Den-im-Might

Denim is not just for jeans and jackets, but also for dresses! There are denim shirtdresses, denim sheath dresses, denim bandeau dresses, denim corset dresses, denim bustier dresses, ruffled denim dresses, denim tank dresses, denim zipper front dresses, and the list goes on.  My favorite dress back in the 1990's was a zip-front dress in a light weight denim that I purchased in the junior's department.  I wish I could wear one now, like I did back then. 


After my success in sewing a dress with a halter-style criss-cross back with  a 1966 Simplicity pattern, I thought I would sew a dress in a "style that I also have not worn in while", such a dress with a bandeau upper bodice and thin shoulder straps.

One of my favorite singers, adorable Carrie Underwood in a Jay Godfrey "Colorblock" denim dress with exposed zipper for an unbelievable $315 at TheTrendBoutique.com. 

Although I am not a fan of Kim Kardashian, here she is looking chic in a VOOM pinstriped denim dress by Joy Han.  Dress can be found at TheHipChick.com.

I just sewed a "knock-off" or "copy-cat" version of a bandeau denim dress.  The dress that inspired me was DKNYC's denim fitted dress sheath found in Macy's.com.

Betsey Johnson's denim jacquard dress with straps has a similar style.

I used McCall's 5881 view C for my inspiration dress, which consisted of four pattern pieces: the front bodice, the back bodice, the lower front, and lower back.  I cut two of the front bodice on a fold (one for the facing) and two pairs of the back bodice, one pair of which will form the back facing.  I used chalk and red pen to mark the bust darts and the darts on the front and back skirt pieces. 

Although I like the style of this dress, two drawbacks for me are that this dress displays my asymmetrical curves and emphasizes my vertically challenged torso, characteristics which I prefer to camouflage with print and/or unfitted styles! For now, one of this type of dress will do. However, I find that the bust runs a tad large, especially at the front.




But then, vivacious Niecy Nash, is an inspiration for women of all shapes and sizes.  I became an instant fan of hers after her appearance on Dancing With the Stars.

This is the entire upper bodice with the front facing and upper back facings, before turning inside out and understitching the edges. The white chalk marks signify the positions of the shoulder straps. I cut two strips, each being 1 1/2" in width and 16" in length. I folded each strip in half, right sides together and sewed a 1/4" seam. I performed the arduous task of turning the strips inside out, with a safety pin. I was nearly tempted to ditch this method in favor of just stitching lengthwise along the edge of an iron-pressed folded strip.

After some initial fittings, I changed the placement of the front ends and back ends of the straps. I also shortened each strap about an inch.

My experience with denim as often "frayed' my nerves. So I used some strips of fabric remnants to finish the seams. I did the best I can to hand-stitch or slip-stitch the folded edge of the facing to the inside seam. It was a challenge to deal with the puckers as I stitched.

I machine finished the edge,turned up and iron pressed a 1" hem instead of a 2" hem as directed.  I previously shortened the pattern by 3"

Conclusion.

Just a change in fabric and embellishments make this a versatile pattern to create "daytime" dresses and dramatic evening or formal attire.

The Blue Jean-ies

I promised Heather that she would get a new pair of jeans from Old Navy once her cast was removed.  She liked the fit of the Old Navy jeans she recently outgrew and could not wait to get a new pair.  It has been two weeks that she has been freed from the cast on June 23. 

Finding a pair of nice fitting jeans is not an easy task.  In Heather's case, jeans are usually very loose due to her slender build, with varying lengths.  Seven months ago, I sewed Jalie 2908.  However, she only wore them twice because at that time they were loose and long.  After being recently "discovered", they fit her better now after some "growing up".  This pattern is the closest to fit and style of her once favorite Old Navy Jeans.  I plan to sew her a new pair with "peace-heart" symbols on the back pockets.


