Striped-Out

The  Dynasty Dames revived glitz and glamour in primetime TV during the 80's. John Forsythe or "Blake" was caught in the middle.   The sweetheart neckline that seems to look good on every woman was a distinctive style element from the 1940's and seemed to reinvent itself in decades thereafter. Check out Catherine Oxenberg, Heather Locklear, and Pamela Bellwood in the bottow row.  I can safely surmise that the 1980's ladies can get away with sporting a mullet-ized coiffure while wearing an evening gown.

St. John jacket seems like a hybrid of a halter dress with sweetheart neckline nd a bolero or shrug.  All this for just under $1,385.

This lady in red is dressed in a mistique suit from Ashro.com for $189.  I like the way the front princess seams lead into the front seams of the skirt. 

New Look 6867 caught my attention at Le Wal Marche. The jacket's flattering neckline was the highlight of this pattern.  After purchasing this with three other New Look patterns, I sewed it not too long after arriving home.

Uh-oh, totally 80's tunes are coming back with just the mention of Dynasty.


You make my SEAMS come true, ooh, ooh, ooh, ooh...

Pattern Description:
Unlined jacket with either 3/4 sleeves or pleated short sleeves and sleeveless dresses with shoulder strap options.


The pattern contains 17 pieces. For the jacket, I cut 4 of the fronts (2 were used later as interfaced facings), one of the center back, 2 of the side fronts, 2 of the side backs, and 2 sleeve pieces.

Pattern Sizing:

Misses' 8-18. I sewed a "12" at the shoulders and armscye, and a "14" at the sides.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes, except that my shirt/jacket is more loose fitting.

Fabric Used:


Polyester pin-striped fabric with some stretch from FashionistaFabrics.com. This fabric was left over from my Burda 129 waiscoat/vest from the September 2009 issue.

Your stitch, your stitch is on my list...

Favorite Features

*Sweetheart neckline with a raised or standing collar.

*Princess seams at the front and back.

*Short or 3/4 sleeve options

*Just as easy to construct as a princess-seamed shirt with front facings.



I can't SEW for that, no can do...

Not-so-favorite Features

*I concur with fellow PR sewists who worked with this pattern that the jacket runs larger than the usual sizing. I could have gone down a size. I can understand the jacket being loose to make allowance for wearing over certains tops or dresses.

* It would have been more practical to line the entire jacket. I probably would have taken about the same or less time if I included a lining instead of slipstitching or handstitching the front facings to the princess seams and slipstitching the lower hem.

* There is a slight bulk at the front armscye caused by the thickness of the fabric, and stitching together the front facing and sleeve with the armscye sandwiched in between the two layers.

Everytime you SEW away, you sew a piece of me with you...

Were the instructions easy to follow?

* The verbage, order of construction, and illustrations, were user friendly. The jacket, views D and E, occupied only the third and fourth pages of the entire set.

* Stitching the princess seams (side fronts to the fronts and side backs to the center back) was effortless due to the notches aligning nicely.

* Details such as stay-stitching along the neckline and clipping inset corners are included.

*The front sections are joined together to form a center back seam. The upper part of the front facings are attached to the back portion of the neckline, interrupted by a clipped corner and continues outwards to form the left and right shoulder seams and downards matching the edges of the armscyes and curving towards the center to form the princess seams with the side front pieces.

*The front facings are interfaced and joined at the center back the same way as the front sections. With right sides together, they are attached along the front edges and the upper edge of the collar and turned to the inside. I did a considerable amount of iron pressing, at the seams, especially at the neckline.

Say it isn't SEW...

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

* My usual adjustments:

   Folded a 1" petite adjustment at the designated line


  Shortened the upper back by 3/4" to minimize waves and rolls caused by excess fabric. Although I forgot to adjust the sleeves to account for the upper back adjustment, I did not take too much from the sleeve caps while setting them into the armholes.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I probably would sew this shirt/jacket again with the pleated short sleeves. I recommend this pattern for classic style and design and its simplicity in construction.

Conclusion:

Variations in fabric, buttons, trim, neckline, and sleeves make this pattern highly adaptable. The pattern for the dress also looks very promising.

