Have It Your Way!

It's time to build-a-jacket consisting of the following elements:

Collar and buttons:
Michael Kors Satin Swing Jacket from Macy's for 179.50


Gathered effect
Ella Moss' Charleston cropped jacket from SFA for $183:


Bell sleeves:
Kensie Girl's cropped jacket from Nordy's for $74:


Frenchi's bell sleeved jacket from Nordy's for $68:


and voila we get a jacket from Simplcity's 3538:


My pattern envelope:


My first version:


Finally, got it done by 3pm today (one evening and morning-afternoon!) This was more time extensive than I anticipated!


If you like the concept of building your own burger or building-a-bear, and so forth, then you probably will enjoy to have it your way and build your own jacket! It's like given a menu of 20 pieces and telling oneself, "I'll have a long, not cropped, high collar jacket with a gathered front, bell sleeves on the side, topped with two buttons and do not forget the lining!"


Pattern Description

Misses' jacket in two lengths with yoke, collar and sleeve variations. Originally upon looking at the pattern collection advertised on the Simplicity website, I was led to believe that the outfits were either inspired by Project Runway designs or featured on the famous tv show. Oops, I was duped! "Project Runway inspired" was far from my expectations, and the jackets pictured on the envelope look like reinvented styles of previous and current patterns. That sneaky Simplicity!

The "sketch and stitch from concepts to design to reality" page contains a croquis (from the French word meaning a rough draft: sketch) kit and some design tips, workroom tips, and a paragraph about acquiring and using inspiration to create an outfit or an entire wardrobe. The croquis skit is simply a printed template or layout of the design elements (low/high collar, types of sleeves, gathered or flat front) on which you can use tracing paper to sketch and slide from one element to another. There's even a sketch of a nude, bald and faceless paper doll to "try on" an outfit and sport a hairstyle of your choice! Another alternative would be to xerox several copies of the template and cut and paste. This sure reminds me of playing paper dolls and "fashion plates" ! I have not really watched an episode of Project Runway to safely conclude that Simplicity's croquis kit or the printed pattern elements comes close to playing Project Runway in the comfort and convenience of your home!

It was straightforward to figure out pieces I needed for the view that I wanted without spending the time to draw, paste cutouts of each design element, and color pictures. This would be definitely great for creating a storyboard or a bulletin board of inspirations and favorite designs to create a "dream" wardrobe.

Size
12-20. I sewed a "14".

Fabric Used
Mystery pinstripe rayon/polyester from Joann's clearance section for $2.50 yard. Total cost of jacket: well under $10!

Modifications/alterations
Nothing major. I sewed a small silver bead to each button's center to add a little spark. Each button had nice cutout design of a five-petaled flower which could be easily seen on lighter colored fabric.

My collar came out not as huge as pictured on the model.


Directions

This is the first pattern I used that did not have the full cutting layout shown for each view along with the list of the pieces by their labeled numbers. The cutting layout was shown for each "design element": collar (low, high), ), yoke (for low or high collar), gathered or flat front bodice below the yoke, sleeve (short puffy, long puffy, long with slit, belled past the elbow. In fact, I referred to the sketch of all 20 pieces and analyzed the pattern pieces after cutting to determine what I needed for the bell-sleeved view featured on the pattern envelope. Then I listed the pattern piece numbers next to the technical sketch.

The directions and illustrations were overall fine. I found it helpful to pencil mark the sections I needed for a particular style, paying attention to the references to the type of collar (low, high), front bodice style (gathered or flat), sleeve style (short puffy, long puffy, long with slit, belled past the elbow), and the type of yoke (for low or high collar).


What did you like/dislike about the pattern

I liked the overall jacket's silhouette and the slightly flared sleeves

The lining was sewn the same way as the jacket, but sans the collar. All of the lining pieces were cut from the same pieces used for the bodice, yoke and back. I noticed that the front interfaced facings were attached to the lining differently from the last time I sewed jacket/blazer with pieces specifically designed for the lining.

I sewed each of the interfaced front facing pieces (bias tape binding on the the free edges) to the front edge of the lining so that the wrong side of the front facing is on the correct side of the lining. Then to secure the front facing, I sewed along edges of the bias binding.

I like the fact the lining was easy to attach to the jacket. I sewed it to the edges of the jacket, right sides together. Then I turned the jacket right side out through one of the armholes. I was pleasantly surprised that the front facing stayed nice and flat beneath the front edges of the jacket!

I was not really too "jazzed" up about Simplicity's croquis kit concept, which seemed like a marketing ploy to me. I would have like the pattern better without it!


Would you recommend this pattern?

Yes because it provides the potential to create endless styling options! The jacket is somewhat boxy. I like princess seamed jackets due to their flattering fit, but it is sometimes fun to try something else for a change. The slightly gathered front adds some shaping in the bust area. I would caution about the length. Even the "long" version seemed like a slightly cropped-style jacket on me without adjustments!

But if you want an easy jacket to be done in less time, I would recommend the very easy Vogue jackets. Variations in style could contribute to increased sewing time. My bell ruffle sleeves and collar might be the culprits for time investment. But on a positive note, I was glad that the pinstripes of the top part of the sleeve lined up with the ruffle and that the pinstripes came out at an angle and symmetrical at the collar (that's too make up how the yoke stripes and bottom did not align due to the gathers)!


Conclustion

The jacket was easy to put together, but somewhat time-consuming than I thought for a simple design! It seemed as if I were making nearly two jackets with the addition of the lining for back and front yoke pieces, the front and back below the yoke pieces, and the sleeve portion above the bell ruffle. I have not used lining in awhile. But it does give the jacket some shape and needed layering, especially for chilly days!

I honestly did not care for the sketching and coloring page. Simplicity could have done away with this concept and replace it with the actual designs of what was featured on Project Runway!