X-Static

A pattern from 1966, the year of my birth: "Misses one-piece dress in two lengths: The dress with halter-type neckline haas back interest and zipper. Ankle-length v.1 has back neck band, bow and straps. Regular-length V. 2 has criss-crossed straps in backs." I sewed view 2, the dress with the criss-crossed back.

Size: Miss 14, Bust 34

I purchased this pattern either from etsy or ebay. I liked the criss cross back and cutaway sleeveless look. I wanted to sew an outfit that I would definitely wear and yet still straightforward to sew with little or no fitting issues, instead of something that is more time consuming due to many steps involved.

Back of envelope:

First version:  I used a cotton/twill? (from EmmaOneSock.com) type with little stretch. The circles print and shades are woven into the fabric. 

Second version:  A Michael Miller cotton fabric from Fabric.com

The first dress (the gray one) did not fit properly and the color just did not suit me. I could not zip it all the way up, and the bodice was long for me, because I did not do my usual petite adjustment. I put it aside and tried another pattern (a Simplicity dress from 1965) and I will not mention how that turned out.

So I returned to this pattern, and this time I made the following changes:

* Reduce the bodice by 1" at the waistline mark

* Add 3/8" to the front center seam, the center back, the neckline, and the top of the back strap.

* Adjusted the placement of the front diagonal darts since due to my petite adjustment at the waistline.

The depth of the neckline and the lower back could easily be controlled by the placement of the buttons on the straps before inserting them through the buttonholes on the back. I did not want to look and feel "constricted" so I left the neckline lower (while the shoulder seams are more forward) than on the illustrated models.

Now I am much happier!

**************************************************

Original Review

The directions are simple to follow, and the accompanying illustrations are very helpful. The directions for view 1 and view 2 are identical except that view 1 has the neckband with facings and the uncrossed back straps with a bow whereas view 2 has no neckband and the criss-crossed straps. I followed the directions with the exception of sewing the darts before the other steps.   The only changes I made to the pattern is adding 3/8 to the sides and 3/8" to the shoulders.   I wish I had included my usual petite adjustment (1" at the bodice).  There are occasions where I was able to get by without the adjustment.   Not all patterns are created equally.  I also used French seams for a nicer finish inside and also due to the fraying nature of this fabric.

The only thing that was unclear was the placement of the buttonholes. There were no markings on the back piece and none on the back facing. I assumed from the directions that the angled buttonholes were located on the back, about an inch or so from the start of the back vertical darts. However, it made sense to sew the buttonhole through the back facing so that the button located on the end of each strap is inserted from the inside of the dress to the outside. Otherwise, I would not know what to do with a back facing turned upwards!

Neck band with facing (four pieces which I really did not need for View 2, the dress with the criss-cross back), front facing (largest one),straps, and back facing (two pieces).

I used a red pencil to mark the darts.  For the front "diagonal" darts, I folded the tissue along the center of the dart, pinned it down, and traced one side (the printed dots and stitch lines)  so that is symmetric with respect to the ones printed on the pattern tissue.  Then I removed the other tissue and drew the other half. Excuse my lack of eye-hand coordination shown in my marks.

Here are my two back pieces with the vertical darts.

Here is the back with my "invisible zipper".  Actually this looked better than the one I applied on a 1970;s McCall's dress that I recently made. With more practice, I will master attaching the I.Z. I referred to a very helpful tutorial from somebody's flickr album. 

With my trustworthy assistant, I sewed on the front and back facings, using a 5/8" seam.  I had to be careful not to "catch" the straps that I basted onto the right sides of the front shoulders.

I "graded" or trimmed the seams, snip the curves, and turned the facing inside out. Out came the straps.  Mr. Procter Silex helped me with seam-pressing to avoid those unwanted puffs and waves at the neckline and armholes.  I sewed on the buttonholes at the back and attached a button to the end of each strap.  I used French seams for the center front and side seams.  I finished the edges of the zipper to minimize the fraying from the fabric.  All what's left is the bottom hem.