This is a Terijon taffeta top retailing for $350. It is simple, yet elegant

Nanette Lepore's "Wistful" top has more depth and less width, but not a low pricetag.

A fellow sewist sent me "two more buttons" in good humor.  I originally intended to add two more buttons, but did not have enough of the same buttons to complete the look. Actually, the jacket looks better with five buttons.

Pink A Dilly

Tops and tunics in border prints are trending for this summer.  Here's is a Lucky Brand Jeans top from Macy's for $79.50

Pattern Description:

New Look 6964's vague description: "Misses' six sizes in one".

My description: Tops with sleeve and neck variations. View A has a wide V-neckline with encased ribbon tied at the center front and 3/4 sleeves with elasticized openings. View B has short flutter-like sleeves with the same neckline as view A. View C has the same neckline as A, except that it is sleeveless and the exposed portions of the ribbon tie acting as shoulder straps. Views D ad E are also sleeveless with variations of the ribbon shoulder straps and a horizontal neckline. View E has a ruffled front.

Pattern Sizing:

Misses' 6-16. I sewed a "12" at the neckline and armholes and a "14" at the sides. I found the top to run loose and could have gotten away with a "12" at the sides.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?For the most part, except I used a solid instead of a border print and my top came out shorter and baggier than what appears on the envelope, keeping in mind that my torso is vertically challenged. I suspect cinching the elastic more than I shouuld at the neckline (before stitching the ends closed), resulted in not only raising the neckline to a more modest level, but some bunching at the bust and hence, raising the front hemline.


Were the instructions easy to follow?

They and the accompanying illustrations together were fine. However, I changed the order of construction due to what I have been accustomed to do when constructing garments containing raglan sleeves. After sewing the center front and center back, I did not immediately stitch the side seams as instructed and the sleeve seams as directed. Instead, I sewed each sleeve to the corresponding front and back, much like sewing each flat, except that the top part of the sleeve forms the shoulder section joining the front and back sections of the bodice. Then I sewed the sleeve seams and sides as one continuous seam.

Favorite/Not-so-favorite Features

* I like the wide "V" neckline with a low (not the typical "Burda" low), but still modest neckline. But then the accetably low neckline could be the result of my use of elastic instead of a ribbon in the neckline casing.

*Simple to sew. For View A, there are only three pieces to work with: the front, back, and sleeve.

*I do like the 3/4 length sleeves, but they seem balloon or billow out more than what is pictured on the envelope. But maybe not quite as much as Spiegel's top from the summer of last year.

* In terms of construction, this top somewhat reminds me of New Look 6892, with the exceptions of having a lower neckline, center front and back seams, a keyhole opening at the center front, and uses a ribbon tie at the neckline instead of elastic.

* Has a more "boxy" fit and shorter lengthwise than New Look 6892.   Although I like the style of this top,  it is not figure flattering for me.

* After making my usual 3/4" inch petite adjustment at the line located between the bust and hips, I found that the back puffed a little at my waistline. Another 1" adjustment probably would solve that issue.

* I am not too fond of ribbon shoulder straps used for the sleeveless views. If I do make any of those views, I would replace them ties from the same fabric as the bodice.

*I added 1" to the length due to the pattern running shorter than expected.

Fabric Used:

Swiss-dotted lightweight cotton.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

*I sewed French seams at the center front and center back, sides, and sleeve seams. I joined the sleeves to the front and back in a traditional manner.

* Since I got carried away with the French seams, I inadvertently forgot to create the opening at the center front or the "keyhole" where the ends of the ribbon tie joined or enlaced. Instead I stitched the casing closed, which was tricky since it was a "V" instead of a "U" neckline.

*Replaced ribbon with 3/8" elastic for the neckline for more stability. I threaded the elastic with a safety pin through the neckline casing (starting and ending at the center back) formed by a 5/8" seam allowance at the hem. The directions called for a 3/8" allowance for the ribbon that is 5/8" wide.

*I cut on the bias a strip, approximately 21" in length and 1 1/2" width. I folded it in half right sides together, sewed it lengthwise 1/4" from the edge, turned it inside out, and tied bow which I tacked to the center front.