Review of Jalie 2908 jeans pattern

Last winter:

I nearly purchased a pair of the ladies "Sweetheart" style closest to my size with the $19 price tag, but did not because I was not fully satisfied with the fit- the waistband situated a tad lower than what I preferred, and the legs- did not have the sleekness I was looking for in a "boot cut".   Now I plan to sew a pair of Jalie 2908 jeans for myself and another for my daughter!




Today, after we purchased a new pair of Old Navy jeans,  an argyle sweater, a pair of slippers, and three thermos-style sippers on clearance, Heather asked to be photographed by some "Old Navy kids", the "talking" mannequins that she sees in the commercials.  She is wearing a Jalie 2788 twist top and the Jalie 2908 jeans that fit her better now.

Heather poses by a "low maintenance" pup at the store.

Going blue/green with reusable shopping Old Navy tote bags.

A Fair-y Tale

Ruffles: little and big, are appearing not only on the center front,  on necklines, in tiers, but also asymmetrically on the sides, and...

 First column:upper top from Boston Proper top  for $89 and second top also from Boston Proper.

Second column: upper ($34) and center ($34) from ELLE from Kohls and lower picture from INC international Concepts for $49 from Macy's.


Third column; all from the Chaps ($36, $45, $35) collection from Kohl's.


Fourth column: upper picture, Milly's $245 top from Saks Fifth Avenue, center picture: Carolina Herrera's $1,190 ruffle top ffrom Neiman Marcus, and bottom pic at the lowest right: Aquilano Rimondi top from Neiman Marcus for $770.

...even on a pair of Marc Jacobs' bloomer/shorts, which seems to be suitable and adorable for little girls...

Although I am not introducing a new garment, I just want to share a recent experience with a top that I sewed a year ago from McCall's 5803.

Have you ever had the experience of sewing something in the past and not wearing it or wearing it only once, only to wear it a year or more later (after letting it be in hiding) and appreciating it more? Is this common?

Here is the link of my original blog entry about this pattern:

Ruffle-ly Speaking

This photo was taken on July of last year.

It's been two years since we visited our annual local county fair. Of course, my daughter was more thrilled than my husband and me combined.

Here's Heather and I "planting" ourselves in front of an exhibit at the Plant/Flower/Jacuzzi section.

I originally intended to wear a knit top, but this time, I wanted to wear something that would be in alignment with the ruffles trend this season. Even ruffled shower curtains are "in". The sleeveless or "cutaway" armhole style and the voile-type fabric seemed to be ideal for the arrival of warm and sunny weather after today's early morning overcast as mentioned by my husband. After a tad of shrinkage from the wash, I was surprised that the top fits me decently.

I plan to sew this top (one with and another without the ruffles) again very soon with the summer season still here. I also noticed that I did not need to perform the petite adjustment and it would be better to add 2" to the length to camouflage my short torso. I have had similar experiences with a few other McCall's tops or jackets.



Life is a Carousel, oh chum

My daughter and I rode the "Wave Swinger", a carousel supposedly identical (we are here somehwere...) to Michael J's version at his well known estate. I recommend this if you are into "flying" and "pendulum" motion rides with surprising speed. "Never" land on this type of ride especially if you have vertigo and/or fear of flights. My tolerance for "thrill'-ing rides is waning a bit. I was still disoriented for minutes well after disembarking from the swing.

I hope very soon to hop back on the sewing "carousel", after my completing my list of other projects. Although this pattern is now out-of-print just as the entire Hilary Duff line, I still recommend this pattern, but with a caution on sizing, especially for taller women. It seemed that Ms. Duff's patterns contain styles that are trendy now and potentially very wearable in future seasons.

It seems now I am seeing more variations of the recognizable Burda Style's JJ ruffled top in the fashion scene than when I initally saw the pattern two years ago. Using MJ's Wave Swinger pendulum ride as a metaphor, fashion styles travel to a sky-high upswing for a certain period and taper off to a momentary low and a stop. Then the fashion "wave cycle" repeats, beckoning more to take a ride.