*************************************************

Finally, a semi-back dress that fits! The last time I wore one was in the mid-90's...

Wave-O-Lution

Wave-o-lutionary

This is the second pattern from her collection that I used.  From 1983: "Misses' Dress or Top: Pullover dress or top, tapered to hemline, has elastic in neckline and sleeve casings.


Size: Miss Medium


The style is a typical raglan-sleeved top with a gathered neckline. Although I sewed a 70's top from Simplicity, I was curious how this would turn out.

This is the first pattern from the Brooke Shields Signature collection that I sewed with.  It is from 1986.

For the 1983 top, I inserted the neckline elastic and stitch an end closed, I was shocked at the fit! Much to my dismay, it was a tent that P. T. Barnum would be happy to rent. This shocked my daughter the she was reluctant to photograph the "tent". A belt was not sufficient to "cinch away" the extra fabric. Here's the math: I ended up taking in the seams approximately 6" from each side and 6" from the center back. I made two darts with the widest part of each dart being 1". Therefore, I removed about a foot and 8" or about 5/9 of a yard of fabric.

I still do not like the fit of the back, although now it looks more decent than before. I am not sure if skipping my usual "petite" adjustments at the upper back and the other at the waist affected the outcome. The gathered fabric puffs out, making my upper back appear rounder and shorter. After my changes along the way, the top looks wearable, and would be more so after a few more adjustments. For an "easy" McCall's, I spent more time getting the top to fit than actually stitching the entire top. I prefer the fit of my "Super Simple" Simplicity top with similar styling. It is strange that the front and back section come from the same pattern piece, whereas in Brooke's pattern, the front and back come from two distinct pieces.

This pattern did not seem to be the same one that was used to create Brooke's top and dress. Also, A lighter weight fabric or one with more drape would seem to work better with this classic style.

Button-ical Gardens

As I was browsing through some of my pattern stash, I discovered many dress patterns. One of my sewing goals is to sew and wear more dresses, stepping out of my comfort zone of sewing tops/shirts/blouses and an occasional blazer/jacket.

From 1970, a "Step-by-step pattern" by McCall's: "Miss petite dress in three versions...." Original cost: 75 cents.

The front of the dress consists of three pieces: the left front bodice, the right front bodice, and the skirt. The dress has sleeveless and short-sleeve options along with options for welts and buttons details on the shoulders or diagonally along the front bodice.

I sewed a size 14, bust 36". It seemed as if McCall's was slightly generous in their sizing. If I went strictly by the specified measurements (i.e. 27 1/2") for this size, the dress would have been spacious.

Here's a  schematic of the pattern pieces and back views of  their dresses.

I used a mystery linen-blend type from Joann's. Although the fabric sewed nicely, it wrinkled easily and does not have the fluidity or drape to masquerade my figure flaws. Since it was only $2/yard, I thought it would be ideal for my first version or muslin from this pattern.

The directions  were straightforward and were accompanied by large and easily decipherable illustrations. Assembling the front bodice pieces was easier than I had expected. The matching notches aligned nicely. I would recommend this pattern for beginners if directions for attaching the back zipper were included. However, insufficient directions for particular methods could be supplemented with information obtained from on-line and/or print resources/tutorials.

Favorite Features

 *The buttons placed diagonally across the bodice.

*The composite bodice consisting of three distinct pieces that add geometric interest

*Fairly simple to sew

*Late 60's / early 70's aline style. After I sewed and tried on the dress, my mind conjured up images of retro airline stewardesses/flight attendants. I also recollect some bold blue color still worn by the KLM Dutch Airlines flight attendants on our flight to Sweden last summer.

Designer Matt Vasser just released a new line of his KLM uniforms for female flight attendants.

