Wednesday, January 02, 2008

What's Your Pleather or Paisley?

Juicy Couture's red pleather jacket from Saksy's for $328!!! What in the world?!




Vogue 2958



I made two versions of this freebie pattern.

The first was from "pleather" (total cost under $10!). As I can see from the puckers, I had difficulty working with this fabric.


The second from a lightweight corduroy. It actually looks better up close and personal.


Rating: Average

I got this as my freebie pattern from Vogue Patterns. I was lured by the stylish jacket!

Pattern Description:
Misses'/Misses' Petite Jacket, Bustier, Dress, Skirt and Pants. I made Jacket A which "is fitted, lined to edge with shaped front and back princess seams, collar, back has darts with slit, full length sleeves with elbow darts and shoulder pads."

Pattern Sizing:
10-12-14. I made the "14"


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? In my opinion, the collar only!

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. They were easy to follow and sufficient enough for an advanced beginner. The jacket overall was straightforward to construct, but time-consuming.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the overall style of the jacket (especially the unusual collar!) but it ended up being too form fitted for my taste, emphasizing my hips and my tush! The neckline came lower than what I expected and which could be remedied by wearing a camisole. The jacket consists of only six pieces, but I had to take into account cutting front facings made from the same fabric and the lining pieces (for the back, the side front, side back, and the sleeves).

Oh no! This jacket requires so much fusible interfacing. The first step was to interface the front, back, side front, side back and the collar. That's quite extensive because I usually interface only the collar and front facings. It would make sense to do, especially if I were working with fabric that frays easily. With the fabric I was using, I did not think it was necessary to interface the back and the sides. But I did so, anyway.


The side fronts and side backs did not ease well into the "L"-shaped curve of the front and backs of the jacket! It seemed as if the side front and back pieces belonged to another jacket! I had difficulty matching up the notches and pinning the seams together! I ease-stitched the side fronts and side backs (similar to ease-stitching sleeve heads).

The width of the shoulder section of the front came about 1/2" wider than the back shoulder (after the dart). I was wondering if the back darts were not taken into consideration when Vogue drafted the front. I ease-stitched the front shoulders. I adjusted the front shoulder seam to fit the back shoulder seam as I pinned the seams together.

Fabric Used:
Printed lightweight corduroy.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
Shortened the sleeves by 1 3/4" By looking at the pattern envelope, the sleeves were a little past the model's wrist. The instructions were not clear on how to finish the hems of the sleeves after turning them up 2" (5 cm). I stitched a 1/4" baby hem from the raw edge, folded a 2" as instructed from the inside of the sleeve witht the baby hem tucked under, and slipstitched or hand sewed the new hem in place.

I drafted and sewed my own semi-circular shaped shoulder pads using the same fabric filled with some fleece remnants. I cut 4 pieces, two for each shoulder pad. I sewed two pieces, rights together at the curved edges, leaving the straight side to turn the pad pocket inside out. Then I filled the pad pocket with the fleece remnants. Then I sealed the filled pocket by sewing the edge with the raw edges tucked in and voila, an instant home-made shoulder pad!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I'll give this pattern a rest for now I spent two full evenings working on the jacket. If I have a lot of time, I would sew this jacket again after redrafting the pieces. I would recommend it if you want to give yourself a challenge and you might have better luck than I did! I discovered after making the jacket according to my usual size, that it is more fitted than what is represented on the envelope! It seems like the size "14" fits like a "10" (a 10 petite?) in pattern sizing!

Conclusion
This is probably the first time that I have sewn an "Average" rated Vogue. I was disappointed in the outcome, but I might know a good friend who might like this and fit into this! So my efforts are not in vain! Now I am ready to sew a DKNY jacket (I already have the pattern pieces cut!)

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