Circles du Sew-leil

My favorite designs from the October 2010 issue of Burda Style are patterns #118 (A/B) and #119.  I also like the jacket on the cover. 

Pattern #118, versions A and B:

Pattern #119, leather top.

Here are some blouses with certain style elements from style 118 A/B: front ties, scarf collars, short sleeves, pull-over style:

Zac Posen's striped silk blouse for $295 at Saks Fifth Avenue.  I like the double bow detail.

Neiman Marcus' cashmere top for $125

Marc Jacob's sketched plaid top for $298

I have not sewn with a Burda Style (formerly Burda Mode or Burda World of Fashion or BWOF) pattern for 7 months after working with any of the Big 4 due to their better directions and not having to trace amongst the more confusing network of lines on the Burda pattern "maps".  I also have not been inspired by recent issues of Burda.  Since the name change from BWOF to Burda Style, it seems that the styles have not been cutting edge or innovative.  Or maybe it is just me? Current Vogues, Simplicities, and even Buttericks have more interesting designs. I am also still hooked on vintage patterns. 

 
My description for 118, versions A and B:

Short-sleeved top with a scarf collar and a bow-tied front above a center slit at the neckline.

Burda's description:

"This short-sleeved plaid blouse may look demure... but it's irresistable with a saucy neck-slit peeping out below the bow-tied scarf collar!"

Pattern Sizing:

Misses' 36-44. I traced and cut a "38" at the shoulders and a "40" everywhere else.

After a day's wear, the fabric is holding up very well!



Pattern Pieces

*Main pattern pieces: front (cut on fold), back (cut on a fold), and sleeve.

* Things to measure (length and width of rectangular pieces) and cut on your own were the front slit facing, bias strip for neck edge, and the tie collar.

118, view B with the larger bow:

Fabric Used:
For my muslin or first version, I used a cotton woven from Fabrics.com called "Deer Valley Meadow Lace Persimmon" that I purchased 8 months ago on sale for $3.99/yard before applying a 30% discount code.  If you look closely at every pair of circles, there is a figure "8" or the infinity symbol.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Somewhat.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?


Likes

*Not difficult to put together. I think I spent more time deciphering the directions than actually sewing the top.


* I like that the top can be sewn with or without the bow tie front.  Pattern #119 ("leather top") actually uses the same main pattern pieces (front, back, sleeve).

*The gathered neckline with its center front keyhole/slit and its bias finished edge.

*The retro style

Dislikes

* Now that Burda's patterns are in one instead of two inserts, I experienced some challenges in delineating the pattern pieces on the more convoluted Burda "map". I confess that I traced a back piece from another style because it was more conspicuous to me!

*The directions were either not well written (or not translated well to English).

*The top turned out like a sack sewn exactly as traced. I took in the seams an additional 3/8" with more shaping at the waist. It still looks like a sack, but a slightly different one.

*Some bunching at the bust which I attribute to the gathering at the neckline.  Maybe bust darts or another adjustment would do the trick to add more shaping.  With 118A's model "covering" her front with a record sleeve and 118B's model sitting in a slump with the leather top (the bust front is quite wrinkled), it's really hard to see the actual details. Maybe Burda intentionally does this to "mask" some imperfections of their garments!

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Honestly, not very much that I strayed somewhere and had to re-do the scarf collar portion because of my silly errors. Sometimes I have a tendency to make something that is easy by common sense, difficult that I laugh at myself later about it.

For a dot and a half level in difficulty or what seemed to be one of the easiest projects in this magazine, I found the instructions to be muddled and cryptic or simply poorly written or translated. I re-read them a few times in order to comprehend the essential steps. Maybe re-reading them added more to my confusion!


Satisfactory Sections

I thought the directions for the center front slit with facing and attaching the bias strip to be satisfactory. If you have sewn garments with these details, then rely on your experience and treat the steps as guidelines.