     In 2011, Cynthia Rowley will release her line of uniforms for United Airlines.  Here is a website containing a flight attendant's collection (coincidentally working for KLM) of "906 different stewardess uniforms from 378 airlines" It's interesting to see the evolution of fashion through the years. It's hard to tell if RTW was patterned after airline fashion or vice-versa.  Desginers such as Nina Ricci, Pierre Balmain, Balenciaga, Patou, Christian Lacroix and more have contributed to airline fashion. Here's a link  to a forum about these designer contributions.   In the 1960's, the now defunct Braniff International Airways hired Emilio Pucci to design stewardess attire in order to update its image.

Not-so-Favorite Features

* It would have been wiser and simpler to replace those cumbersome and bulky neckline and armhole facings with lining. The lining would have provided a "sleek and smooth" finish. When working with a retro/vintage pattern for the first time, I usually like to "stay true" as much as possible to the original directions. But sometimes, I drift from them, especially if there are simpler or updated methods that yield comparable or better results.

*I am not a fan of understitching (at the neckline seams and armhole seams), but it is needed to minimize the facings from "flapping" out.
* I re-cut the right front of the bodice on the bias due to fabric constraints. I discovered that I initially cut the piece on the wrong side just before stitching the front bodice pieces and skirt together (different lighting in my office). It was hard to distinguish the fabric's right and wrong sides due to their identical weave and imprint.


Pattern alterations:

*I interfaced the neckline and armhole facings. As in previous vintage patterns I used, the interfacing was basted onto the neckline before attaching the facings (non-interfaced).

*Usual adjustment: shortened the upper back by 1"

*Shorten the length by nearly 5".

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes, after another fitting adjustment, I would sew another version in a different fabric and include a lining. I definitely recommend this classic line of McCall's and other similar retro/vintage patterns due to their uniquely distinctive styles and geometric artistry that are rare in current RTW.

Conclusion:

Heather and I enjoyed wearing our new dresses on Easter day!

Triple Scoop

After making my first top with Vogue 8451, I have made two more versions. It's one of those styles that I enjoy wearing more.



"Lemon Pledge", a second version in a knit from fabric.com that I made last January. I like the puffed sleeves. Instead of setting in the sleeves, I sewed them in flat before sewing the seams of the sleeve bands, sleeves, and sides.











"Tie is on My Side".

I just completed my third version this month in a poly-lycra knit from GorgeousFabrics.com (left over fabric from a recently made Butterick mock wrap dress).






I replaced Vogue's front and back with ones from this 1970's McCall's pattern.


Modificatons made for third version:

(1)To make the top less form fitting while still having side and back shaping, I replaced the front and back bodice pieces with my traced, altered and cut (gift tissue) pattern pieces from McCall's knit pattern #4987, from 1976. Unlike Vogue 8451, the front did not have bust darts.

(2) I preserved the shape of the scooped neckline from this Vogue and traced it onto my McCall's #4987 pattern piece.

(3 ) Omitted the neckline facings and hence, the look of a mock neckline.

(4) Folded a narrow hem and topstitched the neckline

(5) Applied the sleeve band flat to the edge of the sleeve, right sides together.

(6) Instead of setting in the sleeves per Vogue, I sewed the sleeves in flat before sewing the seams of the sleeve bands, sleeves, and side seams.

(7) Added the tie belt I created while making my Butterick faux/mock wrap dress.




First version of my 1970's McCall's knit top with the cowl neck, worn with Simplicity slacks 4135.








"Octic Nerves", my first version made in January.









Original review

Faux All the Sewing Ladies

Faux all the "jingle" ladies: Beyonce covered up stunningly in a green wrap dress while in New York City promoting Samsung's B'phone on October 11, 2007



































I like the interesting hooks and clasp closures along her left side.






























From BarriePace.com, three faux wrap jersey dresses from Muse.




Butterick's version of the faux/mock wrap dress.


















After seeing Sharon M's stunning dress, I became tempted to purchase this pattern.

Last week's tribute to the Rolling Stones on American Idol still got me rocking and now sewing. Pardon me, Mick Zig-Zagger, for toning down the lyrics to make them SEW appropriate.


