Two of a Twisted Kind from Burda WOF

From Macy's, a pair of keyhole necklined tops with a "twist"

 

Pattern Description
From Burda Style, page 19 of the February 2014 issue:
MANAGER CHIC, Jersey Shirt 130 B/C
This figure hugging shirt has something special: a cleverly intertwined neckline.

My description:  a knit top with a teardrop-shaped keyhole neckline, through which a gathered strap of fabric passes through and encloses this piece with a gathered center front seam. 

View A is made from double layer of fabric for the front and back (self-lined) and views B and C, a single layer for the front and back.


Fabric:
Most recent version:  a 4-way stretch rayon/lycra knit (20% in the width, 10% in the length), opaque yet lightweight with wonderful drape and a "dry" (not slippery) hand. The print is a wonderful "birds aflight" design in soft white on a black background  from EOS.

 


Original version:
Betsey Johnson's tangerine/indigo emblem unit, a soft, semi-opaque polyester nylon knit from EOS.

Favorite Features of  the Pattern:
There were only 3 pattern pieces to trace and 1 rectangular piece cut with given dimensions.  I used a different color highlighter for each pattern piece for easier tracing.  I used large white gift tissue paper, purchased from a party supplies store, as an alternative for tracing paper.

I like the dramatic keyhole neckline with a gathered strap or band, cut from a  rectangular piece of fabric (42 cm length, 24 cm width per the directions) whose both gathered ends (10 cm width) are first attached to the back of the neckline prior to being enclosed with the center front seam that forms the keyhole at the front of the neckline.

Not-So Favorite or Questionable Features of the Pattern:
The typical Burda Style directions and the construction methods, especially for the front, gathered strap for the neckline.  The gathered ends (from 24 cm to 10 cm) are stitched to the back of the neckline at two placement markings, before stitching the shoulder seams and turning in and top-stitching the upper edge of the entire neckline.  I wonder if it would have been better to just fold the rectangular piece, right sides together, sew a side seam, and turn the entire piece inside out, forming a strap with only the visible side of fabric showing. But the strap would most likely lose the "scrunched" look of the neck band which was the intended look.

Update with recent version: I made a strap (side seam and turned inside out) and did not worry about the "wrong" side of the fabric showing at my neckline.  This worked fine for this version.

Without adding length allowance , the sleeves are long, and probably meant to be "pushed back" as shown on the model.  Another thing I noted were that sleeves are really fitted despite my arms and legs disproportionally slender with respect to the rest of me. 




 






























Directions:
Typical, cryptic Burda Style directions.  I had to reread them twice to translate them from "Burda Speak".

There were 2 placement markings (vertical slashes)  on the back of the neckline for the neckband.  I was somewhat confused precisely where to place the gathered ends.  It would have been clearer  if there were two pairs of placement markings in which each pair shows the width of the gathered end of the band.  I should have basted (instead of immediately stitch) the ends while checking whether or not the "loop" will pass over my head and fit comfortably encircle my neck.  Burda does not mention doing this, probably with the assumption that we automatically check for fit. I had to place the ends of the neckband further apart  to accommodate the circumference of my head, which surprised me because I am not megacephalic.  Burda recommends cutting the strap with dimensions 39.5-50-50.5-41-41.5-42 cm corresponding to sizes 34-44.  I see this as only a guideline and adjust accordingly depend on the stretchiness of the knit and the wearer's measurements.  


Modifications/Adjustments to the Pattern:
It seems that Burda Style patterns are designed for a well-proportioned woman who is at least 5'6".  One petite adjustment is not enough in the bodice.   From experience in addition to my typical 1" adjustment at the waistline mark, I shortened the pattern 1", 7 cm below the armscye. This reduces the  fabric bunching, wrinkling, and folding at the back.
*Instead of finishing the keyhole by folding under and top-stitching, I stitched from the inside of the garment while stretching slightly, a strip of fabric cut on the bias (1¼" width) A ¼" from the raw edge of the keyhole.  Then I turned the strip  to the outside, tucking under its raw edge strip, pressed it and top-stitched near its edge.

Recent version: shortened the sleeves.


At a local bookstore for a photo and a copy of his new book:  Heather, Shane Dawson (You Tube star and author of "I Hate My Selfie"), and me.  Heather and other tween and teen-aged girls were just so thrilled to see and meet this cute young man.  In my day, it was pop/rock star RICK SPRINGFIELD, and for these young ladies, it is now "You-Tube sensations" such as Shane.  I still do not get what it is about screaming girls and You-Tubers. It is just the sign of the times.


Conclusion:
Hopefully after spending the worthwhile time altering the pattern and fiddling with the neckline, things will go smoothly for my next version.

After noting the quirks I experienced,  I still agree with the rating that this is a one dot or easy pattern .  The dramatic neckline makes this top a standout in this issue.