The Fabiani-Lous 60's



Fabiani patterns seem to be highly coveted by collectors and sewists who adore retro. Fabiani was a highly regarded Italian designer and was famously known for his 1960's tent coats. He was also married to another famous designer, Simonetta. I liked his simple but innovative styles that strongly influenced fashion in the 50'-60's and even today.



60's Fabiani silk ottoman coat

List of links to Fabiani sewing patterns

Fabiani biography

The pattern cost me about $20 from an e**y auction. I did not see this particular pattern listed in the wiki-catalogue.




Pattern Description
From the envelope flap:
"Alberto Fabiani (Fahbee ahny) - Italy's master tailor creates wonderfully flattering suits, distinguished ocats and exquisite evening gowns...can claim many fashion-firsts."

From the back of the envelope:
"Misses' One-Piece Dress: Semi-fitted slightly-A-line dress (without side seams) has jewel neckline and loose front inset with skirt front gathered to stay. Short sleeves or sleeveless. Button, buttonhole and top-stitch trim."

Size
Misses' size 14, bust 34. My eyes deceived me! All along I thought I was sewing a dress with bust 36. No wonder I was having some problems!



Fabric Used
Yellow Diamond Suiting in 100% cotton, from Fashion Fabrics Club.


Favorite Features
*The two buttons at the waist

*The topstitched (5/8" from seam) design of the mock bolero coupled with the inset.

*Back princess seams. The front of the dress below the inset/mock bolero is one large piece that bypasses side seams and immediately joins the back in a long princess seam.

*Retro a-line style


Other features
*5/8" seam allowance except for the 7/8" shoulder seam
*Slightly forward shoulder seams


Challenges

* Lots of pressing was essential to effectively topstitch the front. Due to a combination of the nature of the fabric and my uncoordination, my original attempt at topstitching produced a lot of bunching of the fabric. The final result was the best I could do after taking out my original topstitches, more pressing, and topstitching again.

* Stitching the entire front (inset, bolero) to the front stay that was sewn above the gathered front. The front stay acted like a lining for the top bodice and was sewn directly to the skirt portion of the dress. I could not decipher from the illustration on how to stitch the front bodice to the front stay. Originally, I sewed the front bodice to the front say right sides together and then when I turned the front bodice to the outside, I noticed that the inside of the skirt was staring at me! OOOOOOPS! Then I realized that I was supposed to sew the wrong side of the top bodice to the right side of the stay and the skirt. Uh oh, I forgot to take into the account that the back pieces of the dress will be sewn over the front, right sides together. I said "Duh" over and over to myself. I certainly got a lot of mileage from my seam ripper!

* There was a tendency for the lowest corners of the inset to bunch (below the bust), despite my cautious clipping and stitching at the corners.


Directions
*Nicely written steps with very helpful illustrations. I have found this true with the Vogue couturier patterns I worked with.


Modifications
* Omitted the underlining to reduce bulk.

* For the lower facing of the inset (where the buttonholes are placed), used the same fabric instead of "underlining" to add more stability.

* Referred to Annette1's very helpful and detailed tutorial for bound buttonholes. Honestly, this is the first time that I have COMPLETED a decent bounded buttonhole! I agree with Annette to practice first, especially in my case to get the lips to stay aligned horizontally! Special thanks to Annette for helping me to overcome my fears of sewing a bound buttonhole!

*Sewed on the buttons towards the final fitting instead of after attaching the inset and making the buttonholes.

*Took out 1/4" from each seam

*Shortened the zipper to mid-back

*Decreased the seam of the armhole facing to make it align better with the armscye.

*Cut 6" from the length of the dress to make it reach knee length.


Conclusion
I almost gave up on this dress! Once I was able to attach the front bodice to the front stay and skirt, I decided to continue, even if did not look right.

I really like the styles of some of the 60's Vogue Couturier patterns and have discovered that even the simple looking styles are more challenging (also time extensive) to sew than expected. They might not be practical additions to my wardrobe, but would be fun to wear for a festive occasion or a special night out (when I have the time, of course). Although I do not plan to use this pattern again, I am at least very happy to have the opportunity to sew a piece designed by one of my favorite designers, even if the dress did not turn out the way I had hoped for. If you like retro and designer originals, I would recommend the Vogue couturier line.

The Road to Sew Paolo

Kwik Sew 3062 has been aging on my wish list. What prompted me to purchase this recently was the fact that it will be discontinued at PR (discontinued according to the Kwik Sew website).




Pattern Description
"Misses' pullover tops have sccop neckline finished wiht bias cut binding, gathers under bust and lower front is cut on bias. View A has slit on bodice at center front seam, and gathered sleeves have shirring with elastic. View B has short gathered sleees with elastic in casing in bottom edges. Pull-on bias cut skirt has elastic in casing at waist, and two ruffles at bottom edge." I sewed View B.

Size
Misses' XS -XL. I referred to my bust size and sewed a "M". I find that Kwik Sews have been generous in their sizing. I even find the "M" a tad roomy overall!


