bore you with redundant information!
* Interface the front facings and sleeve facings.
* Sew the bust darts and back vertical darts.
* Sew the fronts and back at the shoulder seams.
* Stitch the under collars together and attach to the neckline.
* Stitch the front facings at the center back seam and attach to the front and outer collar edges. Turn them to the wrong side and topstitch the neckline.
* Finish the hems of the ties and attach to the front of the blouse, aligning notches (wrong side of ties to correct side of the blouse)
* Sew side seams
* Ease-stitch sleeve cap
*Sew sleeve facing to edge of sleeve, right sides together. Turn to inside.
*Stitch sleeve seam while keeping the sleeve facing outstretched (right sides together, sleeve facing seam is formed which becomes clear after folding it to the wrong side of the sleeve)
*Set-in the sleeves
*Hem the blouse and make buttonholes.


Fabric
Cotton shirting from Gorgeous Things.


Modifications/Alterations
*I shortened the length to a "S".
*I lengthened the ties about 1".
*I raised the first butthonhole by about 3/8" above the pattern's marking.
*I cut another pair of the ties so that I could sew them right sides together and turn them inside out for a nicer finish. I also did not like the idea of turning the raw edges under and stitching which would show as the ties flop about.
*Machine finish the seam allowances. Next time, especially with thin fabrics, I plan to use a bias strip to bind the edges for a cleaner finish.


Conclusion
Overall, the top is straightforward and easy to construct, but not "quick" to sew, as the name of the pattern company implies.

I highly recommend this top, especially if you like the stylish wide tie front or as an alternative to the famous Burda front tie blouse. It is also very comfortable! I plan to sew another one in a silkier fabric.