Collar, are you there?
As for attaching the scarf collar for view "A" which is applicable for the "wide plaid wool crepe", here are Burda's directions: "Fold tie collar in half and mark centre back. Pin shorter lengthwise edge of collar to back neck edge matching centre backs-collar points up and edge of collar lies over seam of neck edge. Stitch edge of collar in place, from shoulder seam to shoulder seam, stitching 5mm from edge."   My first response was "huh"?  Then there seemed to be something missing for the rest of view "A".  Then I looked again at the schematic for view "A" and noted that the tie ends were "unfinished".  So I proceeded to do things "my way."  It did not occur to look at the directions for View B, inflexible person that I am at times...


What a Difference a Day Makes...

I agree with you Dinah Washington!

24 hours later, I figured out how the tie fronts relate to the neckline (what a difference a day makes!). This is not the first time that solutions randomly arrive in my thoughts when I was not at the task at hand. I wonder if it was the subconscious dominating the conscious at the time. After work, I read the collar directions for View B and although they were awkwardly worded, I had a better concept of what to do to rectify my errors when attaching the scarf collar with the ties.

For many of the fabrics, I wish Burda would recommend using the directions for View B because the tops are identical in styling all except that View B has the longer and much wider front bow. The ties were supposed to suspend from the shoulder seams, while being detached from the rest of the neckline (the edge from the shoulder seams to the front center slit). Now it makes sense that the center slit or keyhole neckline is held together by a button and a loophole.




Learn By Un-Doing
I used my handy-dandy seam ripper to remove what I call my "over-eager overstitching" or in this case, sewing the collar portion beyond the start and stop points which were the left and right shoulder seams.

I turned in the tie ends to get them to be temporarily inside, safely tucked in, so that I can turn an adequate portion of the ties inside out and add a few inches of stitches to extend the inner seam of the front ties, stopping as close as possible to the shoulders seams, before turning the tie portions inside out. To close any gaps nearing the shoulder seams, I turned the ties inside out and topstitched (tiny handstitching or slip stitching will do) near the edge.


Now, I do recollect doing something similar to tops that I had sewn in the past such as those from the late 90's.  Next time, I will use these steps to create and attach the scarf collar with the front ties.

(1) Mark the location of the center back and shoulder seams onto the scarf collar/ties, fold the scarf collar in half, right sides together.

(2) Sew the seam of the tie ends up to the shoulder seams.

(3) After turning the tie ends right side out, pin the lower edge of the scarf (non-facing edge) at the back (right sides together) and stitch accordingly. Then I would fold under the raw edge of the upper or facing edge of the collar (up to the seam allowance) and either topstitch or handstitch very close to the neckline seams.

Pattern alternations/modfications
* Shorten the upper back 3/4". I adjusted the sleeves accordingly with a horizontal fold across the pattern.

* The length of my center slit was 5 1/2", which worked for me. There was no mention of the length of the center slit. I finished the edges of the facing, even it was not mentioned in the directions.

*Ended up taking out the extra hem allowance I added and then an additional 1". The top is still fairly long, but I left it for a "tunic" style.

*As a personal style preference, I inserted 1/4" wide elastic with circumference 2" larger than that of my upper arm through the casing formed by the sleeve hems (elasticized casing). I ended up shortening the elastic 1" after sewing its ends together before stitching the hem of the casing closed.

*I used a 2" of 1/4" elastic for the buttonhole loop for the top of the center front slit. It would have been better to use a 1/8" due to the size of my button.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes with more fabric that I just found in my stash. I would still recommend this pattern. It is a good idea to make a muslin.




Conclusion:

Maybe after a few more alterations, I will like the top even better!

"Tie After Tie"

Zee Braffe

Three weeks ago at my local JoAnn's, I was persuaded to purchase this pattern after seeing the nice dresses reviewed on PR. 

Pattern Description:

Misses' Dress: Close-fitting dresses A, B, C have wrap fronts, front tucks, front and back pleats, self-ties, A-line skirt and sleeve variations. View A has the short flounce sleeves. View B has the three-quarter length sleeves. View C has the long flared sleeves and border print.

Sizing:  Misses' 8-10-12-14. I sewed a "12" at the shoulders, armscyes, and a "14" at the bodice and skirt fronts and back.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, I did not experience any problems. I thought the illustrations spoke for themselves.

Fabric Used:

From my local Yardage Town during a local sewing meetup, a slinky type knit. Because it is slightly slippery, it can be tricky to sew with.

