Stripe Up the Bands and Welcoming 2013

Here is a Burda Style pattern I made a few months ago. My construction details are somewhat "cloudy".  I would describe it as a cowl top with long sleeves and side-ruching.  

I made this top three months ago and was not too thrilled about it that I left it literally and technically "unfinished" (at the sleeve and lower hems).  The type of fabric, fit, and my job with the neckline made me hide it in my "not certain" section of my wardrobe.  I found a "scrap" of this top's fabric in my sewing area which prompted me to "rediscover" this top and wear it today.


The pattern came in a ,isses' 34-36-38-40-42.  I traced and sewed a 38 at the shoulders and a 40 elsewhere.

The fabric I used seems like a sheer cotton/poly blend knit, purchased from EOS.

If I recall correctly, I did not experience too much difficulty with the directions and the overall construction.  The back of the neckline was questionably clear, and I used what I felt was the most convenient method at the time.

I sewed a strip of store-bought bias binding to the back edge of the neckline and turned it to the inside with the front facing.  For the side ruching, I stretched and stitched and  a 7" long of 1/4" wide elastic along the lower right side.

Likes/Dislikes
I like the modest depth of the cowl neckline and that there were only three main pattern pieces to work with, the front, back, and sleeve.

But less relevant to the pattern was I was not satisfied with my questionable results.  I was not impressed with my quality of sewing with this top.  But I will give myself an excuse that this was my first attempt with the pattern.


Alterations/Modifiations
I performed my typical 1" petite adjustment above the waist and narrowing of the upper center back (3/8" taken out from the upper center back, tapering to 0" just past the lower armscye.).

I did not "ruch" the sleeves and instead stitched a tiny hem at their ends. I might have shortened their lengths before stitching (my memory is hazy).

I did not hem the lower edge (which I usually do as a force of habit), which had a tendency to "curl" anyway (just like one the Burda Style model wore), and accept it as a "style feature".

Other Thoughts
I am not sure if I will sew another top from this pattern, however,  I still would recommend this pattern for Burda Style magazine "newbies" or as a simple gratification project.  It would be helpful to make a muslin or first-time version with "cheaper" fabric to get an idea how the top fits.   It also is an ideal pattern to showcase a distinctive print of a knit.

Thank you for visiting, have a happy new year and happy sewing!

 "Test driving" a 2013 Mazda convertible

Heather on a BMW scooter and her father nearby

Peace from the KIA Hamster and Heather at the San Diego Auto Car Show for 2013
 

Some Sewing, Sympathies, and Sunshine

I purchased this Burda pattern (#7742) last week after seeing it on the Burda fashion  website:

 

No description was provided on the pattern envelope. Here's my translation from the French website of Burda Style: "A form fitting top ideal for skirts and slacks. The top comes in a choice of long sleeves with gathered sleeve heads or sleeveless. The sleeveless has an option for back enclosures. For the neckline, you have a choice of a turtleneck or a round neckline..." The patterns calls for the use of 2-way stretch knits.

Pattern Sizing:
Misses' 36 38 40 42 44 46. I sewed a "40".

Something to be aware of are the 2" hem at the lower edge of the top and at the lower edge of the sleeves. After my typical petite adjustments and the 2" hem, I found the top still exorbitantly long, which did not work well with its form-fitting or body hugging style on me. I used a belt to interrupt the length or to add some aesthetic balance.

This is the first time that I tried a Burda "Young Fashion". I should have gone up a size from my typical Burda "40" to a "42" at the bust and sides for this pattern due to it being more fitted. I did not decrease to a "38" at the neck and shoulders as I usually do with standard Burda Style magazine patterns.


I used a foxes-print rayon jersey from emmaonesock.com

Pattern Directions

Although I did not use them after sewing a Burda Style turtleneck from the September 2012 issue, the directions of Burda patterns from the envelopes are usually better than the very brief or less explicit directions encountered in the Burda Style magazines.


Favorite and Not-So Favorite Features

I liked the simplicity of construction with only 4 pattern pieces: the front, back, sleeve, and turtleneck piece (rectangular). I also liked the depth of the turtleneck, neither constrictive nor low enough to qualify to be a "cowl". MNBarb's description in her review is much better: "It's somewhere between chokey and cowl." The neckline would seem simple to adjust to make it look more like a standard turtleneck.

The only thing that I least liked is the sizing does not seem to correlate with misses' Burda. Going up a size or two would have seemed to work better for me.

