Sleeves and Stripes Forever

This is one of the few patterns, besides the bohemian dresses from the September 2009 issue that caught my attention.

This is also a work in progress and by not yet a "a final version". I hope that my many imperfections will not deter you, but maybe at least be helpful if you are interested in making your version. I hope that after a few tweaks, I soon will have a TNT version.

Pattern Description:
"Waistcoat or blouse? It's both! The sleeves and lapels are of jacquard fabric and the rest is of metallic pinstripes. Traditional Alpine buttons add glamorous glitter down the front."



Cameron Diaz in Burda??

Pattern Sizing:
Burda petite/half sizes 17 to 21. I sewed a "20". I should have used a "21" for the bust and hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
For the most part, yes. My sleeves did not puff out as much as Burda's. I omitted the little ruffles encircling the lower edges of the sleeves and the trim at the lower hem.

Fabric
Poly pin-striped fabric with some stretch from FashionistaFabrics.com. This was very pleasant to work with!

The sleeves came from a Frederick's skirt composed of some poly jersey and velvet burnout(??) that formed the curved designs. I have not worn this skirt for years and thought I give it a new life by cutting out sleeves for this waistcoat.




Favorite Features
* Vest-like style
* Distinctive pleated sleeves
* Not-so-low neckline. I pressed the lapels which are each the length of one of my Bic pen markers for the length of each of my lapels. Wow! My neckline passed the modesty test when a camisole does not need to be worn with the buttons fastened.


Not-so-favorite Features
*Even after adding an 1" to the lower hem, I still found the waistcoat/blouse a tad short.


* Maybe due to the fabric, I spent more time in pleating the sleeves and fitting the entire sleeve into the armscye. I added an extra pleat on either side of the sleeve to make it fit. My sleeves seemed "limpier" and "wimpier" than Burda's. I also had some trouble with the lower edges of the sleeves. Since I opted to omit the ruffles, I did not finish the hems with zig-zags. Instead I sew a 5/8" hem and encountered "bulk" due to the pleats at the lower edge of the seams. I plan to turn and press the edges under once again and secure the new hems by handstitching.

*The lower back hem of the waistcoat. Stay tuned about this later in the review.

*Due to my imprecise cutting, the upper lapels turned out more rounded.





Were the instructions easy to follow?
They were concise and adequate for those who familiar sewing tops and jackets with princess seams and collars. Maybe at this point, I am already too familiar with Burda WOF's directions that these seemed satisfactory.

Already in the first bullet in the construction, I received the entire bodice nearly completed sans the sleeves and front facing: "Stitch centre fronts to side side fronts and centre back to side backs. Press seam allowances open. Stitch side seams and shoulder seam on blouse and on facing." Whoa...This already seems more than a carload for the first time Burda WOF-er.

Next steps
* sewing the collar pieces together (one of them is interfaced)

* basting the collar to the neckline, attaching the front interfaced facings right sides together along "the hem edge, front edges, and neck edge, catching collar in between."

*stitching the sleeve seams and pleating the sleeves following the arrow between pairs of marked lines. I skipped "neatening" the sleeves edges with a zig zag stitch.

*creating the ruffles according to style 106 and attaching to lower edges of sleeves

*** CAUTION*** I inadvertently omitted the back hem facing that should have been sewn to the front facings. I recently re-read the directions and Burda did not mention the back hem facing (narrow piece, longer than the back facing), assuming the sewist knows what to do with it. I originally thought I was remiss in not accurately accounting for the lower hem because I had very little hem allowance with respect to lower edge of the front facings.






*setting in the sleeves, add the buttonholes and adding trim to the lower edge of the waistcoat.



Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
*Used the pinstriped fabric instead of jacquard for the front facing

* Omitted the decorative sleeve ruffles and the lower edge trim

*As mentioned earlier used material from a former skirt instead of jacquard for the sleeves

*Used French seams at the sides and side backs. I topstitched the front princess seams.

*Finished edges of the front facings and back facings with zigzags over 3/8" folded hems

*Due to my oversight, I omitted the back hem facing. That is what I get for not thinking outside of the Burda Box. I should have attached it to the attached to the front facings. Instead I turned and pressed the hem allowance affected by the front facings and stitched. Then I hand-stitched the front facings to the side seams. It would have been "sleeker" to use the back facings to avoid some challenges. Geez, it would have been EASIER to create a lining for the entire bodice!

*I found 5 buttons from a bag of buttons I purchased from Michael's craft store. I was inspired by Burda WOF's photo of Cameron Diaz (??)wearing the waistcoat to use vintage looking and unmatched buttons.




Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I plan to sew another one, but using sleeves from another pattern. I recommend this pattern due to its versatility and flattering fit. I found the jacket really, really, really fitted. Fortunately, I used a stretched poly that was really, really, really forgiving!


Conclusion:
Despite my experiences with this pattern, I was able to spend two full evenings sewing the waistcoat and sleeves. Just a change of fabric, buttons, embellisments, and sleeves, and voila...infinite possibilities!