Here's my zebra-giraffe printed dress, about 1.5% the price of a Madagascar wrap dress ($1,295) by Cavalli.
Favorite Features

* This is a nice alternative to the DVF wrap dress and the popular Vogue 8379 wrap dress pattern.

* Flounced sleeves

* Fairly easy to sew


Not So Favorite Features

However, coupled with slinky type knit or possibly a ITY knit and the bodice being cut on the bias, I encountered a low and unstable neckline after topstitching. Fortunately I had some 1/4" wide elastic that I stretched and stitched onto the upper edge of the neckline from the inside. Then I turned the neckline inwards, encasing the elastic and topstitched using a straight straight stitch. Result: no floppy neckline!

Even the neckline of Cavalli's "Madagscar" is low and somewhat floppy!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
* I cut the front left and right bodices separately to match the necklines as much as possible.

*I sewed the sleeves (flat) onto the armscyes before sewing the sleeve seams and side seams of the bodice.

*Added elastic to the neckline to eliminate the dreaded gaposis.

*Shortened the skirt length 2 1/2".

* My usual upper back adjustment (shorten 3/4") to remove excess fabric below my shoulders.

*I took in the skirt by increasing the width of the pleats (two in the back, one on each of the fronts). I could have used a "12" instead of the "14" for the skirt pieces.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

After my first experience with this pattern, I would definitely try it again. I would recommend this pattern to others. Things to watch out for are the length of the bodice, neckline depth/gaposis, and going down a size due to the potential extra ease in the waist and the skirt. Following my instinct, I did not perform my usual petite adjustment at the waistline. So if you have a long torso, be on the lookout for the length of the bodice.

Conclusion:
The smiles say it all!

Trick-Quoise Treat

After visiting several stores whose names end in "t" and a neighborhood Halloween costume shop (temporarily converted from a former Hollywood Video store), I was not satisfied with the costumes we saw (wobbly stitches, frayed seams, flimsy fabrics, not age-appropriate,...). They were already falling apart on the hanger before being purchased. Even my daughter's beloved Snow White costume that I sewed for her 5 years ago, survived a night of trick of treating when she was three years old (fairly large on her at that time), a Kindergarten costume parade, and a storybook character theme day months later. Still it is hanging in her closet as a precious keepsake.

Target rattled my nerves  with a commercial that wants people to trash their homemade costumes in favor of their mass-produced costumes, or what unoriginal and not necessarily high quality.

Article and YouTube video of mom with son and his DIY Iron Man costume.

So, despite what little time I have between then and Halloween, I wholeheartedly and willfully decided to sew my daughter's costume as in years past.  My daughter decided on being a genie for Halloween.  After showing her several current and out of print patterns (etsy, ebay), she preferred Simplicity 3626. My only reservation was the length of the bodice.

I was not fond of current genie costumes for Heather's age group.  It does not make sense for young ladies to show their tummies during trick or treating.

A Bratz genie costume.

A "Mystical Genie" costume that I saw at Amazon.com.

These are what we purchased two weeks ago at JoAnn's.  Heather chose the turquoise stretch velour fabric and gold sequined trim.  I found two Buttericks to update my wardrobe sometime soon, I hope.



One week prior to the above purchases, I was not able to find Simplicity 3626 genie costumes pattern at JoAnn's during its Simplicity 99 cents sale.  So I purchased this pattern at WalMarche a few days ago, for just under $9... 

Pattern Description:

Child's, Girls' and misses' genie costumes.

Pattern Sizing:


Child: 2, 3, and 4 only. Girls': 8, 10, 12 only

Misses': 10, 12, 14 and 16 only.

I sewed an "8" for my 7-year-old daughter.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Not much. Instead, I created a less flamboyant, or rather conservative genie costume. Heather wore her "peace sign" scarf due to the slightly chilly evening and being slightly under the weather instead of her usual bubbly self.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

If you have sewn tops, pants, and so on, then they seemed straightforward. If I included the overlays for the top and the pants, then I would have to follow those directions more carefully, due to certain pivot points.



