Let Tree-dom Ring!

MISSES' DRESS: Close-fitting, mid-knee length, wrap dresses A, B have front pleats, back darts and flared skirt. B: three-quarter length sleeves with elbow dart and stitched hem. Purchased belt. Separate pattern pieces provided for A, B, C, D cup sizes.

Misses' 6-8-10-12. I used a "10" at the shoulders, a "12" at the shoulders and a "12" instead of a "14" elsewhere. After reading the other reviews and since I was using a knit instead of a woven, I used the next smaller size, a "12" .
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The directions are fine, especially if you are familiar with sewing wrap dresses with a bodice and full skirt. Since I was making a knit wrap dress with ties, I did not follow the directions after sewing the pleats below the front shoulders and the 4 back darts. So I skipped the directions that pertained to attaching bias binding to the neckline (suitable for wovens) and attaching a ribbon and a hook/eye at the waist (no use of self-fabric ties).


From "The Bachelor", season 15, last spring, here are Chantal, Emily, and Ashley.  Despite commentaries about Chantal's tangerine wrap dress being outdated (there was one saying that she remembered her third grade teacher wearing it back in 2003!!), non-trendy, unattractive, and so on, I preferred it over the what Emily and Ashley wore here during the "rose" ceremony.  Wrap dresses flatter any figure.

Fabric
Polyester knit jersey from emmaonesock.com two years ago

Favorite and Not-so-favorite Features
* It is a simple dress to make, but if you are looking for a stylish wrap dress, I prefer the popular DVF-styled Vogue 8379 wrap dress

*I like the drape of the knit coupled with the style of the "circle" skirt, but not the time it took to hem and topstitch it. Just when I thought I was "nearly done" topstitching the skirt's hem, I was surprised to discover that I was not even halfway done!

"Been O-Round the Twirled"

*I was forewarned about the neckline's behavior by QuiltQuiltSewSue's PR review. Although I did not see anything wrong about her sleek sleeveless dress, Sue provided her helpful input that was not apparent from just looking at the pattern envelope. I also anticipate that the neckline might gape and be quite a bit low-cut or what I describe as the "deep rippling effect".

*The neckline was somewhat floppy despite raising the neckline on the pattern piece before cutting

*Since the bodice appears to run a tad short, I thought I could do away with my usual 1" petite adjustment between the bust and hips. However when trying on the dress for fitting at several instances, I notice that the waistline seam of the front bodice "droops" which would seem to be remedied by the 1" adjustment. But fortunately the droop can be easily camouflaged by the waist ties. The back's length was fine.


Modifications/Alterations
* I was not able to cut the front skirt pieces in a "12" due to the pattern piece ot fitting on the fold of fabric no matter how I positioned it on the fabric. To be able to cut the entire front pieces from the fabric, I cut 3 sizes smaller (from a "12" to "6"), which most likely helped reduced some ease but not detract significantly from "fullness" achieved from a "circle" skirt.

*To raise the neckline, I added 1" to the center front of the bodice pattern piece, tapering to 0" at the shoulders and at the waist.

*Because it drooped hours after topstitching,  I added, as a quick fix, 1/8" elastic to the neckline  to the inside or wrong side of the dress, stretching a little while stitching. Then I turned in about a 1/2" hem, encasing the elastic and topstitched. 

*Upper back petite adjustment (1")

*Due to a fabric shortage, I shortened the sleeves. 
*Instead of "setting in" the sleeves, I sew them in "flat" to the armscyes, before sewing the sleeve seams and side seams as one "continuous" seam.

* Replaced the hook and eyes, and internal ribbon with self-fabric ties at each front. At the right seam just above the waist/skirt seam, I left an opening for the left tie to enter and wrap around to the left front. 

*Topstitched the front ends and the neckline instead of using bias binding per the instructions. Due to the stability of the knit I was using, I was able to forego the use of "extra treatment" on the neckline.

*I removed 3" from the length of the skirt.

Just outside a local restaurant for a July the 4th breakfast.  Picture taken by my husband.

Wrap Up
I am not sure if I will see sew another dress from this pattern. "So many patterns, sew little time...". 
I recommend this pattern because it is simple to construct, paying attention to the neckline and sizing. It has a potential of being a nice "go-to" or TNT pattern.

Have a very nice 4th of July!

Moulin Ruched

Pattern Description:
Misses' knit tops with sleeve options and the folowing style options: a gathered front, a faux wrap, or a cross-over detail. I sewed view B, a faux wrap top with an asymmetrical twist formed by the looping of left and right overlay.