Modifications/Alterations:
*My typical 1" petite adjustment at the waistline.

*Due to a fabric deficit, I shortened the sleeves 5 1/2", which landed nearly an inch above my wrists. To give you an idea of the sleeve length, if I had used the original length of the sleeves and the 2" inch hem, I estimate that the resulting length would surpass my wrists by an inch.

*I sewed in the sleeve heads to armscyes flat (before stitching side seams) instead of "setting them in".

I plan sew this again due to its comfort, versatility of style, and its simple construction. I definitely recommend this pattern for the same reasons.

This pattern is a nice staple of any wardrobe. Maybe that is one reason why it has been around for several years.


More thoughts
My heartfelt sympathies and prayers to the departed children and adults, the survivors, and their families of Newtown, Connecticut. It hurts to think of what happened to our innocent brothers and sisters.  I hope and pray for peace, harmony, safety, and love in today's world. 

Yesterday, we watched our community of young dancers/performers participate in their dance company's yearly holiday recital.  The children again delighted us with a wonderful show.  Their presence not only lights up the stage, but all of our lives.  They represent not only our hope, but also the hope of families of Newtown and those all over the world for a promising future.

More T-Time: T Necks, Textual Reading, Technology, Trees, Thanksgiving

Some inspiration:

From the September 2012 issue of Burda Style magazine, a very simple turtleneck pattern:  

 My previous post with my original version:

http://sewspiciousmindful.blogspot.com/2012/09/mare-all-streeped-with-burda-styles.html

My second version in a viscose knit, also from EOS.  Here I am posing with some of my "plan-to-read" books that I purchased from the closing of a local Border's bookstore last year, and from another bookstore, one of Heather's all-time favorites, "The Lorax", which is so relevant today.   The rapid advancement of technology has, for instance, facilitated the access and submission of information, but stalled human sensitivity and personalization (i.e. writing letters from the heart).    Downloading books and music and sending information via e-mail "save the trees" which would make "The Lorax" happy.  However, advancing technology requires the consumption of more human and material energy and resources with increasing demand and supply, which would make "The Lorax" not happy.  Appreciating and understanding the "simple things" is getting lost in translation with each passing day.   I hope that our Barnes and Noble bookstores continue to stay in business for a long time.

Before cutting:

I re-used the pattern pieces that I traced from the magazine, along with my minor adjustments (making a petite adjustment at the waistline, narrowing the upper back, and lowering the neckline 1/2" tapering to 0" before attaching the cowl neck).  This top was drafted to be a more fitted style than the Simplicity 1716 I recently sewed.

It took me only 2 hours to sew the top. I am looking forward to an upcoming event to wear the dress.  I just found more material in my fabric stash to start my third version. In the meantime, Heather and I plan to bake some goodies to bring to my parents for Thanksgiving tomorrow. We have many things to be thankful for.  With the world in its current chaotic state,  I pray for peace, harmony, and recovery especially for our brothers and sisters who experienced much and pain and misfortune in their lives. The power of prayer and wishing well are very much needed at this time for our world to move forward.

I hope you have a safe and happy Thanksgiving and happy sewing. :-)

Simplicity 1617 On the 18th

I purchased this pattern last week at JoAnn's, reinforcing my addiction to another cowl front top/dress. What better way to jump-start my return to sewing.

Pattern Description:
"Misses; knit mini-dress, tunic and top, with front variations." I sewed view "F", the top with the cowl front.

 Sizes:  Misses' 4, 6, 8, 10, 12. I sewed a "10" at the shoulders and a "12" elsewhere.

 

The drape and the "extended" shoulders of the magenta top worn by the model remind me of Etro's $850 top from Saks Fifth Avenue:

 

Fabric Used:
A soft rayon/spandex knit, "Yigal Azr0uel tribal emblem montage knit" from emmaonesock.com.


Instructions
They were easy to follow.  I am singing a song of praise to Simplicity for the diagrams! I did not experience any challenges with reinforcing the shoulders (I sewed a piece of bias tape at the back shoulder seam), making the two pairs of pleats at the shoulders, adding and positioning the back facing with regards to the front facing at the neckline, or the overall construction of the top. 

 

Favorite and Not-So-Favorite Features
I like this top mostly due to the cowl which drapes at a proper depth, while still exuding style. The drape of my cowl neck more closely resembles that of the model wearing the magenta top than the illustration which drapes downward.  My shoulders like hers also tend to "slide back". The sleeves were not as "fitted" as they appeared on the model, which I would have preferred, but then I appreciate the comfort of them being slightly loose or their relaxed fit. The rectangular back facing, with its negative ease, is simple and convenient (for non-owners of sergers) to use thus reducing the tendency for "gaposis" below the neck. Although I like the shoulder pleats, I plan to adjust them to narrow the shoulder width. I do agree with previous reviewers of this pattern that the length of the top might be a propos for the taller ladies whereas petite ladies such as myself would need to perform our usual petite adjustments at the waistline. 


Pattern Modifications
*Took in the center seam at the upper back in 3/8"

*Shortened the top 1" at the petite adjustment line at the front and back

*Skipped the elasticized ruching at the sides to opt for a tunic style.

*For a tunic look, I added 1 1/4" at the lower edge before hemming. My braided belt that I purchased at Kohl's two weeks ago seems to coordinate nicely with the fabric and style.

*For bell-style inspired sleeves I lengthened each sleeve 1".


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes! I recently added this pattern to my list of "reliable" patterns. I definitely recommend this pattern for its style and simplicity in construction. It is one of those "sew-in-the-morning-and-wear-in-the-afternoon" type of projects!


Conclusion
The cowl or draped front trend is here to stay...

A 10-11-12 Greeting From Us to You

Wishing my fellow sewists and bloggers a good 10-11-12 day. I just noticed the consecutive numbers today. If it is your birthday or another special day/event, I hope it is a wonderful one.

Also, I just discovered that 10-11-12 is officially the first "Day of the Girl".  But everyday to us is a day of the girl. I am grateful for the liberties we have. In  other countries, ladies are treated as inferior to men.

 From the Day of the Girl website,

"The Day of the Girl is about highlighting, celebrating, discussing, and advancing girls lives and opportunities across the globe." 

This also applies to us "more mature" girls as well.

My daughter Heather and I standing here, minutes after a Beatles theatrical performance, just before the Beatles cover band met fans at the autograph table.  Heather wore a pink satiny dress and I wore a dress that I sewed from a 1967's McCall pattern.

More fab fun and fashion in my retro blog:
http://groovy60ssewing.blogspot.com/2012/10/abbey-rhodes-pinky-lane-and-fine-fab.html

11-12-13 is waiting in the wings...

Mare-all Streeped with Burda Style's Turtleneck Dress

The September 2012 issue really impressed me.  I wish I had the time to trace and sew the styles I like.  With many non-Burda patterns in my stash waiting to be sewn, I selected what seemed to be 2 of the simplest patterns, very suitable for beginners and the first-time Burda user.  Obviously, these two patterns will not "improve" my current sewing level.  At least they will quickly add more basic and practical pieces to my current wardrobe.

I sewed pattern 104 B (longer version), knit turtleneck top with long sleeves.

Trend alert: turtleneck dresses and dresses with horse print.  

ABS Turtleneck dress from Saks Fifth Avenue $188

Sizes: Burda misses' 36, 38, 40, 42, 44.  I sewed a 38 at the shoulders and a 40 elsewhere.

Fabric used: rayon jersey with horse print

Another trend alert: A shirt dress with horse print by ASOS

Although I am not a fan of the Kardashians, here's Kourtney looking fashionable in the ASOS shirt dress and a pair of animal print pumps:

Now, returning to the topic of Burda Style's turtlenecks:

 

Favorite features of Burda Style pattern 104, turtleneck tops:
I cannot complain but rave about this pattern for being very easy to sew,  having a timeless style paired with a skirt and/or slacks, and being an ideal under layer piece.  The depth of the neckline is fine and the collar is not constricting.  I was not surprised at the top being form-fitting and curvature revealing.   With just a few more inches, the longer version can easily be transformed into a turtleneck dress, which would look wonderful with boots for the autumn and winter season.  I traced and cut the "longer" version, so that I can later cut and hem to my desired length.  But that plan changed after I figured out what to do with the remnants, instead of leaving them in a some bag for in indeterminate amount of time that I call "future projects with scraps of fabric in a bag".


Directions:
They are typical Burda Style: brief, right to the point, with possibly a few sentences that can be rewritten for a better understanding (maybe due to translation to English) such as "stitch narrow collar edges together (centre back seam)" to "stitch, right sides together, the center back seam (of the rectangular piece for the collar) along the lengthwise grain".   If you have sewn basic tops with a front, back, and sleeves, and especially turtleneck tops, you can rely on your experience and skill to sew the top.  One module I heed is the "cutting out" module specifying the  pattern pieces and the amount of each to be cut.  The collar is cut from a rectangular piece with lengths and widths that correspond to the sizes 36-44.

Modifications:
I performed my typical 1" petite adjustment above the waist  and narrowing of the upper center back  (3/8" taken out from the upper center back, tapering to 0" just past the lower armscye.).

I shortened the sleeves 1" from the bottom so that they land above my wrists.

The remnant of fabric in the form of a nearly perfect rectangle with width a little over one foot appeared "tempted" to be transformed into something other than a tie belt.  Maybe I was having a fashion flashback from 1980's: I decided to transform the longer version of the top into a dress with a banded bottom, while envisioning its horse print running perpendicular to the horizontal horse print of the top/dress, for a special geometric effect.  What "creative" way to evade top-stitching the lower hem by substituting it with some "spur-of-the-moment design feature". To create the banded "tube", I stitched the center back seam, right sides together, of a rectangular piece whose circumference ended up being 1 1/4" shorter than that of the lower edge of the top, folded the band in half, and sewed it (while stretching a little) to the lower edge of the top.

The Necks Time
I was pleasantly surprised to discover how flattering and fuss-free this turtleneck top is!    I plan to sew more with variations in sleeve and neckline types.  If you have this issue, give this pattern a try. It can easily be one of those "sew-in-the-morning-wear-it-in-the-afternoon" projects.

Next on the sewing queue,  top #130 (muslin version already done):

Belated Birthday/Burd-day Bash

On my (3 x 10) + (1x10) + (6 x 1)-th birthday, my husband, my daughter, and I had a quiet dinner at a Mexican/Thai fusion "bistro".  My daughter's expression reveals how challenging it is for her to finish (chicken spicy noodles) what was on her plate.   I ate only a half of my "Pad Thai Tofu" burrito.  Two "take home" containers were used that evening.

I just received the following photos (except for the Burda Style diagrams, the black and white one, and the outdoor one) via email from my sister-in-law. They were taken a week ago at my parents' home.  They threw me a little but big-hearted belated birthday bash three days after my birthday (9/13).

 

This is the technically the first time I wore this dress that I sewed nearly two months ago (from pattern #119 found in Burda Style, June 2012). My previous post contains my review of this pattern.   I am still hesitant about the late 1980's/early 1990's style. Much to my surprise, my sister-in-law truly liked the dress.  She prefers trendy and youthful looking clothes (she is in her early 30's).

Going through my "flickr favorites', I discovered this photo with similar looking shoulders. I am not sure they have gussets.




Heather and my sister-in-law strategically placed 6 candles and 4 candles (representing the 10's) on a tiramisu cake.

I hid (via photo crop) my embarrassing expression of frustration while blowing the lit candles again after they repeatedly "came back to life".  Heather giggled during the entire episode.

Nearly ready to cut the delectable tiramisu cake. I felt as if I gained back the 8 lbs I lost after eating one slice.

Have a tree-rific day!

Teal-er Dealer

I sewed this dress about a month and a half ago.  The simplicity and elegance as it appeared on the June 2012 issue of Burda Style (pattern #119) captured my attention.  But I wished the Burda Style photographers could photograph the front and back views of this dress on the model.  The side view does not adequately reveal the slight "poof" of the sleeves and shoulders.

She reminds me of Taylor Swift.  Maybe it  is her hair...

Burda Style description:
Aphrodite Dress 119
"Love at first sight-in both the blithe beauty and her sheath dress. A second glance at the dress reveals subtle details, such as the square neckline and slight gathering at the on the hem edges of the sleeves."

Size
Burda misses' 38-46.  I sewed a "38" at the shoulders and a "40" elsewhere.

Recommended Fabrics:
Stretch lace, knits, fine jersey

Fabric I Used:
ITY knit jersey, which I also used for a Butterick 5645 knit cowl top that I posted in July.  I made this dress before the top.   

Schematic

 "Wheel-er Teal-er"

Features
* The shoulder gussets are not easily viewable on the schematic, which are the little triangles which bridge the front and back necklines.  They create the "square-ish" or boxlike appearance of the shoulders, reminiscent of dresses from the late 1980's-early 1990's.

*I like the slight "puff" at the tops of the sleeves and their elasticized hems.

