Copy Cats Caught in a Pony Tale

Here is another  pony "tale" about Jalie 2921:

A pair of  Equine-tessential tops and somebody showing off her Hello Kitty case.

 I just sewed another Jalie 2921 scarf collar pattern, but this time for my daughter, Heather.  I thought by now, she would not want to wear matching outfits, but she still does, especially if it is in a fabric and style that she likes.  

For Heather's top, I sewed a girl's size "9" (Jalie goes by the approximate age of the child) which corresponds to a size "M" on the pattern.  I used the short sleeve version and shortened the tie to much shorter than the one designated for the "M" (much shorter than size "F"). The fabric is a viscose lycra jersey from EOS, soft, resilient, and comfortable.

During a weekend visit,  at the backyard of my parents' home, overlooking a golf course.  

Enjoying the Sunday sunshine and more trotting with Jalie 2921 very soon!

Equine-tessential Jalie

I intended to purchase the Jalie scarf collar top pattern at the height of its popularity nearly two years ago.  But then I got caught up with new SBMV patterns.  I purchased this Jalie a month ago, after the most current reviews convinced me to GET this pattern immediately.   After my recent experience, I regret not purchasing this much sooner.  I have had unexpected successes after jumping on much "delayed" bandwagons.


Pattern Description:
" Knit top with scarf collar that can be tied in many different ways: A- Through a buckle B- In a bow C - Through opening at center front Sleeveless or with short or three-quarter sleeve."  This is a multi-sized pattern of consisting of 27 sizes.  I referred to the chart showing the RTW sizes and the lettered sizes that corresponded to them. I sewed an "8" ("U") at the shoulders grading to a "12" ("Y" ) at the bust, waist, and hips.

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I used a delectable viscose-lycra jersey from EOS.  I did not mind paying more for a fabric that was very pleasant to work with and that is comfortable to wear due to its "breathability" factor.

Instructions
Overall the instructions for the top is understandable and more so with the diagrams.  However,  the steps for attaching the scarf collar using the burrito method (it must be my frame of mind that evening...) baffled me. Foolish me. After sewing the shoulder seams,  sewing the center seam of the scarf and attaching the right side of the edge of the scarf collar to the "wrong" side of the neckline, I relied on my experience with sewing tops with similar scarf collars such as a BWOF (now Burda Style) from September, 2007 that I sewed a few years ago:

 After sewing the collar to the neckline while making sure that the collar tie's center seam aligned with the center back of the top, I folded each of the tie ends, right sides together and stitched the seam from the front center of the blouse (where the neckline ruching starts) to the ends of the ties and turned the ties inside out. Then I folded the collar inward (outward for this Jalie due to the collar sewn to the inside of the top), with the raw edge tucked underneath, and top stitched close to the edge so that on the outside the stitching would appear very close to the seamline where the collar and neckline meet. I wonder if there is an existence of the phrase "instinctual sewing."

Favorite Features
*Scarf collar options (tied in a bow or or the ties secured with a buckle)

*Overall ease of construction

* If I had sewn this top non-stop, I would have completed the top in maybe just a few minutes short of 2 hours, wonderful for a first time user of this pattern. 

*I also like the flattering fit and the pattern seems to be drafted well to cover my figure flaws. Variations in fabric drape and stretch would seem to affect how loose or snug the wearer prefers to wear the top.

Questionable Features
*Although the depth of the neckline is still modest, I still would raise it at least an inch".

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
* I performed my typical petite adjustments at the waistline. 

* I lengthened each sleeve 3"

* Decreased width of scarf collar 1/2"


Stay Tuned
I have plans to make more with the given sleeve variations. If you do not have this pattern now, I recommend purchasing it immediately.  This pattern seems to flatter all figure types.  I wish I had purchased this Jalie sooner!

A Colorful and Cheerful Easter

That Mod Girl Marlo Thomas looking chic in a red peacoat and her flip hairdo.

Marlo during the early and mid 1970's was creatively fun and free in a wide collar and zig zags . Zig zag trims seemed to go beyond decorating Easter eggsI I wonder how many odd stares she would receive if she strolled in this outfit today.

Flashback to 1977, the year there was an outbreak of Saturday Night Fever.  1977, however, was not all butterfly collars, platform shoes, bell-bottoms, and slinky disco dresses a la Studio 54.  I found this rare jewel from ebay and liked the sleeveless dress with a folded, cowl collar.   The description on the back of the envelop was  a "high waisted, back zippered dress has cowl collar, ties included in front darts. A, B has bib and sleeves gathered into buttoned cuffs."

I sewed view "C", the sleeveless version. This is the first project that I sewed for 2012.  Entering PR's vintage contest will hopefully return my sewing mojo.

Sizing:

Although a size 12, bust 34 is printed on my pattern envelope, all the pattern pieces were for a size 10, bust 34.

Heather and I enjoying the Sunday sunshine after Easter mass. 

 

Indoor pic

Instructions

They were clearly written and supplemented with helpful diagrams.

Fabric

Cotton rayon jersey from EOS.

Favorite Features
*Cowl neck style created from a "collar piece" that encircles the entire neckline. Just in the past year, I have noticed a vast selection of dresses with varying degrees of "cowl".

Ulla Popken dress for $59.99 at Amazon.com

 

Bar III Striped Dress from Macys.com for $59.99

Jones New York dress from Macys.com for $129.99

 

*The unique construction of the tie belt: Each tie is originally basted to the front at the location of a front dart. During the construction of each front dart, the "raw edge" of the tie end is "sandwiched" between the layers of the dart, and thus becomes "hidden" from view. The belt makes it possible to either wear the tie loop at the front or the back.

*Sleeve and dress length variations.

*The only thing I disliked was what seemed to be an inordinately large "collar" piece that is cut on the bias. On a cotton jersey that I was using, the collar "bunched" and draped. On a woven, I could easily imagine a rigid scarf type of a neckline, where the collar is turned to the inside along the lengthwise "half fold", until the edge meets the inner neck seam (where the collar was sewn to the notched edge of the collar, right sides together).

Pattern Alterations/Modifications
*Eliminated the back seam for zipper attachment.

*While cutting the back bodice, I pivoted the pattern piece about 10 mm, swinging the center back downwards to reduce the "extra fabric" just below the back of neck and at my upper back. After trial and error, I have had lots of success on several tops with this adjustment.

I found this helpful blog post, referenced by a number of fellow bloggers, detailing and differentiating adjustments for swayback,  adjustments for petites, and specific types of adjustments that get mistaken for being those for swayback.  The method I am referring to can be seen after scrolling the viewing window downward and looks similar to the "pivot" one that I am familiar with.
 

Sherry's "Pattern, Scissors, Cloth" blog
Many thanks to Sherry, the owner of this blog, for her post.

*I skipped my typical petite adjustment at the waist (3/4"-1") due to the "high-waisted" style of the dress. The bodice-skirt seam landed at the waist instead of just below my bustline (or an empire waist style), which I anticipated would have happened after a petite adjustment.

*Due to using a knit, I omitted the back zipper and sleeve facings. I turned in the raw edge of each armscye and topstitched a 5/8" hem.  If I used a woven, I would have lined the entire dress which would dodge the need to face the sleeve edges for a sleeveless dress.  The attached collar piece for the cowl neckline would have to be taken into consideration when lining the dress. 

*I sewed a center back seam, for the collar/cowl piece. I additionally took in the central seam to compensate for my "back pivot adjustment" that shortened the width of the neckline.

*I removed approximately 8" from the lower edge to shorten the dress to a smidgen below my kneecap.


Future Use/Recommendations
I plan to use this pattern again after finding the ideal fabric with it ("soft" fabrics such as challis, crepe de chine, etc). If you could find it, I recommend it. The "carefree" patterns in general seemed to produce stylish and enjoyable outfits with minimal challenges in construction. Although the pattern's recommended fabrics included challis, surah, synthetic crepe, and matte jersey, I did not encounter much problems with cotton rayon jersey.

This is the third pattern from the "Marlo's Corner" series and so far, I have had lots of luck in terms of style compatibility and fit. 

Wearing a crochet cardigan with bell sleeves.

Happy Easter and have a lovely spring!

Rolling in the Drape

Ideeli .com has those daily one-day sales strictly available to those who sign up as members (free). I find that many specials are about one-third of the retail price. I have not yet purchased from this website due to its no return policy on their sales.

After I clicked on a photo for the link via an e-mail and entered my member login information to allow me to view the items on sales, I could not help but notice the several attractive wrap dresses displayed. Yes, I admit that I adore wrap dresses, especially ones that flatter any figure.

Evan Picone "crossover waist" dress in jersey.

 Dresses that come to mind are:

McCall's 5974

and Vogue 1027, DKNY,  to name a few...

Another vision in red, I like the look of this "side knot" dress by Jones New York.

Vogue 1257, another DKNY wrap dress, also has a gathered side.

An Anne Klein, cocoa-colored side draped dress secured with a buckle.  I think a size "4" was the remaining size at the time I checked into the website.

Here is one of the newest Vogue patterns, a DKNY mock wrap dress that I purchased recently. There's something about it that emits to me an early 1990's vibe.  I wore dresses with similar styling during that time. This model even has an early 90's Andie McDowell 'do.

Fashion/sewing flashback:
My Vogue 8379 DVF-inspired wrap dress from nearly 4 years ago.  I still have it!
My dance/disco inspired review

On a musical "wrap-up", after winning 6 Grammy's, what's next for Adele Adkins?  One thing's for sure, I like that she brings back music reminiscent of Dusty S, Etta J, and more.

Music, videos, photos, more.
http://wn.com/Adele

Floral Choral

 Made in November 2011:

A Simplicity pattern:  Girls' coordinates: a short jacket, pants, and a sleeveless tunic or dress with a neckband, empire waist and attached tie belt. Sizes: girls' 8-16.   I made the tunic. I sewed a "10" for Heather.

Fabric Used:
A silk satin from a local little fabric store.  Once Heather saw the bolt of this vibrant fabric, she grabbed it! Sewing with this type of silk is not as easy as sewing with cottons. It is slippery to sew with and it unravels more easily.

Instructions
The diagrams were self-explanatory. The gathering lines are located at the front and back of the neckline and at the front empire waistline. The notches at the lower edge of the neckband and at the edges of the front and back neckline helped with the adjustment and placement of the gathered edges with respect to the neckband.


Favorite Features
*Heather likes the trendy style of the tunic/dress.

* I liked that the tunic/dress was easy to sew, especially that it does not require a zipper or buttons.

* A style that easily lends to use of contrasting or coordinating fabrics

* The armscye needs to be raised due to some gaping.


Pattern alterations /modifications
*Extended the lower hem 1" below the designated cutting line of the top/tunic.

* Instead of using "ready-made" or pre-packaged binding, I cut bias strips from the same fabric with 1" width and length about an inch shorter than the length of the armscye to be finished located below the neckband.

Upcoming

I plan to sew another one for Heather in a cotton


Just in front of the UCSD bookstore (University of California, San Diego at La Jolla, California), yesterday afternoon.

 

Thanks for visiting my blog.  Have a lovely day!

Lady Ga-Gathered

I made Heather's top and dress from an "It's So Easy" Simplicity pattern last summer. The dress fits Heather better now.

Girls' tops and pants in girls' size 7-14. I sewed a "7" and a "10" for the length.

I sewed view "B", the top with the elasticized lower edge. My daughter and I call this a "bubble" top.

Just for fun, a slight modification of a bit of the lyrics from  "Weird Al" Yankovic's parody of  "Born this Way" called "Perform This Way":  "...Save your allowance, buy a bubble dress, and someday you will SEW (go) far...


Fabric Used: 
Second version: Maggy London cotton knit.
First version:
For the bodice and shoulder straps: cotton knit that remained from a previous project.

For the skirt portion: poly lycra from fabric.com
Although I used a size smaller at the bodice and skirt than my daughter's usual size (8), I recommend using a woven as suggested on the back of the envelope. 

Elasticized hem tucked under for "bubble" effect.

Instructions: They were satisfactory with helpful diagrams. Although this is an "it's so easy" pattern, it is easy to make errors with certain steps (i.e. forgetting to gather the ends of the shoulder straps, placement of the self-facing on the front upper bodice and sewing it to the back bodice before turning it inside out).

"Pinned This Way"

Pinning front facing to bodice

Pinning the front to the back with front facing to create the side seams

Pinning the front facing over the front seam, before handstitching

Favorite Features
*I like the option to use contrasting fabrics for the bodice and skirt portions.

*I like the look of the gathers at the shoulders, the upper edges of the front and back skirt portions,  and lower hem (via an elasticized casing), but not necessarily making them.

* Elasticized back, so no zippers, yeah!

Not-so-favorite Features:
**The bodice, more noticeably at the back, is rather low and can be easily remedied by shortening the shoulder straps before placing them on the front and back bodice.

*The construction of the shoulder straps which are gathered at the front back edges and at the shoulders (a nice feature to minimize the straps from slipping), The edges are finished with a topstitched hem. I prefer to self-face each strap to avoid a topstitched hem from "peeping out" and to "hide" loose threads coming from the gatthers.


Alterations/Modifications:
*To hold the gathering at the shoulder strap between the dotted lines. I took the loose threads and tied the ends together in a little knot and snipped off the excess.

* Cut an additional 2 pieces for the facings of the shoulder straps. After gathering the facing and strap along the dotted line, I sewed the facing and the shoulder strap, right sides together, along the two lengthwise seams and turned the whole thing inside out at one of the openings.

Elasticized casing at the hem, revealed

*To be able to easily gather the upper edge of the front and back skirts, I adjusted the thread tension to a "0.5" since I was using a poly lycra. The front bodice piece is attached to the front skirt and the back bodice piece to the back skirt, aligned at the corresponding notches.

*I inadvertently forgot to gather the front and back edges. Heather pointed this out to me when she tried it on.

I plan to sew this top again (in a size 10) using a woven as recommended instead of a knit. I definitely recommend this pattern if you want to sew something comfortable and stylish (especially in a fabric of her choice) for a young lady that you know.

Holiday Wishes

We wish you a joyous, tranquil, and blessed Christmas/holiday season

and also one that is festive and bright,

 

"...And so I'm offering this simple phrase,
To kids from one to ninety-two,
Although it's been said many times, many ways,
Merry christmas
Merry christmas
Merry christmas to you"


From our sew-spicious minds to you, Merry Christmas and Season's Greetings to you!