I'll come to your SEW-motional Dress-Cue
"Misses' Dress: Close-fitting, pullover dress, above midknee has mock wrapped front with stitched tucks at side, long sleeves, purchased applique and optional narrow finishing at hem." There are also back vertical darts for more shaping.

I purchased this pattern for only $0.99 along with other patterns at ebay instead of purchasing it on clearance at the Butterick website and paying exorbitant shipping prices for something lightweight packed in a mailing envelope.


Size is on My Side:
6-8-10-12


Between a Mock and a Wrap Dress
I would say that my dress resembled the dresses on the envelope, except that I replaced the tucks or pleats with gathers and included a tie belt.


Let's Sew Some Textiles Together:
Poly knit with a bit of lycra from GorgeousThings.com. I think a knit with more drape would provide more comfort and a desirable fit.





The vibrant colors remind me of the Aztec native costume worn by 2004's Barbie Aztec Princess of Ancient Mexico.


For your listening and viewing enjoyment, here is a treat for RS fans, which is also one of my favorite RS songs, 1965's The Last Time on youtube.com. They are better live, though.











I Sit and Watch As Seams Sew By...
*I like the style of a faux/mock wrap dress with a DVF flair

* There are four pattern pieces: Sleeve, back, right front, and left front (more like a bodice that ends at the waistline and goes beneath the right front or acts as an under lap as referenced by Sharon M in her very helpful review).

*After my usual adjustments, I was surprised that the lowest edge of the dress landed mid-knee on me, a length that I prefer. I wanted to warn women of all heights about this.

*Maybe due to the stability of my knit, I was able to staystitch, fold the raw edge under, forming a 5/8" hem, and topstitch the neckline.


*The left front piece that the right crosses over, would be more comfortable if it were 2-3 inches longer, because it had a tendency to ride upwards after considerable upper body movement. Even though I am short-waisted, I found the the left piece still short for me.

*The neckline is low, but not that low as I had expected. I still could get by without wearing a camisole.

*I agree that it is close-fitting, but I forgot to add more to the seams to coincide with my usual "14".


You Can Sew Me Up...I'll Never Stop, Never Stop....
The directions are fine. I was able to refer to them minimally, because the pattern was very easy instead of "easy" as printed on the back of the envelope. Although the dress is easy to sew and seems non-intimidating as a first dress project, it is easy to err while aligning the seams, especially if the markings are not transferred properly (or simply not transferred due to not noting their presence before cutting, ahem....) to the fabric pieces. While placing the long right front piece over the short left front piece, I aligned the matching dotted squares (located by the side tucks or pleats) and notches.

Although the directions mention using double stitched seams, a serger would be very convenient to finish the seams.


I See a Knit Sleeve and I want to SEW it Flat...
Instead of setting-in sleeves per Butterick (those directions should be changed due to sewing with knits), I sewed in the sleeves flat before sewing the sleeve and side seams.



Jumpin' Back Flash


The changes as said, they are under my thread...
*Shorten the upper back (at the lower armscye) 3/4"

*Take in the upper center back 1"

*1" petite adjustment at the waistline


Goodbye, Ruching, Today....Who could hang a pleat on you?..."
*Instead of making and sewing the three side tucks or pleats at at the right and left bodice that land below the bust (due to them being misplaced anyway after making my fitting adjustments), I loosened the thread tension and machine gathered the ends where supposedly the pleats started and ended. I still was able to obtain some type of ruched effect that transversed the abdominal area. The wrap look would most likely look better with the distinctive folds coming from the pleats. However, the folds would not be conspicuous due to the busy print of my fabric. Also, since I plan to use a belt with this dress, those folds would be covered up anyway.


*I cut and sewed a tie from the same fabric


Don't you panic, dont you panic, give it one more try...
I plan to sew this again and possibly add a collar. I have knits from my stash that would collaborate nicely with this pattern. If you are looking for a knit dress that is easy to sew and to adjust, then this is the pattern for you.