Pattern Sizing:
Misses 6-8-10-12-14. I sewed a 10 at the shoulders, a 12 at the armscye, and a 14 elsewhere. 

Fabric Used:
A  poly-lycra knit (as described) from fabric.com.  Due to its texture it felt more like a rayon knit.





Instructions
Overall the directions and illustrations were fine, except those for the front facing and facing for the back neckline (a small rectangular piece). I should have trusted my intuition and use a reliable method to finish the neckline.

I was able to succesfully create the asymmetrical twist with the two overlay pieces.

First version:

Honestly, I prefer my asymmetrical ruched (no overlays) knit top from a Burda WOF January 2009 pattern, #110:

"Penned" Photos
I borrowed my daughter's pen featuring penguin Badtz Maru (a Sanrio character) to "pen-point" the looping detail.

The seam on the right overlay is formed by joining the lower end and an edge with the matching notch and dots.

The left overlay is inserted through the loop of the right overlay.

The looped left and right overlay pieces as a whole is basted onto the front piece.

An asymmetrical twist top by Classiques Entier for $118, at Nordstroms.com

Lynn Ritchie Ambrosia knit top from Bloomingdale's, spring 2010, $108 

Likes/Dislikes of the Pattern
*I like the faux wrap style formed by the asymmetrical twist of the overlay pieces. 

*The fit of the top is satisfactory after my usual adjustments, but I thought that the overlay was constrictive or tight. Extending the length of each overlay by a reasonable amount would most likely "loosen" the "wrap". However, even if both overlays were slightly lengthened, then they would seem to "interrupt" or surpass the lower hem of the front of the top. It would seem to make sense to increase each overlay just past the loop, while keeping the length of each overlay intact. I welcome suggestions.

*Switching the overlays would hopefully de-emphasize one side of my bust and "balance" my asymmetric figure.

*What I am not to fond of are the front facing that nearly lines the entire front and the "awkward" back facing. As mentioned by PR reviewers Elizabeth Made This and MNBarb, the front facing would come in handy for sheer knits. I should have gone with my first intuition to either bind or topstitch the neckline. What would be the easiest way to bind a "V"-neck?

I did a search and found this:  A PDF tutorial for a V-Neck binding

Modifications/alterations:
*I performed my petite adjusments at the usual upper back and at the waistline.

*Added 1" to the lower edge.

I plan to use this pattern again, but without the overlays, especially after being now familiar with this view.  This pattern is a nice deal - a variety of looks from one envelope. 


Second version, July 3, 2011, without the overlays, and sleeves from view "E". I curved the "V" point or vertex to make an elongated "U".

O-La-Dee O-La-Dah

A pattern from 1974: Misses' Jiffy (R) knit short front-wrap dress (sized for stretch knits only)...The front wrap dress with dropped shoulders features "V" shaped neckline and self fabric tie ends. V. 1 has tri-color braid trim. v. 2 has top-stitching trim.

Size 14, bust 36

Although I did not use them, the instructions were definitely easy to follow accompanied by helpful diagrams, and even easier without using the back facing and the lengthy front facing.

It has been two weeks that we watched the Beatles "Love" Cirque Du Soleil performance at the Mirage in Las Vegas. I still recall the colorful performances set to some memorable songs of the Beatles. Although "Ob La Di Ob La Da (1968)" was not on the playlist of the show (it would have fit in very well due to its story-telling lyrics), I thought I commemorate the fifth anniversary of the "L-O-VE" show with my neon "O"rings-printed wrap dress.

Fabric:
A French imported rayon/lycra knit from emmaonesock.com. This knit sewed like a dream. My neckline did not need any "extra treatment" (i.e. invisible elastic, stabilizers).

Favorite Features
* This is the easiest dress or one of the easiest garments (front pattern piece, back pattern piece) that I have sewn from my sewing experience especially when I omitted the facings and topstitched the front edges and the back neckline.

*Unlike a "very easy" current Vogue wrap dress that I originally intended to sew, this wrap dress did not consume 3 yards or more of fabric: approximately 2 1/4 yards in my case.

*I also liked that I did not need to adjust the neckline which surprisingly is a conservative one! There is nothing to dislike.


Alterations/modifiations:
* Replaced the front and back facings with topstitching along the back neckline and front edges.
* To preserve the pattern pieces (leaving them uncut). I traced them my alterations onto tissue paper.
* My usual petite adjusments at the upper back (3/4" and waist (1")

* Taking in an additional 1/2" seam starting at the upper center back and tapering to 0" above the waistline.

* I removed 4" from the original length of the dress to obtain the desired length as shown on the model.

* It was not necessary for me to lengthen the tie belt.



