Crush Hour Traffic

I was in an "Orange Colored Sky" mood when I made this shirt. Adorable Natalie Gauci from Australian Idol Season 5, singing the Nat King cole classic. I like her voice and also her outfit, especially that skirt...


Pattern Description:
Princess seamed top with collar and lapel with sleeve variations.



Here's HotPatterns' narrative description:
The basic, go-anywhere, wear with anything shirt, designed for shirting weight cottons, crisp silks or soft rayons, or any shirt-weight fabric you wish! Fitted, single-breasted shirt has Princess seams front & back, a classic collar & rever, and finishes at the high hip. Shirt features a choice of three sleeve lengths: full length with a classic shirt cuff, as well as 3/4 length or short sleeve, both finished with a deep hem. Wear this versatile shirt with your favorite pants or skirt for a slick, classic look...it’s perfect for school, college, work, interviews, and any time you need to look your polished best.

Pattern Sizing:
Misses' multisized: 6-26 I sewed a "12" at the shoulders, tapering to a "14" at the bust and hips. I should have gone with my original instinct and sewed a "12".

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
At the princess seams, yes. Otherwise, my top does not seem to come from this pattern as illustrated on its envelope.


It more closely resembled a top (a 1969 McCall's pattern) I made three years ago with a wild collar.



Fabric Used
"Zazu Chandelier Lace Persimmon" in 100% cotton from Fabric.com (sold out) that I purchased just before Halloween, last month. I was surprised that for $2.4/yd, I received really quality fabric. I paid just under $5 for 2 1/2 yards (50% off the original and an additional 30% with a special online code).

Were the instructions easy to follow?
They were adequate. The diagrams are in my opinion, are not very helpful and seem to serve as prompts, or symbols of the actual steps. Because HP's presentation of the methods such as creating and finishing the sleeve vent and creating and attaching a collar are vague, I recommend referring to sewing reference books, online tutorials, or even directions from a Big 4 pattern or a Kwik Sew.

Thanks to Rebecca and Karla Kizer for mentioning about Pam's tutorials for the collar and lapel which are very helpful in constructing the collar and lapel, especially where they overlay. I wish I had these handy!

Collar tutorial, part one.

Collar tutorial, part two.



There is also no reference to what are wrong or correct sides of fabric and how to for instance, lay the front and back facing onto the rest of the shirt, prior to sewing them on (as one unit).

Something I do not recollect doing with wovens, is sewing the sleeves in flat, per the directions.


Favorite Features
* Princess seams

* Sleeve variations

* Whoa, my collar made me feel like Johanna Travolta ready to boogie beneath the glitter ball......Caution: the collar is larger than illustrated on the envelope.


Not-so-favorite Features
*The shirt is not fitted as I had anticipated. It seems to run a size or even nearly sizes larger on me. Even after taking in each seam 1/4", the shirt is still roomy.

* My collar and lapels are further apart (most likely my doing), whereas the illustrations show them nearly overlapping on the models.

* There was some extra pleating at the front between the upper sleeve and lapel due to excess fabric.

*The sleeve caps have excess ease.

*After I sewed the seams of the long sleeves, I felt overwhelmed by their size, which contradicted the more fitted look on the envelope. Along with the large collar and really bright orange, they threw the shirt out of balance. I felt the need to shorten them.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
*I wanted to eliminate the drag lines on the sides when I wore my Deco Vibe Tango shirt. I suspect they were visible because I did not make my needed adjustments.

* I made a 3/4" horizontal tuck on the side and center back pattern pieces to eliminate the familiar little ripples and/or puffiness in the upper back.

*I made a 1" petite adjustment to all pieces. However, I added 3/4" to the length to also accommodate for the lower hem. According to HP's description, the shirt is hip level and I like mine a little below that. If you have a longer torso, beware the length, especially if you like to wear your tops below hip level.

*I reduced the collar 1/4" along the edges.

*I took in the sleeve sleeve caps a maximum of 1/2".

* I shortened the sleeves and still I was not satisfied with the way the sleeves jutted out, making me look like I was ready to go bowling, retro style. To simultaneously balance the entire look of the shirt due to the the roominess at the waist and hips, and to avoid the "retro bowler" sleeve look, I added an elastic casing (5/8" hem) and elastic (1/4" wide, cut two inches longer than the circumference at my upper arm and adjusted) at the sleeve hem.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I am not sure if I would sew it again. I had high hopes for it. Then I created a little temporary belt from the remaining fabric and liked it much better. If you have or intend to purchase this pattern, I definitely recommend making a muslin or wearable muslin before delving into scrumptious fabric.

Conclusion:
It was really not a difficult top to sew, although it was not "Minute Made", but more like 5-6 Hours Made.

Cute, clever, and entertaining clip from The Nat King Cole Show, 1957. Betty Hutton and Nat King Cole's sing each other's song, especially Orange Colored Sky and more when they later appear on stage (even opera!). Today's shows do not compare to this.