For the Birthday Girl

Today is Heather's 7th Birthday! On her little IKEA easel/whiteboard, she has been tallying the days remaining before her special day. I chuckled when I saw "Tomorrow is my birthday" and "Today is my birthday". It seemed like yesterday, when we celebrated her 6th birthday.





She opened her presents this morning. I did not give her the big box of gifts from my sister who lives in Henderson, Nevada (also Heather's godmother) until this morning. Heather and I have discussed it's not just the presents that make this a special day for her. This is also a special day for her father and me. I asked her why.




"Because it is the day when I popped out of your tummy and lived on Earth." She knows that she is a GIFT from God. Everyone are gifts for each other. Nobody can buy love, happiness, joy, and any of our life experiences...

She read and adored the card we gave her describing the positive characteristics she possesses and brings to our lives.


She also enjoys receiving goodies from my sewing machine.


This is her new favorite top from a McCall's pattern.





I was excited to sew the trendy semi-detached top. Because it ended up being a tad tight and uncomfortable, I sewed the long sleeved version in the same fabric, but in the next larger size, a girls' size 8.



Pattern Description:
Girls' coordinates: knit tops and skirts. Views A and C are the knit tops and views B and E are the skirts with a flounce at the lower edges. Views A and D are "semi-fitted" and views B, C, and E are "close-fitting". I figure top A is looser than top C.

I originally intended to sew view C, the top with the bare upper sleeve, or what I call the "semi-detached sleeve" look. After the "close fitting" experience which I will describe later, I ended up with both styles of the top in the same fabric.

Pattern Sizing:
I sewed view C in a girl's size 7 (122) and view A in a girl's size 8 (128).

Fabric Used:
Hello Kitty cotton t-shirt type of knit from fabric.com. I discovered that this fabric with the neon pink Hello Kitty faces is already sold out. The one with the lilac Hello Kitty faces was available the last time I checked.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, they were because there were illustrations that accompanied the steps. The dots on the lower part of each armscye are the placement positions for the semi-detached sleeve of view C.





What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Favorite Features
* Simple to sew
* View A is a versatile basic knit top pattern. I could easily modify the sleeve length and style.


Not-so-favorite Features
I originally sewed View C, the one with the bare upper sleeves. The neckline facing strip (cut on the straight grain of the fabric) really stabilized the neckline to the point that it did not stretch much when my daughter slipped the top over head. I joked about her still having a big skull (it was noticeably large when she was an infant with a circumference that ranked in the 110% percentile at the time). She also experienced some tightness in the armscye, which is contrary to her usual experience in RTW size 7 tops being slightly baggy due to her slender frame. It seemed as if this top would fit her better in a poly knit fabric. Although this style is trendy, Heather did not think it was appropriate for school. So I traced the pieces for the other top, and cut one size larger , an "8". Heather was barely able to slip the second version of the top over her head. It would have been wiser to abandon the neckline self-binding in favor of a coverstitched or topstitched neckline for more wearing ease.





Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
* I did not the cut the pattern tissue paper. It was more convenient to me trace the pieces with a particular size onto gift wrap tissue paper and make any necessary adjustments. I traced a "7" of the pattern pieces from View C and an "8" of the pattern pieces from View A.

*Shortened each sleeve of the second version(view a) 1 1/2".


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I plan to sew more of the view A top and possibly the flounced skirt using knits from my stash. The combined time for both styles of tops took one full evening for me (less than four hours). This is a wonderful first-time knit project.

Conclusion:
I really like the Burda patterns for kids. Unlike my experiences with the big 4 patterns, I have encountered very few or no adjustments.

Happy Birthday to you, Heather, and also to Albert Einstein who was also born 131 years ago on the day of pi (3.14)!

Cult of Fleurs-onality

From 1973.


The use of this classic pattern stemmed from my experience with a UFO project, Butterick knit dress 5243. After cutting the pieces (which seemed to take more time than expected), I eagerly started stitching. I could not figure out why my machine behaved strangely with this poly knit because it felt similar to a ITY knit, which it had no problem sewing. I would get skipped stitches despite numerous needle, tension, and stitch changes. Once I switched to another project, I did not encounter problems. So the dress pieces along with the pattern stayed in a plastic bag for more than 6 months.

