Friday, February 23, 2007

Shawl Collars!

Shawl collar jackets from Nordstrom's and Macy's:

($189)

($129)




I would say this jacket took 3 full evenings to complete. I took two days off from working on it and finally completed this evening (I just need to finish one of the arm holes after inserting the sleeve lining). I want to finish this immediately so that I resume other projects (i.e. Heather's new Lizzie McGuire dressy jacket and pink skater outfit).

I really like the style of the jacket. It is fitted (too fitted for me at this moment, flattering princess seams, and has a little bit of that 80's look.


I notice that the left model's jacket has slight bunching in the front. So I wonder if it has to do with the buttons tugging the loops. Whereas on me, it is more pronounced due to my post baby belly.
.



Likes of Simplicity 4281: Classic style and fit. The design of the upper arms, shoulders and low shawl collar already gives an illusion of broader shoulders. So, I did not attach shoulder pads according to the instructions.

Dislikes:
The jacket had some wrinkles in the waist area, concentrated from the button loops and button area. My sewing machine had some difficulty attaching the loops to the front side due to the thickness.

Unclear directions on attaching the sleeve lining, finishing the cuffs on the wrong side of the jacket with the sleeve lining, and finishing the bottom hem of the jacket with the lining. I "bagged" the lining and was impressed on how it turned out. The back contour of the jacket was flattering, however, the darts need to be reworked so that the jacket does not puff out.

When I get the chance, I plan to create another jacket after some weight loss

Close up of the buttons:


I used some woven cotton (light twill) and lining remaining from Heather's Snow White costume.





What I've learned:
I plan to lengthen the jacket by another 2 inches, for an uncropped look. I was surprised that the jacket was already at hip length for my short torso. It seems like the back of the jacket piece was much shorter than the length of the front jacket. From the pattern envelope, it did not seem that the back should be longer than the front. I was wondering if this had to do with insertion of the lining. While sewing the lining to the back, I deducted about 3/4" from the back edge so that the front and back hems would line up nicely.

Add some type of binding the seams at the button hole loops to decrease bunching at the waist.

Use a different type of interfacing to decrease the roll of the collar. The collar was an extension of the front of the jacket and was folded back after the attachment of the facings and lining. I used a slightly heavy type of sew in interfacing (what I have on hand) and a fusible type or some type of adjustment would have probably decreased the slightly inward roll of the collar.

The upper arms, just below the shoulder area seem to be slightly wider, most likely to accommodate the shoulder pads, which I omitted so that I don't feel like a football player. It feels and looks as if I were wearing shoulder pads due to the slightly firm nature of the fabric and my build. If I were using another type of fabric and opt out of using shoulder pads, I would decrease the upper arm allowance.

There was a slight puffiness on my upper back. Is is due to the darts being large or small or being a bit high or low? As you can see, I am not a fitting/sewing expert. I usually omit darting or opt for princess seaming in the back, which seem to flatter me more.

I like the style which is reminiscent of the 80's and can complement any figure.

*******************************************************************************************************
Finally found some quick and easy pants with a wide waistband and no zipper!









No comments:

Post a Comment

Thank you for visiting! Anonymous comments will be moderated and spam comments will be discarded and not published. Leave a name, if you do not have a blogger ID.