I can't get no....SEW-tisfaction. Hey, hey, hey...
I'm satisfied with the dress and even more so if it were in a drapier knit and in my usual size. I still recommend this pattern as a simpler alternative to a wrap dress.




Here is a little Christmas gift that I received from Keith Richards in 1995.
I received this via one of his nieces (through his marriage to 70's model Patti Hansen) who was a student of mine in the mid-90's. Looking back, she looked like a a sweet and young version of Beyonce...














Beyon-Sew gorgeously wrapped in animal print on Good Morning, America. I wonder if she will collaborate with Butterick or another company for a pattern of hits...

Mock On!

For the Birthday Girl

Today is Heather's 7th Birthday! On her little IKEA easel/whiteboard, she has been tallying the days remaining before her special day. I chuckled when I saw "Tomorrow is my birthday" and "Today is my birthday". It seemed like yesterday, when we celebrated her 6th birthday.





She opened her presents this morning. I did not give her the big box of gifts from my sister who lives in Henderson, Nevada (also Heather's godmother) until this morning. Heather and I have discussed it's not just the presents that make this a special day for her. This is also a special day for her father and me. I asked her why.




"Because it is the day when I popped out of your tummy and lived on Earth." She knows that she is a GIFT from God. Everyone are gifts for each other. Nobody can buy love, happiness, joy, and any of our life experiences...

She read and adored the card we gave her describing the positive characteristics she possesses and brings to our lives.


She also enjoys receiving goodies from my sewing machine.


This is her new favorite top from a McCall's pattern.





I was excited to sew the trendy semi-detached top. Because it ended up being a tad tight and uncomfortable, I sewed the long sleeved version in the same fabric, but in the next larger size, a girls' size 8.



Pattern Description:
Girls' coordinates: knit tops and skirts. Views A and C are the knit tops and views B and E are the skirts with a flounce at the lower edges. Views A and D are "semi-fitted" and views B, C, and E are "close-fitting". I figure top A is looser than top C.

I originally intended to sew view C, the top with the bare upper sleeve, or what I call the "semi-detached sleeve" look. After the "close fitting" experience which I will describe later, I ended up with both styles of the top in the same fabric.

Pattern Sizing:
I sewed view C in a girl's size 7 (122) and view A in a girl's size 8 (128).

Fabric Used:
Hello Kitty cotton t-shirt type of knit from fabric.com. I discovered that this fabric with the neon pink Hello Kitty faces is already sold out. The one with the lilac Hello Kitty faces was available the last time I checked.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, they were because there were illustrations that accompanied the steps. The dots on the lower part of each armscye are the placement positions for the semi-detached sleeve of view C.





What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Favorite Features
* Simple to sew
* View A is a versatile basic knit top pattern. I could easily modify the sleeve length and style.


Not-so-favorite Features
I originally sewed View C, the one with the bare upper sleeves. The neckline facing strip (cut on the straight grain of the fabric) really stabilized the neckline to the point that it did not stretch much when my daughter slipped the top over head. I joked about her still having a big skull (it was noticeably large when she was an infant with a circumference that ranked in the 110% percentile at the time). She also experienced some tightness in the armscye, which is contrary to her usual experience in RTW size 7 tops being slightly baggy due to her slender frame. It seemed as if this top would fit her better in a poly knit fabric. Although this style is trendy, Heather did not think it was appropriate for school. So I traced the pieces for the other top, and cut one size larger , an "8". Heather was barely able to slip the second version of the top over her head. It would have been wiser to abandon the neckline self-binding in favor of a coverstitched or topstitched neckline for more wearing ease.





Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
* I did not the cut the pattern tissue paper. It was more convenient to me trace the pieces with a particular size onto gift wrap tissue paper and make any necessary adjustments. I traced a "7" of the pattern pieces from View C and an "8" of the pattern pieces from View A.

*Shortened each sleeve of the second version(view a) 1 1/2".


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I plan to sew more of the view A top and possibly the flounced skirt using knits from my stash. The combined time for both styles of tops took one full evening for me (less than four hours). This is a wonderful first-time knit project.