Runway ruffle trend 2010

More Fun at the Fair

Before the Wave Swinger

A lady, upon exiting this ride, recommended to not get on this ride, especially directed at my daughter. She was nearly sick to her stomach. My husband and daughter are somehere here "riding the Storm". Heather cheated by closing her eyes most of the time during the ride. My husband also felt sorry for a man turning red after the middle of the ride. Fortunately, I originally opted to avoid this one, and take this video.

Night Owls
Father and daughter at a little Toyota exhibit. Heather is "test driving" a brand new Highlander. Approximate cost:  $30,000.

Eager Evening Rider
 I remember riding with Heather in a similar ride two years ago here and a "larger" version of this last year at Oland Amusement Park in Sweden. I reminded Heather to keep her neck firm and be bold.

View from a "ski-lift" overlooking a section of the fairgrounds.

Before Ten before ten in the evening, the fair's closing time. We are all tired, but still happy.

Striped-Out

The  Dynasty Dames revived glitz and glamour in primetime TV during the 80's. John Forsythe or "Blake" was caught in the middle.   The sweetheart neckline that seems to look good on every woman was a distinctive style element from the 1940's and seemed to reinvent itself in decades thereafter. Check out Catherine Oxenberg, Heather Locklear, and Pamela Bellwood in the bottow row.  I can safely surmise that the 1980's ladies can get away with sporting a mullet-ized coiffure while wearing an evening gown.

St. John jacket seems like a hybrid of a halter dress with sweetheart neckline nd a bolero or shrug.  All this for just under $1,385.

This lady in red is dressed in a mistique suit from Ashro.com for $189.  I like the way the front princess seams lead into the front seams of the skirt. 

New Look 6867 caught my attention at Le Wal Marche. The jacket's flattering neckline was the highlight of this pattern.  After purchasing this with three other New Look patterns, I sewed it not too long after arriving home.

Uh-oh, totally 80's tunes are coming back with just the mention of Dynasty.


You make my SEAMS come true, ooh, ooh, ooh, ooh...

Pattern Description:
Unlined jacket with either 3/4 sleeves or pleated short sleeves and sleeveless dresses with shoulder strap options.


The pattern contains 17 pieces. For the jacket, I cut 4 of the fronts (2 were used later as interfaced facings), one of the center back, 2 of the side fronts, 2 of the side backs, and 2 sleeve pieces.

Pattern Sizing:

Misses' 8-18. I sewed a "12" at the shoulders and armscye, and a "14" at the sides.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes, except that my shirt/jacket is more loose fitting.

Fabric Used:


Polyester pin-striped fabric with some stretch from FashionistaFabrics.com. This fabric was left over from my Burda 129 waiscoat/vest from the September 2009 issue.

Your stitch, your stitch is on my list...

Favorite Features

*Sweetheart neckline with a raised or standing collar.

*Princess seams at the front and back.

*Short or 3/4 sleeve options

*Just as easy to construct as a princess-seamed shirt with front facings.



I can't SEW for that, no can do...

Not-so-favorite Features

*I concur with fellow PR sewists who worked with this pattern that the jacket runs larger than the usual sizing. I could have gone down a size. I can understand the jacket being loose to make allowance for wearing over certains tops or dresses.

* It would have been more practical to line the entire jacket. I probably would have taken about the same or less time if I included a lining instead of slipstitching or handstitching the front facings to the princess seams and slipstitching the lower hem.

* There is a slight bulk at the front armscye caused by the thickness of the fabric, and stitching together the front facing and sleeve with the armscye sandwiched in between the two layers.

Everytime you SEW away, you sew a piece of me with you...

Were the instructions easy to follow?

* The verbage, order of construction, and illustrations, were user friendly. The jacket, views D and E, occupied only the third and fourth pages of the entire set.

* Stitching the princess seams (side fronts to the fronts and side backs to the center back) was effortless due to the notches aligning nicely.

