Cowl-lifornia Girls

The draped cowl neck caught my attention when I purchased this pattern.  After my slight disappointment with my first version of this pattern several months ago, I decided to give it another try.

From 2004: "Misses/misses' petite top and belt: Unlined, loosefitting, below waist, pullover top has cowl-neck A, B: sleeveless. C, D: short sleeve. E: long bell sleeves. D, E: side seam slits.  B: self belt."  The front and back pieces are cut on the bias.

I sewed the "C" view with the flutter short sleeves, but with the longer length from either view "B" or "E".

Pattern Sizing:
8-10-12    I sewed a "12".

Fabric Used:
Cotton/rayon jersey from fabric.com

Favorite Features
*I liked the draped/cowl neck style and the sleeve options.

A Chadwick's cowl shell

Ann Taylor Loft's cowl shell

* The directions were satisfactory. When I made my second top from this pattern, I barely glanced at them due to a few modifications.
* I liked that it was much more easier especially after making the first version and discovering some "rough" spots along the way. After my disappointment with my first version that I made months ago, I decided to give this pattern another try.

* For my first version when cutting the front piece, I did not include the "extended" front facing that was to be folded inward along the marked horizontal line and the reinforced (with backstitching) clipped corners. I replaced the front facing with a topstitched narrow hem.

*For the second version, I included the extended front facing, which I prefer over my "non-faced" original.

*I only disliked the back facing and the original construction of the flutter short sleeves.  

Pattern modifications/alterations:
*I performed my usual petite adjustments on the upper back (3/4") and at the waistline (1").

* To narrow the upper back, I folded in 1" from the center back, for my second version.

* I lengthened each of the short flutter sleeve 1 centimeter and still found it short. Next time, I will lengthen each sleeve a full inch (approximately 2.54 cm).

* Since I was not using the back facing, I let the upper edge of the back neckline, extend approximately 5/8" past the short shoulder seam formed by the junction of the front piece (having self-facing that was folded inward) and the back piece. To avoid the back facing, I topstitched a narrow hem at the back neckline between the shoulder seams.

*I self-faced each sleeve to avoid the visibility of a "narrow" hem when the sleeves flop about. I cut an additional pair of the sleeves and sewed each facing to the lower edge of its corresponding sleeve, right sides together. After trimming the seams and "clipping" at the curves of the seam, I turned each sleeve with the facing inside out and pressed the lower edge. I machine basted the upper edges before sewing them to the armscyes.

*I sewed the sleeves in "flat" instead of setting them in per the directions. Or, I sewed the sleeves to the armscyes before sewing a little corner of the sleeve seam and the entire side seams of the entire top.



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I still would recommend this top. Even though this pattern originally came out 7 years ago, the draped front has been a classic and timeless style feature. This neckline has received more attention and interest after Pippa Middleton created a media sensation with her bridesmaid gown.

Also it was mentioned that Cameron Diaz wore the red carpet version of McQueen's dress at 2010's Golden Globes award. I liked Cameron's red dress that I snapped a pic of her in it during the show.

The neckline of the dresses worn by Pippa and Cameron reminds me of views E or F of Simplicity 3682 that I sewed 4 years ago.

Conclusion:
There are probably "better" patterns with a similar style to Butterick 4132.  This pattern is a keeper for now.

More draped/cowl tops

From Ann Taylor Loft:

From Chadwick's:

The Streisand Vee-fect

I purchased this 47-year-old pattern year from etsy last year because I liked the blouse with the "Chelsea" collar, the middle view.   The model on the lower left attired in a nautical top reminds me of a young Barbra Streisand in her blue iconic sailor dress that she wore in her first television special for CBS.  She will be having her 69th birthday on April 24.