Conclusion:
I really like the Burda patterns for kids. Unlike my experiences with the big 4 patterns, I have encountered very few or no adjustments.

Happy Birthday to you, Heather, and also to Albert Einstein who was also born 131 years ago on the day of pi (3.14)!

Cult of Fleurs-onality

From 1973.


The use of this classic pattern stemmed from my experience with a UFO project, Butterick knit dress 5243. After cutting the pieces (which seemed to take more time than expected), I eagerly started stitching. I could not figure out why my machine behaved strangely with this poly knit because it felt similar to a ITY knit, which it had no problem sewing. I would get skipped stitches despite numerous needle, tension, and stitch changes. Once I switched to another project, I did not encounter problems. So the dress pieces along with the pattern stayed in a plastic bag for more than 6 months.

Then along came the opportunity to revisit this dress due to the UFO (unfinished objects) contest. Things were running smoothly when I was able to sew the attach the sleeves to the upper bodice and gather the lower edge of the bodice until I attached the facing to the neckline. My stitching went haywire. Then I looked at it and told myself this will not work. It was confirmed when I slipped it over my head and my instinct was correct- this dress was not meant for me. I probably made a goof somewhere or the dress's style does not work for me. This project was tainted from the beginning.

So, I shifted gears and decided to try this Simplicity pattern from 1973. I found remaining fabric from previous projects and shortened the dress pattern to create two tops. Then for my third version, I decided to cut the top from the skirt (against the grain, due to size constraints)originally intended for THAT Butterick knit dress. Now, I feel relieved to eliminate this fabric from my UFO list.

Pattern Description:
From 1973: "The flared dress has low round neckline, back zipper, and top-stitching trim. Short dress V. 1 has long set-in sleeves. Long dress V. 2 has short set-in sleeves."


Pattern Sizing:
Misses' size 12, bust 34

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes, except I shortened the dress pattern into one for a top.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, from all my experiences with a pattern from the "Jiffy" series. As usual, clear illustrations are included.
First version




Third version

Fabric Used:
Poly knit from GorgeousFabrics. All came from fabric that I used in previous projects.


Favorite Features
* Scoop neckline
* Curved contour at side seams that work nicely with my figure
* Gathered style at sleeve caps that balance what's below the bustline


There is nothing to dislike about the pattern except for the facings which I excluded. However, I would use the facings if I create the dress version in a double knit because it would look much better with a non-topstitched neckline.



Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

To preserve the original pattern, I traced the front, back, and sleeve pieces onto gift wrap tissue paper. It was easy to make any necessary adjustments.

*Omitted the front and back facings

*For my second and third versions, I took in the upper center back seam by 3/4" to eliminate some gaping that I experienced in my first version.

* Removed the added 1/4" at the armscye, or in other words, I did not have to change the armscye of the original pattern.

* Shortened the upper back by making a horizontal fold with a width of 3/4".

*Made my usual 3/4" petite adjustment between the bust and hips.

*Traced a short sleeve pattern piece from the long sleeve pattern piece.

*Staystitched 1/4" from the neckine, folded the edge under at the staystitching and topstitched



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

After making three of these, still a big YES! It is one of those easy and gratifying things to sew. I definitely recommend this and other Jiffy patterns to sewists at all levels. Jiffy patterns are "easy chic". I confess that what I have been wearing out often are my poly knit tops created from Simplicity or McCall "carefree" (anyone remember?) patterns from the 1970's. The simple style of a deep (but not too deep) scoop neck with some shaping at the sides work best with my figure and just a change of fabric can significantly alter the personality of the garment.


Conclusion:

I have been usually successful with patterns from the 1970's. With little or no alterations, I have been very fortunate to have something that fits BETTER than current RTW. Suppose I have 10 garments to try on in department store dressing room. I would be lucky to have ONE that fits decently. I have better luck fitting into something I sewed straight from the pattern envelope...