What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Overall, I liked the pattern much better when I omitted the organza overlays for the pants and the sleeves. Cutting the fabric pieces (upper bodice front, upper bodice back, lower bodice front, lower bodice back and their corresponding lining pieces in the same fabric, sleeves, shoulder straps, front and back yokes of pants with facings, and fronts and backs of pants) took one evening. During the next two consecutive days, I sewed the bodice, added the trim, and the pants. The pattern the way I sewed it came together fairly easy. Things to watch out for are the length of the shoulder straps and the puffiness of the sleeves (not as pictured).


If I had included the overlays, that would have been a different story. If you are pressed for time as I was, I would skip the overlays for the pants and the top. Knowing my limitations, it would seem as if I would be sewing two costumes at the same time.

Fabric Used:

Velour knit and Simplicity's sequined trim from JA's. Instead of lining fabric, I used the same fabric to self-line the bodice.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

* I used a lightweight velour knit instead of a woven.

* I lengthened the lower part of the bodice for modesty.

* Omitted the back zipper for the top and the size zipper for the pants since I used a knit. My daughter did not have difficulty slipping in or out of the outfit.

* Omitted the lower sleeve elastic and the lower pant elastic at the ankles. Heather preferred the sleeve "flounce" and the flared pants, which I think would have been more suited for a "70's" themed costume.

*Omitted the organza overlays due to time constraints.

* I shortened the length by 4", which should have been only 3".

* Took in the shoulder straps an additional 3".

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?I might sew it again when the occasion arises. I would still recommend it to others. I see endless possibilities beyond the genie costumes!

Conclusion:

This is a still a satisfactory pattern. Despite feeling a little under the weather, Heather wore her costume to my parents' home and we were able to visit do a very brief trick or treat venture in their neighborhood.

Four years ago:

Heather, 3 years old  wearing her Snow White costume.  This is the first costume that I sewed for her.  I used a McCall's pattern.

 Three years ago:

Heather, 4 years old, as The Little Mermaid.  I used McCall's 5498.

Heather, 5 years old as a Fairy Princess

McCall's 5496

Heather as Wonder Girl last year.  I used McCall's 4113 and drafted an eagle from scratch.

Heather, ready for trick or treating again. in an outfit as comfortable as a pair of pj's.

Pattern-al Instincts

Just before noon, I met up with some ladies for some fabric browsing at our local Yardage Town in San Diego.  It is situated at a corner of  a little L-shaped shopping strip mall consisting of specialty shops, a karate school, and small restaurants, just off a freeway exit.   Some drizzle did not preclude six of us from meeting at the front of the fabric store.  Michelle (aka "michelle74" from Pattern Review) first arrived and as always, she can brighten anybody's day with her beautiful smile.  I have not seen Michelle in 3 years since fabric shopping at the Yardage Town closest to my home. It was nice to chat about our experiences with patterns such as Burda WOF (tracing can be a challenge), fitting, sewing for family, and more.

Allison ("AllisonSews"), Atasha, Susan ("KnittersDelight") and Susan's adorable mom visiting from Vermont, also joined us at the front of the store.   There was something familiar about Michelle's cute knit top and Allison's breezy top, but I could not exactly pinpoint where I have originally seen them.  Their tops looked really stylish, even more stylish than RTW or off the rack. 

I told Susan that it was a pleasant surprise to find out through her blog that she is expecting a little girl. It is interesting how news travels to people nowadays. Also she looked snazzy in her pink cowl top. There was something uniquely special about the top, and again I was not able to pinpoint why.

From left to right:  Atasha, Michelle, Allison, Susan, and her mom.

Before Atasha, Allison, and Susan arrived to meet us at the front of the store, Michelle mentioned that her top was from Butterick (5522).  It really looked lovely in person, even better than what I see in many stores. She was not satisfied with it as a dress and transformed it into a top.  I  told her that because her top looked really nice, I would not think that it came from a sewing pattern.



Allison's top came from Simplicity 3535.  There were many nice tops made with this pattern that I saw in PR. 

However, the top I made three years ago made me look frumpy.  I recently donated it to charity.