Conclusion:

If I make this again, I would go down a size, especially at the sides,  use a drapier fabric, and create the keyhole front.  This pattern is a nice and gratifying project to get me back to a routine of sewing again. It's a nice basic top for beginners to try.

I wish this top is wrinkle-free.


* I prefer the top I made two years ago using Simplicity pattern dated 1971.  The shorter sleeves and the gathered bottom are more flattering.

The O's-Zone Layer

Here's a 1970's pattern for a simple knit wrap dress or top. I made the knit top, but without the wrap option. I was conducting an experiment or "sew-periment" in making a non-wrap knit top from a wrap top/dress pattern.  I liked the side shaping and the unique center back shaping and wanted to discover how these details work with my figure before committing myself to the "wrap" style of this pattern.

Size 14, bust 36.  I used a polyester knit for my top.

I transformed the left and right bodice into one front piece, thus omitting the crossover and wrap detail.


From what I glanced, the directions seemed fine for the wrap top or dress. I did not really use them since I was creating something else. I retraced the front and back pieces onto tissue paper and made my usual adjustments.



I purchased this pattern from ebay due to its no-frills wrap style and that it would seem simple to sew. With the front left, front right, back, attached tie and sleeves to deal with, (top is cut from the pieces with length at the specified cutting lines), and a reliable method to finish the neckline, there should be little or no problem in putting this dress together. The only slight dislike is the long bell sleeves.





My  modifications:

*Transferred my usual adjustments to the pattern that I traced onto tissue paper (1" petite adjustment between the bust and hips, shorten the upper back by 3/4", and add 1/4" to the side seams)

* I cut the front as one piece along the center front of the bodice.

* I cut out a scoop neckline, instead of leaving it as a "v" shaped neckline.

*Borrowed the long sleeve piece from my Simplicity 6082

I plan to sew the wrap dress version of this pattern.

Based on the results of this "sew-periment" of creating a non-wrap top from a wrap dress/top pattern, I am satisfied with the top and would be more so with a few more changes. Next time, I would add another 2" to the length, raise the neckline an additional 1/2", and to take in further the upper side seams to reduce some bagginess under the arms and alongside the bust.  It would have made sense to account for this since I was used a pattern piece originally designed for a "wrap" style, silly me....

I have enjoyed the freedom of combining certain style elements from different patterns. I may get some pleasant and not-so-pleasant surprises from the results. After taking time to do these "sew-periments", I hope to achieve my goal of creating a TNT pattern.

Wrapped in a hug:

We wish you a Happy Mother's Day!

X-Static

A pattern from 1966, the year of my birth: "Misses one-piece dress in two lengths: The dress with halter-type neckline haas back interest and zipper. Ankle-length v.1 has back neck band, bow and straps. Regular-length V. 2 has criss-crossed straps in backs." I sewed view 2, the dress with the criss-crossed back.

Size: Miss 14, Bust 34

I purchased this pattern either from etsy or ebay. I liked the criss cross back and cutaway sleeveless look. I wanted to sew an outfit that I would definitely wear and yet still straightforward to sew with little or no fitting issues, instead of something that is more time consuming due to many steps involved.

Back of envelope:

First version:  I used a cotton/twill? (from EmmaOneSock.com) type with little stretch. The circles print and shades are woven into the fabric. 

Second version:  A Michael Miller cotton fabric from Fabric.com

The first dress (the gray one) did not fit properly and the color just did not suit me. I could not zip it all the way up, and the bodice was long for me, because I did not do my usual petite adjustment. I put it aside and tried another pattern (a Simplicity dress from 1965) and I will not mention how that turned out.

So I returned to this pattern, and this time I made the following changes:

* Reduce the bodice by 1" at the waistline mark

* Add 3/8" to the front center seam, the center back, the neckline, and the top of the back strap.

* Adjusted the placement of the front diagonal darts since due to my petite adjustment at the waistline.

