Getting Catty with Vogue 8827

I have had this dress in my UFO stash for several months. After cutting the fabric pieces which took more time than expected, I did not feel the "spark" to start sewing the dress immediately. One of my new year's resolution is to finish what I started. To start my sewing in 2013, I resolved to complete Vogue 8827

 

Pattern Description:
"Very loose-fitting, wrap dress has front extending into collar with draped front variations, self-lined yoke back, inside ties and belt. I sewed view "A" with the draped front, but replaced the long sleeves with the short sleeves from another view.

Before attaching the lengthy front facings, I was nearly discouraged to continue when my daughter Heather asked, "Mom, are you making a nightgown?"

The pattern comes in misses' sizes 6-8-10-12-14. I sewed a "10" instead of my usual "12" and am glad that I did.

Fabric Used:
I have had this fabric for awhile, purchased from EOS. It feels like a poly-lycra knit. If I am incorrect, please let me know. 

About the Instructions
The instructions were satisfactory, being wary of the different views. Although this is labeled "easy", I would not recommend this for beginners, nor as a "first dress" project. The diagrams (except for the collar, front, and back yoke facings) helped especially in distinguishing where, for instance, to stitch and cut close to the "pivot points", and where to stitch the center back seam of the collar. For me, it was easy to confuse the shoulder and collar sections on an extremely large front piece with the flounced front. It was easy to get lost in a "sea of fabric" before positioning and pinning the back yoke to the collar and the shoulders. 


The two large front pieces were faced in the same fabric (I would not recommend facing knits due to their drape which would make iron pressing a chore). The back yoke and its facing were somewhat tricky to position, pin, and stitch beneath the collar (whose center back seam is joined by extensions of the the left and front pieces).

I was hoping to use the "sausage" or "burrito" method for the back yoke and its facing to encase the lower back of the dress. With the bulk of the fabric, it would seem to be a challenge. I had to resort to "slip-stitching" the back yoke facing to the seam of the back yoke and the lower back piece.

I'll swallow my pride and show you the inside of my dress ("scary"), with emphasis on the collar, front and back yoke facings. I had difficulty interpreting Vogue Patterns' 2-dimensional diagram to a 3-dimensional space.

DISCLAIMER: I cannot guarantee that my results aligned 100% with what VOGUE patterns had in mind.

Collar and Yoke Facings. I was even ambitious enough to hem and topstitch the front facings.
 (I have not yet "tacked" the facing to the shoulders).

 

Likes/Dislikes:
I adore wrap dresses. However as I read through the instructions, this dress was not a "true" wrap dress as the ones I have made in the past. Hence, I would classify this as a faux or mock wrap dress. I noticed that the fabric ties are not attached to the front edges and no side aperture or a slit at a side seam for the ties to pass through to achieve the "wrap-around" effect. "Ribbon" ties are used to secure the fronts for the wrap look. I totally ignored this method and used an alternative and easier way (described later) without fussing further with the instructions.

The only thing I like is the flounced front, but NOT having to face the two fronts. Facing the front was necessary due to working with a non-reversible type of fabric. With the front and back yoke facings, it seemed as if I were sewing one large dress and one little dress. The facing added to the weight of the dress, making me feel like the back of the dress will "ride up". 

Here is an "interesting" dress with unfaced front edges.  I saw the "hemmed edges" when I zoomed in at the photo at asos.com.  This dress still is overpriced at its current sale price of $90 reduced from the original retail at $274

Alterations/Modifications of Vogue 8827:
I made my typical 1"petite adjustment at the waistline and transferred that to the front facings.

I also narrowed the upper center back by making taking in the center seam at the upper back by 3/8", reducing the width of the upper back by 3/4".

Removed a maximum of 1 1/2" from the sleeve heads.

To secure the dress prior to cinching its waist with the self-fabric tie belt, I sewed a button to each front end and an elastic loop for the inside at the right side seam (to secure the left front as it wrapped under the right front) and another elastic loop at the left side seam on the visible side, to secure the right front as it wraps over the left front. The "button and elastic loop" is not the sleekest method, but it serves it function, and at least I do not have to worry about inner ribbon ties coming "undone".

Wearer's Left front button and elastic loop at inside of right side seam:

 

Wearer's right front button and elastic loop at left side seam:

 

I hand-stitched the hem for a couture finish, which took 45 minutes.


Other Thoughts:
If I ever plan to sew this dress again, I would use a fabric that would not require front to be faced. Although I would still recommend this pattern due to its classic style, it was, for me, time consuming for a pattern rated "easy".

Conclusion
I am glad that this is done! Yeah!