Although this Yardage Town (about a half an hour drive from my home) is not as large as the two stores closer to my home, its selection is still impressive.  To the left, not far from the entrace, were the discontinued patterns ($1.98 each).  I quickly looked at the tables of patterns and had to turn my head the other way and wandered around the bolts of fabric.  By the store's entrace were Halloween specialty fabric, slinky knits with animal print, and knits with abstract print.  I also saw some linen, quilting cottons, stretch velour, bottom-weight fabrics, fleece, charmeuse, and a decent selection of trim.  When I turned my head to eye the clearance patterns table, I saw Susan and her mom poring through envelopes, and I thought Susan would resist the temptation of purchasing more patterns.  Hmmmmm.

Michelle and I were still empty handed.   Just thinking about the stacks of fabric that I have not yet sewn up, helped me resist the temptation to buy.   Allison was holding some fake fur for a vest and I already saw Atasha with some fabric.  Before heading to the cutting table, we congregated at the table that had pattern catalogues (adjacent to the clearance patterns) and had a very pleasant time randomly chatting about our sewing experiences, especially where fitting is concerned, fashion inspirations, and future projects.  Susan's baby will be due mid-December and she still looks gorgeous.   I told her that she will have so much fun sewing for her little girl.  She and her mom were happily going through the pages of patterns, admiring the styles for little girls. 

Susan mentioned that she had made her top and had purchased the fabric from this store.  Now it's all coming back to me now.  She sewed and reviewed  Vogue 8597 last year.

I did not leave empty handed.  I purchased 2 1/4 yards of what I call "Zebraffe" fabric, 2 zippers, and a Simplicity pattern on clearance all for $22.79.  The fabric regularly sold for $8.98 a yard and with its advertised discount of  30%, it came to $6.28 a yard.  It seems to be a soft, yet stable knit.  I have not yet decided what to do with this "wild" fabric.  This jacket of this pattern is suited for sheer fabrics, and both the top and skirt are suited for knits.   If I sew the jacket, I will use a drapy knit and one size smaller. 

On a positive note, I have noticed that my sewing purchases have been gradually decreasing.  Last week, for under $35, at JoAnn's,  I purchased some stretch velour, sheer chiffon, and gold trim (I was surprised that this was from Simplicity) for Heather's genie costume and two Butterick patterns.  I was not able to fight off some PA (pattern addiction).  This what happens after reading about the successes with certain patterns on  PR. 

I am still on the hunt for Simplicity 3626, the genie costume for girls and misses, which was not in stock when I checked during the most recent Simplicity sale.

Maybe it will be more sensible to follow Atasha's lead and draft my own pattern.  Atasha  prefers her self-drafted patterns over commercial ones.   If you ever see the precious outfits she sews for her little girls, you would not believe that she has been sewing for only a few years.

Michelle was good. She left empty-handed, but still smiling!

It was very nice to meet Michelle again, and Allison, Atasha, and Susan for the first time.  This is the second time that I got together with people who enjoy sewing and wish that there were more opportunities.  Sewing is a foreign activity with almost everybody I know, and it seems that as populous as the county of San Diego is there should be a fairly visible sewing community.  I have been discovering that scrapbooking, beer-drinking, baseball, and football, and other non-creative activities seem to be the norm.  At least there is a wonderful portion of the PR community that also exists in my neighborhood.  

Status of Leopard-y

Several weeks ago, Heather requested that I sew her a new Jalie 2788 twist top from a knit printed with leopard spots.  I promised to sew her one once the fall vacation from school starts.  It has been two months since my most recent sewing project.  My sewing "mojo" is slowly returning.  Now into the second week of our "stay-cation" from school (school resumes in a few days), I found the time (and the mysterious productive energy) to re-trace the pattern in Heather's new size, cut out the pattern pieces, and sewing the pieces together in fewer than two hours.  Now that I think about it, I could have made her more tops if I did not forget how quickly the Jalie twist sews up.

Once I gave Heather her new top, she was very ecstatic that she immediately wore it!  Her sweet response inspired me to get jump back on the sewing bandwagon.

This is the same palm tree ("Ferna") that we pose next to for photo ops.  Here is Heather (wearing a Simplicity dress) and "Ferna" three years ago.

.

I wanted to sew a new top for myself from the same leopard print fabric as Heather's top.   I did not feel like browsing through pages of my most recent Burda WOF magazines and tracing pattern lines.