*Easy to make, except for manipulating the gussets at the shoulder.  The directions mention aligning the gussets "seam marks 1 and 2" that correspond to the points on the front neckline and back neckline, respectively.  Just like at the edges of the neckline, I ironed little strips of interfacing to the edges of the gussets before pressing inwards the seam allowances.  With knits, I found it tricky to sew/topstitch those triangles at the pivot points, while making sure that even an iota of fabric does not "slip" out of place.

*The neckline was more of a bateau/boat style that reached the base of my neck, is not the most flattering on me.

*The dress was really a loose sack (reminding me of a nice, comfy beach cover-up), which prompted me to cinch the waist with a belt.


Here is a comfy, sack-like dress from Jasper Conran's Spring/Summer 2013 collection (we are just barely into the fall season!).  My dress seems to be a few inches roomier than Jasper's.

Modifications
* I performed my typical petite adjustment at the waist (shorten 3/4"), my narrow back adjustment (remove 3/8" from the center back seam at the upper back).

*I shortened the dress a few inches.


Encountering the summer wind below the shade from a tree.



If you have this issue and if you are looking for something that is overall simple to trace and sew,  I recommend giving this pattern a try.  Be prepared for extra ease and the the sack-like characteristic of the dress, which can be remedied with a belt. 

Mc-Call Me May Be Until September

McCall's 6112 became a surprise hit for me, but not as big a hit as Carly Jepsen's single "Call Me Maybe" that ruled the pop charts and the You-Tube scene with countless videos of lip-synching fans.
 I just discovered that this pattern is already out of print:

McCall's 6112 at the McCall's website

I was inspired to purchase this pattern by the very nice results obtained reviewers of this pattern at Pattern Review.  But I did not sew it immediately because I was not sure whether or not the kimono-style sleeves with the elasticized waistline will suit me.  As I was looking for a simple, on-trend  knit dress for summer similar, I decided to give this pattern a chance.  I made the dress with the split sleeves (view B) nearly a month and a half ago and with each passing day, the details become more sketchy. What I recall well was that this dress is very simple to make with its four pieces (front/back of bodice and front/back of skirt) and the drape of the fabric and fabric of the fabric sets the tone or the character of the dress. ITY fabric has not given me consistent results in terms of stitch quality and stability of the hems. To make the hems and neckline reliably stable prior to topstitching, I iron pressed strips of interfacing to their edges.

Wearing my McCall's 6112 officially for the first time:  at Balboa Park, The Plaza de Panama Fountain near the San Diego Natural Museum (pictured on the right). The fabric is an ITY knit from fabric.com.

Pattern Description: "MISSES' DRESSES IN TWO LENGTHS AND CAMISOLE: Dresses A, B, C have bodice variations and straight skirt with elastic casing; dress A has front cowl; dress B has short kimono sleeves with slit and purchased nailheads or studs; dress C has short kimono sleeves and front pockets; dresses A, B lengths are approximately 4" above mid-knee; dress C length is approximately 1" above mid-knee; camisole D has stitched hems; purchased belt."

Pattern Sizing: Misses' 4-6-8-10-12. I sewed a "12" except a "10" at the shoulders. Expect extra ease due to the relaxed style of this dress.

If you have sewn dresses especially those that have what I call "inner elasticized topstitched casing", then you will find this a quick gratification project.

Favorite/Not-so Favorite Features
 It's simple to make, comfortable, on-trend with the "cold-shoulder" detail, and versatile for infinite style options. While raising my arms above shoulder level it could be somewhat revealing due to the low side seams and a wearing a camisole would solve this issue. Otherwise, the flowing kimono nearly elbow length sleeves do a decent job of hiding the sides. On me, the elasticized waistline coupled with the fabric has a slight tendency to "ride up" a little at the waist. Hence the skirt hem becomes somewhat asymmetrical. Although I used a 1/2" instead of the pattern's recommended 3/4" elastic, a narrower elastic as used by some reviewers of this pattern would have seemed to taken care of the issue. Occasionally I would make a quick tug here and there to compensate for the elastic's movement, which does not bother me too much.

 

Alterations I don't recall making adjustments to bodice. I may have shortened the skirt an inch shorter than intended.

Recommendations
I still recommend this pattern. If you like simple chic, then this dress fits the bill.

My nine-year old photographer also by the fountain with a better view of the S.D. Natural Museum. She is wearing a Simplicity 3515 Hannah Montana top I sewed for her last year, which fits better now.

  

After visiting "Titanic: The Artifact Exhibition" at the museum, Heather took a photo opportunity with a "beary good" captain of the ship.


Happy Sewing!