1964's memorable musical chart-toppers that include "My Girl" by the Temptations, "A Hard Day's Night" by the Beatles, "Hello Dolly" by Louis Armstrong, "Dancing in the Street" by Martha and the Vandellas, "Where Did Our Love Go" by the Supremes, "Oh Pretty Woman" by Roy Orbison, and "People" by Barbra Streisand showcased the diversity of talent in popular music that is rarely matched or surpassed by current performers.

Barbra, the Singer, and SINGER, the Sewing Company?
Singer, the sewing machine company, sponsored this extraordinary "singer's" TV special in "1973, " Barbra Streisand... and Other Musical Instruments". It was reported that "Singer would honor Barbra with a gold sewing machine!"

More information about the "Barbra Streisand... and Other Musical Instruments" TV special.

Pattern Description:

From 1964, "Misses Set of Blouses with Tie:  Blouse features a V neckline, front button closing and set-in sleeves.  Views 1,2,3 long sleeves gather to button cuffs.  Views 1 and 2 collars are styled the same but View 1 is wider and trimmed with abow.  Views 2 and 3 have contrasting ties.  view 3 sailor collar and cuffs are detailed with braid.  view 4 neck edge and below elbow length sleeves feature ruffles.  view 5 has tie collar and roll up sleeves. 

I sewed View 1, the middle view, or the blouse with the "Chelsea" collar that was popular in the 1960's and 1970's with a resurgence in the 1980's.

I was initially dubious about working with a collar cut on the bias. If it was cut on the straight grain, I would have had more of a challenge to distribute the collar evenly along the neckline.

I sewed view 1, with the intention of the cuffed long sleeves, but due to a fabric deficit, I shortened the sleeves. 

Size:

Miss size 14, bust 34.   The sizing is not coherent with a current patttern size 14.  However, I discovered that I did not need to increase the width at the bust and hips. 

The blouses illustrated on the pattern envelope seem also to be inspired by Barbra's 1963 performance at the Hollywood Bowl and at the Cocoanut Grove (interesting spelling of coconut).

Back of envelope:

My version is a fuse of the pattern's styles with tie-dye printed fabric.

"The Prints of Tie-Dyes"

Fabric Used:

A pre-laundered mystery cotton woven from W-M for $3 a yard.  I wish that I had strategically placed the pattern on the print to reduce the "bullseye" or "headlight" effect... 

Favorite Features

* Several collar options:"Chelsea" (pointed lapels), ruflle, nautical, neck tie/bow

* Fairly simple to sew, except for fiddling with the attachment of the front/back facings after the collar.

Other Features

* No shaping at sides

* Collar with front and back facings are outdated. A lining would have seemed more practical.

* Although I liked the style, I was a bit overwhelmed by collar size coupled with my fabric choice. Decreasing the width of the collar to complement my frame and using a fabric with more drape would make this top more ideal for me.

 

Modifications

* Took in the side seams an additional 1/4". I could have adhered to the original size instead of adding an additional seam allowance.

* Shortened the sleeves and elasticized the hems.

* I was not sure as to whether or not to perform my usual petite adjustments (upper back and between the bust and waist).  There were previous instances when I made those adjustments and wish I had not.   In this case, I should have adjusted the pattern.

Just after seeing the entertaining and cute "Rio" at a local movie theater with my daughter:

Directions: They are detailed and formatted conveniently to fit on one sheet, double sided! I really did not need the directions, except for the process for attaching the front and back facings.  I'll let the photos speak for themselves.

Pattern Layouts:

Directions:

Collar, cut on the bias, (prior to folding right sides together, stitched right sides together, and turned inside out)

The tricky part was sandwiching the small front facing between the folded front facing and the sleeve. I found the illustration somewhat vague in the placement  of the front facings, collar, and central neckline, with respect to each other.  I continuously turned over the collar and facings to ensure that the "pointed" portion of the small front facing  (originally a separate piece) does not protrude or become visible when worn.  Then I had to "scoot" the upper edge of the small front facing until it surpasses the central front edge of the neckline.  Also in order for the pieces to align nicely, I had to deepen the scoop of the neckine an additional  3/8" while sewing through all the layers.  Hence, the neckline of the center front then looked on par with those on the pattern envelope.