The depth of the neckline and the lower back could easily be controlled by the placement of the buttons on the straps before inserting them through the buttonholes on the back. I did not want to look and feel "constricted" so I left the neckline lower (while the shoulder seams are more forward) than on the illustrated models.

Now I am much happier!

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Original Review

The directions are simple to follow, and the accompanying illustrations are very helpful. The directions for view 1 and view 2 are identical except that view 1 has the neckband with facings and the uncrossed back straps with a bow whereas view 2 has no neckband and the criss-crossed straps. I followed the directions with the exception of sewing the darts before the other steps.   The only changes I made to the pattern is adding 3/8 to the sides and 3/8" to the shoulders.   I wish I had included my usual petite adjustment (1" at the bodice).  There are occasions where I was able to get by without the adjustment.   Not all patterns are created equally.  I also used French seams for a nicer finish inside and also due to the fraying nature of this fabric.

The only thing that was unclear was the placement of the buttonholes. There were no markings on the back piece and none on the back facing. I assumed from the directions that the angled buttonholes were located on the back, about an inch or so from the start of the back vertical darts. However, it made sense to sew the buttonhole through the back facing so that the button located on the end of each strap is inserted from the inside of the dress to the outside. Otherwise, I would not know what to do with a back facing turned upwards!

Neck band with facing (four pieces which I really did not need for View 2, the dress with the criss-cross back), front facing (largest one),straps, and back facing (two pieces).

I used a red pencil to mark the darts.  For the front "diagonal" darts, I folded the tissue along the center of the dart, pinned it down, and traced one side (the printed dots and stitch lines)  so that is symmetric with respect to the ones printed on the pattern tissue.  Then I removed the other tissue and drew the other half. Excuse my lack of eye-hand coordination shown in my marks.

Here are my two back pieces with the vertical darts.

Here is the back with my "invisible zipper".  Actually this looked better than the one I applied on a 1970;s McCall's dress that I recently made. With more practice, I will master attaching the I.Z. I referred to a very helpful tutorial from somebody's flickr album. 

With my trustworthy assistant, I sewed on the front and back facings, using a 5/8" seam.  I had to be careful not to "catch" the straps that I basted onto the right sides of the front shoulders.

I "graded" or trimmed the seams, snip the curves, and turned the facing inside out. Out came the straps.  Mr. Procter Silex helped me with seam-pressing to avoid those unwanted puffs and waves at the neckline and armholes.  I sewed on the buttonholes at the back and attached a button to the end of each strap.  I used French seams for the center front and side seams.  I finished the edges of the zipper to minimize the fraying from the fabric.  All what's left is the bottom hem.

*************************************************

Finally, a semi-back dress that fits! The last time I wore one was in the mid-90's...

Wave-O-Lution

Wave-o-lutionary

This is the second pattern from her collection that I used.  From 1983: "Misses' Dress or Top: Pullover dress or top, tapered to hemline, has elastic in neckline and sleeve casings.


Size: Miss Medium


The style is a typical raglan-sleeved top with a gathered neckline. Although I sewed a 70's top from Simplicity, I was curious how this would turn out.

This is the first pattern from the Brooke Shields Signature collection that I sewed with.  It is from 1986.

For the 1983 top, I inserted the neckline elastic and stitch an end closed, I was shocked at the fit! Much to my dismay, it was a tent that P. T. Barnum would be happy to rent. This shocked my daughter the she was reluctant to photograph the "tent". A belt was not sufficient to "cinch away" the extra fabric. Here's the math: I ended up taking in the seams approximately 6" from each side and 6" from the center back. I made two darts with the widest part of each dart being 1". Therefore, I removed about a foot and 8" or about 5/9 of a yard of fabric.

I still do not like the fit of the back, although now it looks more decent than before. I am not sure if skipping my usual "petite" adjustments at the upper back and the other at the waist affected the outcome. The gathered fabric puffs out, making my upper back appear rounder and shorter. After my changes along the way, the top looks wearable, and would be more so after a few more adjustments. For an "easy" McCall's, I spent more time getting the top to fit than actually stitching the entire top. I prefer the fit of my "Super Simple" Simplicity top with similar styling. It is strange that the front and back section come from the same pattern piece, whereas in Brooke's pattern, the front and back come from two distinct pieces.

