Saturday, June 14, 2008

CBS Rerun!

Oh no, another top with the "CBS Eyes" fabric! My fourth Jalie sweetheart neckline top! I made four version of this pattern four months ago.




Mini-me version:






My second version's neckline:




Oh no, another review of this pattern!

Next to chocolate chip cookies, I found a new addiction: Jalie's knit sweetheart top! Help!


I made four versions of this top 4 months ago. The one pictured is my fourth version and I could easily make my fifth in the near future!


Pattern Description:
"Top with sweetheart neckline, gathering at bust, neckline bands and choice of three-quarter or cap sleeve." I sewed not one, but four versions of View A, the top with the 3/4 sleeve!

Pattern Sizing:
27 sizes in one pattern! Wow! Instead of a "V" (37" bust), I sewed a "W" after reading the previous reviews regarding the fit.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, for the most part! I do agree that the neckline runs slightly lower than pictured on the model.


Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, after I worked with them before! The directions are printed on the folded pattern which was quite cumbersome. Again, I printed the #2794 directions from the Jalie website, stapled the pages and kept them handy.

This is the second Jalie pattern I worked with and I am used to their brevity in the descriptions of steps and satisfactory illustrations. The directions were organized in three sections:

1. Front
The steps consisted of stitching the center front elastic, attaching the front neck band, and easing the armholes of the front of the top.

There was the mark for the elastic placement which I missed the second time around! I found 9.2 cm, the recommended length of 1/4" wide elastic to be somewhat long for giving that "ruched" effect. I shortened the elastic by about 2 cm and was careful with the "stretch as you sew". For my first version, I used two pieces of elastic side by side because I was working with some really stretch mesh/knit! I noticed that my teal top had the nicest ruching. I had to really stretch the elastic for my third version to get it to even gather!

2. Yoke and back
The steps consisted of attaching the yokes (the bolero-like portions) to the back, attaching the neckbands along the edges of the yokes, right sides together. Again the illustrations helped. Jalie did not mention how to finish the center back of the neckbands (where they intersected). When I sewed my second and third versions, I joined the left and right neckbands, making about a 1/2" seam, which corresponded to the center back seam. Then I did not have problems "zig-zagging" the neckband to the neckline while lining up the front notches at the yoke

3. Assembly
The steps consisted of joining the front of the top to the back with the yokes, finishing the yoke/bolero bands, attaching the sleeves, and hemming the bottom

After reading the the vague "pin front to neckband seam allowances, matching notches", I was referred to the diagram that I looked at very carefully. The zigzagged portion of the neckband that was attached to the yoke is sewn to the armhole of the front of the top (right sides together, ease stitches adjusted so that notches coincide), which was easestitched in the the first section of the instructions.

However, the diagram was not clear on the location of the stitches joining front armhole to the band to the yoke/bolero piece. By instinct, I sewed them together about 1/4" from the edge of the front armhole. While working on my first version of the top, I looked ahead in the instructions and diagrams and noticed that ...a ha! The yoke/bolero bands, when pressed toward the center, will be topstitched which eventually cover those unsightly ease stitches!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the overall flattering fit of this top! The only thing is that the neckline is somewhat low, but maybe that was the intended design. The top requires as Deepika mentioned about 7/8 yard of fabric. As with working with any pattern for the first time, the only thing to dislike was encountering unfamiliar or unclear steps.

Fabric Used:
First version: meshy knit fabric, a leftover from my New Look 6729 Criss Cross top. Result: not great, but a wearable muslin.

Second version: teal fabric, a leftover from my Kwik Sew 70's knit shirt used for the bodice coupled with new fabric, smooth knit fabric with groovy circle print from Emma One Sock used for the bolero portion. Result: tight in the hip and waist area and I cut the neckband a little more than I should.

Third version: knit/spandex blend, leftover from my Simplicity 3682 knit top with drape front.

Fourth version: knit jersey, leftover from my Burda WOF tie blouse.


Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I shortened the top by about 1 1/2". For each top due to the variations in fabric, I fiddled with the elastic for the front center to get a decent ruching effect.

As an experiment, I reduced the gap in my second top (teal version) by shortening the neckband by about 1/2". As a result the yoke/bolero, moved towards the center thus decreasing the width of the sweetheart portion of the neckline!

I noticed that the necklines varied along with my fabric variations. The neckline of my first version has little ripples. The neckline of my third version was the most stable of the four tops.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I already sewed it four times! I plan to sew tops for other members of my family! Yes, I would definitely recommend this pattern! It does not require much time (especially after the first one, after you figure out some quirks) to cut and sew!

Conclusion:
I really liked this pattern and so far have been impressed with the Jalie fit and its current styles! This pattern provides the opportunity to use leftover fabric (reserved for those projects called the "I'll-make-something-from-these later" )to make something easy and wearable. Try this pattern and it could easily be your TNT with little or no alterations. You'll get hooked!

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