A silk cashmere top with "balloon" sleeves from Spiegel for $89 (edited Dec 2009)
Update from summer 2009. Here's my fourth version of this Burda WOF flounced sleeve top from the January 2009 issue. I used the border print of a Maggie London poly jersey along the arms.
Here's my third version in poly jersey fabric also from EmmaOneSock.com. I wore this for the first time during our visit to Sweden. 
The reviews on this pattern in PR were more inspiring than when I first saw this pattern in the magazine:
I recently decided on a whim to trace, cut, and sew it. Randomly I selected an issue, January 2009, and voila, I found it! I chose cheap $1/yd rib cotton knit, and surprisingly did not encounter any major challenges even when using a sewing machine instead of a serger.
II was inspired by the happy PRers who previously reviewed this flounced-sleeve top!
If you are interested in something inspirational and uplifing, check out this updated version of a 1981 classic which is needed for this day and age...
Don't Stop Be-Sleeving...Sew beyond the ceiling...
Pattern Description
Non-Burda description: Knit top with v-neck to be edged with front/back facing. Each sleeve consists two pieces: the upper center piece and a much larger piece that consists of the front and back sleeve portions transitioning to a flounced cuff. The upper center piece is flanked by the front and back sleeves, and is sewn to the gathered upper edge of the cuff.
Size
I cut and sewed a Burda WOF '40' with seam allowances.
Fabric
First version: $1/yd red cotton ribbed knit.
Second version: $1/yd cami pink/purple/white mystery poly/lycra knit. I'm trying to reduce some fabric stash.
I made Heather's Butterick 4970 dress before my top. She reminded me about this fabric to which she refers as the "Girly Cow Fabric".Favorite Features
*Flounced sleeves, with actual gathering below top center piece of sleeve.
Depth-eche Mode
* Neckline depth (I raised it 3/8" center tapering to 0 at shoulders, just in case). I discovered that for this pattern, Burda drifted from its usual plunging necklines to a very tasteful and flattering neckline for any woman.
* I actually liked the finish of the neckline due to using a front/back neck facing. I used this facing for my first version in the ribbed cotton knit and omitted the understitching since I was using a less stable type of knit. For me, much iron pressing was needed to keep the facings in the garment before tacking them to the shoulders and the front. I was surprised that the neckline stayed more intact than I expected. I encountered very little droop after wearing the top for an entire day.
Other Features
* Tall sleeve caps. Is this typical of Burda WOF? I took about 1/2" from the top center tapering to 0" at the lower edge of the armscye.
* I would need to lower the armscye a tad.
*Large, strange-looking compound pattern piece (shaped like a " |_| ") that consists of a front and a back sleeve joined by a rectangular section at the central bottom. This rectangular section would be the flounced sleeve, with gathers between the two marked dots. I did not have a problem stitching the central sleeve piece between the front and the back sleeves. The tricky part for me was making the pivot at the corners where the upper center portion of the sleeve, either the front or back portion of the sleeve, and the gathered edge of the sleeve merge.
Modifications
First version
* None
Second Version
* Omitted the front/back neckline facing in favor of turning the facing under making a narrow zig zag. It's about time to leave the No Serge to Urge Yetters and to purchase a serger to simplify matters. Even my hubby thinks I should do so...
New Order
* I changed the order by preparing and attaching the sleeves before sewing the side seams and finishing the neckline.
Don't Stop Be-Sleeving
*Separated the flounced sleeve detail (central bottom rectangle) from the awkward front/back sleeve compound piece. Many thanks to Belinda's (a.k.a. Sew4Fun) cool review for making this possible. She included a link to her modified pattern pieces. Yeah, I avoided making that awkward pivot!
* Sewed sleeves in flat, instead of setting them as directed.
Conclusion
And I Just Can't Sew Enough, and I Just Can't Sew Enough...
This pattern is great for beginners and as a nice introduction to knits. I plan to sew a few more in more upscale fabric now that I am better acquainted with this pattern. My next version will have short sleeves with little cascading ruffles situated along the neckline, similar to a top I that I saw in a catalog.
I also definitely recommend making a wearable muslin to determine fit, neckline depth and style preferences.
I could use more dresses...
Great tops. You've done a really fine job on them.
ReplyDeleteHow come I never new you had a blog???
ReplyDeleteWell at least I know now, thanks for enlightening me:))
Great top, very flattering. And your reviews are always so fun. Since you're into retro you have to come see our show when it's back up- music from the late fifties and early sixties. A bit earlier than you're used to but still rockin' :))
Read your review at PR. Great looking top. I want to make this one up also.
ReplyDeleteSo pretty! I love how you match with ur daughter. Love it love it love it! :)
ReplyDeleteI love that your daughter calls is "girly cow fabric". That is adorable! Fantastic job on all the shirts, the more I see you sew the more I think I need a subscription to BWOF.
ReplyDelete