Saturday, May 31, 2014

Going Jacquard-i with a 1967 Butterick

Current dresses that closely resemble the styles of a 1967 pattern  that I will review are these from Ralph Lauren's spring 2014 collection.


Ralph Lauren



Fashion inspiration:
Who could forget from the 1960's this magical and mod-tastic  "genie"?





Yup, it is Barbara Eden, who is now 82 years young!


From 1967, a sheath dress
Butterick  4266

Pattern description: 
Sleeveless, slightly A-line dress with funnel collar has squared armholes and button and top-stitch trim.  Front and back of dress are top-stitched to side panels.

Size: 

Misses', bust 34

Fabric:
Ace Jacquard Knit Tile Blue/White


https://www.fabric.com/buy/0340751/ace-jacquard-knit-tile-black-white

Jacquard-i

Back


Likes/Dislikes 
I purchased this pattern on-line due to the  slightly-A-line style and funnel collar.  The design features that give this dress distinctiveness are the side panels bridging the front and back and with top hemmed edges rest below the armpits.   The dress seemed to be easy to sew, although I anticipated it would take more time than other sheath style dresses due to the front and back to be basted to the side pieces and topstitched along those edges.

I "shuddered" at the thought of having to face the front and back.  Because I was not able to think of a way to forgo the facings, I went ahead and cut them from the fabric. 

The faced edges (turned to the inside) of the front and back to the side panel will be basted and topstitched onto the edges of the side panels.

Front and back finished with front and back facing
Front Facing and Back Facing Along the Edges of the Front and Back



Directions:   

Sufficient or bare-bone  directions  with detailed diagrams. The notches at the front and back facings (joined at the shoulder seams) align nicely with the corresponding notches at the front and back.

The dress took me nearly 16 hours to construct. The steps such as the  attaching the facings, overlaying and basting the front to the sides and
the back to the sides, and topstitching the edges are more involved
than suggested by the diagrams. 



Attaching  the Front and Back to the Side Panels

I used the continuity of the fabric print design to assist me in aligning and basting the front and back to the corresponding seam allowances on the side panels.   As for the directions to attaching the zipper,  I was told to refer to those that came with the zipper.  However my zipper did not with any directions, due to being  purchased by the bulk from e*ay.   I find that the Colette tutorial to inserting an invisible zipper a very useful reference.

 I also handstitched the hems and the edges of the collar from the inside.

Butterick4266_1967_Dress_Const _5




Inside-Out


Jacquard-i

 Modifications:

My typical 1" petite adjustment at the waistline

Narrowed the upper back 3/8" at the center seam 


Shortened the pattern 4" from the lower edge and hemmed an additional 2" using handstitching, making it a knee-length dress, appears longer in the photos. Mini-dresses are cool, but as I near 50 in about 2 years, I don't feel like taking my dresses to a "higher level". 

Omitted the side buttons.  They would not seem to work with the look of my dress.


Conclusion: 

If you have the patience for projects that require a lengthy time commitment, the  experience with sewing a zippered dress,  and a passionfor this style of a dress, then I recommend this pattern.  I would not recommend this as a "first dress" pattern due to the plethora of time to be invested in fabric placement, basting and topstitching. The time factor has precluded me from trying this pattern again, but I like the sense of accomplishment from adhering to a project that provided  a worthwhile challenge until its completion.  Contests such as my all-time favorite, the vintage sewing pattern contest,  give me that nice and
needed nudge to sew a theme-inspired garment.

8 comments:

  1. Oh this is fun! I love a shift style for summer.

    ReplyDelete
  2. A lovely dress - nice fabric.

    ReplyDelete
  3. I love it! The fabric looks like an exact replica of the designer dress. I love retro knit dresses.

    ReplyDelete
  4. You can't beat a great shift dress - the pattern is really interesting and your fabric very smart - looks great!

    ReplyDelete

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