The pattern has those cool arched gathers that can flatter any figure!
Rewind 28 years ago to 1980.....
Burda has a dress with that gathered arch!
Pattern Description
"You don't always need a costume/skirt suit to be feminine and elegant. There are other solutions, and this duo is a case in point. A long-sleeved, mock-wrap-over top in dot-print jersey with plunging neckline is comfortably tucked into the high, shaped waistband of trousers/pants of softly flowing wool faille."
Top: Burda sizes 38 - 46. I sewed a "40".
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
For the most part yes, except I did not take the Burda WOF "plunge".
Fabric Used
Stretch jersey (Gorgeous Fabrics) left over from a Jalie crossover top. This top actually consumed less fabric than I estimated (1 1/2 yards)
Favorite Features
*Gathering below the left bust point arching towards the center (My favorite feature!)
*Only five pieces to work with: left piece, lower left front, right piece, back, sleeve. I made sure to transfer all markings that include the asterisks along the right front piece designating the location of the gathers and the vertical marks on the left front and lower left front pieces designating the placement of the right front.
Not so favorite features
*Really low neckline
*Sleeves would have been really long if I added the hem allowance. (I'm not a well proportioned person. I have a short torso and long arms).
Other Features
*There was slight more ease at the shoulders. I probably could have gotten away with a "38" at the shoulders for a more snug fit.
*Set-in sleeves. I actually followed this step instead of sewing them in flat for knits. I attibute this to force of habit from sewing with non-knits.
Directions
Surprisingly logical and satisfactory, especially if you have sewn knit tops before!
However, there was the tricky section on joining the left and right fronts that I read several times: attaching the wrong side of the wearer's right gathered edge to the right side of the wearer's left curved edge. Then I attached what Burda refers to as the "narrow" (curved) side of the lower left piece over the visible gathered seam, finger pressing as I sew due to sewing three layers of fabric together. Due to the seam curvature and elasticity of the fabric, the fabric had a tendency to bunch up a little between the sewing foot and plate, making it easy to sew that annoying little pleat captured in the seam (is this familiar to anyone?) despite being extra cautious. Yes, I confess.....I had to remove some stitches and redo part of the seam.
Side Issue
I found myself somewhat obsessively and compulsively checking that all 3 layers were properly situated (the left front, the right front that crossed over the left from the outside, and the lower left front) to sew each side seam. I have had my share of getting fabric twisted and portions that missed the seams!
Modifications
You Raise Me Up
* I raised the neckline 2", slowly tapering to 0" below the shoulders. I'm glad I did this! This time I could even get by without wearing a camisole, because of the modest neckline.
...to sew on stormy seams
* Omitted the back neck facing. I was able to get away with folding under a 5/8" hem (with a scant hem of the raw edge tucked underneath) and using a very narrow zig-zag. Since I do not have a serger, I used a 1.5 width and 2.5 length setting on my trusty sewing machine.
* Shortened the arm length by 1/2" above the original length printed on the pattern page.
* Stabilized the shoulder seams using a rectangular piece of fusible interfacing.
Conclusion
I definitely plan to sew more versions of this top again. It took me only one evening to sew my first version and will go much smoother the next time. I just added this pattern as a new favorite!
If you have a copy of this Burda WOF, I highly recommend this top for a nice and simple project to sew that is both comfortable and stylish! I also recommend it as a first time Burda WOF project!
Really awesome!
ReplyDeleteHey lady! Where is your RSS feed button??? I want to add you to my Bloglines Feed list and haven't figured out how to add your blog without the button.
ReplyDelete