* Details such as stay-stitching along the neckline and clipping inset corners are included.

*The front sections are joined together to form a center back seam. The upper part of the front facings are attached to the back portion of the neckline, interrupted by a clipped corner and continues outwards to form the left and right shoulder seams and downards matching the edges of the armscyes and curving towards the center to form the princess seams with the side front pieces.

*The front facings are interfaced and joined at the center back the same way as the front sections. With right sides together, they are attached along the front edges and the upper edge of the collar and turned to the inside. I did a considerable amount of iron pressing, at the seams, especially at the neckline.

Say it isn't SEW...

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

* My usual adjustments:

   Folded a 1" petite adjustment at the designated line


  Shortened the upper back by 3/4" to minimize waves and rolls caused by excess fabric. Although I forgot to adjust the sleeves to account for the upper back adjustment, I did not take too much from the sleeve caps while setting them into the armholes.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I probably would sew this shirt/jacket again with the pleated short sleeves. I recommend this pattern for classic style and design and its simplicity in construction.

Conclusion:

Variations in fabric, buttons, trim, neckline, and sleeves make this pattern highly adaptable. The pattern for the dress also looks very promising.

This is a Terijon taffeta top retailing for $350. It is simple, yet elegant

Nanette Lepore's "Wistful" top has more depth and less width, but not a low pricetag.

A fellow sewist sent me "two more buttons" in good humor.  I originally intended to add two more buttons, but did not have enough of the same buttons to complete the look. Actually, the jacket looks better with five buttons.

Pink A Dilly

Tops and tunics in border prints are trending for this summer.  Here's is a Lucky Brand Jeans top from Macy's for $79.50

Pattern Description:

New Look 6964's vague description: "Misses' six sizes in one".

My description: Tops with sleeve and neck variations. View A has a wide V-neckline with encased ribbon tied at the center front and 3/4 sleeves with elasticized openings. View B has short flutter-like sleeves with the same neckline as view A. View C has the same neckline as A, except that it is sleeveless and the exposed portions of the ribbon tie acting as shoulder straps. Views D ad E are also sleeveless with variations of the ribbon shoulder straps and a horizontal neckline. View E has a ruffled front.

Pattern Sizing:

Misses' 6-16. I sewed a "12" at the neckline and armholes and a "14" at the sides. I found the top to run loose and could have gotten away with a "12" at the sides.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?For the most part, except I used a solid instead of a border print and my top came out shorter and baggier than what appears on the envelope, keeping in mind that my torso is vertically challenged. I suspect cinching the elastic more than I shouuld at the neckline (before stitching the ends closed), resulted in not only raising the neckline to a more modest level, but some bunching at the bust and hence, raising the front hemline.


Were the instructions easy to follow?

They and the accompanying illustrations together were fine. However, I changed the order of construction due to what I have been accustomed to do when constructing garments containing raglan sleeves. After sewing the center front and center back, I did not immediately stitch the side seams as instructed and the sleeve seams as directed. Instead, I sewed each sleeve to the corresponding front and back, much like sewing each flat, except that the top part of the sleeve forms the shoulder section joining the front and back sections of the bodice. Then I sewed the sleeve seams and sides as one continuous seam.

Favorite/Not-so-favorite Features

* I like the wide "V" neckline with a low (not the typical "Burda" low), but still modest neckline. But then the accetably low neckline could be the result of my use of elastic instead of a ribbon in the neckline casing.

*Simple to sew. For View A, there are only three pieces to work with: the front, back, and sleeve.

*I do like the 3/4 length sleeves, but they seem balloon or billow out more than what is pictured on the envelope. But maybe not quite as much as Spiegel's top from the summer of last year.

* In terms of construction, this top somewhat reminds me of New Look 6892, with the exceptions of having a lower neckline, center front and back seams, a keyhole opening at the center front, and uses a ribbon tie at the neckline instead of elastic.