Fabric
What seems like a medium weight, mixed woven, "The Road to Sao Paolo", from Gorgeous Fabrics. It seems to be already sold out.




Favorite Features
*Very easy to construct

*Few pattern pieces involved: upper bodice, bias front skirt, bias neckline, sleeve, and back.

*I was hesitant to purchase this due to the empire chest which has in the past made me look as if I am expecting. Hopefully the bias front skirt below the bust coupled with the lower empire styling minimizes that.

*Puffed sleeves

*Scoop neck

*Bias finish at the neckline

*5/8" seam allowances included


Other Features
*Neckline scoop came lower than represented by the illustration on the envelope.
*Needs to be adjusted for sway back.
*The sleeves puffed out more (gathered quite a bit at the sleeve caps) than those featured on the envelope.
*Length of top appears shorter than expected


Directions
Clear and easy to read with very helpful illustration as what I typically expect from a Kwik Sew.

The finishing of the neckline is interesting in that the method described drifted from methods with which I am familiar. Instead of pinning the bias strip (sewn at the ends, forming a loop), right sides of fabric together along the neckline, I pinned it from the inside of the top or right side of the bias loop to the wrong side of the fabric along the neckline, ensuring that the notches align with the shoulder seams. I sewed the recommended 1/4" from the raw edges (could have sewn a little more to reduce the width of the binding) and turned the strip to the outside and press. Then I topstitched the binding, close to the encased edge.

Modifications
*To lower the empire seam, I extended the upper bodice by adding 1/4" along the lower edge and the bias skirt by adding 1/4" along its upper edge.

Conclusion
I highly recommend this pattern if you want to create something that does not require a lot of time and that is easy to sew with minimal adjustments. The Kwik Sew website states that this pattern is already discontinued and will soon be on PR! I wish I had purchased this pattern sooner! I plan to make a few more tops with sleeve variations.

Swinging Styles
I purchased these from the Decades of Style pattern company:

I like the butterfly sleeves of this 30's styled top:


Interesting collar style on this 40's styled top:

Intellectual Prowess vs. Physical Prowess

I would not say I "hate" sports. I enjoy skiing, tennis and hiking when I have the opportunity. I rather participate in than watch or talk about sports. Call me sports "illiterate" in a group that talks about sports as if it was such an "elite" subject. Boo hoo if so and so team loses! I could care less!

As a teacher, athletes are given too much undeserved recognition for doing meaningless activities. The real heroes and heroines are those persons that have the talent to move this country forward and not move around aimlessly on the field or stadium. I am so disturbed by school assemblies that "celebrate" the various teams of athletes by parading them across the gymnasium. It makes students who have outstanding scholastic performance so insignificant.

I find it very irritating to be listening to people around me discussing sports (i.e. outcomes of a game, the plays they saw during a game, and so on)as if they were some "elite" group making those who are "not sports minded" so uncomfortable and idiotic in their world. I perceive their discussions as worthless babble that have no relation to advancing this world intellectually and humanely. I keep forgetting....This is only entertainment, nothing serious.

Actual post:
"I would rather have funding for sports cut than for more enriching school activities such as the performing arts, music, and the decathlon team. It seems like athletes (I am finding a diminishing number of them are stellar students) are given more glory than my students who show demonstrate outstanding academic achievement. So what if they cannot catch/throw a ball or run aimlessly across a field? I am finding so much needless adulation for getting the "banner" than those who received wonderful scholarships to the universities of their choice. Thanks for understanding my view point after teaching for awhile."



A coach's response:
While I share your opinion that performing arts and academic competitions are valuable, I would strongly argue two points.

First, the idea that those activities are somehow more enriching than athletics is ludicrous. All activities enrich student lives, none more important than the other. I see plenty of athletes get into fine universities, and not on athletic scholarships. They are given "more glory" (and with that, a whole lot more criticism) because of the values of the society. And with all due respect, the idea of competition will probably win over simple performance most of the time (ie: what makes money for the schools).

My second argument is that athletics reaches far more kids than performing arts and academic competition. Take a look at school populations and you will find that athletics gives much more "bang for the buck" in enriching kids lives. I think you might be surprised at how many students are involved in athletics.

You seem to be frustrated with the "dumb jock" stereotype. I've found that most athletes are actually good students, and statistics show that athletics make better students. As for giving academic achievement its due, I can't argue with you, but society doesn't find it that important.

I give him credit for presenting his argument thoughtfully and respectfully. I understand his viewpoint very clearly. Yes, I agree that society, in generally does not value academics. I am seeing the scary consequences of it already......

This is the Sea Life
A week after visiting Legoland, Heather, Jorgen, and I had a wonderful time at Sea Life Aquarium (just next to Legoland) in Carlsbad!




Heather enjoying an "underwater" or "through the water" view!


Initially, she hesitated about going under a partition, so I accompanied her to the little "dome" where she went under. I think she was getting somewhat claustrophobic. Her dad took a few photos and she quickly dashed from the dome. Then he prodded her to return to the dome for a few more pictures. She returned without me guiding her. I then took a cell phone pic (not posted yet).




