Double Twist with Vogue 1327

             A RTW Anne Klein with the twisted upper bodice (already sold out)

                                               
                                   My pattern envelope of Vogue 1327.

Pattern Description:
Lined dress has bias, pleated, twisted upper front bodice, semi-fitted bodice, front pleated skirt, invisible back zipper and vent.

I was misled by "easy" label on this pattern. This would be "easy" if the dress consisted of two or three pieces and with much fewer and less elaborate instructions. I hope you benefit from my "learn by doing" experience. Maybe my shortcuts and "goofs" are your gain as well.

I sewed a "12".

Fabric Used:
Marc Jacobs houndstooth jersey that seemed to be lined with a lightweight and had a tendency to fray a little at the edges.
 
I am not certain about my dress looking like the one depicted on the pattern envelope because I used a printed fabric, and being not built like typical Vogue pattern models, I "fill" out the dress quite differently...

Instructions
I seemed to only use 20 of the 49 steps because I used a knit. For an "easy" pattern, this one seems quite extensive, in regards to lining the upper and lower bodice, lining the upper back and skirt portions, inserting a zipper, making the 13 little pleats below the waistline at the skirt front, binding the seams, finishing portions of the lining and hems by slip-stitching or hand-stitching, and making the lower back pleat at their skirt in conjunction with its lining. Steps 45-49 involve inserting a "lingerie strap" or "hanger strap". Although I followed less than half of the lengthy set of instructions, it is still not one of those "instant" or "quick gratification" projects.


Favorite and Not-So Favorite Features
I liked the twist front style with the "keyhole" or peek-a-boo front bodice. I had to really revert several times to the illustration showing the "double twist" of one side of the upper bodice. The lining of the upper bodice (in the same fabric) was done the same way. The upper bodice and its lining are stitched right sides together along the neckline (stopping at the "triangles" near the shoulder seams) and at the lower edge "between two marked circles" which designate what I call the "boundary points" or the start and stop of the upper part of the keyhole opening.

Pinning the lower bodice to the upper bodice that had already been lined in the same fabric was tricky because the "twist" had a tendency to revert to its original position! To "hold" the twist or prevent it from unraveling, I pinned the shoulders together, and took my time to pin the upper and lower bodices together as well as the upper and lower bodices of the lining.

What I thought would be a "piece of cake" were forming those 13 front pleats at the skirt! During cutting, I cut out narrow triangles to designate the width of each pleat. This helped somewhat to avoid the "vanishing chalk marks" that occurs with fabric manipulation. Because they were very close together, it was easy to miss the upcoming or consecutive basted pleat during stitching. I had to stitch, stop, push the fabric forward, so as not to "miss" the next pinned pleat. I wanted the pleats to be secured prior to attaching it to the bodice. 

It was somewhat of a challenge for my fabric of the skirt portion of my dress to pleat according to these line segments and circles. The pleats are very close together and it would have been wiser to "gather" from one point to another.

 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
*My typical 3/4" petite adjustment at the waist and my upper narrow back adjustment. Next time, I plan to omit this petite adjustment. The bodice would have worked out fine without it, especially in a woven.

*I omitted the back and skirt lining.

*I hemmed and top-stitched the back neckline and back armholes.

*I left the lower hem of the lining of the lower bodice detached from the front skirt.

 

* Since I was using a knit, I omitted the invisible zipper.

*I omitted the back pleat, which I would keep I were using a woven.

 

Future Plans/Recommendations
I would not sew this again in my immediate future. Although I recommend this pattern, is helpful to make a muslin or a "run-though" version to work out fitting and construction issues.

Lining the back in the same fabric would have made the dress look more polished. The flattering style and the fit precluded me from giving this pattern a "mediocre"rating. "Easy" is a misnomer for the sewing level of this pattern. Considering the labor intensity, "Average" would be more appropriate.