Instead I sifted through a stack of pattern envelopes and found this uncut pattern dated 2007.  Oh no!  The models are the girls from "The Hills", Lauren, Audrina, and Heidi (before more transformations)! With the popularity of Project Runway, I would not be surprised if they come out with their own line of patterns following the cancellation of their show this year.

I think I purchased this out-of-print pattern from ebay.  I recall that I was immediately intimidated to sew this after seeing the number of pieces (more that what I expected) in the cutting layout for what seemed  to be very simple tops to sew.  When I revisited this pattern just recently, I realize that I could omit the front and back facings and topstitch the hems along the neckline. Since there were mixed reviews of this pattern in PR, I was still uncertain as to whether I should start cutting out the pattern.  "Nothing ventured, nothing gained" comes to mind.  So, I gathered confidence and boarded B5084 with a destination of at least a decent knit top in mind.

Pattern Description:
From 2007, here are knit tops with neckline and long sleeve variations. Views A and B have the crossover front and pleated upper bodice I sewed view B, but not with the bell shaped sleeves a la Stevie Nicks.
                                                                                   

                                                                 

I did not know that these MTV reality stars existed until this year, which coincided with the series finale.  Not surprisingly, this show makes Desperate Housewives and Melrose Place geared for the intellectual.  Pictured from left to right from their first season (2006) on "The Hills" are Heidi, Audrina (top), Lauren, and Whitney. Heidi looked naturally pretty here before looking like Barbie.

 The style that closely resembles view B of the Butterick pattern, is the upper portion of a Sans Souci dress from the Tommy Bahama website. The dress and top versions have the illusion of having empire seams. However, upon closer inspection they do not, and the pleats or ruching extend below the waistline, drape gently across the upper portion of the abdomen, forming a faux wrap style. From a distance, the pleats seem to be concentrated just below the bust line where the empire seam would start.

Surplice top, TommyBahama.com, $98

Pattern Sizing:

I sewed a 12 at the shoulders and a "14" elsewhere.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Fabric Used:

Poly knit with nylon characteristics from Emma One Sock. Although the fabric is slightly slippery with my sewing machine, it remains resilient and retrains its stretch after the stitches.

Were the instructions of the pattern easy to follow?

Although I did not use them, they look fine, especially if you prefer to use the front and back facings. Reading earlier reviews (and also the comments from fellow PRers ;-)) of this pattern were very helpful.



Favorite Features

* Simple to sew, especially if you omit the facings and the banded neckline from view A. I had the pieces pre-cut the previous evening. With all my changes and fidgeting with the upper bodice, I was still able to complete the entire top one entire morning.
* Square neck and v-neck options

* Contoured fit.  The distinct inward curves are apparent on the lower skirt portions.


Not-so-favorite Features

*The front and back facings along with finishing the hems seem "dated" now that there are sleeker ways to finish the neckline (coverstitch, serger, using elastic or stay tape before topstitching)
*After attaching the lower skirt (after adjustment), the length is still long for me.

*The neckline is very low (a la mode de Burda).

*Although the front pleats below the crossover portion were easy to make, I did not like the way they draped horizontally across my chest. Maybe it is simply an issue of style. I would rather wear the ruching or pleats nicely distributed across my abdominal area, as in a crossover faux wrap top. The pleats in the upper bodice also seemed to contribute to the sinking neckline.

 *I found the pattern form fitting than expected. 



Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

* Made a 1" petite adjustment at the waistline

* I shortened the upper back 3/4"

* Folded 1/8" of the raw edge under, pin, and topstitch with a narrow wavy stitch while gently stretching the fabric beneath the presser foot (works better than my current machine's stretch stitches).

*Since, I did not want to break up the layout of the shirt the shirt, I eliminated the back horizontal seam formed by the upper bodice and the lower skirt, by cutting the back as one piece as if the upper bodice merged with the lower back into into one big piece. For future reference,  I traced the silhouette of the composite back, onto tissue paper.

* Since I discovered there was quite a bit of ease at the sleeve caps, I took out a maximum of 3/4" from the top, tapering to 0" at the ends.

* I added slightly flounced cuffs (3 1/2" wide and 1" longer than the edge of the sleeve, past my upper arm). I lettuced edge a narrow 1/8" hem of the cuffs using closely spaced zig-zag stitches.

