Sunday, January 23, 2011

Tess Sew-lation

It's hard to "believe" that McCall's 2254 came out the same year when Cher's "auto-tuned" disco-esque song became a big hit.

From 1999: a fitted knit top with sleeve (long or short raglan) and neckline options (sweetheart or slight scoop). 



It was interesting to see that Cher wore a tube top and a long-sleeved shrug at the Late Night with David Letterman on November 1998.


The pattern that I used was sized 6-8-10 (small).  I had hoped to find a "medium" somewhere on-line.  Since this pattern seemed to be rare, I settled for what I was able to find. 

First version in stretch velour that I do not recommend with this pattern. This top is not flattering on me, and it will not be worn out of the house after this photo.

 
Favorite Features:
*The directions and illustrations were easily deciphirable.

*I like that the mock shrug/bolero contains a separate pattern piece unlike Burda Style's #129 from the January 2011 issue.  It is attached the same way with its lower edge attached to the upper bodice.  The sleeves are raglan instead of the "set-in" type.

Burda Style pattern #129 knit top from January 2010 issue

My second version of Burda Style pattern #129

Not-so-favorite Features
*I did not encounter much extra fabric below the back of my neck and upper back as in Burda Style's #129.

* The neckline contained some extra ease seemed to a size or two larger than expected. I would suggest grading down a size, or taking in the front neckline when attaching it to the mock shrug/bolero section.

*Since I anticipated that this style is form-fitting, I added an extra seam allowance (5/8") to the waist/hips section. 
                                               

Second version in poly knit:

Alterations/Modifications:

*Took in the upper bodice (neckline) 3/4"

*Petite adjustment (1") at the waistline

*Stabilized the neckline (above the bust) by stitching elastic (1/8" width, 2" shorter than the length of the neckline joining the two mock shrug/bolero sections) close to the edge on the wrong side, turning under and topstitch.


Current patterns with the mock shrug/bolero style:
Butterick 5525


McCall's 6284


Kwik Sew 3756



Jalie 2794


McCall's 2254 is overall simple to sew and looks fine in a solid or print.   On a precautionary note, since I am finding that the necklines of this and similar tops have excess ease as drafted, it helps to make a muslin before delving into the nicer fabric.   Although this pattern's age is more than a decade, this classic style has stood the test for time.

Flashback Fun, July 2008: Wearing Jalie 2794 knit tops, Heather and I being silly.

Saturday, January 15, 2011

Ex-Seam Make-Over, Part 2

For probably the sixth time I used my reliable pattern for knit tops, Vogue 8451. But this time it is to "re-style" another of those "freebie" t-shirts.

Ex-Seam Makeover, Part One









Oh no, it's that time AGAIN to promote our school's goal to improve its API (academic performance index).  For the past two years, we wore those beefy looking Hanes-type t-shirts.  As you can see I am pretending to be very thrilled about wearing these "glamourous and chic" tops. 


Last week, one of my assistant principals mentioned to start wearing the new shirts (second version) to get the students to start thinking about surpassing last year's overall performance on the California Standardized Tests (CST's).  So, I took the shirt that I had stuffed into a box and decided to make it more "fashionable" to wear the next day.
I cut the shirt into "pieces".  I snipped the shirt along the seams and cut along the "seamless" sides to separate the front and back.  It's time to detach that unflattering wide ribbed knit collar.  I wish that the logo had been placed lower on the front due to the depth of the new neckline. 


 It would have been nice if school's mascot and letters were placed on the front to connect the school with its goal of  "stellar performance".  My hair prvents the school's insignia from being visible on the back. 


I adjusted and pinned the front pattern piece taking into account some fabric shortage. 


After stitching the shoulder seams, topstitching the neckline, hemline, attaching the sleeves flat, sewing the sleeve and side seams, sewing casings at the sleeve hems, and inserting 1/4" wide elastic (2" longer than the circumference of my upper arms),  I am ready to wear this shirt. However, due to fabric limitations, theis the only issue I have with this top. 
Side by side comparision.  From a distance, the "800" looks like "BOO", which is not the intended message that I want to send to my students!  I now like the style of my "new" top, but not the logo.  If  I had an opportunity, I would have voted for a different design that included the school mascot and initials.


When I was at the school office, one of my colleagues after saying "hi" immediately looked at me in amazement.  I was clueless as to the reason. Before she could say anything else, she complimented me on my top and pointed out that she liked the shaping below the neckline and the arms.  I was surprised that she noticed my "modified shirt" when I was wearing a red sweater over it.   I told her that I cut the shirt apart at the seams, re-shaped the edges according to a pattern, and re-stitched the seams.  She even excitedly told our registrar what I did to make the top more "girly" or more flattering.  This goes to prove that it does not take space-age technology to make something SEAM and SEW interesting to others!

Thursday, January 06, 2011

Flutter-Fly



From the McCall's patterns website

As I was looking through the current McCall's catalogue at JoAnn's, I noticed patterns associated with young and upcoming designers. This pattern comes from Megan Nicolay (first time I heard about her) for Generation T.

More about the designer Megan Nicolay in her Generation T website.

Description: Pullover top A, tunic B or dress C have wide neckline and unfinished edges; top A front and back extend to draped sleeves, very narrow shoulders and lower band; tunic B, dress C instructions to create woven chain detail are included, tunic B at neckline, dress C along hemline band; dress C has contrast inner hem band.

I made view A, with a few changes.

Sizing:
Misses' XS-S-M. I sewed the "M".

 Here are the directions in a nutshell:
* Sew the tiny shoulder seams (1.3 cm or 1/2") and sides of the top.

* Stitch the seam of the hem band and fold in half lengthwise with the "wrong sides together".

*Attach the hem band to the lower edge of the top, right sides together, while aligning the seam of the hemband with a side seam and the notches.

*Reinforce the tiny shoulder seam by stitching on a piece of twill tape.
*Which I am not accustomed to is leaving the neckline and the split sleeves "unfinished".

Fabric Used: Polyester knit.



Likes/Dislikes
* I like the simplicity of the view A's design which consists of a front piece (which is also used for the back) and a hem piece, both cut on a fold. However, I notice that the envelope contains two front pieces of each view, which I thought was an error, but soon realized it was for convenience in laying all the pieces needed for a particular view. It would have been more simple to just label one of the fronts "back" for clarity.

*Ideal for printed knits, especially for showcasing certain designs such as "mandalas".

*I like the hem band which gives the top a flattering silhouette. It was also easy to create and attach to the lower edge of the top, by aligning the notches.

*I did not like the appearance of this split-sleeve design on me. The drape was nice, but did not suit me at all, so I stitched the entire upper arm for a "kimono" look. Now, I like it much better, even though I feel like I will "fly like an eagle".


*The neckline is wide, and note a tad of my right bra strap that happened to "blend" with my neckline. Any more slippage of the neckline and then I would be promoting 1983's Jennifer Beal's iconic Flashdance look!



*I like the look of the bateau neckline but it is wide enough for a bra strap to peep out, especially for those with narrow shoulders. I should have raised the neckline a tad in order to have enough allowance to hem and topstitch it.

 My pants are from Simplicity 4135 that I made last year.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
*Topstitched the neckline instead of leaving it "unfinished" as the intended design.

*My usual petite adjustments at the waist (1") and upper back (3/4")


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
If I make the pullover top again, I will add elastic to pull the neckline in further. I would like to try the other views. I definitely recommend this pattern, especially for those new to knits and for anybody who wants a "quick gratification" project. It took less than an hour for me to sew!

Conclusion:
It's very simple to sew!


 Fly Girls

Wearing those "fly-away" looking sleeves....

Natalie Portman (??) modeling a BCBG Max Azria caftan, $248, Nordstroms.com.




A Parker tunic dress for $297 at SaksFifthAvenue.com



This model looks angry modeling a BCBG Max Azria silk asymmetrical top from SaksFifthAvenue.com for $158. 


Purple reigns sew-preme today!

Sunday, January 02, 2011

One Hit One-Ders and a Remake

Happy New Year!  I hope that all of you had a nice 1/1/11 day!

I have the 1999 McCall's pattern (upper left) that I recently purchased from e*ay.  I have seen this pattern years ago, and recently was particularly inspired by our KnitMachineQueen (her blog is Smoking Needles) to get it!  I sewed a few of the Jallie "sweetheart" tops (lower right) three years ago. I find these styles of tops flatter every figure.



The One-Fit, One-Derrrr?


What a surprise! I found a similar looking style in this month's issue of Burdastyle. To celebrate this day, and to start my New Year's Re-SEW-lution, I found the courage and time to trace, cut, and sew #129 from the January 2011 issue of Burda Style (formerly BWOF).  I experienced difficulty in finding all 3 pieces on the page. So I highlit in bold yellow what I wanted to trace, adding seam allowances later. It helped a little. Yet, it was easy to go "off-track" and trace lines that belonged to another pattern. Now, I am discouraged to trace patterns that require more pieces!

I did not see a design difference between 129A and 129B, except for the color and fabric choice.

 My description:
Knit top with square neckline, a curved front hem,  and a mock bolero/shrug.


from page 40 of the magazine:
"...Every woman will feel feminine and sensual in this hip-length, long-sleeved top with low square neckline and tulip collar...








First version:
The pattern came in misses' 38-44.  I sewed "40".   The fabric that I used was left-over poly knit from a previous project. I thought that this pattern would whip up instantly with no problems. In my case, I was wrong! I should have used other "remnants" before using this fabric.  Unlike my common experiences with Burda, the neckline was the extreme opposite of the usual "plunge". In fact, I achieved what I called an ultra conservative version due to what seems to be blunders on my part. Before tracing, I noticed that the back seemed to be longer than the front, taking into consideration that the extension from the back piece would occupy the front or the "bolero" portion. Most likely, I simply "misaligned" the pieces somewhere...





**** I just read Christa's very helpful review of this pattern. Upon comparing the necklines, I "mysteriously" traced my neckline, higher than what it should have been, and also placed the front bodice at the upper edge instead of along the mock shrug piece, oops! Her neckline was lower, but still elegant, and mine was higher and restrictive.  

She inspired me to give this pattern one more try after figuring out specifically what I did incorrectly.
Second version, after figuring out the placement of the front bodice and the faux shrug portion, thanks to a fellow PR's review.


As for the directions when sewing the top for the first time....

*At first, they seemed brief, but straightforward, but while actually sewing the top, I encountered moments of uncertainty and nearly "fits" (double entendre) of fury!!!  There even seems to be the vital steps missing, such as how and where to join the shrug/bolero portion (coming out from the back piece) to the front, despite matching the corresponding seam numbers.  It was easy for me to put it "backwards" or to get things "twisted".   Sometimes I feel like a dimwit when it comes to seemingly "easy peasy" projects.

*****ALERT for first version in red/white knit fabric:
  I did not align the bodice correctly with respect to the extension of the back piece (the mock shrug/bolero portion), which seemed to contribute to the restrictive neckline.  Refer to  Christa's review.

Maybe this picture (excuse my frighteningly unfinished seams) well help somewhat to visualize the pieces attached together, keeping in mind that I sewed the sleeves "flat" instead of setting them as per the Burda instructions.
 
To keep the edges of the shrug/bolero from "slipping" and/or "curling", I topstitched them to the front of the bodice. Unless my eyes deceived me, there was no mention of a way to secure the shrug to the bodice. But then my use of elastic (1/8" in width) necessitated the topstitching.





*It is definitely "hip-length" as described. Personally, I like the top a bit longer for my proportions. For taller ladies, I see the possibility of the top landing on the midriffs? However, I did not alter the length of my second version is past hip-length due to the "corrected" placement of the front to the upper back piece.



Other Observations
From the first version (red and white):
* Even after thinking that I matched the corresponding markings and seam numbers, somehow my front piece was shorter than the back piece by 1 1/4". I figured that this was how much lower the neckline should be. However, if I lowered the front by this amount, then it would not align with the lower part of the armscye that led to a side seam. So, after sewing the side seams, I snipped the length of the back to align with the length of the front (due to MY mistakes).
*After reading Christa's review, silly me, I did not properly place the upper edge on the shrug/bolero portion. 

* I did not like the bunching at the seams below the shoulder and front armscye and the restrictive look at the upper chest seams (or simply tight below the shoulders and at the upper chest, moving the upper armscye seams toward the center), which I all attribute to operator error. I traced either the wrong size or just got confused with the congestion of lines. I noticed that the similar tops in other patterns featured the shrug/bolero and arms as being continuous piece.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

*For both versions, I did my usual petite adjustments at my usual upper back and waist/hip area.



*For the first version due  to being really totally clueless, I sewed the shrug and the bodice at the incorrect position. As a result the lower part of the shrug bypassed the upper edge front facing at the armscye  (where they should have been joined to form  seam), thus bringing up the neckline and the upper back pulling forward.  You can compare the two knit tops from the inside view, and see the difference. 

*For both versions, to prevent the edge of the back of the neckline leading to the front bodice from being "floppy", I sewed elastic (1/8" in width).   For the first version, I elasticized the  entire lower edge of the faux shrug/bolero transitioning to the rest of the neckline.  For the second version,  I only elasicized the neckline formed by the back piece: from one upper corner of the front, passing the shoulders and back of the neck, then to then to the other upper corner of the front.  In both tops, the elastic used was about 2" less the actual length of the length involved.  





















*As mentioned earlier, I sewed the sleeves to the armscye, instead of setting them in.

*For the second version, anticipating the familiar depths of Burda decolletege as confirmed by Christa, I raised the neckline 1" by a  quick  "cut and spread" method: I cut the front pattern piece along the "fold" line for the front facing and spread the detached pieces 2" apart on the fabric. 


Second (corrected) version, thanks to Christa's review!
* Lower edge of mock shrug/bolero is sewn to the armscye part of the front bodice (both marked seam number "1") unlike previously where I sewed the armscye to the upper edge of the shrug. Notice that the each seam of the armscye part of the front facing "transitions" to the neckline that encircle the upper chest, the shoulders, and the back of the neck. 

*For the second version,  I shortened the sleeves 3/4" by a horizontal fold below the elbow after noticing that the sleeves run longer than usual in my first version.  Even the models have to "push back" their sleeves.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I'm not sure. I still would recommend it. Maybe it is just me that I had some little challenges with this easy pattern due to my "goofs". Otherwise it could have easily been a 1.5 instead of 2 dotted pattern.




Somebody sneaked into the picture!


Conclusion:
I will try my McCall's 2254 from 1999 and compare.

I did not want to have my efforts go to waste and decided to wear it to the city's annual international car show (now one of our traditional family outings). Being a slightly chilly Saturday night, I  wore a sweater (the flash makes it more transparent).

Heather "test driving" Hyundai's Veracruz.


Some highlights:

Dog "Chase".  Heather is proudly wearing her first pair of leggings that she made mostly by herself! She used McCall's 6275, a "2011" pattern.

 This pattern is sew new that as of this moment, it is not on the McCall's patterns website.




Honey, what do you think about this for our next car?

But, honey, check this out.  There's a camera by the license plate.  Come on....


My response: now, look at the price display.  Hmmmmm.....It's nearly $70,000!  Let's move on....


Ca-daddy Ca-dillac


Mom, I can give you the weather forecast from this Lexus!

Without paying $78,555, my child, I can get that info from our tv, newspaper, or the internet!!!


For $4,669, it would be practical to get a Vespa, just to get to and fro from work (technically a 2-minute drive to the high school where I teach, with no traffic)


What I call the "Shamu Mobile"

Probably one of the more "affordable" passenger cars, a Mini Cooper, with a base price of $21,800.  It was popular with the look-i-loos.  Lately, I have not been too much into "smaller" cars, but I do like this cute car. 

Cool retro looking gauges:

Additional features, with not-so-cute prices...

 I liked the color of the new Nissan murano.  If only our 2004 Toyota Highlander came in that color...

Got Milk?
(and a Mrs. Field's Chocolate Chip Cookie, for $2.50 a cookie
 :-( ...  ) 



New Year's Re-SEW-lutions
(1) SEW more
(2) Minimize pattern and fabric buying
What a way to kick-off the new by buying NEW patterns?  I have to stop reading those Jo-Ann flyers where I discover those pattern sales. 

Earlier in December, I purchased some new Buttericks.


Yesterday's date was 1/1/11. In nine days, 1/11/11! That's what I call one-der-full!  What are your new year's resolutions, or re-SEW-lutions?