This pattern did not seem to be the same one that was used to create Brooke's top and dress. Also, A lighter weight fabric or one with more drape would seem to work better with this classic style.

Button-ical Gardens

As I was browsing through some of my pattern stash, I discovered many dress patterns. One of my sewing goals is to sew and wear more dresses, stepping out of my comfort zone of sewing tops/shirts/blouses and an occasional blazer/jacket.

From 1970, a "Step-by-step pattern" by McCall's: "Miss petite dress in three versions...." Original cost: 75 cents.

The front of the dress consists of three pieces: the left front bodice, the right front bodice, and the skirt. The dress has sleeveless and short-sleeve options along with options for welts and buttons details on the shoulders or diagonally along the front bodice.

I sewed a size 14, bust 36". It seemed as if McCall's was slightly generous in their sizing. If I went strictly by the specified measurements (i.e. 27 1/2") for this size, the dress would have been spacious.

Here's a  schematic of the pattern pieces and back views of  their dresses.

I used a mystery linen-blend type from Joann's. Although the fabric sewed nicely, it wrinkled easily and does not have the fluidity or drape to masquerade my figure flaws. Since it was only $2/yard, I thought it would be ideal for my first version or muslin from this pattern.

The directions  were straightforward and were accompanied by large and easily decipherable illustrations. Assembling the front bodice pieces was easier than I had expected. The matching notches aligned nicely. I would recommend this pattern for beginners if directions for attaching the back zipper were included. However, insufficient directions for particular methods could be supplemented with information obtained from on-line and/or print resources/tutorials.

Favorite Features

 *The buttons placed diagonally across the bodice.

*The composite bodice consisting of three distinct pieces that add geometric interest

*Fairly simple to sew

*Late 60's / early 70's aline style. After I sewed and tried on the dress, my mind conjured up images of retro airline stewardesses/flight attendants. I also recollect some bold blue color still worn by the KLM Dutch Airlines flight attendants on our flight to Sweden last summer.

Designer Matt Vasser just released a new line of his KLM uniforms for female flight attendants.

     In 2011, Cynthia Rowley will release her line of uniforms for United Airlines.  Here is a website containing a flight attendant's collection (coincidentally working for KLM) of "906 different stewardess uniforms from 378 airlines" It's interesting to see the evolution of fashion through the years. It's hard to tell if RTW was patterned after airline fashion or vice-versa.  Desginers such as Nina Ricci, Pierre Balmain, Balenciaga, Patou, Christian Lacroix and more have contributed to airline fashion. Here's a link  to a forum about these designer contributions.   In the 1960's, the now defunct Braniff International Airways hired Emilio Pucci to design stewardess attire in order to update its image.

Not-so-Favorite Features

* It would have been wiser and simpler to replace those cumbersome and bulky neckline and armhole facings with lining. The lining would have provided a "sleek and smooth" finish. When working with a retro/vintage pattern for the first time, I usually like to "stay true" as much as possible to the original directions. But sometimes, I drift from them, especially if there are simpler or updated methods that yield comparable or better results.

*I am not a fan of understitching (at the neckline seams and armhole seams), but it is needed to minimize the facings from "flapping" out.
* I re-cut the right front of the bodice on the bias due to fabric constraints. I discovered that I initially cut the piece on the wrong side just before stitching the front bodice pieces and skirt together (different lighting in my office). It was hard to distinguish the fabric's right and wrong sides due to their identical weave and imprint.


Pattern alterations:

*I interfaced the neckline and armhole facings. As in previous vintage patterns I used, the interfacing was basted onto the neckline before attaching the facings (non-interfaced).

*Usual adjustment: shortened the upper back by 1"

*Shorten the length by nearly 5".

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes, after another fitting adjustment, I would sew another version in a different fabric and include a lining. I definitely recommend this classic line of McCall's and other similar retro/vintage patterns due to their uniquely distinctive styles and geometric artistry that are rare in current RTW.

Conclusion:

Heather and I enjoyed wearing our new dresses on Easter day!