Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Coral Blossoms and May Burda without the "Marc" Up

Heather and I recently went to the mall to scout for sales at her favorite stores (The girl's section at Forever 21 and Abercombie).  Before we visited her favorite stores,  we visited Bloomingdale's, not only to use its classy WC, but also to do some "snoop" shopping.  We admired the vibrantly colored dresses at the Marc Jacobs department.

The coral nylon and lace was an appropriate length for Heather.


"Muriel Lace" for $348 was not an appropriate price for me to pay for such a dress.  Divide that by 10 and it would be more reasonable.


Somebody also had an eye for splashes of red, blue, green, yellow, and pink.  The drawstring shoulders are nice features. 


It was a coincidence to see that Heather's "hand-near-ear-and-hands-on-hip" pose "reflected" this model wearing the same dress featured on Bloomingdales.com referred to as the "Exclusive Super Nova Blossom Knit" for $298. The price is a super no-no for me.

 
 The drawstring shoulders of the "Super Nova Blossom Knit" dress "drew" me to this Burda top (#109) from next month's issue that I received this just a few days ago, much earlier than expected.  However the drawstring extends the entire length of the front of the neckline, with each end tied to a drawstring emerging from a back encased shoulder seam.

Pattern #109 from May 2012 of Burda Style magazine



I like the top, but easily envisioned it to be a dress as inspired by the Marc Jacobs colorful one. Since I had access already to the May issue, I sifted through it to find a close-fitting skirt.  Then a flash from an unknown "super nova" came to my mind.  Since I liked the look of the skirt of the "vintage dress", I decided to trace the front and back pieces and work with those, making adjustments as needed to coalesce with the top portion of  the drawstring top pictured above.


Pattern #133, dress with "revealing" back and ties at shoulders



 I "borrowed" the skirt portion of this dress



I wanted to make a dress to reflect to celebrate the season of rebirth and flowers in bloom. I selected a cotton fabric printed with coral flowers.  Altogether I cut the front, back, and three drawstring pieces of pattern #109 and the front and skirt pieces of  pattern #133.  I cut a "38" at the shoulders grading to a "40" at the sides.  For the skirt, I cut a "40".

Favorite and Not-So-Favorite Features
The top was generally simple to sew, consisting of only two main pattern pieces to put together.  The same two pattern pieces are also used for style #110, the knit top with the draped front.  The only thing that I am not to fond of is the tendency for the neckline to bunch at the curves while top stitching. After inserting the three drawstrings and extending each end of the front drawstring to be tied to a corresponding back shoulder drawstring. I encountered some "drape" at the front, which is not very noticeable on the model's neckline in the magazine.  I would rather leave it like that as a style feature then have my shoulders and upper arms be restricted in movement. 

 
Procedures/Instructions
I was able to follow the instructions without the state of being mystified that I typically associate with instructions in a Burda magazine.   Amidst the wording, I was able to figure out the scant hemming and topstitching of the short kimono-style sleeves before stitching the side seams and the method to encase the drawstrings at the front neckline and the shoulder seams (pressing open the shoulder seams and topstitch). 



Adjustments/modifications
* For the bodice sections of my dress,  I cut the front and back sections of the top approximately 1 1/2" past the waistline mark.  Above the waistline, I made a 3/4" petite adjustment at the front and back sections.   If I made the top, I would have extended 7"-8" beyond the waistline mark.   

* I made a 3/8" center seam at the back.




* While tracing the pattern, I missed marking the point that marked the lower end of the armscye and the start of the side seam.  From my experience, I usually raise those points for undergarment modesty reasons.  While tissue-fitting the front pattern piece on me,  I marked my point of preference and marked the corresponding point onto the back piece.

* After I sewed the side seams of the front and back bodice and the side seams of the front and back of the skirt, I attached the skirt to the bodice, right sides together.  With minimal fidgeting, I was able to pin the upper edge of the back portion of the skirt to the lower edge of the back bodice.   However, the front bodice was about two inches wider than the upper edge of the front skirt portion.  To resolve this, I slightly gathered the lower edge of  the front bodice, which is also done to the actual front bodice of the dress with the draped back.  While stitching the upper edge of the front of the skirt to the lower edge of the front bodice, I distributed the gathers evenly. 

*Because I was able to easily slip in and out of the dress, I omitted the zipper.


Yeah, another dress for the warm weather!
It may not look exactly like Marc Jacob's "Super Nova Blossom" but at least I can wear this with the satisfaction of wearing something that exudes playful and simple chic and having spent  approximately 1/20 of the cost.

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