Bow-ccasions with February Burda Style 135

Already nearing the middle of February and I have not even fully gone through the January 2013 issue of Burda Style.  I just removed the February issue from its wrapping and selected pattern #135, a top with neckline and wrist bands with an attached bow. The given sizes were misses' 36-38-40-42-44.  I sewed a 38 at the shoulders and a 40 elsewhere.

Fabric
First version: Polyester jacquard and a striped cotton woven for the neckline both remnants of a cowl dress made from the January 2013 Burda Style (pattern #123) dress with the draped neckline.   I shortened the bow from the original specified length of 85 cm or 33 1/2 inches, which was inordinately long.

 

Second version: "Tuscany wide faille teal, 100% polyester" from fabric.com and for binding the neckline and wrists, a remnant of the black knit dress made also with the January 2013 Burda Style #123 dress pattern. The photo does not accurately capture the lovely teal color of the fabric.

Likes/Dislikes

I like the bow embellishment and the bound neckline and wrist edges.  I am not quite sure about the dart at the sleeve head where it was supposed to align with the shoulder seam.  I experienced a somewhat loose fit at the sides.  Maybe the top was meant to be "tucked in".

Directions

They were satisfactory.  The only thing that seemed questionable was the procedure to bind the neckline: "Pin bias strip to neck edge, with wrong side facing right side, matching seam to one shoulder seam.  Edgestitch edges in place." The "wrong side facing right side" puzzled me. I did not follow the procedure to attach the bias neckline. I attached the right or visible side of the binding to the wrong side, turned it to the outside with 1/4" of the raw edge turned under and top-stitched near the lower edge.

I used the neck facings for the first version, but not for the second version.  The bias neckline could be opted out in favor of the facings.  I found that the facings added more stability prior to the binding with bias strips since I used a slightly translucent and lightweight  polyester jacquard (which had a tendency to unravel at the raw edges) for my first version.  I omitted the facings for the top with the teal polyester faille to avoid bulk while using a knit binding.

I made adjustments from the original specified lengths of the bias strips to finish the neckline and wrists.  It seems that the widths for the neckline had not yet included the seam allowances.  For a better allowance, I used 4 cm width ("2 cm incl allowance" meant 2 cm and the allowance) for the strips.  I did not use the full 25 1/2 inches for both tops.   For instance, I used 20 inches of the knit binding strip (cut on the cross-grain) for the neckline of the second top. I cut a fabric strip after I encircled the neckline with it,  including 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch of negative ease and a 1/4 inch center back seam allowance. I did the same for the sleeve wrists with their seams to be aligned with the sleeve seams. Then I stretched a tad as I stitched the strips to the edges(correct side of fabric strip to wrong side of neckline).  The lengths of the bias strips to finish the neckline rely on the characteristics of the fabric being used.

 

Modifications/Alterations

*Petite adjustment of 1" at waistline

*Took in the upper back 3/8" from the center, tapering to 0" above the waistline.

* Omitted the side vents

*Finished the neckline as described earlier

*I am still indecisive as to whether to keep the "longer" or the "shorter" bow.

Conclusion 

Putting aside the little extra time to figure out the lengths and widths of the bands corresponding to the neckline and wrist circumferences, this pattern is fairly easy to sew.  This has a potential to be nice basic top with or without sleeves and with neckline variations (with or without band).