Petallica

From the Simplicity website: "Misses' faux fur, fitted  and loose cut jackets sewing pattern." I sewed view "B" with a draped shawl-collar in a "10" at the shoulders, "12" at the armscye, and a "14" elsewhere.

Draped shawl collared jackets:

Tommy Bahama, leather jacket, $498

 

Vero ModaVery Washed Jacket, $143

Pencey V Blazer on Kim Kardashian , Singer22.com, $419

 

Design History, Zip front in merinowwool, $148

Rocky Monda by Mink Pink in 65% Cotton, 35% Polyester

threadsence.com, $69

Kimberly Ovitz Rikard Open Front Jacket

Karen Kane in spandex/jersey, $43

Directions
The instructions and diagrams were satisfactory, with occasional tangents to view "A", the shawl-collared jacket for common steps.


The two front of the jacket (largest piece) are connected via a center back seam. The directions state and show clearly in the diagrams and attached to the back section of the jacket at the neckline with pivot points (clipped and reinforced) center back seam and

Fabric Used:
A cotton in a funky print with a slight stretch from .ahem  from JoAnn's. I thought I play it safe and use less expensive fabric.


Favorite/Not-so Favorite Features
* I like the "draped shawl collar" or "shawl-collared draped front" and several other ways to describe this jacket as I discovered on the internet. I agree with the previous reviewer of this pattern in regards to how the front should drape. After letting my jacket "hang" or stay on a hanger overnight, I let the front "crease and drape" below a shawl collar/lapel (formed after some fiddling in front of the mirror).

* Princess-seams for a more flattering fit.

*The jacket overall is fairly simple, but somewhat time consuming to construct.

* The part that I thought was odd was after turning in the large front facing to the inside is how it is attached to the back of the neckline to the shoulder seams. After not being able to decipher Simplicity's instructions on how to handle this situation, I turned in the raw edges of the front facing about 5/8" (in the form of an upper half of a rectangle)and "slipstitched" or secured the hem with hand stitches, which seemed safer than "stitching in the ditches".

* Creating a lining with the back and side front/back pieces would seem to simplify the construction eliminating the need to slipstitch or handstitch the lower hem and to slipstitch the front/neck facing to the neckline and to the side seams.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

*I performed my usual petite alterations above the waist (shortening by 1")

*I made a button front closure.

*I skipped the back rectangular tab. Although it looks like a sleek style feature, something similar to it did not work for me in the past.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, but not immediatlely, in a lightweight corduroy or denim. I recommend this pattern if you like princess-seamed jackets with an added detail and/or the other styles shown on the pattern envelope.

Conclusion:
Although I like the fit of this jacket, I still am uncertain about it. I'll see how it fares in another type of fabric.

The OWL-ter Limits

I purchased this pattern last month during a Simplicity sale at JoAnn's.  The ruffled front was endearing!  It is rare to come across appealing styles for the " 'tween " aged girls.  This is a Little Lisette Sew Your Style pattern for girls' blouses and skirts.   I sewed the view A top in a "10" out of the 7-8-10-12-14 for my 8 y.o. daughter.

Heather liked her first Lisette top with the "owls" print very much that she "requested" me to make another top in another bird themed fabric. The fabric is a "Tana" cotton lawn fabric from Liberty of London fabrics.  I ordered this and other fabric from the Liberty of  London UK website and paid nearly 35 USD a meter.  Also I had to reluctantly pay DHL (separate invoice) 17.2% of the declared value of the fabric order and a $6 disbursement fee.  This discourages me to purchase from overseas again due to high customs fees.

More information about this fabric and its artist.
http://www.liberty.co.uk/fcp/product/Liberty/Inspired-by-Musicians/Ornithology-C-Tana-Lawn-by-Edwyn-Collins-Liberty-Art-Fabrics/63656



Original post:

Hooooo-La-La!   Owls can be cute.

Keeping it Owl-in-the-Family

A Pair of "Tap Zoo" Owls

FOWL-lowing a trend, for Heather's top, I used an owl-printed 21-wale corduroy fabric from fabric.com

Directions
They are logical, clear, and nicely written, suitable for beginning sewists. The diagrams were sufficiently detailed to rely upon with minimal reading of the instructions.

If you are interested in knowing more about Lisette patterns such as for instance fit comparisons with other Simplicity patterns:
http://www.sewlisette.com/blog/2011/02/how-lisette-sewing-patterns-are-developed 


Favorite Features
* The three little tiers (upper, middle, lower) of ruffles at the center front of the top.

* Simple to make

* Sleeve options: flared or elasticized sleeves at the hems.

* Very age-appropriate

* Notches and other markings aligned nicely (i.e. attaching the bias neck binding to the neckline)

* "Lisette" tips  or clarification of a technique strategically placed after certain steps that could be helpful to beginning sewists (i.e. staystitching, gathering stitches, finishing a raw edge)

Other
*The flared sleeves came out inconveniently long (up to the knuckles). When I was about to shorten them, my daughter changed her mind, and is satisfied the way they are.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
* Attached bias neck band from the inside, turning outwards and topstitching to the neckline. Because I self-faced all the strips to be used ruffles, I encoutered slightly extra "bulk" when finishing the front neckline where the upper ruffle was.