Then along came the opportunity to revisit this dress due to the UFO (unfinished objects) contest. Things were running smoothly when I was able to sew the attach the sleeves to the upper bodice and gather the lower edge of the bodice until I attached the facing to the neckline. My stitching went haywire. Then I looked at it and told myself this will not work. It was confirmed when I slipped it over my head and my instinct was correct- this dress was not meant for me. I probably made a goof somewhere or the dress's style does not work for me. This project was tainted from the beginning.

So, I shifted gears and decided to try this Simplicity pattern from 1973. I found remaining fabric from previous projects and shortened the dress pattern to create two tops. Then for my third version, I decided to cut the top from the skirt (against the grain, due to size constraints)originally intended for THAT Butterick knit dress. Now, I feel relieved to eliminate this fabric from my UFO list.

Pattern Description:
From 1973: "The flared dress has low round neckline, back zipper, and top-stitching trim. Short dress V. 1 has long set-in sleeves. Long dress V. 2 has short set-in sleeves."


Pattern Sizing:
Misses' size 12, bust 34

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes, except I shortened the dress pattern into one for a top.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, from all my experiences with a pattern from the "Jiffy" series. As usual, clear illustrations are included.
First version




Third version

Fabric Used:
Poly knit from GorgeousFabrics. All came from fabric that I used in previous projects.


Favorite Features
* Scoop neckline
* Curved contour at side seams that work nicely with my figure
* Gathered style at sleeve caps that balance what's below the bustline


There is nothing to dislike about the pattern except for the facings which I excluded. However, I would use the facings if I create the dress version in a double knit because it would look much better with a non-topstitched neckline.



Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

To preserve the original pattern, I traced the front, back, and sleeve pieces onto gift wrap tissue paper. It was easy to make any necessary adjustments.

*Omitted the front and back facings

*For my second and third versions, I took in the upper center back seam by 3/4" to eliminate some gaping that I experienced in my first version.

* Removed the added 1/4" at the armscye, or in other words, I did not have to change the armscye of the original pattern.

* Shortened the upper back by making a horizontal fold with a width of 3/4".

*Made my usual 3/4" petite adjustment between the bust and hips.

*Traced a short sleeve pattern piece from the long sleeve pattern piece.

*Staystitched 1/4" from the neckine, folded the edge under at the staystitching and topstitched



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

After making three of these, still a big YES! It is one of those easy and gratifying things to sew. I definitely recommend this and other Jiffy patterns to sewists at all levels. Jiffy patterns are "easy chic". I confess that what I have been wearing out often are my poly knit tops created from Simplicity or McCall "carefree" (anyone remember?) patterns from the 1970's. The simple style of a deep (but not too deep) scoop neck with some shaping at the sides work best with my figure and just a change of fabric can significantly alter the personality of the garment.


Conclusion:

I have been usually successful with patterns from the 1970's. With little or no alterations, I have been very fortunate to have something that fits BETTER than current RTW. Suppose I have 10 garments to try on in department store dressing room. I would be lucky to have ONE that fits decently. I have better luck fitting into something I sewed straight from the pattern envelope...

Giraffic Park the Sequel

The Safari theme is making quite an impact in clothing and accessories this spring.


Karen Millen belted shirtedress for $255.
















A jersey dress with batwing sleeves by Mango
















Another Karen Millen dress, but for $160.
















A Paul Smith Black label shirt in a leopard print for $175 from julesb.co.uk.

















A giraffe print purse by Metro Style (formerly Lerner's) for $24.99


















A Betty Barclay jacket for $150.
















Neiman Marcus' Giraffe-Print jacket for $895.








Oversized jersey knit with a giraffe at asos.com for $37
















A shirt by Peoples' Market for $48 at the asosoutlet or asos.com















From LTX Sportwear, a jacket for $39.99.
















For a precious fashionista, a Haute Baby jacket with booties for $56.












Kenneth Jay Lane earrings for $65 at zappos.com
















An Anthony David purse in Swavorvksi crystals fro $450
















4-inch heels in neon patent by BCBGirls
















Moschino Cheap and Chic fro $605 from Bluebee.com. This is the only designer cropped jacket in giraffe print that I found. Cropped jackets and cropped sweaters were very "in" two-three years ago.

















Amy Winehouse "Re-habit"-ilitated by Burda? Sewing is a healthier addiction.


Burda's Pattern Description
"Choose me! What a good choice! This cropped, waist-length jacket is fastened with hooks and eyes and contrasts straight with bias-cut fabric to create a saucy look."

It seemed that this jacket was meant to be left open unless the wearer has time to actually hook all those eyes...


Pattern Sizing:
Burda petite sizes 17-21. I sewed a "21" (which correlates to bust size of 37" ) at the bust and waist and a "19" at the shoulders. Since this is my first experience with a "petite" Burda pattern, I decided to make a "test" version.

Some pieces such as the front bodice, the side backs, and the front and back pieces of the sleeve also belong to styles 108 (boucle jacket), 109 (denim jacket). Since style 110 is cut on the bias , I included all the grain lines. I decided to trace and cut the full-length pieces just in case I would sew those styles in the future. I marked the cut lines for style 110 on my pattern pieces.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Somewhat because I made a "simpler" version of this jacket.

Favorite Features
*Stand-up collar
*Waistband paired up with the cropped jacket style
*Vertical bust darts
*Not very difficult to sew

Not-so Favorite Features
*Vague directions, especially for attaching the waistband and the lower pieces of the sleeves

*As usual, the extra ease in the sleeve caps

*I like the looks of the hooks and eyes along the front, but let's face it, I think I would spend more time attaching these than sewing the entire jacket.

*I wish I had interfaced the collar and waistband to minimize "floppiness".

*Roomy upper back. Since this a "petite" Burda pattern, I assumed that did not need to perform my usual adjustment of shortening the upper back. Now I know what to expect next time.

* It was tricky to topstitch a tricky fabric that was cut on the bias. The front of the bodice came out somewhat wonky.



Fabric Used:
For my muslin, I used a medium weight cotton from Fabric.com, "Premier Prints Giraffe Brown/French Blue", which is more suitable for home decor and tote bags.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Again, they can be unclear for its lack of words and still unclear with its verbosity. If I were to sew the welt pockets, I would have consulted page 89 of my Kenneth King's Cool Couture book as I did for Heather's Burda jacket from last year. Otherwise I would have been lost in Burda's directions due to the lack of illustrations.

I did not have difficulty in familiar steps such as stitching the center back seam, front vertical bust darts, side seams, shoulder seams, and stand-up collar. If I were sewing a stand-up collar for the first time based on these Burda directions, I would have been confused with the "lay this" and "lay that" wording. Since I created a similar stand-up collar from a previous jacket, I am already very familiar with this process. After stitching the lower and side edges of the collar pieces, right sides together, and turning the formed collar inside out, I sewed the visible or outer portion of the collar directly to the jacket's neckline and the not visible portion to the front self-facing and back facing.

I recalled that last year, I sewed a 9/2008 jacket (with fabric that I admit with embarrassment, won by another PR member's creation for use in the hideous fabric contest) where I figured out what do with the collar band (had no collar) with respect to the neckline and facing.

Back facing and tab collar of unlined version of jacket from Burda jacket #102 from 9/2008 issue.

Because I was not clear on Burda's lack of specifics in attaching the bottom sleeve piece and the waistband, I used "intuitive" sewing or in another words, I did things my way.

No hooks, lining or sinkers...
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
*I skipped the hooks and eyes for the front edge. If I have the time and patience, I will include these on a future version.

*I omitted the shoulder pads and welt pockets.

*I topstitched the collar and front edges of the jacket.

*Instead of just "attaching" the wide under sleeve piece (has a slight flare) to the sleeves, I folded each sleeve piece and half, right sides together, sewed the side seams and turned it inside out. Then I sewed each "cuff" to the lower edges of the sleeves from their wrong sides so that I could turn the cuffs to the outside. Where the ends slightly overlapped is what I called the "V" of my cuff. I had to make sure that the "V" portion of the sleeves face "outward". I made the mistake of being too eager to do something outside of the written directions, that I had to remove and re-attach the cuffs, because the "V" faced my sides. Next time, I plan to redraft the sleeve cuff to make it more "rectangular".

*I omitted the lining for my muslin.

* Here's my quick method for the waistband. After sewing the side and lower edges of the waistband, right sides together, I basted the top edge and sewed it to the lower edge of the jacket, making sure that the front pressed edge aligns with the end of the waistband. I finished the edges with a wide zig zag stitch. The topstitching secures the seam from being "visible". It may not be the "sleekest" method, but it works for this wearable and unlined first version.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes in a stretch corduroy. The changes I would include are to slightly lengthen the bodice, shorten the upper back, add the welt pockets, and line the bodice and upper sleeves.

I definitely recommend this pattern because of its simplicity and versatility. Just by adding deccorative trim to the front would take this jacket to another dimension. To be on the safe side, I recommend making a muslin or a "test" version.

Conclusion

I cannot wait to try this pattern again!

Enjoying a sunny Sunday afternoon.

Femme Petale

There is a lot of cool stuff in the February 2010 issue of Burda magazine!

I like the classic glamour of this skirt from the "Fifties Flair" section.

Also from the same section, a stylish cropped jacket. I'm not sure about having the patience to sew all those hooks and eyes!



From the "Cruise Collection, a shirt that looks lovely almost anywhere.


A sleek and simple skirt that can be sewn short or long.





Also from the "Cruise Collection", this raglan-style top, caught my attention, not only because it seemed easy to sew, but for a change of scenery, to sew a top with non-set-in sleeves.


Are you noticing that styles from previous issues are reincarnated with slight variations? I wonder if it is necessary to trace for instance, a shirt pattern that looks so similar to one that I traced months earlier. It makes me wonder....Hmmmmm....

Pattern Description:
Knit top with raglan sleeves

Pattern Sizing:
36-44. I sewed a 38 at the shoulders and a "40". This pattern has less ease than what I am accustomed to.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes





Fabric Used:
Stretch matte knit jersey from fabric.com. I did not expect the "large" flowers as mentioned in the fabric description to mean LARGE enough to occupy one side of a top!

What a coincidence, this is what I discovered from the new patterns section of the Butterick website!

A Maggy London dress using "biggie" flowers and stems, pattern #5456.

Same pattern, but in a solid.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
They seem adequate for a 3 pieced pattern. I ignored the directions for adding the vilene bias tape and topstitched facing strip at the neckline. The "fold-and-stitch" method mentioned by Lisa Laree in her review definitely would simplify the construction process, hence changing the Burda's 2 dot rating of sewing difficulty to a one dot rating.

I prefer to sew the sleeves to the front and back armscye edges before sewing the sleeve and side seams. The directions have the two steps in the reverse order.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
* I like that the top comes together easily once you sew the sleeves to the front and back and the side seams.

*I thought it was just me, but I started tracing lines from another pattern! I experienced some confusion from the convolution of lines and curves.

*The simple style allowed to showcase the ostentatious print of the fabric.

* Top came out longer than my preferred length

*Sleeves are drafted 4 cm longer.

I prefer Burda's popular bateau neckline top from the Feb 2009 issue with the set-in sleeves. I like the look and fit of this top better.



*I am still am not sure about raglan sleeve style coupled with the bateau neckline. I need something that emphasizes shoulder width to balance my frame. The corners of the neckline feel as if they are slipping past my shoulders.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
*I staystitched the neckline 3/8" from the edge to stabilize it. Then I used the fold and topstitch method. The depth of the neckline came a about a pinky width lower than originally intended. I had a "skipped-stitch" issue in the neckline and decided to forgo any further fiddling with the fabric in that area.

