I have the 1999 McCall's pattern (upper left) that I recently purchased from e*ay. I have seen this pattern years ago, and recently was particularly inspired by our KnitMachineQueen (her blog is Smoking Needles) to get it! I sewed a few of the Jallie "sweetheart" tops (lower right) three years ago. I find these styles of tops flatter every figure.
The One-Fit, One-Derrrr?
What a surprise! I found a similar looking style in this month's issue of Burdastyle. To celebrate this day, and to start my New Year's Re-SEW-lution, I found the courage and time to trace, cut, and sew #129 from the January 2011 issue of Burda Style (formerly BWOF). I experienced difficulty in finding all 3 pieces on the page. So I highlit in bold yellow what I wanted to trace, adding seam allowances later. It helped a little. Yet, it was easy to go "off-track" and trace lines that belonged to another pattern. Now, I am discouraged to trace patterns that require more pieces!
I did not see a design difference between 129A and 129B, except for the color and fabric choice.
My description:
Knit top with square neckline, a curved front hem, and a mock bolero/shrug.
from page 40 of the magazine:
"...Every woman will feel feminine and sensual in this hip-length, long-sleeved top with low square neckline and tulip collar...
First version:
The pattern came in misses' 38-44. I sewed "40". The fabric that I used was left-over poly knit from a previous project. I thought that this pattern would whip up instantly with no problems. In my case, I was wrong! I should have used other "remnants" before using this fabric. Unlike my common experiences with Burda, the neckline was the extreme opposite of the usual "plunge". In fact, I achieved what I called an ultra conservative version due to what seems to be blunders on my part. Before tracing, I noticed that the back seemed to be longer than the front, taking into consideration that the extension from the back piece would occupy the front or the "bolero" portion. Most likely, I simply "misaligned" the pieces somewhere...**** I just read Christa's very helpful review of this pattern. Upon comparing the necklines, I "mysteriously" traced my neckline, higher than what it should have been, and also placed the front bodice at the upper edge instead of along the mock shrug piece, oops! Her neckline was lower, but still elegant, and mine was higher and restrictive.
She inspired me to give this pattern one more try after figuring out specifically what I did incorrectly.
As for the directions when sewing the top for the first time....
*****ALERT for first version in red/white knit fabric:
I did not align the bodice correctly with respect to the extension of the back piece (the mock shrug/bolero portion), which seemed to contribute to the restrictive neckline. Refer to Christa's review.
Maybe this picture (excuse my frighteningly unfinished seams) well help somewhat to visualize the pieces attached together, keeping in mind that I sewed the sleeves "flat" instead of setting them as per the Burda instructions.
To keep the edges of the shrug/bolero from "slipping" and/or "curling", I topstitched them to the front of the bodice. Unless my eyes deceived me, there was no mention of a way to secure the shrug to the bodice. But then my use of elastic (1/8" in width) necessitated the topstitching.
*It is definitely "hip-length" as described. Personally, I like the top a bit longer for my proportions. For taller ladies, I see the possibility of the top landing on the midriffs? However, I did not alter the length of my second version is past hip-length due to the "corrected" placement of the front to the upper back piece.
Other Observations
From the first version (red and white):
* Even after thinking that I matched the corresponding markings and seam numbers, somehow my front piece was shorter than the back piece by 1 1/4". I figured that this was how much lower the neckline should be. However, if I lowered the front by this amount, then it would not align with the lower part of the armscye that led to a side seam. So, after sewing the side seams, I snipped the length of the back to align with the length of the front (due to MY mistakes).
*After reading Christa's review, silly me, I did not properly place the upper edge on the shrug/bolero portion.
* I did not like the bunching at the seams below the shoulder and front armscye and the restrictive look at the upper chest seams (or simply tight below the shoulders and at the upper chest, moving the upper armscye seams toward the center), which I all attribute to operator error. I traced either the wrong size or just got confused with the congestion of lines. I noticed that the similar tops in other patterns featured the shrug/bolero and arms as being continuous piece.
*For both versions, I did my usual petite adjustments at my usual upper back and waist/hip area.
*For the first version due to being really totally clueless, I sewed the shrug and the bodice at the incorrect position. As a result the lower part of the shrug bypassed the upper edge front facing at the armscye (where they should have been joined to form seam), thus bringing up the neckline and the upper back pulling forward. You can compare the two knit tops from the inside view, and see the difference.
*For both versions, to prevent the edge of the back of the neckline leading to the front bodice from being "floppy", I sewed elastic (1/8" in width). For the first version, I elasticized the entire lower edge of the faux shrug/bolero transitioning to the rest of the neckline. For the second version, I only elasicized the neckline formed by the back piece: from one upper corner of the front, passing the shoulders and back of the neck, then to then to the other upper corner of the front. In both tops, the elastic used was about 2" less the actual length of the length involved.
*As mentioned earlier, I sewed the sleeves to the armscye, instead of setting them in.
*For the second version, anticipating the familiar depths of Burda decolletege as confirmed by Christa, I raised the neckline 1" by a quick "cut and spread" method: I cut the front pattern piece along the "fold" line for the front facing and spread the detached pieces 2" apart on the fabric.
Second (corrected) version, thanks to Christa's review!
* Lower edge of mock shrug/bolero is sewn to the armscye part of the front bodice (both marked seam number "1") unlike previously where I sewed the armscye to the upper edge of the shrug. Notice that the each seam of the armscye part of the front facing "transitions" to the neckline that encircle the upper chest, the shoulders, and the back of the neck. 
*For the second version, I shortened the sleeves 3/4" by a horizontal fold below the elbow after noticing that the sleeves run longer than usual in my first version. Even the models have to "push back" their sleeves.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I'm not sure. I still would recommend it. Maybe it is just me that I had some little challenges with this easy pattern due to my "goofs". Otherwise it could have easily been a 1.5 instead of 2 dotted pattern.
Somebody sneaked into the picture!
Conclusion:
I will try my McCall's 2254 from 1999 and compare.
I did not want to have my efforts go to waste and decided to wear it to the city's annual international car show (now one of our traditional family outings). Being a slightly chilly Saturday night, I wore a sweater (the flash makes it more transparent).
Heather "test driving" Hyundai's Veracruz.
Some highlights:
Dog "Chase". Heather is proudly wearing her first pair of leggings that she made mostly by herself! She used McCall's 6275, a "2011" pattern.
This pattern is sew new that as of this moment, it is not on the McCall's patterns website.
Honey, what do you think about this for our next car?
But, honey, check this out. There's a camera by the license plate. Come on....
My response: now, look at the price display. Hmmmmm.....It's nearly $70,000! Let's move on....
Ca-daddy Ca-dillac
Mom, I can give you the weather forecast from this Lexus!
Without paying $78,555, my child, I can get that info from our tv, newspaper, or the internet!!!
For $4,669, it would be practical to get a Vespa, just to get to and fro from work (technically a 2-minute drive to the high school where I teach, with no traffic)
What I call the "Shamu Mobile"
Probably one of the more "affordable" passenger cars, a Mini Cooper, with a base price of $21,800. It was popular with the look-i-loos. Lately, I have not been too much into "smaller" cars, but I do like this cute car.
Cool retro looking gauges:
Additional features, with not-so-cute prices...
I liked the color of the new Nissan murano. If only our 2004 Toyota Highlander came in that color...
Got Milk?
(and a Mrs. Field's Chocolate Chip Cookie, for $2.50 a cookie
:-( ... )
New Year's Re-SEW-lutions
(1) SEW more
(2) Minimize pattern and fabric buying
What a way to kick-off the new by buying NEW patterns? I have to stop reading those Jo-Ann flyers where I discover those pattern sales.
Earlier in December, I purchased some new Buttericks.
Yesterday's date was 1/1/11. In nine days, 1/11/11! That's what I call one-der-full! What are your new year's resolutions, or re-SEW-lutions?
Thanks for sharing your experience with this top. As soon as I saw it in the Burda magazine I knew I wanted to make it. I tried on that style in ready to wear a couple of years ago and loved the look on me. When I saw the Burda top I was worried that it would be too low as I have some chest and prefer not to show cleavage. After reading of your experience I will definitely go to PR and read up on this top and take my time when tracing the pattern and sewing. It will be my first try at a Burda from the magazine. And I know I will want mine to be longer. I'm 5'7" and my body type needs to go a little further down the hip. Thanks again for sharing.
ReplyDeleteI quite like your (higher) variation on the square neckline, because it's less...squarish or broad. I've passed by that pattern because I imagined it wouldn't be great on my square shoulders.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the heads up on the confusingness of that pattern! It was one of the few items I can see myself making from that issue. I think I actually have the 1999 McCall's in stash!
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