* Has a more "boxy" fit and shorter lengthwise than New Look 6892.   Although I like the style of this top,  it is not figure flattering for me.

* After making my usual 3/4" inch petite adjustment at the line located between the bust and hips, I found that the back puffed a little at my waistline. Another 1" adjustment probably would solve that issue.

* I am not too fond of ribbon shoulder straps used for the sleeveless views. If I do make any of those views, I would replace them ties from the same fabric as the bodice.

*I added 1" to the length due to the pattern running shorter than expected.

Fabric Used:

Swiss-dotted lightweight cotton.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

*I sewed French seams at the center front and center back, sides, and sleeve seams. I joined the sleeves to the front and back in a traditional manner.

* Since I got carried away with the French seams, I inadvertently forgot to create the opening at the center front or the "keyhole" where the ends of the ribbon tie joined or enlaced. Instead I stitched the casing closed, which was tricky since it was a "V" instead of a "U" neckline.

*Replaced ribbon with 3/8" elastic for the neckline for more stability. I threaded the elastic with a safety pin through the neckline casing (starting and ending at the center back) formed by a 5/8" seam allowance at the hem. The directions called for a 3/8" allowance for the ribbon that is 5/8" wide.

*I cut on the bias a strip, approximately 21" in length and 1 1/2" width. I folded it in half right sides together, sewed it lengthwise 1/4" from the edge, turned it inside out, and tied bow which I tacked to the center front.

Conclusion:

If I make this again, I would go down a size, especially at the sides,  use a drapier fabric, and create the keyhole front.  This pattern is a nice and gratifying project to get me back to a routine of sewing again. It's a nice basic top for beginners to try.

I wish this top is wrinkle-free.


* I prefer the top I made two years ago using Simplicity pattern dated 1971.  The shorter sleeves and the gathered bottom are more flattering.

The O's-Zone Layer

Here's a 1970's pattern for a simple knit wrap dress or top. I made the knit top, but without the wrap option. I was conducting an experiment or "sew-periment" in making a non-wrap knit top from a wrap top/dress pattern.  I liked the side shaping and the unique center back shaping and wanted to discover how these details work with my figure before committing myself to the "wrap" style of this pattern.

Size 14, bust 36.  I used a polyester knit for my top.

I transformed the left and right bodice into one front piece, thus omitting the crossover and wrap detail.


From what I glanced, the directions seemed fine for the wrap top or dress. I did not really use them since I was creating something else. I retraced the front and back pieces onto tissue paper and made my usual adjustments.



I purchased this pattern from ebay due to its no-frills wrap style and that it would seem simple to sew. With the front left, front right, back, attached tie and sleeves to deal with, (top is cut from the pieces with length at the specified cutting lines), and a reliable method to finish the neckline, there should be little or no problem in putting this dress together. The only slight dislike is the long bell sleeves.





My  modifications:

*Transferred my usual adjustments to the pattern that I traced onto tissue paper (1" petite adjustment between the bust and hips, shorten the upper back by 3/4", and add 1/4" to the side seams)

* I cut the front as one piece along the center front of the bodice.

* I cut out a scoop neckline, instead of leaving it as a "v" shaped neckline.

*Borrowed the long sleeve piece from my Simplicity 6082

I plan to sew the wrap dress version of this pattern.

Based on the results of this "sew-periment" of creating a non-wrap top from a wrap dress/top pattern, I am satisfied with the top and would be more so with a few more changes. Next time, I would add another 2" to the length, raise the neckline an additional 1/2", and to take in further the upper side seams to reduce some bagginess under the arms and alongside the bust.  It would have made sense to account for this since I was used a pattern piece originally designed for a "wrap" style, silly me....

I have enjoyed the freedom of combining certain style elements from different patterns. I may get some pleasant and not-so-pleasant surprises from the results. After taking time to do these "sew-periments", I hope to achieve my goal of creating a TNT pattern.

Wrapped in a hug:

We wish you a Happy Mother's Day!