* As a quick fix, I secured the center front with a few little "invisible" stitches, which serve the purpose of raising and stabilizing the neckline (if they do not come come undone...). Because I was still not satisfied with the look of those pleats, I audaciously separated the front bodice from the lower front skirt and even undid the the basted pleats (seam ripper does come in handy in desperate situations). Now I got my mind singing the chorus of Carrie Underwood's catchy hit single, "Undo It".

Then I lapped the right over the front, basted their edges (above the zig zag cut edges, below the original pleats were located). and with a slight stretch, I re-attached the entire front bodice to the lower front skirt. Then just what I predicted, the neckline was noticebly raised to a wearable depth! I really did not need to pleat the bodice in the first place, because now I could see that the overlapped bodice piece "naturally" formed its own pleats or ruching over the seam line.



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Having also traced the front as one entire piece with a modified neckline , I would use my modified pattern pieces (front, back, sleeve) for a future top. I am still not satisfied with the pleating across the upper front bodice. If you have this pattern in your stash, I suggest making a muslin first to to determine style and fit compatibiity. Although it is currently out of print and now selling at suggested retail at the Butterick website, you probably could purchase it at popular auction websites.


Conclusion:

It's a good idea to make a muslin to determine the fit of the the bodice, especially for views A and B.

A week of record breaking desert temperatures are followed by precipitation, cooler temperatures and overcast in Southern California.



I was surprised that animal prints are still trending after doing some "snoop shopping" on the internet.  So, I have Heather to thank for reminding me about the leopard printed fabric that has started to age in my fabric stash. Note the price on the Blumarine knit dress...

Abbey Sewed

I sewed this top during the fall of last year and decided to review it now to coincide with the recent DVD release of "The 4 Complete Ed Sullivan Shows Starring The Beatles".

Pattern Description:

"Misses'/misses' petite top and skirt: semi-fitted top has shawl-like collar, front button and buttonhole closings. A: sleeveless, tie ends. B: short sleeves. C" two-piece short sleeves with drawstrings. B, C purchased belt. Slightly flared or flared gored skirt, below mid-knee or lower calf has waistband, front button and buttonhole closings."

I sewed a combination of views A and B: I sewed the short-sleeved version B using the ties from the sleeveless version A.

Pattern Sizing:

Misses' 8-10-12-14.

Fabric Used:

Printed themed cotton from fabric.com.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?In terms of the style, yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
From what I recollect, I was able to follow them without a fussin' or a fightin', my friend. Shawl collars are simple to sew, after having sewn a few. The fronts are joined at a seam forning the center back and from past experience, it is essential to clip as instructed (the corners of the front and the curves at the neck edges), and to carefully stitch the collar to the neck edge, pivoting at the marked circles.

If you are familiar with sewing shirts and blouses, the instructions close with steps for stitching the interfaced front facings and finishing the lower edge. I did not follow Butterick's hemming procedure of basting close to the fold, stitching 1/4" from the raw edge, adjusting fullness, and so on. It would seem wise to use a method that you deem appropriate, especially with the fabric you use. I was able to turn under the raw edge, press and stitch a 5/8" hem.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Likes

*Simplicity of construction

*Shawl collar

*Sleeve/sleeveless options

*Vertical darts for shaping

*Tie belt

My likes outweigh my few "dislikes" which I could easily fix:

*Decreasing my petite adjustment at the waist
*Lowering the placement of the tie belt.
*Borrowing a pleated sleeve style (to add a slight 'puff') from another pattern.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I performed my usual petite adjustments at the upper back and the waistline (1"). After wearing the top several times, I would have felt more comfortable adding 1" to the length and lowering the location of the belt a tad.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes! I wish I had sewn this pattern sooner. If you have this pattern, have a leap of faith and give it a sew. Have you had surprisingly pleasant experiences with patterns after having them sit in your stash for some time?


Conclusion
This pattern has some features in common with Kwik Sew 3620 such as the tie front and shawl collar.

I wish there are Eight days a week so I can find more time to sew. (This song is now one of our favorite car "sing-alongs". I hope you also enjoy a lovely compilation of rare photos in this video. )