I Heard It Through the Grape Lines, Curves, and Flounces!






Pattern Description
From Burda:
"Shimmering emerald silk satin, a raised waist seam and fluttering tied flounces – this blouse porivides a perfect example of the new feminine Safari Style. Narrow épaulettes (shoulder tabs) and cuffs add sporty counterpoints."

Sing to the music and "The Beat Goes On"...

Chorus
And the flounces go round, the tiers go on
Needles keep pounding a rhythm to the plate,
La de da de de, la de da de da

The bodice posed no outrage, uh huh
Flouncing has turned the page, uh huh
Edging became the thing uh huh
Needle bopping became the king uh huh

Size
34-36-38-40-42.


Fabric
'Peter Max' style mod purple silk (100%) charmeuse from Emma One Sock


Pattern pieces
Front (x2), front band with self-facing (x2), back on fold (x1), flounce (1 pattern piece that is later separated on the cutting layout: upper, middle, and bottom flounce (x2 for each flounce), sleeve (x2), collar on a fold (x2). Shaded regions on layout are reserved for interfacing.

Directions
They were typical Burda lingo. I thought that the bodice went fairly easily (stitch shoulder seams, stitch front and back darts, stitch front bands (look like front facings to me) to the front edges, and creating the collar. The buttonholes were done before the flounces and sleeves. Seam numbers are included in the diagram of the pattern layout which came in handy when putting the pieces together.

But..... the flounces are another story. I was surprised that something really simple turned out to be complicated when done, when actually it was my fault for having that "piece of cake" attitude and not taking more time (which I already have) to really go over the cutting layout because I was so caught up in going over the directions word for word! It all started when not having the common sense to visualize which the upper, middle and lower flounces altogether! The cutting layout really did not help any because the flounces were not labeled adequately, just piece #4, flounce, which were cut on the bias! What happened was that I cut three flounces of the same width, with different lengths, instead of noticeably increasing widths (not very evident in the cutting layout) and different lengths! I was even careful to cut the other half of each flounce by inverting the pattern piece!

After finishing the blouse, I realized that the bottom flounce was the original pattern piece left uncut and the others were cut on the lines provided, being that the middle flounce was larger than the upper flounce.

Anyway, the assembly of the flounces seemed very vague or could have been rewritten. "On the middle and top flounces, turn the left opening alowances to the inside, baste at the top. Lay the middle flounce on the bottom flounce, wrong side to right, the top flounce on the middle flounce, wrong side to right, the top flounce on the middle flounce. Baste top edges together. Leave the opening allowances of the bottom flounce free. Stitch flounces to the bottom edges of front and back..." Huh? A little diagram would have helped here. So it's really easy to just to give up and put the top aside. I then realized that I cut the flounces incorrectly and do not have enough material to redo them! Arghhhh!

It would have helped it Burda put it this way and include an illustration:
Align the top edges of the flounces so that the that the right sides are showing for all pieces and the largest piece is the bottom layer with the smallest piece the upper flounce, giving a tiered effect. Maybe using too many words did not work after all in the flounce section!

Likes/Dislikes
*I like the upper bodice and sleeves.

*A serger would be handy to edge the flounces!

* The three tier flounces were not what I had hoped for. I stopped after the second tier of flounces.

* This top simply did not work for my figure type! I should have followed my initial instinct to do away with the flounces and lengthen the bodice!

Modifications
* The length of the upper bodice was fine, although I preferred it a tad longer. For those with longer torsos, plan to adjust the length accordingly.

* Omitted the size zipper. There was a "helpful hint" section on adding zippers. I also opted for size snaps. Since, I was able to slip the top over my head I sewed up the left side seam originally reserved for the zipper.

* I resorted to "doing my own thing" and attaching the middle layer (folded upper edge) to the already edged top flounce layer. I did not continue with the third flounce.

* I skipped the shoulder tabs and buttons. They would have been easy to add, but I thought they would look better on unprinted fabric.

* I added a front tie.


Conclusion
This is actually a fairly easy top if I had not assumed as I do when working with any of the big 4 patterms! Burda really tested the type of thinkers and learners we are: global vs. analytical. I over analyzed before getting the whole picture!

If I ever do sew this pattern again, I would skip the flounces and redraft a slightly aline lower bodice. Otherwise, this top is easy to construct and to modify.

I'll reserve the flounces for skirts or for the lower edges of dresses!

This blouse did not work for me, but would certainly work for another! ;-}