*To avoid narrowly hemming the edges of each ruffle, I cut a pair of strips for each level of ruffles (upper, middle, lower), so that one acts as a self-facing of each pair. I sewed each pair of strips right sides together, leaving an opening at the top edge. Then I turned each pair of strips inside out, lowered the machine tension, sewed the long and loose stitches along the top edge's seam allowance, pulled the ends to "gather", and adjusted accordingly while sewing each ruffle along the corresponding stitch markings to the center front of the blouse. 

* "Finish seams" are mentioned throughout the directions. I used topstitched seams for the sides and the center back. From the inside, I pressed each seam allowance to one side and sewed 1/8" from each raw edge of the seam.

* Closure at the center back: Instead of a "thread loop", I cut a 2" piece of 1/4" width elastic, folded it in half, stitched the ends together to form a "loop", inserting it to the left end of the bias "encased" neckline, and securing it with a few double stitches that also enclose the end of the neckline. 
*I used a button featuring a Beatrix Potter cat.

Recommendations
I plan to use this pattern again not only for the top but also for a new skirt for Heather. Also the top could be made without the ruffled front.  This pattern also seems like a "user-friendly" pattern suitable for beginning sewists introducing them to seemingly more advanced techniques (i.e. bias finish neckline, ruffles) in a non-intimidating manner.

I hope that Lisette produces more patterns for girls in the more 'tween age. It would be nice to have patterns for children in the elementary to middle school age bracket that are fun to wear for school and elsewhere and yet still be age appropriate.

Pet Pillow and Stitch to the Rescue

Ahhhh! Those Pillow Pets, that even come in smaller sizes, "Pillow Pet pee wees" ($12.99).  I agree that they are cute and cuddly, but are not as well made, as you can see.  My 8-year-old daughter just after cradlling Miss "Lady Bug"in her arms, brought to my attention that one of the pom-poms got detached from one of her antennae. This poses a potential safety issue for very young children.  Although I rarely post on FB,  I posted this to the Pillow Pets fan FB page  in order to raise awareness. 

 

The pom-pom seemed to be adhered to the antenna with a few long and loose stitches. Fortunately, I had some red thread and a needle handy to secure the pom-pom back to its stem.

 

Heather is now happy that "Lady Bug" is fine. 

 

Dot-ley Crue and Mis-Sew-Ni

I was inspired by our fellow PR sewists who experienced success with Style Arc patterns that I quickly hopped on the Style Arc bandwagon.

Pattern Description:
From the StyleArc.com website: "Fabulous versatile wrap dress, easy to wear, great for any occasion. Try it Royal Blue for that special occasion." These patterns are "real industry based patterns" as mentioned on the website.

Honestly, Style Arc's "Kate" dress is nicely drafted, but does not exactly replicate the much publicized blue Issa engagement dress worn by the Duchess.

FABRIC SUGGESTION DESCRIPTION: fine knit jersey, any soft knit fabric

Pattern Sizing:
SIZES: 6 -8 -10 -12 -14 -16 -18- 20 -22 -24 -26 -28 -30. Style Arc patterns do not come multi-sized. You specify a size for each style while ordering. I ordered a "12".

Fabric Used:
I used a somewhat thin rayon jersey (its photo looked nicer on the website) from fabric.com for my muslin.

Second version: "Mis-Sew-Ni", also in a rayon jersey from fabric.com

Here are my inspirations for my second version:

 a Missoni "puckered stripe" dress from SaksFifthAvenue.com, for $1,375.

The other a Diane Von Furstenberg vintage 1974  reproduction, a "New Julian" wrap dress in silk jersey, $345 at DVF.com.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Somewhat.


Were the instructions easy to follow?
The directions are a numbered list of steps on one page and are sufficient if you have experience with sewing knit wrap dresses or dresses in general. Hence, the "medium" rating. There are no diagrams a la the well-known patterns (i.e. Simplicity, McCall's, Butterick, Vogue...).

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The pattern comes in paper instead of tissue.  Since it not as dense as the paper used by Hot Patterns, it is more manageable to work with. I give credit to StyleArc for its care in packing and packaging of the pattern. Each pattern, its set of instructions, and illustrated design were placed in a sheet protector for easy storage.

*I like the neckline depth: not too low or high, just "right".

* I like the pleating at the waist and at the sleeves, just above the wrists.

*The patterns are drafted with flattering side contours and in way that eliminates the need for me to make my usual petite adjustments at the upper back and waist.

* I am not too fond of the back ties. I prefer the ties to wrap from the back to the front and secured at the front. 
* The only setback is that the patterns do not come multi-sized which is useful for those as myself who use different sizes at the shoulders, bust and waist.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
* I took in the shoulder seam to approximate a "10" at the shoulders and kept the "12" at the waist.

*I did not use the narrow front and back facing. I folded a 3/8" hem at the front and back neckline and topstitched.

* I added 5" to each end of the tie belt to be able to wrap to the front.

* Finding the length to be longer than preferred, I removed approximately 8" from the lower hem.