Here is a picture after sewing the layers of the necklne, collar, and facings: 

Without the bow:

Overall Evaluation:

If you enjoy working with retro/vintage patterns , I would recommend this pattern based on the nicely presented directions while being attentive to the sizing, fit, and the construction of the collar and facings.  Due to time constraints and other patterns waiting in the wings,  I probably will not use this pattern again. 

"Her Name is Barbra" auction with clothing/accessories from her movies.

Plaid Row-mance

I really like the February 2011 of Burda Style.  There are several enticing looking styles, but I do not have the time and patience to trace even a simple pattern due to sifting through the convoluted network of lines.  But there is one pattern that I highly recommend if you have this issue.

Pattern Description:

A fitted stretch jersey top.

Pattern Sizing:

34-36-38-40-42. I sewed my typical 38" at the shoulders and "40" elsewhere. With the knit that I was using, I should have increased a size.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Somewhat.

Fabric Used:
Lady Ga-Gargyle

Remaining argyle-printed cotton jersey from EmmaOneSock.com that I originally used for Heather's Simplicity3811 top.

Argyles on the runway for fall 2011, Alberta Ferreiri

Were the instructions easy to follow?
It Was Sewn This Way, Sewn This Way...
Because this top consisted of only a front, back, and sleeves, I did not use them. The directions contain the barebone or minimal steps, except for the step that details the application of the neck bias binding, which was confusing due to the choice of words, or the meaning got lost in translation. I recommend replacing Burda's method with your reliable method to finish the neckline.

Thumbs Up
* I like that it was easy to sew (especially if you have a serger), especially if you replace the bias neck binding with a topstitched hem.

*Versatile pattern with superb potential for personal neckline, sleeve, and embellishment options.


Wavering Thumbs
* Often I learn something AFTER the fact. I should have added a little more to the width of the shoulders and upper chest when I lowered the neckline by snipping away at the neckline (something I rarely due to the typically low neckline depth of Burda blouses). I also should have further stabilized the lower hem due to the fabric I was using.

* i agree with other fellow PR'ers of this pattern. Certain fabrics will affect the fit of this top. With a drapier knit (i.e. poly knits), I would use my typical Burda size and with a cotton knit, I would use one size larger.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
*One of those rare instances where I lowered the neckline on a Burda pattern. To add an illusion of neck length, I scooped approximately 1 3/4" from the center, tapering to 0" before the shoulder seam.

*Made my usual 1" petite adjustments between the waist and bust

*Lengthened the sleeve 1". My arms are designed for a woman that is 5'5" tall.

*Shortened the upper back 1/2"

*Replaced the bias binding at the neckline with a decorative topstitched hem.

*Instead of "setting-in" the sleeves, I sewed the sleeves in flat or stitched it to the armscye prior to sewing the sleeve seams and side seams as one continuous seam.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes after a few more alterations. I recommend this pattern due to being a nice basic knit top pattern and also feel free to experiment with different types of knit to discover the fit you want to achieve.

Conclusion:
This pattern seems like the easiest pattern from this issue to trace, cut, and sew! Maybe it's time to purchase a serger....

Olive-ia Newton-Frond

 I sewed the jacket from Simplicity 2373.  I used a misses' 12 at the shoulders and 14 elsewhere.  

The pattern pieces that I used are (pieces #9-14) the front, back, front facing, loophole for the buttons, back facing, and sleeve.

The directions and illustrations were easy to comprehend and follow.  If you are familiar with sewing button-down shirts and blazers/jackets, then you would be able to sew this jacket with very little or no problems at all. It seems that the instructions for the dress and pants are also more than satisfactory.