*Shortened the sleeves 3/4"

*Took in the sleeve seams an additional 3/8" due to their "baggy" look on my arms. I prefer the sleeves from last year's bateau neckline top.

*Shortened the top another 1". I could have shortened it a little more.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I probably would make one in a plain or striped cotton knit which seems to be more suited for this particular style. If I want to sew a top with a similar neckline, I prefer last year's version with the set-in sleeves. Since this top is very easy to construct, it is ideal as a first-time Burda magazine project.


Conclusion:
Simple, stylish, and comfortable.

I'm hesitant about wearing this out of the house. But at least I have something ready for the next 60's retro themed day or event. "Peace and tranquility" will be replaced with "chaos and commotion"!

Hilary Puff

Remember that totally 80's song "I Just Can't Get Enough"? That is how I feel about this pattern. I just completed my fourth version of view B, the one with the puffed short sleeves.

Original Review with first, second, and third versions.


Pattern Description:
"Misses' pullover tops have scoop neckline finished with bias cut binding, gathers under bust and lower front is cut on bias. View A has slit on bodice at center front seam, and gathered sleeves have shirring with elastic. View B has short gathered sleees with elastic in casing in bottom edges. Pull-on bias cut skirt has elastic in casing at waist, and two ruffles at bottom edge." I sewed View B.


Pattern Sizing:
Misses' XS -XL. I referred to my bust size and sewed a "M". I find that Kwik Sews have been generous in their sizing. I even find the "M" a tad roomy.



Fabric
Maggy London cotton shirting from EmmaOneSock. It is slightly sheer with just a tad of drape. After I learned a valuable lesson from the past, I pre-washed the fabric (hand wash using a tad of baby shampoo) and machine dried it using the delicate cycle. The fabric still looks lovely.


Were the instructions easy to follow?
As mentioned in the previous review, Kwik Sew directions are superb. Now I can refer to the diagrams as prompts for the steps in construction.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
*As mentioned before, I like the overall style with the puffed sleeves and the empire seam which lands below the bustline which minimizes the "mommy-to-be" look. The puffed sleeves de-emphasize the hips.

* I did not like the tendency for the banded topstitched neckline (cut on the bias of the fabric) to curl inward.

* There is still some gaping at the upper back.

*The bias piece below the bustline can be at times unflattering due to revealing some curves that I would rather be kept hidden.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
* I added a self-lining for the upper front bodice due to the lightweight fabric. I sewed three layers of fabric together to form the shoulder seams, in which the back piece was over the entire front with their right sides together, and the self-lining was over the back piece (right side of the self-lining over the wrong side of the back).

*I shortened the upper back 1" by a horizontal fold. This eliminated the upper ripple I had in my previous tops. Next time, I plan to take the center back in further which would affect the length of the neckband.

*I skipped my usual 1" petite adjustment. Now the top does not have the tendency to "creep up" along my hips.

*I did not follow the recommended measurements for the elasticized sleeve band and went with the rule to cut "2 inches" more than your upper arm circumference, and make any adjustments from there.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, now that spring is just around the corner. My next adjustment is to take in the upper center back. Maybe I still should consider sewing with this pattern "a work in progress"?


Conclusion:
If you still have this fabric in your stash, give it a try!

Come on, Sew Happy

Oh yes, I got lucky and found the shirt and vest modeled by Susan Dey in a 1970 issue of Seventeen!

The fringed vest is from McCall's 2454. I purchased this from ebay.


The collared shirt was from McCall's 2019 from 1969. I purchased this from a vintage pattern online store: risingfeenix.com. I also purchased more from this store:



From the "young designer" series. I also have a "Mary Quant" pattern when she was a "young designer" that I purchased from Etsy over a year ago.


This dress looks "Halston-esque".

A retro knit pattern for my daughter Heather.


I thought these late 60's Butterick newsletters were groovy.


Here are pages from the newsletters.

These styles are very wearable today.

Here is a "new" pattern from Vogue Patterns, #8633.

I purchased these from ebay for Heather. Right now, she prefers knits over wovens.