* Instead of setting in the sleeves as instructed, I sewed them in flat.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Absolutely, yes! I already am planning to sew my second version of this dress in a sturdier knit with a nice drape. I recommend this pattern, especially if you are in search of a nicely drafted wrap dress with little or no adjustments.



Conclusion:
For my first experience with Style Arc patterns, I was impressed! My order (three patterns + a freebie) arrived quickly despite being shipped overseas from Australia. The patterns seem to be nicely drafted and straightforward to use.

Feather-ation

Pattern Description:
HP Pattern 1072:  relaxed fit "v"neck and cowl neck knit tops.



Pattern Sizing:
Multi-sized 6-26.

I sewed a "10" at the shoulders and neckline and a "12" elsewhere. and According to my specified measurements, I was supposed to use a "14". Although I went down a size, still encountered excess ease at the waist and hips. Maybe the word "Very" should precede "relaxed fit" in the pattern description.

Some trendy "Cowl-fornia Girls"

Fabric Used:
A polyester-lycra knit from Emma One Sock. Being somewhat slippery and fussy, I encountered a few missed stitches along the way and annoying "waves" in the hem. I experimented with several topstitching options, to reduce the "waves" in the hem.

After some shopping on a lovely sunny day, Heather, my 8 y.o. daughter, quickly snapped this photo:

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, after making a minor adjustment to the bodice modesty panel, which HP refers to as an "insert" panel.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I would not say "easy" because there are no diagrams or visual cues that accompany the instructions. If you have sewn lined knit tops, then you would be able to follow them with little or no problems. I was able to glance at them and go "on my own".

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the overall style with the cowl front (topstitched edge) and flared sleeves, except for the slightly low back and the tendency for the top to "slip" from the shoulders. I probably would not experience this if I used a more "stable" type of knit.

After thinking that I "carefully" cut the pieces, aligned and stitched the lower armscye of the modesty panel with that the front of the top, something looked out of sync. My modesty panel which was supposed to land above the cowl, came "draped" below it because it seemed to be drafted wider than it should be. I had to add a few stitches 2 1/2" from the stitched seam of the side of the modesty panel "secured" to a portion of the front armscye in order for the modesty panel to rise above the plunging cowl neckline as illustrated on the pattern envelope. By doing this, I omitted the need for elasticizing the neckline.



Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
* I performed my usual 1" petite alteration at the waist and taking in the modesty panel as described earlier.

* I added a waist tie belt in the same fabric. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I am not sure if I would sew it again. However, I plan to "borrow" these sleeves to use for another pattern. If you have this pattern somewhere, give it a try.

Conclusion:
It still is a fairly easy top to sew. I was able to sew the entire top, despite some fidgeting with the modesty panel and the stitching, in one entire morning.

Enjoying chicken soup at the home of grandma and grandpa.

Simone Cowl

From Spring 2010, DKNY's knit dress with a cowl neck that sold for $160 on Saksfifthavenue.com.

Now you can make your own DKNY dress with similar styling for less using Vogue 1250, currently a very popular pattern in PR:

Pattern Description: Close-fitting knit dress with cowl neck and cap sleeves. Vogue's simple description: "Close-fitting dress"

Pattern Sizing:
Misses' 6-14.  I used an "8" at the the shoulders, and a"12" elsewhere. I experienced an unexpected challenge of discerning my size's "hip dart" amidst the intertwinement of dotted lines representing all of the given sizes.  I nearly cut into the stitch lines! It helps to highlight the correct hip dart lines to be cut with one color and the stitch lines with another color.  

Fabric Used:
Poly textured knit in a "chain-link" print from EOS.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did, even to the "wrinkles" at the bust and tummy.

Were the instructions easy to follow?For just a 2 piece dress, I thought they with the diagrams were superb, even for beginners. I had original reservations about the large piece that looks like almost the entire dress that includes the front and back skirt as one piece to be joined at a center seam. After one scan of the directions, things made more sense to me now.

 

The reinforced and clipped notches at the cowl front determine the location of junctions of the shoulder seams and neckline. The diagram shows the position of the cowl turned to the back neckline and sewn to the upper back piece forming the shoulder seams. One flip of the cowl to the front reveals the shoulder seam with no visible raw edges.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Being a fan of draped cowl necks on knit tops and dresses and after seeing the successes of fellow PR'ers with this pattern, I decided to hop on the DKNY 1250 bandwagon and join in on the fun.
Although I am not a fan of facings on knits, the strip for finishing the back neckline (a rectangular piece folded in half lengththwise, turned over and topstitched after sewing its raw edge along the edge of the back neckline) works well with the cowl neck.


My only dismay about this dress is that the front emphasizes my front pouch which I do not feel comfortable to be in full display. Although I like the pencil silhouette of the skirt, it just does not work for me in a knit. Vogue suggests a two-way knit which I did not use.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I performed my usual petite alteration at the front and back waist.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes! I hope to find a more suitable knit in my fabric stash. I can see why this pattern received many favorable reviews: you get a fashionable dress in a short amount of time!

 

 

Conclusion:
As evident from the 40 number of pattern reviews, this DKNY is a winner!