Likes/Dislikes
*Ideal spring/summer jacket with cap sleeves, slightly cropped length and loophole closures

*The jacket is not meant to be fully closed (two button-loopholes) and adds another dimension to an outfit when worn over a sleeveless dress, a tank or camisole top.

*I liked the overall ease of construction, and not having fit issues due to its "quasi-swing" style. My only concern are the bust darts being a tad higher than what I prefer.

Fabric Used:
A stretch cotton woven from GF.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
*Cut the front pieces separately for more symmetry.

* Added 3/8" to the length of the sleeve pattern piece. I still thought it was a tad short.

* Instead of cutting a pair of sleeves, I cut two pairs so that each sleeve would be lined in the same fabric. I sewed the self-lining or facing to the edge of a sleeve using a 3/8" seam, right sides together, turned the sleeve inside out and pressed the lower edge before attaching to the armscye.

*Omitted the bias trim at the lower edge of the sleeves. I turned in a 3/8" hem and topstitched, making sure that the ends of the sleeve cap are not visible.

*Made my usual petite adjustments at the upper back and waist (which is probably not necessary) due to the somewhat cropped style of the jacket.

*Added 1 1/2" to the length of the front and back. If you have a long torso, you might need to adjust accordingly.

*Attached one instead of two buttons.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I plan to sew the jacket in a baby wale corduroy. I definitely recommend this jacket, especially as a first-time jacket or a quick gratification project (one full evening worth of sewing). The dress and pants seem easy to construct, if no alterations were necessary. From previous experiences with "sun dress" styles, I have had to make several adjustments for a satisfactory fit. For the dress, I recommend reading the two previous reviews for more insight.

Conclusion:
After my experience from making the jacket, this pattern lives up to its "Easy chic" moniker.

Sewberta Plant

Here is a pattern that I purchased last week at JoAnn's during a Buttericks' sale. 

Pattern Description:

Tops/tunics with scoop necklines and sleeve options. I sewed view "B", the top with the sleeve tabs that the model is wearing.  I agree that this pattern is "easy", if it is sewn straight out of the envelope.

Pattern Sizing:

Misses' 8-18.

I sewed a "10" at the shoulders and neckline. I sewed a "14" elsewhere.

Fabric Used:
A mystery lightweight polyester woven from le Wal Marche

I feel llike a walking billboard for Ragu pasta sauce or for Knorr soups and seasonings due to the color scheme of their logos.  

"Babe I’m Gonna Sleeve You"

The pair of sleeve tabs for view "B" is simple to sew (This is actually the third time to sew then on a garment). Once a tab is turned inside out after sewing two pieces together and closing the open end with little zig-zag stitches...

(1) I stitched a buttonhole, 3/4" above the pointed end.

(2) I aligned this end and double-stitched it (using a 1/4" seam allowance) along the marked circles (transferred from the front and pattern pieces) perpendicular to the interior shoulder seam. On the outside, where the double-stitching was visible, I attached a button, centered at the shoulder seam.

(3) I took the tab "out of hiding" from the inside to the outside, "ruching" the sleeves in the process, to fasten it to the button, instead of rolling up the sleeves first per the instructions. The button and pointed end of the tab ended up being just past my shoulder. I fiddled with the tab and sleeve so that the tab and sleeve seam are both centered as much as possible along my upper arm.

"Whole Lotta Length and Width"
*For the views that do not have the elastic at the waist, the top billows out due to its exaggerated a-line shaping.

*Loose neckline, which could be remedied by taking in further the center seam of the bias strip of fabric to tighten the neckline, or adjusting the front/back pattern pieces to remove excess width.

*The original length of the tunic can overwhelm petite frames.


More Riffs
* To decrease the width of the upper back, I took out a 3/8" seam (3/4" total width) from the center of the upper back before cutting the entire back piece from the fabric.

*To shorten the upper back I made a horizontal fold starting with a 1/2" length from the center of the pattern piece, tapering to 0" at the sleeves

*I made a 3/4" petite adjustment at the waist on the front and back pattern pieces.

*Instead of sewing the bias strip onto the right side or visible part of the neckline, I sewed it onto the wrong side at 3/8" seams, pressed one end, turned it to the outside and topstitched it to the neckline.

*Topstitched the sleeve tabs

*I found the tunic length long for my short torso. Instead of using the full length for the tunic version, I added 1" to the length for view "C" .

*I took in each side seam an additional 1/4".

*Since I was dealing with fabric that unravelled or frayed easily at the edges, I staystitched the lower edges of the sleeves and those of the entire top 1/8" from the edge before pressing under a 1/2" hem and topstitching.

Comeback Tour?
I would sew with this pattern after a few more changes:
(1) tightening and raising the depth of the neckline
(2) removing excess width at the bust, upper back, and hips (especially for the non-elasticized tops)

So this pattern has a hopeful potential to be "go-to" or TNT pattern.

I recommend this pattern due to its ease of construction and its versatility, with added caution of the neckline depth, potential generous sizing at the bust and hips, and the the tunic length being long, especially for petites.

If you sew the pattern, straight out of the envelope, it undoubtedly is a "simple sew" or a "quick gratification" project.

Time to prepare dinner.  Chicken Broccoli flavored rice sounds good for tonight or maybe some Ragu and pasta.

Wave-O-Lution

A forty-one-year-old pattern that I purchased from ebay several years ago...

This pattern was one of the earlier ones that I purchased on-line to start my "retro" pattern collection.  I recall being inspired after watching some of my favorite classic television shows that appeared on the TV Land network or elsewhere.  For months now, I have been in a phase of sewing "collar-less" tops.  During one particular week last summer, I was on a shirt-sewing spree which included using a Burda commercial pattern, a Marlo Thomas 1970's pattern, and this pattern.   

 Pattern Description:  "The top-stitched men's and misses' shirt V. 1 and 2 with forward shoulder seams and slash opening at neck edge have collar, set-in sleeves and slit openings in side seams.  V. 2 with long sleeves gathered to buttoned cuff is worn with self fabric tie belt.  V. 2 with short sleeves has optional purchased belt."

Size:  Misses' size 14, bust 36

Here is the back of the pattern envelope that also includes information on men's sizing and fabric requirement. 

I made this top from a cotton woven blend from fabric.com. 

Favorite Features:

*I like the tunic-style of this top, although the fit and overall style look a bit dated due to the decade of the pattern.  This pattern would have been ideal  for dressing Mr. and Mrs. Brady and their children during their early 1970's heyday on television.

*I replaced the sleeve cuffs and plackets, with pleated flounces, for a more feminine look.

* The directions and illustrations are user friendly and non-intimidating for beginners who want to sew collared and cuffed shirts, without such features as front buttons and buttonholes and collar stands.   I also find that sewing with such basic patterns help return some sewing "mojo" before tackling more challenging  projects.

*The front slit is easy to create using the stitch and slash method as described on the instruction sheet. 

All the directions are on one sheet, front and back.

Not-so-favorite features

* Dropped sleeves (approximately an inch and a quarter past each shoulder) and excess gathers/ease, which do not appear on the illustrated models on the pattern envelope.

*No shaping at the side seams. 

Modifications

* Performed my usual petite adjusmtents at the upper back and at the waistline.

* Changed the cuffed sleeves to pleated sleeves for a flounced look.  It seemed that I cut the width of the sleeve cuff/flounce 4"-5" inches wider than the circumference of each sleeve at the wrist's location, and distributed 5 little pleats as evenly as possible before attaching it to the end of the sleeve.

* Sewed the collar from the inside, or the wrong side of the garment, leaving the facing portion free between the clipped points (right side of collar to the wrong side of the neck line), instead of sewing from the outside (right sides of the collar and neckline together). Then the collar is flipped to the outside and topstitched to the neckline. I recall a similar method I used to construct a 1950's blouse. This leaves a sleeker and cleaner finish from the inside of the neckline leading to the upper front and no erratic topstitching on the neckline seam on the outside.



Conclusion:

I probably will not use this pattern again.  It's a fairly easy pattern that I would recommend for those who like styles from the early 1970's or for a retro-themed event.

Two pairs of dangling gold "waves".  I purchased a pair of the Veronese from hsn.com last year.

Changing Your Spots

"Sew, Sew, Sew Your Bateau Gently Down The Seams..."

Pattern Description:
"Misses' Top, Tunic and Sash: Very loose-fitting, pullover tops A, B, tunics c, D have bateau neckline and attached hems. A: Armhole flounce. B: contrast appliques and ends of sash. C, D: side slits. D: contrast above wriist length sleeves. A, C, D: purchased belt.

I sewed view A.

Pattern Sizing:
I used BB: 8-10-12-14.
I sewed a "10" at the shoulders and neckline. For my second version,  I sewed a "12", instead of my usual "14" at the bust and sides. When Butterick meant "loose-fitting", it really meant very loose fitting!


Fabric Used:
Second version: Pre-laundered cotton woven with red and white leopard print.   First version: Remaining poly-satin from Le Wal Marche from my previous two projects. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes, except my sleeves of my second version of this pattern ruffled "differently" due to my "little" upwards translation of the start of the armholes.


Were the instructions easy to follow?
I thought they were easy to the point that I was able to nearly get by with only the illustrations. I found it helpful to preview the entire set of instructions due to the pattern having 4 views.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Favorite Features
*Few pattern pieces (front, back, front facing, back facing, sleeve flounce (view A)

*The top sews more quickly, especially if you sew view "A" without the flounced sleeves.

First version (muslin).  This top was a very loose "sack".  Then now it's too fitted!  I should have stopped after taking the seams in for the second time.

*Bateau neckline



Not-so-favorite Features
*Although I like the bateau neckline, I am not fond of using the "outdated" interfaced neck facings. For my first version, I folded and topstitched the neckline, which somehow did not work, especially with the "slippery" fabric I was using. It would have probably worked if I ironed on a strip of interfacing to stabilize the neckline. However, for the second top, I used the front and neck facing. After careful understitching and some iron-pressing of the neck facing, I was able to get a sleeker neckline.

*The neckline tended to drape with a droop, which I attribute to my narrow shoulders. If I make this top again, I would do a slash and overlap below each shoulder.

*My usual 1" petite adjustment did not work for the back because of those extra wrinkles created by the additional length. It seemed that I needed to fold in an additional 1".

*I thought the location where the armholes started (designated by the marked squares which are lower for view A than the other views due to including the sleeve flounces) were quite low for me, landing below my bustline. After I raised it to the upper squares, I had to shorten the sleeve flounces to better encircle armscyes as I stitched. Now due to the placement, my flounces flared out "wildly"! For a moment, I thought I heard samba music playing!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
*I took in the sleeve flounces approximately 1 1/2".

*I took in the back an additional 5/8" (folded the pattern piece before cutting) because I foresaw "draping" in the upper back.

*I sewed the shoulders together and sides together using French seams.

*To prevent the hems of the sleeve flounce from showing, I cut another pair of flounce pieces to act as self-facings or linings for the other pair. I sewed each facing (right sides together) to the original flounce.

*Since I was not yet able to find a belt that would coordinate well with the flounced top, I sewed a makeshift belt from the remaining fabric and secured it with a red buckle from Lucy'sFabrics.com that I purchased a few years ago.



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I have already sewn it twice and need to make a neckline adjustment and another petite adjustment at the back waistline. I recommend this top along with my observation that the top seems to run one or two sizes larger from my experience.

Without a belt:

Conclusion:
Even with my fuss with the sleeves and the fit, I was able to sew my top in nearly two hours!