La La How The Life Sews On...
I plan to sew a few more with sleeve variations. I highly recommend this if you are able to find it online (one of those rare gems) or something very similar to it.

All the JIFFY patterns from Simplicity that I sewed with make some of those current "very easy" patterns seem "moderately easy" or even "moderately difficult", and they do indisuputably live up to the name. It is nice to occasionally receive a JIFFY sewing gratification!

A DKNY wrap dress with cap sleeves for $345
Saks Fifth Avenue link

Ob La Di Ob La Da, 33 years later in Rio de Janeiro with Sir Paul

Viva Les May Fleurs

Heather is SEW ecstatic about her new flower girl dress!  She had butterflies in her stomach due to being honored to be a flower girl for the first time.

I snapped this photo inside our hotel room in Las Vegas. She is a flower girl for my cousin who was getting married that early evening.

I sewed Heather's dress using Butterick 4967.

Pattern Description: "Children's/Girl's Dress and Cummberbund:  Lined, sleeveless dress with tier variations and back zipper closing.  A, B:  mid-knee length with ribbon tie.  C:  evening length with contrast cummerbund and flower".  I sewed a view "C' for my daughter's flower girl gown. 

There are 6 tiers (each with a front and back) for view C: one top tier (just below the bodice), 4 middle tiers (the upper middle tier has pieces 9 and 10, the subsequent three  middle tiers have respectfully 12, 13, 14), and the low tier is made from piece number 15.  

Size: Girls' 6-7-8. I sewed an "8" which corresponds to my daughter's usual RTW size. However, I discovered that it fits more like a "10". But this is fine, since I was able to tie her ribbon (also purchased by the spool at JA's trims section) in a way that cinches the back.

Comparable tiered formal dresses

"Satin netting Wedding/Bridesmaid/Prom/Pageant Dress", from jaksflowergirldresses.com, $320

Here's how NOT to wear a tiered dress:

You are not on the right track, "Lady".  Tiers cannot be"worn this way"!

Double vision!

Just before the photo session with the wedding entourage, Heather gave herself one more check at the mirror. I thought this was would be an interesting photo op. 

Material: Baroque Satin from JA's on sale for $3.49/yard.  I used approximately 5 1/3 yards of the 6 yards that I purchased. For view "C" in a size 8, the pattern calls for 3 3/8" (45" width) and 4 3/8" (60"width) of fabric.  The lining requires 2 1/2 yards of fabric. 

Approximate total cost of dress:  $32.00

I used the same fabric to line the bodice and the skirt. 

Here is about 2/3 of a yard of bits and pieces of the baroque satin after I sewed the entire dress.

 Directions:

Although I relied extensively on the illustrations, the directions were sufficient and simple to follow.  I adapted the steps to the type of fabric and number of tiers that I was using. 

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I reserved seven consecutive evenings to sew Heather's dress.

Evening One:
*Pinning and cutting the fabric (lots of cutting due to number of pieces!)
*Marking the placements of the tiers to the skirt stay

Evening Two:
*Sewing the front and back bodice with the lining,
*Sewing and lining the upper tier

Evening Three
*Sewing and hemming two middle tiers

Evening Four:
*Sewing and hemming the subsequent two middle tiers
*Pinning and sewing the first two layers of middle tiers to the skirt "stay"

Evening Five:
*Pinning and sewing the third layer of the middle tier to the skirt "stay"

Evening Six:
*Attach the skirt stay to the skirt lining along the upper edge
*Attach the upper bodice to the skirt
*Attach the invisible zipper, paying attention to the backs of the upper two tiers so that they don't get "caught" in the zipper.
Evening Seven:
*Attach the lowest middle tier, which ended up being the lowest tier, omitting pattern piece #15 (lowest tier of the skirt)

Challenges:

*Attaching two of the "middle tiers" to the skirt because one of them was a bit wide and the other a bit narrow as I attached each to the corresponding marking that encircled one level of the skirt. I strongly believe this is due to operator error, when I mistook one pattern piece for another which can very easily happen sewing into the wee hours of the morning.

*Hemming each tier

Favorite Features:

* Tiered style

* Although time and labor intensive, the dress is still straightforward to construct.

* Suitable for many occasions.

Wedding entourage in front of the hotel entrance at the JW Marriott in Las Vegas (outside the L.V. strip).  

Design Modifications/Alterations
* Instead of sewing 6 tiers as pictured on the pretty human model, I sewed 5, omitting the lowest tier.

*I lined the top tier. If I had more fabric, I would have lined all the tiers to eliminate the process  hemming a circular piece of fabric.

