Brigitte BURD-Deux

Ms. Bardot's iconic fashion style inspired Burda Style's June 2011 issue.

The necklines that BB wore that are still fashionable today. 

I searched for some "easy" but still distinctively stylish projects.  I sewed top #124A and after not being satisfied with that, I sewed #122.

Pattern #124A

 

Pattern #122A

This top (#124A) in a gingham print was also part of Burda's tribute to particular styles strongly associated with Brigitte Bardot, an international and legendary fashion icon.  A wide headband and a deeply scooped neckline look fresh today as they did more than forty years ago.

Brigitte in blue and pink gingham.  She was a gingham bride during her wedding ceremony with Jacques Charrier, her second husband.

 

Pattern Description:
"TEMPTRESS Blouse 124A, Burda Sizes 36-44, Tres chic - even on the way to the beach, and the French don't have a monoply on this! In the Gingham check blouse with scooped Carmen neckline and 3/4-length raglan sleeves you'll look great wherever you are..."



Pattern Sizing:
Burda Misses' 36-44. I sewed a "38" at the shoulders and a "40" elsewhere. I found the top quite spacious for me and probably could have gotten away with two sizes smaller.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, like the drawing, but not so much like the gingham top on the model because she has it tucked in, which conceals its "puffiness".

Fabric Used:
Some funky Michael Miller cotton called "Mezzanine Clover Dots" from fabric.com. My eyes deceived me. The fabric seemed to be more appealing on-line than in person...

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I only read carefully the sections that contained the list of pattern pieces to be used, the cutting layout and the first step of construction, "Stitch side and sleeve seams."

I did not pay too much to the rest of the steps after quickly reading them. Maybe something got lost in the translation. I wonder if the word "stitch" should replace "press seam allowance" to make a step more clear. If you are familiar with sewing tops/blouses with (a) raglan sleeves. (b) gathering edges, (c) a banded neckline (in this case, stitching a folded bias strip over a neckline on the inside or "wrong side" of a garment, turning it over to the outside and topstitching it very close to the edge), then you can sew the top without referring to Burda's notorious verbage, or what those with Burda experence referred to as "Burdalese".

Favorite Features
*There were only three main pieces to trace and cut (front, back, and sleeve) and also there were rectangular strips with specific measurements to cut (one for the neckband, two for the sleeve band, and one for the hem band). Corresponding to the size I used for the neckline ("38), I cut an 84 cm strip of fabric on the bias. I substituted the sleeve and hem bands with elasticized casings.

*Fairly easy to put together.

Not-so-favorite Features
*This style what I call a "ballooney blouson" does not work for me, being short waisted and not slender as the model.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
* Since it was somewhat a challenge for me to simultaneously distribute equitably the gathers while sewing the neckline band, I took a cue from the top displayed by itself, without the model, that appeared to have pleats situated in congruent intervals along the edge of the band. I strategically placed 3 pleats symmetrically as much as possible.

The pleats are more evident in this photo (even though it is somewhat blurry when it is enlarged). It is about time to get a new camera for blurry photos.

*Added 1" to the sleeve length and the low edge of the top.

*I added 1" to the length. It would seem that the top would be waist length or shorter for a person with a long torso.

*I used elasticized casings instead of folded bias strips for the sleeve
bands and the hem band.


Pour la Plage?
One top from this pattern is enough because its bagginess does not work well with my figure.   I prefer tops with more shaping.  After re-reading the description provided on the Burda page, "Tres chic, even on the way to the beach...", maybe this top in a lightweight fabric would make an ideal cover-up at the beach.

Next pattern, #122:
A nearly off-the-shoulder top with a bateau neckline:

Pattern Description:
From the June 2011 issue Burda Style, page 13:
"Beautiful Brigitte Shirt/top 122...A look that is typical for the young Bardot - and is just as popular today. The black fitted shirt of cotton satin with widthwise stretch features a chic, flattering bateau neckline."

Pattern Sizing:
Burda Misses' Petite 17-21. I sewed a "19" at the shoulders and neckline tapering to a "21" at the hips.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it looked very much like the technical line drawing and the photo of the top without the model. It was hard to see the actual scoop of the top's neckline on the model because it was covered with what looked like a scarf.

My first version in a lightweight rayon jersey knit. 

Were the instructions easy to follow?

If you have sewn any top with three main pieces: front, back, and sleeve, then consider the directions as concise cues, especially if you ignore the directions for the front and back facing and the invisible zipper.  An invisible zipper and the given front and back facings are more suited for non-knits. 

The order that I used was
* Stitch the shoulder seams
* Attach the sleeves to the armscyes
* Stitch the shoulder seams and side seams as one continuous seam
* Topstitch the hems of the neckline, sleeves, and the lower edges of the front and back.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
*Appearance of streamlined side shaping in contrast to the "up, up, and away" blouson style of pattern #124A from the same issue of Burda Style magazine.

*Center back seam

*Although I like the front darts, I prefer them on wovens

*Very simple to sew, and even better with a coverstitch or a serger when sewing with knits.

*Nothing to dislike except for the bra straps peeping out due to the wide neckline and short shoulder seam. I think a bateau neckline is flattering on all figures.


Fabric Used:
A rayon jersey that contains 95% rayon and 5% lycra.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
* I added 2" to the printed pattern's length.
* Replaced the front and back facings for the neckline with a topstitched hem.
*Sewed sleeves "in flat" instead of "setting them in" per directions.

*While pinning the sleeve cap to the armscye, there was excess fabric that extended beyond the seam. I graded the sleeve cap/armscye seams by trimming at most approximately 3/8" width of fabric beyond their edges.

*Omitted the invisible zipper at the left seam due to using a knit instead of the recommended "cotton satin with crosswise stretch".

*For the second top, I used the same front pattern piece, but with the vertical darts folded out, thus bringing in the side seams.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Most likely I would sew this again, but in a stretch woven as recommended. This pattern is also ideal for beginners and for first-time Burda Style sewists.