The Lost City of Atlantis!










Finding more underwater tresures!






Heather was fascinated by the stunning seahorses! They looked better up close and personal!



Heather the designer and builder!

Oh Heather, What Happened?
I named my daughter Heather after Heather Locklear for her earlier exuberance and wholesome California girl looks, and because I simply liked the name. But what happened to the fresh-faced, bright-eyed California girl? She recently got in trouble for something stupid, getting caught driving under the influence. What a bad, bad, bad role model! She also checked in last June for depression. Come on, Heather! What do you have to be depressed about?


This is how I remember Miss Locklear in her heyday:

















Now, here's what happens when Hollywood, fame, and bad decision-making take over:






What happened to her eyes?


Are these the same person?



Uh oh, even Jack P. Wagner hopped on the bandwagon for the Plastic Pony Express! Oh no, it's Barbie and Ken!


I see that Priscilla Presley has somebody to keep her company!

Blast from the Past
Just when I was trying to curb my pattern addiction, some unknown force made me bid or do a "buy it now." Oh well!


60's Vogue couturier, Fabiani, one of my favorite designers. I bought this for just under $20. Was it worth it? Maybe, because he seems to beone of the sought after Vogue couturier designers!



Recent ebay wins ($1.12 each, wow!)
Christie Brinkley vests


50's or early 60's? Butterick dresses. Check out those cool sleeves!


I have always liked DuBarry patterns. I cannot wait to try one for the first time. I think I might have another DuBarry somewhere.


Something for Heather!



I wish I won this, but of course somebody won it at a much higher bid!

Tie-Bow "Fit"ness
I purchased this a few days ago from JA's for a little over $5!





This pattern did not stay too long on my PR wishlist! I liked the style, fit and the fact that it is rated easy.

Pattern Description
"This fitted shirt is a versatile companion – with short puffed sleeves or long, narrow sleeves. The small tied collar or gathered standing collar are feminine eye-catchers.
Recommended fabric: Only jersey with 2-way stretch". The shirt has a keyhole opening below the tie.



Sizing
Misses' 36 38 40 42 44 46 48. I sewed a 40 which corresponds to a US 14. I definitely agree that it is fitted! I would size up for a knit with less stretch.

Fabric
Maggie London hearts fabric, a Poly/lycra knit from Emma One Sock



Favorite Features
*Neck tie with draped collar
*Keyhole opening, not as low as I expected from Burda WOF.
*Sleeve variations
*Retro style and fit
*Easy to cut (right and left collar, front piece with center seam, back piece with center seam, sleeve, front facing for keyhole opening)
*Easy to sew
*Good illustrations that accompany the satisfactory directions
There was nothing much to dislike, except for a goof caused by skimming over the directions, attaching the front facing.

Other Features
*Cutting layouts and sizing information are available on the pattern tissue paper
*Small narkings (tiny line segments) for aligning pieces, locations where stitching stops/starts.



Directions
They are actually better than typical Burda WOF due to the inclusion of helpful illustrations. The overall layout which included instructions in English, French, and Spanish by column, seemed to restrict my peripheral vision, thus making it not very easy on my eyes. Having quasi fluency in French and Spanish, I might find it interesing to of compare the translations of sewing terminology and expression from one language to another, or literally side by side.

The directions are straightforward to follow, paying attention to follow the view by letter. I am trying to figure out why Burda included set-in-sleeves for a knit garment instead of sewing them flat!

The slightly draped collar with the little tie is easy to construct.
*Sew the center seam of the right and left collar
*Pin and stitch the entire collar piece, right sides together, aligning common markings to the neckline
*Stitch the edges of the tie portion, right sides toegether, until the front edge of the keyhole facing
*Turn the ties inside out
*Fold the collar lengthwise in half, creating an inner facing to be handstitched (raw edge tucked under) to the neckline seam.


Don't Lose Face-ing
The only thing that I spent more time and energy than expected was surprisingly the first step of construction: attaching the facings (interfaced)to the front that form the keyhole. Onto each front side,I stitched each facing until the marked line. Then I skimmed the directions and jumped to the portion where the center front seam was sewn, starting from the marked little line segment. Then I realized that I was not able to turn the facing to the inside, because I sewed the bottom front edge of the facing to the center seam! Out came the seam ripper! I referred back to the directions and found the diagram that I "skipped": the part of the facing below the line was to be pinned up so that it would not be caught in the construction of the center front seam. How remiss of me!

"Burd"-ie on the greens


Modifications
*Shortened the sleeves to desired length and omitting the gathered and bound edges

*Stabilized the shoulder seams with ribbon trim folded lengthwise in half.

*Handstitched the edges with the raw edges tucked under for half of the collar. Then for the rest of the collar, I found it easier just to machine stitch the inside of the collar close to the neck seam stitches.

*Sewed the side seams after sewing the sleeves flat instead of setting them as directed. I still ease-stitched the sleeve caps


Conclusion
I definitely recommend this easy-to-make and versatile top. I see the possiblities of converting it into a dress!

This top would be ideal to make on a serger or a coverstitch machine!