*If only hemming each tier was simple as a blink of the eye! After sewing the side seams of each tier (middle) and using a small zig zag stitch to finish the ends of each tier, I turned up, pressed, and pinned down a 3/8" hem, and topstitch very close to the edge. My iron has received quite a workout!

*I did a lot of edge finishing after staystitching the ends of the bodice, upper edges of the skirt and its lining, and the top of each tier due to the fraying nature of the fabric. 

* As mentioned earlier, I most likely mixed up one front for a middle tier with the back for another middle tier (the third and fourth levels of the tiers below the bodice)! I gathered slightly one of the middle tiers to get it to encircle nicely one level of the skirt, before the final pinning and stitching.   I did not have problem with two of the middle tiers.  For one of the other middle tiers whose circumference was smaller than the level to which it was to be attached, I had to slightly pleat somewhere along the skirt. 

* Added two front tucks/pleats at the lower edge of the front bodice.

*I used an invisible zipper for the back.

Return To Sewing, A-Dress Unknown...
I plan to make the two-tiered view "A" sometime very soon. Although view "C" is time and labor intensive, but it is still SEW worth it for making any young lady whom you adore feel like a princess for a day!

Heather on her way to the Waterfall Lagoon where the ceremony was to be held.

A little more conversation after the ceremony

Smileys Cy-r-us

Cowl-lifornia Girls

The draped cowl neck caught my attention when I purchased this pattern.  After my slight disappointment with my first version of this pattern several months ago, I decided to give it another try.

From 2004: "Misses/misses' petite top and belt: Unlined, loosefitting, below waist, pullover top has cowl-neck A, B: sleeveless. C, D: short sleeve. E: long bell sleeves. D, E: side seam slits.  B: self belt."  The front and back pieces are cut on the bias.

I sewed the "C" view with the flutter short sleeves, but with the longer length from either view "B" or "E".

Pattern Sizing:
8-10-12    I sewed a "12".

Fabric Used:
Cotton/rayon jersey from fabric.com

Favorite Features
*I liked the draped/cowl neck style and the sleeve options.

A Chadwick's cowl shell

Ann Taylor Loft's cowl shell

* The directions were satisfactory. When I made my second top from this pattern, I barely glanced at them due to a few modifications.
* I liked that it was much more easier especially after making the first version and discovering some "rough" spots along the way. After my disappointment with my first version that I made months ago, I decided to give this pattern another try.

* For my first version when cutting the front piece, I did not include the "extended" front facing that was to be folded inward along the marked horizontal line and the reinforced (with backstitching) clipped corners. I replaced the front facing with a topstitched narrow hem.

*For the second version, I included the extended front facing, which I prefer over my "non-faced" original.

*I only disliked the back facing and the original construction of the flutter short sleeves.  

Pattern modifications/alterations:
*I performed my usual petite adjustments on the upper back (3/4") and at the waistline (1").

* To narrow the upper back, I folded in 1" from the center back, for my second version.

* I lengthened each of the short flutter sleeve 1 centimeter and still found it short. Next time, I will lengthen each sleeve a full inch (approximately 2.54 cm).

* Since I was not using the back facing, I let the upper edge of the back neckline, extend approximately 5/8" past the short shoulder seam formed by the junction of the front piece (having self-facing that was folded inward) and the back piece. To avoid the back facing, I topstitched a narrow hem at the back neckline between the shoulder seams.

*I self-faced each sleeve to avoid the visibility of a "narrow" hem when the sleeves flop about. I cut an additional pair of the sleeves and sewed each facing to the lower edge of its corresponding sleeve, right sides together. After trimming the seams and "clipping" at the curves of the seam, I turned each sleeve with the facing inside out and pressed the lower edge. I machine basted the upper edges before sewing them to the armscyes.

*I sewed the sleeves in "flat" instead of setting them in per the directions. Or, I sewed the sleeves to the armscyes before sewing a little corner of the sleeve seam and the entire side seams of the entire top.



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I still would recommend this top. Even though this pattern originally came out 7 years ago, the draped front has been a classic and timeless style feature. This neckline has received more attention and interest after Pippa Middleton created a media sensation with her bridesmaid gown.

Also it was mentioned that Cameron Diaz wore the red carpet version of McQueen's dress at 2010's Golden Globes award. I liked Cameron's red dress that I snapped a pic of her in it during the show.

The neckline of the dresses worn by Pippa and Cameron reminds me of views E or F of Simplicity 3682 that I sewed 4 years ago.

Conclusion:
There are probably "better" patterns with a similar style to Butterick 4132.  This pattern is a keeper for now.

More draped/cowl tops

From Ann Taylor Loft:

From Chadwick's: